Machining parts longer than your machine - CNCnutz Episode 63 

I know this video is almost a year old, and I'm a little late to the party,but I wanted to say thank you very much for posting it. I learned more watching this 12 minute video than I have in watching several others. I really like your presentation style. Using the screen-in-screen method to demonstrate exactly how you created the file, tiled it, saved it, then relocated your workpiece after cutting tile 1 really drove it home for me. Lots of presenters assume that their audience already knows about half of what they're demonstrating. Your style gets the info across without being condescending, nor making assumptions. Thank you very much for that.

Nice simple demonstration of tiling to overcome bed length vs object dimension.

The best cnc instruction on RU-vid . Thanks for taking the time to put your channel y

I was sure this was a simple concept... just needed someone to show me just how simple it was. Thank you!

Thanks for taking the time to make these great videos... always easy to understand and very informative.

Nice presentation. The only caution I would add is that by using a "guide" to maintain a constant X reference, you are relying on the edge of your material (not the guide) to be perfectly square the entire length of all the tiles. Any slight variation in the material is going to offset all the cuts between tiles by that amount. In a table leg cut out, it might be possible to sand out the "jog" that will appear at the edge of each tile. But on a carving, the jog will appear on every vector that crosses between tiles. Insuring that kind of 'squareness' is pretty hard to do even using a table saw with a cut that long and where you are relying on a high degree of accuracies on a complex CNC carvings across tiles. You can drill two "x" and "y" guide holes anywhere in the material and the spoil board as long as the "Y" is the same tile "Y" distance from the original origin. Then you are not relying on a perfectly square edge along the entire length of the material you are cutting. The dowels insure very high accuracy across all the tiles.

Did my first tiled carve tonight and your indexing method worked great. Every other video shows you how to use the software, but yours was the only one with the practical information on how to actually run the carve. Thanks.

Always the best cnc videos. Its one thing to read about a process, another to watch it being performed with clear, concise explanation. Thanks

Thanks Peter!! Another outstanding video!!! Keep em coming buddy!

I've watched a number of videos, this is by far the easiest to understand, thank you !

Thank You Peter for the very comprehensive video.

A newbie here that was struggling on what size of a machine to buy. This proved to be the answer to my problem.

Excellent video, Peter. I like the way you slowly explain what you're doing. Most videos are done at normal talking speed, and if it's a subject that's brand new to people, they can't keep up usually. Thanks.

If your stock does not have a straight side and you don't mind drilling into your spoilboard you can use two reference holes in the part and matching ones in the spoil board, then insert dowel pins before clamping.

Thanks, Peter for the clear instruction on the how and why. I’ll be using this on my router for my long langstroth beehives. Cheers.

that was one thing i was wondering about too , and the reason i was planning to make my machine a lot wider compared to its length, i want to be able to slide a full sheet of ply underneath the machine and cut it in stages , the shorter machine only takes in the extra work space when its needed nice to see its reasonably simple to do in VCarvePro , seen someone do some relief cutting with the program too (routing a babyphoto into a block of wood )..... yet another thing to check out

Peter I carved the Mississippi River around New Orleans La. it was 81" long and it came out wonderful. Thanks again.

Great video Peter. Your technique is far superior to the others that I have seen.

As usual Peter I find your video's fantastic and much better than reading the vectric help file. Now to cut a 119" X 46" sign on my joe's 4X4 Cheers... Rick Hubka from Joe's CNC forum

Hi Peter, Thanks so much for the videos. I actually had been thinking about this very thing, cutting pieces larger than the table itself (the table I hope to be getting soon :) ). My thoughts were nearly spot on with your video and it was really great to be able to see this technique used. I have Subscribed to your channel and look forward to watching more of them.

Good Grief.. I can't believe I've been cutting two separate pieces then gluing them together to make up a part that is longer than my router table. I'm not sure how I missed this function of vCarve. Thanks for the video!

thank you peter for upload this video. I use it on my cnc router to cut out a larger piece than the cnc wide. and it works very well. Thank you for that.

wow Very very good explanation. I also do see how to work out the tabs to keep the cutoff. pretty great to do multicut over long part.

