Fudd's and Safety Rangers beware!!!! I hunt coyotes and do black powder stuff. Muzzleloaders, Flintlocks, cap and ball pistols, black powder cartridge and cowboy guns. Keep your powder dry
i got a 1851 navy by peitta to cut my teeth on got a inline muzzleloader by cva and then a 1858 remmy by uberti i also pour my own conicals for my revovlers and rifle bc of you im about to get a stainless flintlock and a i have a london model by peitta 1851 showing up tomorrow ill play the man with no name revolvers with the Jeramiah Johansson rifle
I’ve had that argument numerous times. Real black powder is what you need for a flintlock. Substitutes just don’t work well. Thank you for spreading the word my dude
70% hardwood (oak, maple)- It contains short fibers, which give the paper softness.30% softwood (Douglas fir, Southern pine)- It contains long fibers, which provide the paper strength.Chemicals- They are necessary for the extraction of the wood into the fibers, which are usable for industrial production.Bleaches- Virgin-paper manufacturers use chlorine dioxide (chlorine-based bleaches). Recycled-paper producers use ozone, oxygen, peroxide, or sodium hydroxide for whitening the paper.Water- It soaks the mixture and connects all the ingredients. toilet paper ingredients Hidden IngredientsUnfortunately, except for primary ingredients, toilet paper almost always contains chemicals highly harmful for both the environment and our health.Bleach derivatives - These chemicals show which type of the process of bleaching is used during toilet paper production.Processed chlorine-free (PCF)- It indicates that the manufacturer doesn’t use bleach during toilet paper production. However, it doesn’t exclude its previous usage on the paper fibers.Elemental chlorine-free (ECF)- It shows that the manufacturer uses chlorine dioxide instead of straight-up elemental chlorine (it has been forbidden since 2001 since containing high levels of cancer-causing dioxins)Formaldehyde - It is well-known as a cancer-causer, but it irritates skin and mucous membranes, as well. In 2010, the results of a scientific study confirmed that this compound causes vulva’s chronic irritation in a high percentage.Some manufacturers use formaldehyde to improve the strength of toilet paper and paper towels when becoming wet.Petroleum-based mineral oil - There is no scientific evidence about the harmfulness of fragrant toilet paper, but you should be careful while using it. You can find some complaints on the Net about the usage of toilet paper soaked in oil containing vitamin E and aloe.Bisphenol A (BPA) - The story about recycling sounds excellent, but it is not perfect at all because of this chemical. Some environmental-friendly manufacturers use this compound while producing recycled toilet paper. BPA is necessary during processing leftover pieces of paper from the printing industry.The ugly part is that it disrupts the human endocrine system and can cause early puberty, metabolic disorders, and even cancer. On average, paper products, including toilet paper, account for 2% of the total amount of BPA that we bring into our bodies daily.
Now lets mix balsa and the good paperpulb product and ball mill all for 72h - lets see which mix will break Swiss BP finally in all metrics. The rest is then for the paper punchers to try.
I tried mixing good black powder with pulverone, which is about half the density of regular black powder and useless for cap and ball - but I was low on bp and had no use for the pulverone (which is a simple to make black powder used in some fireworks). By volume the mix was maybe 20% good powder. Surprisingly, the pulverone upon mixing became good enough to use - not good, but good enough to plink with. I think that what is going on is the good powder is acting as an igniter and booster for the bad powder and the speed of ignition and burning of the bad powder goes way up, which gives better than expected results. I think the improvement will be more pronounced in rifles. Anyway, what I found is you do not need 50% good powder to get a usable improvement, you can get by on quite a bit less than that. Pulverone powder on its own is completely unusable in cap and ball revolvers but can be used in a pinch in rifles or muskets if you at least double the volume of the charge.
there are many configurations of a 45 lc round. but if you were limited to only one type of round for a 45. all purpose from plinking to a backup gun dangerous game . but after all of your trials. in a ruger blackhawk. what s the "ultimate" round overall off the shelf
I accidently bought the wrong type of stump remover, It contains 100% sodium metabisulfite. Do you know if this still work as an oxidizer for some black powder?
How about utilizing a dry patch as well. You know! Putting in the powder putting in a dry patch, then putting your patch and round ball that has the new concoction on it.
