Great video. I’ve been researching pressure tester / fillers for awhile now. I have a 98 Dodge Ram that I’ve been having overheating issues with to the point where I just took the thermostat out. Never could get all the air out. Now that it’s summer in south Louisiana I need the thermostat back on. The question I had was answered first thing when I went to your comments. It was concerning if the entire system would fill up with the thermostat installed. Thanks again.
For perpetuity, should fill up the fill tube first cause you are drawing a big air pocket into your system. Have 1 gallon extra too so you don't have an issue pulling coolant
Question, if you have a vehicle like a older Ford pickup the world require the plug on the engine block to be removed to completely drain the coolant system, can this be used to completely drain it instead?
well this tool isnt designed to remove all the fluid... when using it some fluid that has been left over might come out. i wouldnt use it to drain all the fluid. would it work? possibly but it wasnt designed to that. its just to put a vacuum on the system to help fill it back up completely without having air pockets.
When I did my test needle wasn't movimg as smooth as yours and I couldn't get it to 24 or 26 either.and I was getting a lot of overflow from the exhaust.i got it to -23 as I shut air valve off I lost -2 instantly.any idea y?
I'd do a positive pressure test if I had those issues. This system is doing a negative pressure test/fill. Just remember that your cooling system probably operates at 16psi or in that area. CHECK YOUR RADIATOR CAP OR REPAIR MANUAL BEFORE YOU PRESSURIZE THE SYSTEM. There's no need to mess things up that aren't broken. Also make sure you have coolant or water in the system before running the test. Anyway, I'd be willing to bet that your cooling system is compromised somewhere. You're going to be looking for coolant/water leaking out with this test. So make sure it's NOT hot!!!!! This test is done with it cold. No point in ending up in the hospital with 2nd degree burns (or worse). Hope this helps and you find the problem. Be safe out there.
So I was running a 27 gallon air compressor for a while, I used it for my air tools and tire machine. But I then went to a 2 stage 80 gallon... I feel the smaller one would work but have the extra volume in the 80 gallon is very nice.
I have a 17 cummins did a water pump drained 5.5 gallons only took 4. Will this work with my 4 gallons already in the tank or will it just keep shooting the existing coolant out while putting the system under vacuum?
Tried it on a UTV 700 and wouldn’t hold air pressure, not sure it it’s a total sealed system. Left the air on the whole time spit an sputtered until I had a constant drip coming out of the air release overflow valve then sucked in fluid only 1/4 of a gallon, System did have some coolant in it. Took it off and was filled up to cap. Anyone have experience with UTV is the concept the same? I don’t have anything leaking?
The concept should be the same. And it should be a sealed system for sure. The only pressure release should be from the radiator cap. If it's not sealing up, air can get into the coolant system causing leaking conditions and causing air pockets which could cause over heating conditions.
That's a great question and I asked myself that as well. After I used the tool. I started the car up and did my normal bleeding procedure.... my levels never changed and I didn't have any heating issues afterwards.
i didnt have to. i just did it to be safe since i never used this tool before. its been a while since i did that job and ive had no heating issues with the cobra.
Thanks for the video I bought this from Harbor Freight because my son's 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 series 3 always has issues with air pockets. The instructions that come with the unit are definitely not as clear as your video. Thank you thank you
@@BigBlueRacing I do not believe that the vacuum opens the thermostat here since this is sucking the system the opposite way if anything it's keeping it closed.
its been a while since I used it. but im pretty sure you want to manually drain the coolant. get as much out as possible. when you use the tool, you could see it bring anything left over out through the lines.
For this one yes. They do sell a hand pump one at harbor freight that adds positive pressure to your system to find leaks. This one has negative pressure which is what allows it to suck the new coolant into the system. It's called a Radiator Pressure Test Kit by Maddox and it costs $129.99.
It pulls a vacuum on the system..... the cooling system is a closed system so it should pull the vacuum and hold it. If there's any leaks, that's where the vacuum will drop. If that happens you'll have to use either a dye or smoke machine to help pin point the leak. Could be head gaskets, thermostat gasket, bad radiator hoses, bad radiator, hole in the heater core, heater core hoses, hose connections, temp sensor seal.... could be a number of things that would cause it to lose the vacuum.
if youre cap is on the radiator, youll have to put it on there. and crimp off the overflow to the tank. if youre pressure cap is on the tank and not on the radiator, you will have to put it on the tank.
I have this but I was told I need to prime the hose have it full of coolant before filling the system is that true because wouldnt the empty hose push air into the systen?
Thats a very good point. After I used it, i double checked using my traditional way. Everything worked well and I didn't have any issues or air trapped in the system.
I saw someone else suggest opening the fill hose for a second before shutting off the air - just long enough to fill the hose with coolant from the bucket - then shut both valves, look for any leak-down on the vacuum gauge, then open the fill valve to fill the system.
Once you pull the vacuum it can bring more coolant out when it's doing that.... now is it going to pull all of it out of the block.. I can't say 100% yes.. but it does get most of it out.
could be a number of things. anything from head gaskets to just a bad connection with the tool. did you see any leaks when the car was running and the coolant level was full?
Do you know what to do if the dash lights come on afterwards the brake light the abs the vcs the exclamation point light..but when I run my obd2 reader there are no faults in the computer ..I can't clear them since the computer says they aren't there..
depends on what tool you have. the cheap obd2 are just code readers for the engine. the higher end ones can tell you what is going on with the other faults. it can be a bunch of different things when it comes to throwing those lights unfortunately.
That really seems to be a problem with either the ignition switch or gauge cluster. It seems to be stuck in the bulb-test mode that you would normally only see when you turn the key to the “on “ or “run” position before starting the car.
My biggest issue with this tool is the gauge on it. Absolute atmospheric pressure is very close to 14.7 psia. Therefore, with gauge atmospheric pressure at zero, the lowest the vacuum could ever get to is -14.7 psig. Anything lower than that isn't possible. But functionally the tool seems to work well and I'm going to get one for myself. Maybe I'll figure out if I can put a real gauge on it, but it likely doesn't need one since you are looking for a change over time in the vacuum.