Vcarve and the other programs they make are top notch and worth every penny they ask for them. Unfortunately they cost more than the machine I plan on building. Which given my wife's upcoming surgery I now can't afford anyway. So please make more videos because I love watching them and dreaming about making my own someday. Cheers.

gasp... I finally understand how to use the reference marker now! I have a higher level of confidence to make the sign for my friend now. Thank you Peter.

Very clear video. Thank you. Hoping for more videos/classes.

Hello Paul, I always love your video's. Scott

THATS AWESOME, I knew you could do that I just didn't know HOW until now! THANK YOU!

Just seen this tiling video and I am happy I did!!! It was very clear and easy to understand!!! I do like your machine, did you do any videos about your build please?

Fantastic video; thank you for sharing this!

Many thanks ! You do a lot of work for us by creating this great footage, dear Peter! since not everyone has the courage to try something new, I mean: you have to do your scout work! Happy new Year 2020 ! ........................................................... Now in German: Danke vielmals ! Du nimmt uns eine Menge Arbeit ab, in dem Du dieses tolle Filmmaterial zur Schau erstellst lieber Peter ! Da nicht jeder den Mut hat, um etwas Neues zu auszuprobieren, meine ich: man muss deine Pfadfinder Arbeit hoch rechnen ! .......................Frohes neues Jahr 2020

Well explained. Even I could understand that. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed.

Excellent video. Enjoyed it.

Hmmm, before I found your Excellent work, I had an idea to drill two locator holes STRADDLING the interface edge between a fixed reference and the workpiece: half in each, the Perfect (calculated) distance apart. Then, when time to move, I'd slide the workpiece along the fixed reference using, as you did, a cutter bit for the alignment. I've done that eyeballing/rotating thing, but was always worried that I was stressing the bit/adding error. My particular problem is a large topo map that has to match up on X, Y, AND Z along the boundary. Thank you. Agree with the others: you're a natural teacher.

Thanks for the video. Nice Job!

im starting to think that i need to learn vectric aspire more..it seems to be a very good program and has many capabilities....i believe i have vcarve pro built into aspire

Very helpful video , thank you!!

If you know Code, You can draw each half with any cad program. Offset the 2nd file. Modify the G-Code to lift the Z at the end cut. That's how I do it. Still use a Ref. hole.

i can use this feature when i decide to make a long 1.5meter welcome sign for house..it should work out great

Thank you

hi there...thanks for this tutorial. It'll be my inspiration for cutting out a welcome sign 1,5 m x 25 cm on my small C-beam machine. ( a 5 tile project) I like the idea of placing a reference hole...

Thanks! Your video was very helpful!

Very nice! Thank you so much this is a big help!

thank you- the reference hole what I was looking for- Vetric should incorporate this into there tutorials

It looks like it didn't cut any material at the tile joint about 1/4" long or am I just seeing it wrong?

is the tile feature used for what you used it for or does it have another purpose?

Thanks for making this simple, I was wondering how to index the tiles!!

Great info buddy..

Great video, keep them coming. If I can ask what are you using for the speed control on your router and also what pendent are you using?

I read the Vectric site and it spoke of your 'hybrid'. This is why yours looked odd to me. BTW, I'm down sizing from a 48"x48" which has too large a footprint for me now. And with 'tiling' it doesn't really matter. Thanks. Peter

Thanks for the useful video. A question - for the reference hole, would there be any accuracy benefit to drilling it through the workpiece and into the wasteboard, then using a dowel for alignment after, rather than eyeballing the bit into the reference hole?

yep..i just tried it in vectric aspire and its exactly as your version...very good handy feature...may use it one day to do a long sign etc....so does the tile feature basically break up the large projects into smaller sections that are each individual of each other but when tied together they crate the 1 large project?

Greetings Peter, After you align with the hole in T2 do you rehome x and y? LeRoy

Hello to you, thanks for filming that..very helpful. So you’re zero point is dead on the bottom left hand corner?

Hi I just watched you video here and it was great .Thanks I am in need of a video on tiling. Question though the hold downs you use in your video I guess you made them. Do you have a video on them.? if so where can I find it Thanks Jeff

Very helpful! I need to surface a 54" long slab on a 48" machine, and if I mount the slab on a sled, I can drill the hole in the sled and run the T1 surfacing toolpath, and then move the sled further down the table to run the T2 surfacing toolpath. Flip the slab on the sled, re-mount it, and do it all again!

