Yah Peter is really coming along with his video production, Ive been following him a few years now and the consideration he gives not only his work but us the viewers is second to none. This channel is more informative then Titans, even though Titan says hes about learning, Titan wants us to pay for that learning. Peter is one of a kind.
@@Juxtaposed1Nmotion I agree, Titan is like the Nascar of CNC machining, pure product placement and advertising. Sure they have cool shit but very few shops really invest that much into equipment. I've worked at a couple places that would spend the money but most shops I work at you're trying to get the job done with what you already have.
great job with the split screen and the graphics/model mimicking the actual machining side by side. You always go the extra mile Peter to clearly explain your machining operations when it would otherwise be unclear. That's only one of the ways your channel is on another level compared to the average machining channel. Thanks for being a great machinist and teacher!
Just got my real CNC lathe, trying to up my lathe game. Great stuff, thanks for sharing. Subscribed. Also I am glad that I'm not an idiot for not being able to get a 4-jaw setup dialed in in three bumps of a mallet.
I like the use of back turning bb's for the deep bores but from the opposite side. Its always tempting to bore from the natural side, but if you can fit a back turning bar in from the other side its gold!
Hi Peter, just adding to other people's comments - the CAD simulation overlay was really good!! It's one thing to use your mind's eye, but seeing it this way really makes a difference. Thank you :)
Seeing the simulation around 8:00 lined up perfectly with the machine in real life was super satisfying. Is there a reason why when you were using the larger insert drills in the beginning you used the milling spindle instead of the turning spindle to turn the part keeping the drill clamped? I would think on a drill that large RPM wouldn't be an issue unless the machine just works better like that. Thanks again for the great video.
I get a better indication of the load on the drill in the milling spindle. The milling spindle has no problem with drills this size. It was only at around 38% load with the 2.06” drill.
As always I'm impressed. I myself operate on a humble Mazak QT200 only 2 axis and 16 tools. My boss does all the setup and I run parts. I can't wait to get out of my shop to work on bigger and better machines to make bigger and better parts.
I'm not sure Bigger equals Better. More metal off could equal more drama and excitement I'll agree. You'll be happiest where your skill and talant best match the job / boss requirements. For sure I completely understand your sentiments 100%
That sure is a good idea to overlay the tool simulation. Outstanding, we can see what the tool is doing. Must be an editing nightmare for you. Thank you.
Ive always enjoyed H1025. Its such a simple HT, we do it in house and makes way better cutting conditions than annealed. Even H900 is better than annealed
Check out EZ-Burr abs Huele. You can deburr your internal and external holes easily. Great video. I like how you sped up the machine tool paths so the video isn't too long. Keep up the good work. Oh ya.. and you should probably fix the dance party light in the back of the cabinet lol.
I have used those burrs before. In fact I have some but I couldn’t find them. So the deburr guys will have to handle it. It just started to do that the day I filmed the video clips.
LOVE THIS VIDEO!!! Don't get me wrong. I love your commentary & enjoy hearing you explain what you're doing & why.... But this video is SO WELL DONE! Super cool & a break from your norm! Nice. Maybe you could make another version of this video with commentary. Same video, same audio, except with you commentating over top (maybe with the machining sounds in the backround?). I think that would be cool too. Up to you. But cool vid none the less. Luv your content! 👍
I have actually already thought about doing that. There is a lot to explain about what’s in this video. The tooling the planing of the job are just a few.
Thanks Peter, really fascinating video, i like the added touch of the simulation. looks a fairly complex part, almost looks like an oil industry part. Seeing the small bore thread milling got me all excioted to have a go myself. Oh oh, i see a crash in my future. Rigid tapping ive mastered but machining a thread thats a different animal. I really need to pay more attention to your set up - im quite lazy in that respect, your technique is somthing i can learn from. Great content as usual, many thanks.
