I've purchased 3 A9 cams over the years, all from different manufacturers and recently put them all side by side and not a single one had the same lift/duration/or lobe separation! Now they all showed wear at this point from being used but nowhere near enough to make up for the discrepancy. I bring this up to maybe highlight why some people swear by the A9 and others have had similar results as your own here. Wish i could remember which one was the 'good' one but the other two were same as stock or worse as far as performance!
@tedowen409 stick with the T100 you've played with already. I used to use A9 exclusively on all of my builds, once I tried out the tiada cams I never looked back. A9 can be great but it's such a gamble on what your actually getting. Worst part for me was spending days tuning around a new cam just to put the old one back in and having to unfook what I did lol.
I watched some guy take a cam on v blocks and compared the relative heights of the lobes. He swears one is high lift, cause it is taller in relation to the other. He did not however measure the distance from the bottom of each lobe to the top. So the taller cam could also have a taller bottom lobe that relates to less lift. I'm working on a cam profiler in my head, using encoders and digital scales to show us exact lift, duration, separation and timing. But it's like #10 on the list or so...
@@ThePitProductions good luck with that. Shit makes my brain hurt. I'm running my valves looser. Was reading about the advantages. Less small open time.
It's not the cam U need to make a good set up Get less grams on the variator u need to be spinning ground 8.1rpm to SEE what he can do. Thats a power cam not a torque cam 6.3rpm she it's sleeping My friend
I'm loving your videos. I just installed the electric FP. My Gen V it was running out of fuel in the bowl and choking itself out at WOT for too long, and that was with the Mikuni. I can't get the bigger 842 belt to travel the full face of the variator even with 10g rollers but I was pegged out to 8k RPM. I installed 12g and it didn't want to go over 7k, I just installed the 50/50 of 10g and 12g but due to living in Iowa it's been to cold to test it.
Ya I still don't know where my Gen 5 belt goes up to with 842 belt, but it hits 8k and runs so good I am reluctant to put the 171 kit on. LOL. The Gen 4 won't go above 7k now with 10 or 12 grams. Put the stock cam and belt back in. It is slower now. I guess it needs the 14g rollers... but shouldn't that lower RPMs? We will see. Making no sense.
@@GhettoWrench my stock clutch kit and variator had 14g rollers and pulled harder than it did wit 10g. That's verified because I could pull from my buddies Grom but he would catch me in later mph range but it's weird. Rpms were always 8k ish but again shouldn't 14g be lower rpms lol. I'm wondering if it's because stock clutch, variator and belt size...
@churchhalfling I agree. Lighter rollers are supposed to more RPM... but, does not seem to be working that way. I had higher RPM with the 14g rollers than the 11g. I don't get it. LOL
Sir. I'm trying to get in contact with seen your vids. Your knowledgeable in this field an I'm not. I'ma wood butcher an I'm 41 an I know to access the best an I need your help . I bought a super kit for 180$ for 50cc I got scretch maddog an they slapped it together. Tell me what to do pls
@seanmayo206 So you had a shop put kit in? I have seen shops do some goofy stuff in that CVT area. It ain't that bad to pull apart yourself. Watch some more detailed videos on how the stuff goes together and make sure they did it right.
Did you check you valve clearances after installing the new cam? You probably didn't have any clearance with the bigger cam meaning the valves would constantly stay party open meaning you loose compression
I tried several different adjustments between .006 and .002 on both sides. And ya, I triple checked them. I spent 2 days dealing with that cam. LOL My pro mechanic buddy said the duration was why I have lower compression and wanted to know the duration and lobe height, etc. I said I had no idea, and that is all magic to me.
@@GhettoWrench very interesting perhaps it was just a bad grind like you said then, tonnes of duration and overlap could definitely lower the compression reading down at cranking speeds but they generally provide excellent power through enhanced scavenging in the top end. But if they got the timing a bit off in the lobes that would definitely have a huge negative impact. I'm a motorcycle mechanic too (and I love throwing Ali express parts at my shitbox projects 😂)
@JshDav LOL... same. That Taida T100 was an awesome upgrade. I am waiting for a SSP-G A12 next to try on the red bike. EBay purchase so we will see. LOL. Oh and I put a "big valve" head and 171 kit on the black bike. The damn Valves are identical size as the stock ones. The intake port is bigger, but the valve is the same diameter. So I feel ripped again. LOL
@@GhettoWrench Ahh spewing, I'm just about to fit an Ali express big valve head to my cb125 cafe racer myself, (big bored to 185cc, bigger cam, bigger flat slide carb etc) fingers crossed it does actually have bigger valves! Even if it doesn't though it will still give me the chance to block off at SAI and give it a port & polish it while the bike is still in one piece with the old head
You mean it stays on top on the back pulleys? The clutch. U need to spin the engine faster to get the front plates (variator) to come together to pull belt down in the back. If engine RPM is already high enough then try heavier roller weights
@@GhettoWrench where you put the rollers it doesn't allow me to put the belt down like in this video ur belt seats low if I try to push it down it's hard to ... I'm gonna try 16g rollers not sure what mines are never got to weight them they came like that
