Of course we prefer to see everything, it makes us feel better when we’re out in the shop doing something that takes 4 hours, and everybody on RU-vid is showing it in 12 minutes. People lose perspective. Great work as always!
Reading your OD mic while it is in contact with the part shows your professionalism. That is exactly how I was taught by my mentor and has served me well.
Been looking forwards to you getting back into the JFMT lathe Max. Very informative. Please don’t be tempted to edit out the real time live feed components because that’s what we can all learn from. Sure you can edit it to make yourself look perfect on RU-vid - but then we don’t get to learn how to overcome the invariable challenges along the way. Everyone makes errors - it’s how you overcome them that sets you apart. 👍👍👍🇦🇺 Gonna be a bloody hot one today at 41c Stay cool & hydrated.
I will concur with these posts that I am reading; your true to application videos are an asset, in a field of ever pandering to the process of integrating hollywood into shop procedures. It doesn't seem to pay, but it will, someday, somehow; you lead with example and that is worth its weight in all the good things. Growing trees for future generations, you are. Awesome job, Max.
Great video Max. Keep making them the way you're doing them. I learn much more watching the blow by blow process (and no irritating music and other cutesy things). I discovered your channel a couple of months ago and have watched all your videos. I admired your dedication in building your new shop. I can't imagine working on a project that took years to complete. Congrats and cheers!
The handle does the same on my Chinese lathe and I never even thought about just moving the tool in the holder , that is why I watch , I always learn something , Thanks Max !
Noga’s are the bomb! Regret the cost once, Enjoy the functionality Every time. There are no DRO’s on the lathes at work, One Noga with a plunger to accurately set cross feed makes it so easy to be confident of the result. One Noga with a finger to do set ups with ease.
@@swanvalleymachineshop Personally, one turret mill and two lathes have DRO's and I trust them. Totally. The lathes have Tool 1, to tool 20 offsets. The mill DRO does PCD's amongst other useful stuff. But what they do well is tell how much whatever moved! i don"t even look at the dials anymore...
hi Max Thanks for the tip on the inverted parting tool I have the same small import lathe as you parting has never felt smooth but with the tool inverted a revelation i have started parting with power feed which I never dared previously thanks again Gary UK
Hi Max, I generally take the springs out of lip seals, stops the leakage fine if not under high pressure, and they last a lot longer with less wear on the shaft.
G'day Max. Another great tutorial video sizing a new bush. I'm glad you took the long process of showing how sometimes it's a slow process to get the correct tolerances when doing inner & outside sizes at the same time without crushing or distorting the job. The fruit is in the pudding especially when the bushing went straight into it's new home, fitted with a correct size mandrel & leaving a very nice none hammered end of the bush. Well done Max keep the Goodies coming.
clean the shaft good and put baking soda with super glue in the grooves and emery cloth them down smooth and then use the smaller seals that way if their close they wont try to run into the old grooves
some buddies had bad worn seal groves on a racecar axle and they did this so it would not leak i know it lasted the rest of that race season but i dont know if it lasted until now but i think if you did it and moved the sealing surface a little bit i feel it would last a very long long time@@swanvalleymachineshop
Hi Max, Bronze getting expensive. DS&G got it right, no flimsy lead screw. Mine had reversible lead screw, could reverse it and use unworn area close to chuck. Your in for a hot day, stay cool.
Even on my "baby" DSG 1307 by 40 the leadscrew is 1 3/8" dia by 4tpi (well mine is metric so 35mm by 6mm pitch) and it has a support pad to run on in the middle. When you operate a machine of its class it really shows up where the run of the mill machines saved money on the build. Not saying the DSG is perfect but they made great lathes.
The only criticism I have on 13x42 DSG, circa 1954 is that the cross slide is very short to accommodate the power drilling attachment when attached to the dovetails. Miss that lathe, working on my 2 Chinese lathes is certainly less enjoyable.
@@willemvantsant5105 That was an issue on my 1957 13x42 as well. They fixed that with the 1307 series, cross slide is full length and the drilling bracket clamps to it on its own set of dovetails. Compound slide could be longer though.
G'day from Fort Smith, AR, USA Appreciate youshowing the whole thing, as so many other people condense hours of work into a few minutes of video And that's a few hours for a journeyman - which is far, far longer for the average home gamer who is going to watch this channel BTW, If you get tired of the heat, swing on out this way for a visit: The temperature displayed on the reader board on a business here in town was 1° - Fahrenheit (that's -17° Australian) Think you could box up some of that summer and ship it over here?
7 pm and full of daylight. Miserable seeing your nice summer there while I'm here stuck in sub zero temps with wind chill and daylight from 7 am to 4 pm. BAH! 🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶
@@swanvalleymachineshop Ah yes. My zero temp is in fahrenheit which is -17.7778 in Celsius. We are supposed to get to minus 13 degrees which is -25 Celsius. I have the heat going round the clock in the machine shop so nothing freezes in there. Killing me with the utilities bill.
Hi Max! I have a very similar import lathe and I've noticed the exact same problem with the unbalanced cross slide wheel moving off my setting while making a cut. I've been unscrewing the handle from the wheel when taking my finishing cuts for just that reason. There's a locking screw on the side of the cross slide that puts pressure on the gib but the manufacturer mounted the DRO scale right over it so I can't use that.
Around 3 minutes would an SKF Speedi Sleeve work for the oil sealing surface? Every size I've ever thought to use has been available and they've added a 0.010" wall thickness.
For spray build-up, is there another for cutting a screw thread in particular? I ask because I saw a part ground (with a dodgy DIY toolpost grinder) to a lousy finish, and that made me wonder if that would make a suitably rough surface for building up a part that is too hard to machine.
It would make it rough enough . Sandblasting works as well . My concerns would be anything left embedded by the grinding particles , but i have people i know that spray weld all the time i can ask about that . Cheers 👍
