I have used this mix for over 40 years. Worst problem is it will freeze if used in wintertime. The most powder put through a barrel without cleaning is one pound. I soak patches not spray. Each time you push a ball down you clean the barrel.
@@keithmoore5306 there is no problem with the mix damaging the powder charge. I have loaded and left this for several days many times with no problems. Years ago I have won state championships using this lube. I have shot deer at over 200 yards using this lube.
My opinion of Dawn Dish Shop is it's the best stuff since beer in bottles. I use it as a Black water tank cleanser in my RV. Works great there, too, as well as a handy, safe cleanser for my shop . I'm thinking this is the most underappreciated product ever!!
That same mixture also makes a hand cleaner that’s unbeatable by anything on the market you put it in a spray bottle just like he did and use it as needed your hands will never be dirty again I learned about it at a diesel motor rebuild shop
I have worked a LOT of filthy jobs. I have found two soap products I now swear by. Dawn dish soap, which is strong enough to strip the oils and tar out of asphalt, and don’t ask me how I know that. The second one is LA’s Totally Awesome, found in Dollar Tree, Family Dollar, and Dollar General. I would spray that stuff onto our pavers every morning, and just let it soak in. Rain, or a garden hose once a week would take of incredible amounts of the accumulated tar. That Awesome stuff, adding a cup of that stuff to the work laundry would take off just about anything. But the Dawn, it was the nuts for cleaning the shop floor, and your grimy paws. Well, the Awesome did that, too…
Very interesting. I use dawn dishsoap and hot water to clean my flintlock barrel after a full day of shooting. I never would have thought to use it as a patch lube. Thanks for sharing the idea.
and "I Literally" go shooting with a bucket with a spray bottle of This MIX give or take for cleaning, few gallons of water, Ballistol mixed in sprayer with some pure! AND I never knew?
You can run these patches every third shot and you get close to the same results, and you don't get quite as slimed. A baggie with sponged dampened with the mix makes for a quick press the patch into the sponge and go operation. Just don't get the sponge dripping wet. Just my two cents, feel free to ignore. lol
@@davefellhoelter1343 that might work, I wonder if opening an altoids tin with slimey fingers would be an issue, not sure. Maybe I'll give it a try next time I have a tin. Thanks for the suggestion
@@donakahorse probably! but "I Shoot" with a rag at arms reach as I SLIME my BP shooters with my DIY Bore Butter anyway. I look like a grease monkey Chimney sweep after a few shots. now I can have soap included?
@@davefellhoelter1343 the tin idea has some merit, the thing is, I keep the sponge in a baggie because I can leave it open in my jacket pocket. Opening the tin would be a few more things to do. But I'm not here to tell anyone else how to do things, I only mention things that work for me :)
I've always used Hoppe's No. 9 Plus to lube the patches and it has the added bonus of cleaning the bore as the ball comes up the barrel. This stuff allowed me to shoot a 40 shot match with out swabbing. This included the time between matches, when the rifle just sat in the rack..After the change in the Hoppe's formula it had been just OK. I tended to need a swabbing a couple of times. I have been interested in a new patch lube and will give this a try.. PS. Patch lube seems to be one of the greatest mysteries of muzzle loading. Everyone uses the BEST stuff ever and if you have a problem with fouling the first thing that is asked is " What patch lube are you using?" When you answer..They get a sad expression, roll their eyes and say "Well there's your problem!
I have heard over the years about people using this but never tried it. Thanks for trying it and for the video. Don't think I will be using it, too slimey for me. I use Ballistol and water 1 part Ballistol to 4 or 5 parts water and get the same results, shoot all day without cleaning, and its not slimey. Thanks for all your videos I like the way you do them - no BS and right to the point of the subject.
When you get a little older, the sleep thing will become a little more apparent to you.Getting old can really SUCK!!! As one of my doctor's quoted a patient(the only thing golden about my senior years is my PISS!!!) Love your videos and thanks 👍👍 for sharing your vast black powder knowledge with us.
Well, what about using this 'dish-soaped' patched every third shot? and how does this compare to a greased patch, or a moonshine-greased patch?...(more historical)
Great video, I need to try it. For the past couple of years I've been shooting woods walk matches which are 20 rounds each, loading from the pouch. I've used either Hoppe's No.9 BP Lube (formerly No.9 Plus) or Mr. Flintlock lube. I shoot a .50 caliber rifle with a .490 ball in an 0.018" ticking patch, on top of 55 grains of 3Fg Goex or Scheutzen, and do not need to swab during the match. The last round loads as easily as the first and cleanup is quick.
