Machining and Threading a Faceplate...Mistakes Were Made! 

When cutting blind threads like that it's much easier to reverse your tool (or mount it upside down if you must) and turn the part backwards. That way you can start on the inside, advance your tool gently (which cuts its relief as it's going), and pull it outwards when you engage the half-nut. The chief advantage here is that you don't need to be as quick in disengaging the half-nut as there's nothing to crash into once your tool is out of the part.

Flip your tool, run it in reverse and thread from the inside out…no more crashing.

Great when ya show what goes right and what is a learning curve too lol..

The way he explains things makes me feel like I'm standing there with him and he's teaching me how to change gears and cut threads

I always wondered about setting the gears on a lathe to do threading. This was very informative, thanks!

When you use a lathe to build another lathe and still when a time traveling cyborg from the future arrives to tell about self replicating robots and you don't believe him.

Great overview of making a face place. Your description and camera positions were spot on. You are a master teacher giving easily understood information.Thanks.

You're exactly how a skilled engineer should be

I believe you are running the lathe way too fast most of the time. 600 rpm at that diameter is quite a fair piece out of the surface speed range even for carbide on mild steel. Next time try slowing down and see if I'm right.....Dave

You have answered so many lathe questions that I have had for years! Thanks you. I also love this channel because the comments are an education in itself. Keep up the good work!!

When you change gears on the lathe put a piece of paper between them and set them tight. The paper will come out when the gears turn and you're left with adequate clearance. Or just do it your way, I find it a bit faster and less frustrating.

It is always the last cut when things fail.

Shouldn't you cut the threads, then attach to the lathe, then surface. Otherwise, you may have the face not planar to the axis.

Thank you for the explanation on the lathe. Although I can't think in imperial measurements, I do get the gist of what's going on. Most makers only talk about the gearbox settings, but this was the first time I learned that the gears can be changed. For the question you asked: If you're going to fix the plate permanently I'd say affix the (bought) cast iron plate, so that if for any reason your steel plate doesn't work you can always buy or make a new one.

"everything gets hotter when your tool gets dull." That's not what she said!

The reason you crashed the lathe is because your compound was advancing closer to the backplate with each successive cut while your zero on the carriage remained the same. Its the same threading up to a shoulder on a external thread. Your stopping point gets closer with each cut so you have to dial back your stop with each cut. I thread large diameter course threads everyday and the point I made above becomes clear with courser threads. Try it on a test piece with no thread relief so you can see how the threading tool advances.

I think you need to rust treat that now or you'll regret that later. ;)

As a wannabe DIY/home machinist I liked your cross slide dial indicator trick to determine when you you reached thread depth. Thanks for the well narrated videos I know they take more time to do and edit.

40+ years as a machinist. It's always a little tricky threading into a blind hole. There have been plenty of replies below in that regard so I won't yammer on with tips. But I must say, a lathe with a foot brake is awesome for this.

It prob wouldn't disengage because you were just a lil bit late and the half nut was already in a bind on the leadscrew. Don't ask me how I know this..... Just another reason to use Joe Pie's reverse threading method.

A couple is things. First, thank you. I always enjoy what you share with us. Next, I love the Google closed captions while machining :music, applause! Next, as much as I love all of this, I really miss the canon! Thank you again.

Ahhh yeah the joy of making something you COULD buy, but you rather spend 200$ of material (of course only old offcuts you had since 2005 so it does not count) and two days of work doing it yourself because the shipping is 14$... still nice video man, keep em comeing!

thanks for explaining the gearing , very helpful !

no More out of balance than the log or wold to be trend. if that , i Like it ,well bon son .

"I don't feel like waiting, so I'm just gonna make my own." ---Not Enough People

THIS is why one uses the backwards downcut way of single point thread cutting!!!!!

Just a question, are you boring then dragging the tool back out, its real easy to move your tool off the part, via using your dial, just saying….. then dialing back to where it was then moving in .010, or .020, before measuring take a free pass to remove any tool deflection, then measure, that way no surprises…..