I do live tool lathe stuff everyday, no independent milling head (yet) but this is an awesome video for a guy in the trade. This is a real life video not a promo it made me drool a bit lol cool part. Question though, why the hand chuck instead of a hydraulic chuck? Also, was that like, multi-stage thread milling? What's the benefit of that if so? Always looking to learn, cool stuff!
The tool has three threads or the cut length is three leads of the thread. So for the first tool in the video it’s a 24 pitch thread. That would be .125” of thread per revolution. So the tool needs to take a pass every .125” to reach the thread depth.
Excellent video thanks Peter. A question. Is it possible to re-cut the threads if they mill under size with another thread mill? What I mean is if you have to change the thread mill because of damage for example, I would assume the the cutting edges need to be aligned some how to avoid damaging the threads already there. I hope that makes sense.
If the thread mill is exactly the same and you touched it off the same. In theory yes. What I have done before is to put the new tool in and increase the diameter in the offset. This is if you are using cutter comp. and sneak up on it till it gauges. If you are doing a large thread. You could spray some blue dikem in the hole and carefully watch as you adjust the offset out until you see it wipe off the bluing. Note what side of the thread it is and adjust the offset accordingly. The best way is to set the offset on a optical toolsetter to the actual thread cutting part of the thread mill. Say line up on the theoretical thread point then go up one half a lead of the thread and call that the end of the tool. That way if you break that tool you can recapture the same length. On the new tool in relation to the actual thread cutting portion of the tool.
Nothing like the sound of an intergrex that’s being pushed hard when it’s been prg set and operated by someone who actually knows what they are doing I can always tell a good machinist by the noise coming from the machine
Nice video. Nice touch adding the simulation view in the screen. I would be interested in hearing you explain each step. it would also be nice if you would show the machining portion in normal speed. That machine is amazing for me to watch.
@@EdgePrecision If it's going to be heat treated after welding, they could have specified H1150M material for better machinability. Maybe something you can recommend to a customer for future jobs in PH stainless steels.
I’d hate to be the poor guy that has to inspect those things at the customer’s shop. The only hope you would have is to use a coordinate measuring system and even then it would be a bear. Nice work. Thanks Peter.
Peter has some pretty fancy video editing skills 👍 Was that OP1 boring bar dampened? I like that back boring cycle on the 2nd OP, I'd like to get a bar like that, and I'd need a good gauge for checking it. Cool video 💯
Yes the bar in the material prep part and the back boring bar were Sandvik silent bars. If you are going to spend the money on damped bars, don't wast your time. Just buy the Sandvik ones. They are the best and really work. For a long time I resisted that and tried others. Now after using them, They are worth it. They work that good.
i have a question about drilling on a multi tasking mashine like yours. How do you decide the drilling strategy i mean when du you use the spindel and when the milling spindel. im working on a 2 turret lathe x,z,c,y i always have to use my spindel cuz my driven tool axis is not strong enugh for like a 2" hole but on long and out of round and squarenes parts its some times scarry to drill with my preferd feeds and speeds. Im just intreseted how you plan a simple thing like drilling a part
On my machine the milling spindle has 50 Hp up to 10,000 rpm. So if possible I prefer to drill using it. Because I get a much better indication on the load indicator of the milling spindle how the drill is doing. The turning spindle is 60 Hp up to 1,600 in high range running thru a gearbox. So its load indication is not as sensitive (If that makes sense). Also the turning spindle take more time to ramp up to speed and slow down (Not really a major consideration, but it's there). So with the drill you saw in the first part (Material Prep). The 2.06" diameter one only draws about 35% load on the milling spindle. So far all the time running this machine I have never had either spindle to 100% load.
@EdgePrecision I just recently had a job with this material and heat treated to H1025 as well, I however could not drill it. I tried both HSS drills and carbide. I was using a 1/4” drill. What would you recommend for speeds and feeds? Any help would be much appreciated.