I use Dawn and hot water to clean my black powder guns after shooting. Takes it down to the bare metal easily, then a quick re-oil and they're like new. I'm not surprised it is doing a number on fouling down the barrel, though I'd be careful about rust down here in the deep south. For this kind of shooting it looks to work a treat, but for hunting, where the barrel is going to go for a while between shots, and the way that Dawn removes oil, it could be problematic. Nice idea to have in the kit bag though.
Just a single shot for a weekend hunting, I won't use it. There's unough oil in there for one loading. Shoot it Sunday, clean and oil. Load it Friday with a dry patch.
OK, I'm impressed. Next time I bring my flintlock to the range, I'm going to have to try this. Thanks for the info. Update, August 9th… Finally, got a chance to visit the range with my Lyman trade gun and I tried this out. Damn, it worked really well. Once again, thanks for the heads-up.
I routinely shoot a 30+ shot patched ball match with "slimy patches" Often a mix of the cheapest hand lotion I can find and Ballistol or water. Mix to taste. Also Murphys Oil soap and water mix. Haven't tried the Dawn concoction. I think you are correct, cleans the bore each swab, and helps keep what fowling remains soft. The problem I run into is not the with bore but with the combustion chamber. It gets so lined with fowling that I notice the ball, even with firmness won't seat as deep., I've taken to running a dry clump of tow on a worm down into the chamber (and twisting) every 10th shot or so to keep the chamber from fowliing too badly, the tow comes out loaded with fowling. At the matches we always have a loading table so I have a rag handy to keep my hands dry. A side effect is that my hands are very clean at the end of the match. I've tried the pre lube idea and kept the patches in a jar, but they it's just as fiddly. If you leave the jar or baggy open the patches dry out, and if you keep the container closed then its just a fiddly as lubing for each shot. I doubt hunters would want a wet patch next to their charge while they were waiting for a shot. I have occasionally experimented with a light cardboard wad on top of the powder, but don't think it matters for patched round ball off hand shooting. As for all day... well that's a relative thing, the match's last two or three hours, and it seems like all day..
I use 1 cup of Dawn 1 cup Murphy’s oil soap and 9 oz of hopes. In a gallon jug and fill with water. Shoot all day at .Bp shoot. I will add food coloring mostly green and red. I presoak patches and put in sandwich bag..
Damn that is bitchin. Dawn is a great degreaser. It’s used to wash oil off birds that get caught in spills. I wonder if that degreasing quality it has is breaking down the fouling. Pretty cool.
When you showed the recovered patch with the unburnt powder stuck to it, it made me wonder how much unburnt powder was blown out the barrel behind it. To me, it seems the 50/50 mix of DAWN AND WATER would work ok if you were loading and shooting as fast as you can, but I'd hate to see what would happen in a hunting type situation where the rifle is loaded for maybe several hours before it's fired. I tend to think that lube/cleaner would contaminate a lot of powder and also maybe create a plug in the barrel. I have used liquid dish soap and hot water for years to clean my Black Powder Firearms and also antifreeze /coolant for your cars and trucks as black powder cleaner and all kinds of diabolical mixtures of stuff for Black Powder cleaning and lube. Some worked, and some didn't . What I found out is that most of the commercial stuff is just as good as anything I came up with for use with my Black Powder Firearms and the shooting the same. Now I do make my own bullet lube for my cast bullets for my Black Powder cartridge firearms. I also make my own paper cartridges for my cap and ball pistols. While most that make paper cartridges for their pistols complain about unburnt paper or ashes left in their cylinder chambers , I do not with my way of making mine! I guess what I'm trying to say is, " I welcome hearing what others do or make, but I take it with a grain of salt until I try it myself or figure out if I already tried it or tried it and maybe used other ingredients or so. Hell! At over 50 years of shooting, hunting, competition shooting, and
I use 50% Murphy's oil soap and 50% 409 degreaser. You can clean your barrel with it too. You can shoot all day without fouling. But every 4 or 5 shots, I run a couple patches down the barrel to clean it. My whole group used our concoction then when our competitors found out...they started using it too. It works wonderfully. I used my empty cap container and soaked my patches in that. Used pillow ticking round patches...they fit perfectly.