I sharpened chainsaw chains by hand for years with terrible results as a whole... eventually the saw would start cutting an arc as you mentioned... the reason was my sharpening ! obviously I would get done with one side and then do the other side but by then my hands were tired and I never took the teeth down as far as I should.... at this I was very consistent ! to my chagrin ! I knew what the problem was but with a 36" bar that is alot of teeth to file ! finally I bought a Harbor freight chain saw sharpener.... I started with my oldest chains I had about 8 old chains ! and after figuring out the sharpener I finally got it wo work flawlessly even my worn out chains cut like a dream . we had a ranch fire and so I lost my chainsaw sharpener years past and I finally got another one.... this was plastic and I didn't hold much hope for it.... but with care you can make them work too... the problem with hand filing is your consistency and keeping the file straight flat and at the angle needed even in your demonstration you can see the inconsistency in doing it by hand. will it work ? of course! but a chainsaw chain sharpener is far better....at least for me ! I still have several saws but rarely use them as I now live on 1 acre in the city there's not much wood to cut here ! I would recommend a chainsaw chain sharpener any day...even a cheap one is better than doing it by hand ....for me at least.... however they do ware down the chains much faster but in recent years I have learned to be less aggressive in sharpening the chains as I can take the tiniest bit off each tooth if I want .....it's all in the setup ! and my saws now all cut super good.... the chain is the key to good saw working... even on old antique saws !

I know this was a while ago and the project is done. BUT After many many years in the machine tool trades, I can tell you two things. One, you didn't need to support it with the tailstock. Two, carbide is often not your friend. when cutting against a surface with a high potential for deflection High speed steel is usually the better choice. You can sharpen it much better to a finer edge which will produce substantially less deflection. Carbide cuts subsequent to enormous pressures, which lead to deflection.

The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info

Hi my name is Kevin from Aus I been watching you make a face plate and having a big stress attack as a mechanical engineer of 55 years I could not believe wat you were doing my computer was coping it , you made every thing backwoods hold your face plate in chuck screw cut from back your thread will be true with the face of the plate I will go be other my computer have a melt down Kevin Schlipalius Deakin Engineering.

Cast iron is used for face plates to avoid thread galling. Nice work, though!

Im now a thread master, bow to me! now just need to learn everything else

I did learn something. Something signicicant. I was thinking of getting myself a metal lathe but realised that there is not a great deal that I really want. So . . it would be far easier not to get one and farm out the job/s. It would have been mainly for masturbatory value only. Thanks for an interesting and informative vid.

Why don't you reverse the Chuck jaws and turn the piece around THEN cut the threads in the one inch.

That angle will make it wrong by shifting your start point and causing a crash of your single point it small but I was surprised you didn’t snap off the cutting tool but not surprised that you could not disengage the half nut it was pulling on the garage

19:15 A very healthy reaction.

only one thing comes to mind ... cast iron is not a springy material which is why it is used for machine tools where as steel is bouncy ... steel rings like a bell but cast iron is duller sounding ... the vibration in machine parts contributes to chatter while cutting ... other than that the home made one is defiantly stronger as you said ... this issue is probably not as critical for cutting wood

Great video thank you for posting, really good explanation.

When welding the wand is suppose to go back and forth. Not in a circle. yes. O no

is the new face plate out of round? it looked like it was wobbling on your last video. it also looked like it went out of round when the carriage hit the face plate. it looked like the face plate was no longer perpendicular to the axis

The larger one you made is what I’d choose.Good work

I’d pay $35 to avoid doing that. 🙂

You actually can test the threads on a part like that by just taking the chuck off the lathe with the part still in the chuck as long as it goes back on the spindle in the same orientation and of course as long as you don't crash the machine 😜

Tldr you got reduciulously lucky after getting reduciulously unlucky

looks like you can use a harmonic balance.

When dealing with rust, don't take light cuts - take a heavy cut and get below the rust. The inserts you're using have a positive rake, the cutting edge is up and into the material, light cuts on oxide essentially grinds it off.

Can you work the opposite way when thread cutting, so there is no chance of crashing into the chuck?

Why don't you get a thread gauge? It will tell you if the thread is correct for what you want to cut.

It is better to make a deep cut on rusty faces to lesson the impact on tooling. Cut behind the rust not through it.

Dude, you seriously need a better threading bar!

are you related to dozer dave on gold rush ?you look and talk just like him

Dial indicate the new plate it is out of wack when you hit it ... true it up!

Given that the majority of the surface area of the original plate is as cast, your new one has to be better balanced. I have a couple of chucks for my lathe that I've never used because I'm too chicken to try to thread backing plates for them. I would LOVE to mount a threading tool upside down and run it in reverse, but my spindle isn't a locking design and trying to thread in reverse would just unscrew the chuck 😞

Much easer in my. Metric. Pour you Americans.

Always clean your leadscrew first.

no offense intended but why is your threading dial so twitchy? on mine and other grizzlys its always so smooth? also on my grizzly the halfnut tends to stick under heavy cuts. made me crash a couple times. i think its the brass halfnuts dig into the steel threads.

