CNC based projects and tutorials for those who wish to learn how to use their machines as well as have fun with them.
Disclaimer: CNC machines and other power tools are dangerous when used incorrectly. These videos are for entertainment purposes. I can accept no responsibility for any injuries you may incur from replication of what you see in these videos. I aim to demonstrate safe procedures but before attempting any project you should have prior machining experience or have done further research. If you are in any doubt about your safety you should look for an alternative method.
Peter, I recently add UCCNC for my machine. When I move the gantry using the keyboard it works fine, however when I run a project in G code the gantry moves very slowly, any suggestions?
I was amazed when you talked about the earplug and the wash 😅😅😅 Maybe a long shot, but you could actually make that brass threaded tube as well on the cnc with a thread mill.
exact stop shakes the machine like hell especially if you have a heavy gantry. then you need to reduce acceleration to create a longer ease in/out move to dampen the energy. the time passing during acceleration moves adds up and drastically changes the working time. here are some of my tips that changed he way i work. -get closed loop steppers at least -constant velocity -max out acceleration, just enough to dampen the shake -max out feedrates -keeping rpm as low as you can, making fat chips and keep endmills cold. -evacuate as much chips possible. -full depth cuts, use most of the flutes to cut not only the tip - using roughing bits with adaptive clearing -spring/finishing cuts to bring everything to tolerance after roughcuts or slotting moves. -i would say avoid slotting and plunging but we all do those. Maybe everyone has a different flavor for using their machine. at least thats my experience so far.
Hi Pete, I know this is 7 years ago but- have you by any chance gotten around to putting together a build list or plan ? Keen to know what extrusion profile you used in NZ. Cheers!
Awesome job! Seeing it on wood made it much more understandable for me as I could actually see the left over fibers from the thinning chip load. I recently made the move from being a high level cnc lathe machinist to mcam programming. It was real tough for me to comprehend the difference between the two as I rarely even used end mills, let alone had to think about the effects of direction of cut. Thank you mate!
Hello Good Job..! Thanks for doing this Can You tell me this..!! I was thinking whether I can Make a Custom Screenset from Scratch..! Can I? I need Modern Screenset Like "Physics Anonymous" Screen4 or Machscreen ? Which is better that gives full control to edit all the features on screen? Can We use any Picture as a BackGround? if so, Which Format? Can We Replace those cluttered retro Buttons with Our own Custom Buttons? Also Which Format? I am Planning to make a Modern GUI Screen and Buttons in Photoshop. Will it work? I am planning to make a console like "DMG Mori" Please give some inputs.. Thanks
Agreed. It doesn't even need to be held in the collet, it could even be a stick taped securely to the outside of the spindle housing. As long as it has a small point and it follows the spindle's movements, it'll work. I've used this method to attach a felt pen to my router so it can draw out large shapes instead of cutting them.
Hello, thank you for your script. I need community advice. I'm setting up the backslash in the settings, saving it. Then I'm doing Save Config. Then I'm restarting Mach3. I double-check, and there are no changes. No matter what value I enter in Backslash, there are no changes.
@22:25 Using the dial indicator mounted into the spindle is also a great method of checking your bed flatness. I run the indicator up, down and across my bed to find any high or low spots when mounting a new spoil board. When finding high spots adding a deep countersunk screw will most times bring it down.
@18:20 When calibrating your axis start with a small number first. Reason being if your preset step calculation are wrong you run a risk of crashing your machine by it traveling farther then you think it will. I started mine at an 1 inch and it travelled 10 inches. Once I entered the travel distance in my Mach3 for recalibration I started over giving it a longer distance. I also just use a 60 degree V bit to give me a nice sharp center point .
looking at the wireless version which works with uccnc .. it has been a while peter hope all is well , miss the great informative videos . are you still into the cnc hobby ?
Doesn't matter how many new designs of cribbage boards I make I ALWAYS refer back to your video here. THANK YOU! for taking the time to do this. Clear, concise, spot on!
Hi Peter , good video and clear instruction .. I have a small issue that then I I input thickness the , I have to lift the touch probe up to the spindle, it beeps and it then comes down and performs everything that it should so im puzzled why it’s doing this, I’m using axbb board , check through all the comments and looks like I’m the only one with this issue, only different is I’m using pin 6 and not pin 12.
Peter, I’m look to enter the CNC world as a hobbyist. Wood will be my main medium, but flexibility for metals required. I see many Chinese products … my budget 2,000 NZD. If you were starting today with that budget what direction would you go?
New subscriber here. Great series on your CNC rebuild. Have you been satisfied with the Z axis unit you purchased? I am considering buying one and wonder how it has performed for you over time.
did you know that the common lath used in the schools. i have one it a 100 years old some sold in the USA had led screws fitted. i am now in a development sag of of adapting it to run on an ELS electric led screw. it cuts thirds well with it banjo, I suspect it will do as well once i have got it running with an electric gear box .
Thank you so much, my friend A great video that gets straight to the point and is 100% understandable. I watched a lot of other videos, but nothing helped me, and thanks to you, I did it. Thank you very much 😊😊😊
Yet another! 7:59 of an infamously NZ delivery. For A$3, I did the same thing with a bent aluminium 1/4" rod. Less time, le$$ money, and less storage space.
Appreciate the video on how to crown the wheels. In regards to your crown template angle, how did you determine the angle for the crown on the wheels? Thank you!
And here i was thinking everything’s the other way around! You know, like lead screws on milling table and rack and pinion on quill or table lift! Thanks for the enlightenment😀👍
can buy cheap vacuum pump about 2-4 CFM suck pump have normal used cnc table what has DIY made. and keep part good on table. normal have 3CFM pump what many uses. very cheap less than 100$ can buy. cheapen than owerprice festool shit vacuum. festool ALL tools have shit and totally owerprice. same can buy many other brand 3-5x cheapen.
Hi Peter. I came across this video you made years ago. It seems the links to the Screen4 software on your website link are no longer working. Can you check it and advise. Thank you!
Acceleration formulas would dictate that there are large differences based on reflected load inertia. The rack has the load at the radius. Also screw fixing being simple simple, Simple fixed, or fixed fixed, will dictate the screw critical speed value. Backlash presents itself also when decelerating the load while still in motion. With the rack, cable will move with the load.
Great tips.... but how do auto square on the masso g3 with out slaving as I need all axis can waste a slave axis ie b to slave Like this video ....ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xGa7zOo5Sq0.htmlsi=IIJkzGkY_aTqZbmT I'm guessing you can use a ardunio in stead of a plc...
I had no idea of the difference between climb cut and conventional cut, just used the default settings in the toolpath. The video explains it very well. tks Tom
Hi Peter. Hope you are well. been a long time since I last looked at your Did you finish all the job's on the cnc.? As I don't see any updates on the build.. 😮
Hi Peter - I bought the exact same Z axis for my own CNC, and I'm curious about your stepper motor size and power, settings, etc. I'm about to order a NEMA23 motor for mine and wondering if 1Nm or 2Nm is enough for a similar 2.2kW spindle.