Dawn is fantastic stuff. I use it for pretty much every damn thing. In the haz waste industry we would buy it by the drum and use it in pressure washers to decon / degrease everything including concrete floors. Passed lab tests every time.
That's one way to do it. It basically cleans the barrel every time you ram a ball home and, if the patch is not soaked too much, it won't significantly harm the powder. For a hunting load, I'd use a waxed wad or cardboard tab between powder and ball, though. The other way is the greased patch. 50% beeswax, 50% _unsalted_ vegetable margarine. Change proportions slightly based on weather: little more beeswax for hot weather, little more margarine or olive oil for cold weather, no need to loose your sleep on exact perchentages, it doesn't matter that much, just keep the mix consistent each shooting session. What this does is keep fouling very soft. The ball will go down the bore smoothly. If it starts to feel gritty and dry, you are using too little grease on the pacth, or your grease is too solid for the weather. Again, the end result is you can shoot all day long. I used grease pills of the same mixture between 20 grains of FFFg Swiss powder and round ball in my Uberti 1851 Navy, lubed abundantly (arbor and mechanism) with jojoba oil, which is a modern ethical substitute for sperm whale oil used back then (exact same composition), and the maximum number of shots I fired was 16 cylinders (96 shots), and stopped firing only because I ran out of powder. Last cylinder went just as smooth as the first one, just as accurate. I could have gone on firing till the cows came home. Personally, I like the greased patch better as I don't like the idea of regularly putting water down the bore (that patch seems to show reddish traces of rust), but that's me and I didn't perform any scientific or near-scientific test on the subject, so maybe it's just in my head and there's nothing real to it.
Uh, yea... Never knew this was an argument. I've found that any slippery, water-based patch lube or cleaner will do this. Dish soap, Simple Green, XYZ brand BP cleaner, etc. all do the same thing -- soften & swab the fouling as you load. Most of the time, spit is fine up to about a dozen shots or so. It isn't as good but good enough. I carry a 2 oz squeeze bottle with me hunting that fits perfectly fine in my small hunting kit. Besides being a good cleaner & lube, it also gets used as a quick spot scrub if I happen to touch poison oak. Where the dish soap fails me is with flintlocks that have a chambered breech. The fouling simply continues to build in the breech since the patch can't reach it. It doesn't take more than a dozen or two shots to build up enough crud to get something that will cause a blockage of some kind. Percussion sparks get injected with enough force to blow past any of these blockages but my flintlocks can't manage to clear them without disassembly.
dude love your channel! I hope you won’t mind me giving genuine constructive criticism. I also wish to not offend the camera man.. I’m not picking on him to be mean or anything of the sort (and Mr camera man if you’re reading this; no offense intended I know the habit well and it’s hard to break). that said. Although I appreciate much or a lot of what the camera man adds to the conversation/video and overall experience, he has got to got to quit interrupting and talking over you when you’re trying to speak and especially when you’re trying to answer a question he asks. IAgain I do enjoy much of what he’s adding to the conversation. I guess what I’m saying is if someone where to ask me my advice for your channel- I’d say you’re perfect and doing a stellar awesome job but have the camera man tone it down a bit- quit interrupting and finishing sentences for you. That’s all!
Good test I shoot a whole match with my recipe 20 shots with out cleaning but have a few more ingredients. I use blue water soluble cutting fluid, simple green , hoppes # 9 and water and your correct it cleans the barrel very shot !
Watching you use the mystery juice brings up a question...would it work as well, if you Treated a bunch of patches, and let them dry, what would happen? Would they even DRY, for one. Would it perform as well, if treated beforehand and allowed to dry? Just my $.02 cents....
Yes you stated the same as I do. It not shooting without swabbing, it is swabbing for every load. Now with that being said I'm jealous! Because my old super secret formula over the years was Thompson center #13, which means I spent way too much money.
I have done it began process..I have ordered dry patch material, I got the dawn I have got to get some round ball I have to see how it performs in in-lines With Pyrodex. I am doing this for sure might need a few weeks, well prep and get my arm out of the cast, I have to know....
Jake thats pretty cool...if only you would have mixed in crisco you would have broken the space-time continuum. Plus solve all world problems with fried chicken and dawn dish soap.
Wondering how long this lube can sit in the barrel, on the powder, and still shoot. Seems like the powder would absorb moisture, becoming incombustible.
Why do you beat on the ball after it is pushed into the powder ? I notice both shooters are doing it. I know I can feel the ball, and patch of course, touch and set into the powder in my flintlock. Curios.