You shouldn’t have any trouble drilling it with a carbide drill. A conservative speed would be 150 surface feet. For .25 drill that would be around 2300 RPM and let’s say a feed of around .003” per rev. Around 7.0” per minute. If you don’t have thru the tool high pressure coolant and the hole is deep. Your going to have to peck drill. Not perfect for a carbide drill but it does work. Just don’t do to deep of pecks. Say around .080”. Not only is the peck to clear shavings but it helps to cool the tool as well. You can drill it with a HSSco drill. But don’t go faster then 50 surface feet ( 760 rpm) and around .004 per rev. (3.0” per min). Also peck drilling.
Peter can you explain the benefits of thread milling from the top to bottom? I have always thread milled from the bottom to the top but if it is a benefit to do too to bottom I would sure like to know
These tools have a shorter cut length than the finished thread depth. So in that case I always start the peck depths from the top down. This way I’m cutting into a already cut thread (if that makes sense). It can be one from the top down or from the bottom up as you say you do. In essence I am milling from the bottom up in smaller pecks. Do you start at the bottom and mill to the top in one cut? If so, if the cut length of your tool is longer than one lead. You are making more passes than necessary.
I try not to hammer into the gauge. Just away from it. But the way I look at it. So what if it shortens the life. I need to see how much the part moves. I will replace a $100.00 indicator when necessary. That said I can’t tell you if it shortens the life. I have been doing this for years without a problem.
When you do the drilling and boring of the large through hole, how do you avoid that the coolant is getting in the lathe spindle and spraying out the left side of the machine?
There was a shoulder in the holes left by the two drills. The larger one (2.06" dia.)to the smaller one (1.50" dia.). This boring bar has to remove what is left of the 2.06" drills tip before the shoulder. What I found is, If I drove the roughing bar clear to the shoulder it would break the insert. Because this bar just fits into the hole so there is no where for the shavings to go. This solved the problem, to stop .250" short of the shoulder with the rough boring cycle. Than finish the boring with light facing cuts to the shoulders depth. Once the bore was roughed to a larger size there was more space for the shavings to remove the last .250" of the bore. With the facing cuts. I have found this quite often works in these situations. Hope this answers your question. Thanks!
That bar is a little large for the hole. If I drive it right up to the shoulder there is no room for the shavings. It breaks the insert. What I found is I stop .250” short than do the last .250” with shallow facing cuts. This kept the insert from breaking.
If the thread feels close on the go end I don't always test the no go end. In particular on a milled thread with a full profile thread mill. Now there can be a situation with turning a thread where the go gauge feels close but the no go can start if the threading insert is worn or chipped on the tip. So if you are turning a thread you need to keep track of your insert and the ID diameter (Or root diameter/depth and OD on OD Thread). Don't just keep offsetting the tool to get the go gauge to fit. If there seems to be something not right. It probably isn't right.
What anyone would use a left-thread angular-contact wobbulator like this for, I have no idea. It is shiny thought! Have you ever had an op where constant surface speed wasn't helpful? Just out of curiousity.
I have used constant rpm for rouging and finishing in a situation when the part is very small compared to the lathe and the machine seems to struggle with acceleration and deceleration due to inertia near max rpm. Would likely see this with something like 14hp (continuous) motor and 10 in chuck rated for at least 4000 rpm.
When you run parts like this I presume the cost of the materials and work done are more than endmills. If your doing a run is it new endmills each time or just watch like a hawk ready to swap out? I saw you were really conservative with the gun drills before which made me think I have the luxury of running aluminium but I still wear out tools on the matsuura running 24/7. 100 hours of cut time ain’t bad. Not quite the same wear rate🤣
I presume you are referring to the Z offset. I jog it to a place (usually in the bore. Then use a parallel used in a milling vise. But anything straight will do. Put it across the face and jog the tool just until the sharp edge of the parallel just won’t catch the tip if the tool. I set the offset there and adjust the wear offset in a little. Then run the tool measure and adjust the wear to the final dimension. The X is done in the normal way.
What you are actually seeing is mist from the coolant. And even sometimes when the cutting is hard there will be steam from the water in the coolant. But it actually isn't smoke.