Great video, thanks.

I normally use two holes as far away from each other as is convenient, as datums. A nicely presented explanation, thanks for posting. So much better than that stupid post from Vectric. Like we have machines that are going to regularly do jobs bigger than the machine both in X & in Y.

Hi Peter, All you video's are good. When I get done fixing the poor workmanship on the machine I got, I will start putting you video's to good use. A spin off to Littlestworkshop is to make some special hold down claps with pins on the bottom. You have them set so that when you take them off or on they are to a fixed point X,Y. With two of them spaced out on you table you can step you work down the table. Just a thought.

Great vid.. thanks

Hey Peter, Merry Christmas to you and your family. Love all your videos and have learned so much from you, thanks again. I do have a question for you, when you move your piece to the new spot like in your video x40 y0 to set it up, is that also the new zero xy spot? Thanks again and Good Bless.

This was great overview of tiling, both from a software and execution of the project. Thanks I have a project that is 16x48 but my material is not square. I am using live edge pine. Any comments on how I can manage the physical transition between tiles. Thank you

Vectric VCP version 11: Peter this technique finally caught up with me at 81 years old. Thanks for your video. I have a project to make a 88” diameter ring that is 6” wide, it will be in six sections. My CNC cut area is X 48” and Y 37”. This is cut out of sections of 4x8’ 3/4” plywood. I am arranging four sections in the first of two tile cut, then move the material in the Y direction and finish the cut. In your example you cut one piece in one file using one index hole. Could I highlight all four pieces and just use one hole and cut the four lower sections then move to the the index hole and finish the upper sections, all in one file? Is my assumption correct?

Good info, very useful. Just curious: what is the part for?

Can this be done in vectric aspire too?....this is a great technique

yeah it basically allows you to create basically unlimited length projects :)..and not have to have a $20,000 cnc machine to do it........great feature..thank you for the video....

That's about how I did the 1'000mm Side Skirts for my X-Carve with it's working area of about 790mm x 790mm =)

I like those clamps can you tell me where I can find them please?

Cool thanks for that I have turned work down because my machine wasn’t big enough will try that out later on some scrap my machine is 1000x 1500 So I have a working area of around 850 x 1300 as long as I can support the work sticking out skys the limit lol

Hey Peter, when using the tiling feature on my Shark hd3 I keep having a problem with the tiling feature. While using the tiling function the Second tiled part is about 1/16-1/8 off from the first piece. Any suggestions?

Great Video... I am curious what CNC machine you have. It moves a lot faster than mine!

NICE TUTURIAL!!

Hi Actually, i wonder, if you cannot have space to pull foward the material : Can it be possible to rotate it and set somehow the rest of the cutting ... in reverse ? Thanks a lot

Awesome

so using the tile toolpath function actually creates multiple separate program/toolpaths/gcode files?.......it doesnt create 1 program/gcode file that is broken into multiple segments?

Could you after setting the router to X0 Y0 mover the router X40 Y0 and make a lower index hole, then make the mid index hole at x40 Y700, next cut the T1 part. Next move the stock and place the lower pin in the mid index hole, secure clamp and cut T2. Is this correct?. This is my first try at Tiling. Thanks Peter HH

I realize this is an old video but what if you had to flip your work piece and cut it because it was too long to just move up would it be possible to do that

Whoops. Hit enter too soon. ...putting them together

two or three holes might have been more reassuring

Thanks for the video... I'm trying to cut a simple slot in a long plywood shelf for a standard. I followed your directions and when previewing the tool path it looks right, but when I machine it the 2nd part - it doesn't line up with the first one - off by 1/8" or more. I'm using Aspire. I have a link to the photo here: www.dropbox.com/s/qyzb6bsr7wcp8l8/IMG_7315.JPG?dl=0 Any idea why its not lining up? I even have a fence/rail to guide it the fun length and marked the ends to be sure they are consistent (not out of angle, etc). Thanks so much for the help!

Great tutorial!! Help me too :)