I learned a long time ago, "Don't underestimate the old guys", sometimes it's just BS for the fun of it and sometimes it's true but it sounds like BS. haha, Dawn dish soap for the win! Here's an example for you. I have never tried this but always wondered, "Can you really make brass shotgun shells out of .50M2 brass"? Sounds like BS. Hmmmm....... haha.
Well I'm happy to see it does not affect your accuracy I am 52 years old now and been cleaning black powders since I was nine with Dawn so it doesn't surprise me but did not know you could use it as a formula for Grease or Lube
Shenandoah Valley Black Powder Bore Cleaning Solvent and some Rooster Jacket bullet lube for my cva accura lr-x rifle so far I haven gone to the range since in Southern Commiefornia we are having Tripple digits temperatures. have you guys heard of these products & used them before?
Dawn dish soap was also the preferred means of cleaning off oily birds and animals from oil spills back in the 1970s, and I hear tell it's still at the top of the list of preferred products for this use.
I will certainly give that a try.... It makes sense when you think about it, each load swabs the bore... the detergent just makes the "spit" more effective.... Brilliant.... I reckon we could Pre-soak the patches to avoid having to use the bottle, as long as they weren't too wet. Interesting to see the few grains of unburned powder, I did wonder about that..... Brilliant!
That is definitely cool. This is a game changer I use Olds Eynsford in my Pedersoli .54 Cal. Frontier and after the third shot It's impossible to load without swabbing the barrel once or twice. If it takes a bit of Dawn and water to allow me to shoot to my hearts content, then count me in.
That’s Amazing. You could carry a flask of the stuff and hold enough in your mouth to dispense a few rounds worth. If you’re up to it.😖 I’m pretty sure that any liquid dish soap would work. Soapy water! Who’d a thunk it?
Just found your channel and enjoying your videos. By recommendation of the fellow who built my flintlocks I've been using Birchwood Caseys muzzle magic and Hoppes black powder patch lube and bore cleaner mixed 50/50 for years as a patch lube and it does exactly the same as you experienced here. Just shoot all day you are cleaning your gun as you shoot.
This combination looks like a great solution (not a pun) for extended Match shooting. I hope you will do some accuracy testing to confirm its value for this application. Bob
Jake I totally agree with the comments you have made here. I watched a fellow shooter use this patch lube method yesterday at our range and after 10 rounds he swabbed the barrel and you could hardly see any fowling. Mate I am now convinced this is a simple and effective patch lube and performs even better than the Hoppes #9 traditional black powder gun bore cleaner I use as a lube!
I am disappointed. Come on guys! In the name of science you need to start messing with the ratio! Maybe 50:50 isn’t the best - what if 25:75 was less slimy? Geez what a gyp. 😂 (Just messing with ya)
I certainly enjoy your videos and information you so graciously provide us-- BUT-- you sure have to start hanging around with a better caliber of friends and helpers... especially your cameraman and Ed McMahon wanna be. He would do well to just listen to what you have to say, and perhaps learn something rather than sounding foolish. Keep up the good work-- greatly appreciated by all us Fudds!
thanks for trying it Jake, as far as accuracy, it is as good.at 50 yds or 100 yds and groups just as good as anything else. we usually wet the patches and put them in a plastic snuff can and load from that. but spraying is fine also just soapy,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
interesting video. I've used this as well as a mixture of Simple Green and water to spray on patches. It works as advertised. I still like a more traditional waxy type lube better but if your rifle was sighted in with this mixture I see no reason why it would not work. Essentially swabbing the barrel each time you load. Now, the guy with the striped shirt working on snapping his flint on a hot (loaded) rifle was making me really nervous the way the muzzle was flagging around and how it was pointed back away from the line. I was hoping it would not go bang back there at the tailgate.
Ok, so now you’ve got me thinking. You could try and put a small amount of Paper Hornet nest material on top of the powder charge to protect it from the moisture. Sam Fadala talks about using that to protect patches in his black powder book from the 80’s. It’s really good, and I highly recommend it. Also, I’m wondering if you spray the patches ahead of time and let dry, if you’d get the same results.
Soft soap maybe plus a little FuFu-Juice (water) should work, too. It is not liquid, more like grease. Hand cream with water content was recommendet in old books. It is more skin friendly.
Hey its got to be one of the best products ever, they even use it to clean ducks after oil spills. One thing though it will get stringy slimy if it sits too long.