"Yeah, I could do it better, but I'm too lazy." ---Not Enough People "Perfection is the enemy of the good enough." ---A Lot of Smart People

Yup, you were playing with fire by running the tool post so close to the work. Zero room for error, as you found out. Couple things. Most lathes- For even threads start the thread dial on any line. Odd threads engage on any numbered line. When turning on a rusty part you have to take a heavy cut to get past the iron oxide, or grind it off first. The crossfeed angle for threadcutting involves triginometry- yuk. In general- Compound feed = .75 / thread pitch . So in your 8TPI the crossfeed would be fed a total of ~ .09375 That's with the compound set at 29.5. Thanks for the video.

That was impressive but I think I am going to spend the 30 bucks for another plate. Thanks for sharing your craftsmanship.

Woah. Pretty trippy @ ~7:25. 🤣🤣🤣

And people think they'll never use high school trigonometry in their daily lives.

What a great ride-a-long…… Thanks for taking us along. 👍👍😎👍👍. Amazing how even ‘disappointing’ DIY results turn out much better than the commercial offering. 😜

You make interesting videos.

you're a good teacher, and a jack of many trades, wow how fulfilling that must be, I'm really enjoying your videos, thanks and keep it going!

I need to make a backing plate for my new to me Cushman 8' chuck for my Atlas 12' so this was helpful, Thanks.

Being that I have no experience with laths, since my family has never owned one, I wasn't aware that they could be used to cut a thread. I've re-cut threads, using a tap and die set with a vise, on about two dozen carriage bolts for four wheelbarrow restorations. Well 3 completed ones, still working on getting rid of the rust and patching one hole the barrow the fourth one. Thanks to my dad leaving me the tap and die set, I was able to salvage all the original carriage bolts except the ones that broke, or had to be cut off, or were missing. Fantastic information on the workings of laths. Thanks for sharing.

Hey you forgot the most important face to face off. the site that fits against de spindlenose gives you the correct balance and minimal runout. you relay on the threat now. It is still blue from welding. goodluck

The mass will almost certainly overcome any torque caused by wobble. At least from what I can see this video. Awesome. 👍👍👍

heavier a machine part is, better it is, weight is a good way to absorb the vibrations by hysterisis. weight for weight, cast iron has better damping characteristics than steel, it is the main reason why machine tool castings are almost exclusively made from cast iron.

Good sir, would you happen to have any opinion on the Grizzly model G0769 Lathe? I’m getting my first big boy tool and don’t want buyer’s remorse.

It Was Clear As Mud, But it Covered the Ground, Confusion Made Me Head Go ‘Round

Very enlightening. Thanks for sharing what went wrong as well as what went right! I napped through all the threading math. Is that bad? At least it explains why I do electricity and not machining. ;) Which one will be better? I think that larger pieces will work better on the new one, but smaller pieces may actually benefit from the original.

Given some of the huge projects you’ve tried to destroy your wood lathe with, it should make it all the more entertaining when it finally tries to kill you if it has the heavier faceplate on it! PS. Love the content👍

great video! you explained it very well!!! thanks John!

If you machine up an exact duplicate of the spindle nose on your wood lathe, you can use it to test fit your part while still in the lathe, and fully synchronized for thread cutting. This saves a lot of time, and frustration in making spindle adapters in the future. The easier it is to make a spindle adapter, the more times you will want to use it, and make more specialized faceplates

Just as good as yur John son

the crashed one is better :D

How much does a metal lathe like that cost i wonder? I can think of so many projects id love to do with something like that

Excellent explanation thank you. Seems more like tool malfunction than a mistake

Very methodical, very clear - thank you - UK

👍👍👍

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@16:40 you're actually going 32 RPI

OMG! So glad you didnt get hurt too badly when that happened!

Hi uncle john!

Turn something with both, if yours is better, then save it.

Great video 😊

Very interesting

I always wondered how the second cut matched the first and so on.

Make two!

Thanks for the lesson, I needed that because I have the same lathe.

Thank you.

7:40 how do you start boring when you already are? Hehe 😋

I love how u just find a steel plate in the woods

😆 no beuno!

You could have gone overkill on the weld, and bore a hole through the plate the same diameter as the axle. Heat up the plate and put the axle inside before it cools. Then you could weld both front and back. But I know nothing about lathes, or welding. I'm also thinking it may be a bad idea to make something 'disposable' tougher than the machine.

The old one has a flywheel edge (is that what it's called?) The extra weight concentrated around the outside edge. Does that make much difference for balance?

This is what RU-vid should be used for

Very cool. Much respect. 👍