The steady rest idea is genius. Why go to the store and buy them for $3 a piece when you can spend thousands on machine tools and hours making them. 🤣 I'd make them, too. Nice job, they look great.
Nice job, stainless steel can be awkward to work with, but with a good set-up it delivers. Using the cross slide at an angle is fine for comparative work, if you move it 0.005" and expect 0.005" removal, you will find it less because of cosine error, due to the cross slide angle. Good post, nice bolts 👍
So it does take a graphing calculator to do it at an angle? I’m just wondering how the guys did the math 70 years ago. Seems kinda cumbersome to have to crunch numbers every pass.
Nice job Vanover. A hint when working with "unknown SS" Use a magnet...if magnetic it is a hardenable [martensetic] SS, if non magnetic it is a non hardenable [austinetic] SS. Remember ALL SS workhardens as it is being machined so take it easy on feeds and speeds!
AWDJRfor that's some very good information. I had never herd that and didn't know how to tell either until your comment. Thanks. That's something I will always remember.
Very refreshing to se someone using the correct method of threading. That’s the way I was taught way back when. The geometry isn’t at all difficult to master but the results are much better than plunging the tool directly. Great video, thanks.
Sexy looking bolts ! Had to watch after seeing that thumbnail !! Lol That ol Colchester is such a beautiful machine and runs so smooth. They just don’t make ‘em like that anymore. I love my Clausing Metosa but that one right there makes me a little jealous.. can’t lie. I was impressed with the parting off too. So effortlessly done. And left a respectable finish at that ! 👍🏻👍🏻
2:28 With an automatic Bar Feeder (either hydraulic or gravity), the bars are supported by a feed tube over 20 feet long. BUT we would provide extra support (especially on small diameter stock) .. with a set of shop made collars The collars fit fit INSIDE the end of the "lathe tube" , that were sized slightly larger than the bar stock being used, and simply attached with a set screw, or a threaded nut depending on the machine. The use of a steady rest for this is an excellent idea !!as it fits every diametre, by design! AND more arcuately and securely fits the bar stock, again by design and consequently improves the safety of the job. One additional benefit is reduced vibration, VIBRATION can sometimes leaves a poor finish on the part being turned, and is difficult to diagnose as simple vibration.
A fine example of machining wizardry and art crossing paths. Those shoulder bolts are worthy of display as a desk ornament in a fabrication shop! Imagine a hidden camera and a client sitting there alone waiting. Provide a companion Nut and I all but guarantee what happens next. Wakodahatchee Chris
1:30 This is a VERY good habit for a small shop to get into. Habitually parting off on the lathe, rather than cutting off in batches on the saw, will tend to save a LOT of material over the years. It would be simple to cut off 4 pieces on the saw, to make the bolts. But this would easily use up twice the material. I have a habit of parting everything on the lathe as i worked in a production shop for many years, and 99% of my jobs were 100 pieces minimum and 99% parted on the lathe with an automatic bar feeder, setting the length. This has a huge advantage of allowing the operator to do other work while the part are being made :) It was not unusual for me to run 4 or 5 machines simultaneously! :)
I lie the idea of making new bolts! .. It's reasonable to assume this Arbour Press will still be in use for generations to come! The fact it looks good? Will help insure that.
Like the rear support ,I can recall seeing a video from a security camera were a long bar was extended out the back of a rather expensive looking CNC work station and the spinning bar started whorling around like whip the entire unit broke loose and endangered other work stations or anybody who could not dodge fast enough.All because whoever set up the job didn`t use a steady.
I noticed that once you'd finished cutting the threads at around 14:00 the peaks get wider towards the head of the bolt, it's easy to tell by the bluing and that's probably what's causing the nut to get tighter the more it's threaded on. What could be causing the change in thread pitch though? I don't think it's the depth of the cut changing because if anything you would expect it to be lighter towards the tip if there was any deflection in the part, not deeper which would be required to narrow the peaks.
Not sure. One thing is for sure this was not my best single point work. I was using a nut as a checker. For my application it would be sufficient but happenstance had me only having one 5/8 nut one hand 🤦♂️. And it was a super sloppy nut. This resulting in a very poor fit. It fit the nut fine but off camera I had to clean them up with a die. In addition there may have been an issue with my lathe causing what you describe the half but is very worn and needs addressing. I since try to do my threading on the American until I get to the colchester to address the nut. On my personal projects these things don’t matter much but lots to learn.
Looks great! I kind of thought it looked way nicer with the round nose being used for the milling, before you squared it off. Yeah the surface finish needed addressing with buffing or something though. Just my opinion, which is worth nothing :) Nice job.
There is so much self created good here. You have to try to find the negatives. But some seem intent on doing so. Did you spot the carriage moving a tad from your comfortable position on the couch? ! Did you scoff at the hand made bolts he could have ordered from Amazon?! Or maybe you saw it all: the lathe he tore down and cleaned/ polished painted that u so wished you had, the shop he busted his ass to create, the unique angle he shot to allow us to visualize his method of single point threading… Seriously, the sour grapes of some of the comments from the cheap seats, are laughable. Vanover customs makes COMPELLING content - which we clearly love to watch. He gets better with every vid. There is significant self taught methods and innovation. If you are experienced enough to identify ways to improve - try adding to it rather than attempting to just tear it down. Fun / interesting channel.
Thank you. You have hit the nail on the head. I am very open to constructive feedback. That’s how I learn. But tons of people are running their mouth in the comments with negativity when I am the one working hard to create both good projects and videos. People sit there and consume and complain forgetting perspective. Thanks for your comment.
Question on your lathe dials how did u touch up the tic marks and numbers where they were legible and readable? i have tried to clean mine and then go in with a fine point sharpie to give them new life but the sharpie doesn't last forever. Wondering what u did and if there is a better way.
I’m intrigued, do you not need to use coolant / cutting fluid when machining Stainless? So good to see the restored lath in use as well, great and informative video, cheers 👍
I’ve been on a stainless steel kick for months now. I love how easily it machines and finishes out so nice without all the Emory clothe and scotch bright fondling.
You don't want to spend the money on a few bolt but you have spent probably over $2000 with shipping and maybe extra jaws and you have spent thousand of dollars on Festool tools which are way to expensive compared to Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee which are as good as Festool which are expensive because the are made in Germany and the price of Systainers is a joke. That said you make good videos.
Get out of here bro. Yes I got nice tools but why waste money when you can make what you need. Plus I would rather invest in my equipment and make videos then just buy everything. Just because someone has nice tools does not mean they have lots of money. There is a story behind everything and it’s more nuanced then it always appears.
Not all alloys of stainless do not rust. Some contain iron and are magnetic. So it pays to know your alloy. Anytime you use a stainless thread you should use antisieze on it. They gaul like crazy, especially upon removal and reinsertion, and there is no mention of it in Machinery’s Handbook!Therefore it is a phenomenon.
That's not entirely true. All stainless steel contains iron or it wouldn't be called steel. Magnets are weird they affect all kinds of things not just ferrous metals. Some stainless steels are less magnetic than others but that doesn't determine their level of rust resistance. What sets stainless apart is that it has enough free chromium to form a protective layer of chromium oxide. Some stainless steels are more stainless than others and some are less stainless. Basically, all stainless is resistant to rust but to what extent is down to the individual metallurgy or each grade of stainless.