@@Everythingblackpowder Hey. Thanks for a speedy response. I've been watching through your playlist for making black powder. And I'm not up to diving into that yet. But. I have recently purchased the Kibler's SMR kit. My only experience with black powder is in cap and ball revolvers and years ago I had a 54 Cal percussion Thompson Center in which I used FFFg. What would you use? I gather from your videos that you prefer Swiss. But I am not sure which. So I see Swiss is available for purchase. But what grade? And I like how you use the same in the chamber as in the flash pan. That's news to me.
Have you tried loading a plastic shot cup without a nitro card?…just like a smokeless load? I loaded a couple try the other day. Cut down my hulls a little short and didn’t have the extra room in the hull. I cut down a BPI Tuff wad to 1.458”. Its the shortest I could make them for a 1 5/8oz payload. Only other cups I have are the SP10 wads and I figured cutting off the bottoms even would be be challenge and the cup pacity won't fit a 1 5/8 oz load without filling over. I had just enough room for a 100 grains of powder and my plastic shot cup sitting over the top of the charge. I’m sure I probably could’ve squeezed a cardboard OS card over the powder charge but figured I’ve been shooting black powder in my muzzleloading rifles for decades with nothing but a charge in a plastic sabot with zero plastic meting issues. I’ll probably grab a couple of extra holes and cut them longer so I can add a half inch nitro card between my powder charge and shot cup, and compare the groups?
when i was a kid you could go into the drug store and buy pure Sulphur and saltpeter. i made some black powder using a formula from an old chemistry book i had. i used charcoal brickettes for the carbon and the formula was 3 parts carbon, 2 parts saltpeter, 1 part sulphur as i remember it, maybe it was 3 parts saltpeter and 2 parts carbon, ( this was 60 years ago). anyway i ground it up in a small mortar and pestle and made fire crackers and one "bomb" from an empty co2 canister from a pellet gun. this stuff probably was not "sporting" quality but it was sure loud when it went off. that bomb sounded like a hand grenade. if my mother knew what i was doing she would have had a fit.
Hi, you guys are real close to figuring this out. Pretty bold of me right? I began making home brew in the 70’s. Your channel is the only one I’ve come across that follows the scientific method…weather you know it or not. I’m a scientist btw. Metallurgist to be exact. I teach at a college in Idaho. Anyhoo…a few years ago, when the internet was relatively new, Brush Hippy had a channel on RU-vid when it was new. He came close to what I figured out in the mid nineties. He never made the final connection to making the mythical moist burning powder . It’s not a myth by the way. You guys are closer than you know. Your on the right track! Don’t let the fireworks guys knock you off course. Those guys couldn’t make rifle grade powder to save their collective ass’. Increased mill time, as you know now, defiantly improves mediocre powder. I have reams of note books over a 30 year period detailing my research. I don’t want to ruin the journey for you and your brother, but I think you guys are worth sharing info with. Ian Von Maltitz wrote Black Powder Manufacturing & Optimizing. He did an incredible amount of charcoal experiments with different woods. American plum and Paulownia won the fastest BP awards. Crack willow is right in there too. It’s about the ash, you see. Any substance with a low ash content is a candidate for superior rifle grade powder. Another publication to look into is Perils in the Powder Mills; Gunpowder and it’s Men by Anne Kelly Lane. Specifically look at Chauncey J Olds. I think y’all will find him interesting. There are other things you’ve yet to discover, but this post is too long already and I gotta hit the sack. Love watching you discover. Takes me back to my journey with fond memories. Keep seeking!!
Not enough people question what they are told and we as society lose out on new information. I personally have always tried the opposite of what I am told I should do just to see why.
Is this pressure created by the weight that the power need to move or is it created by the lenght of the projectile and the friction it gets to squeeze it trough the lands and groves? If u would size the bullet back to .450 or .448 so it has less contact with the lands and groves of the barrel would the primer flattening look diffent? i know its been a year old now but i really wonder......What caused these pressures.......Weight or projectile lenght or combination...
Ive been subscribed for over a year now though ill admit i haven't watched every video you've put out in that time frame. I recall a video on the whole process yall go threw on making the powder but cant find it. Can anyone point me in the right direction to that said video? Im getting terrible inconsistentant accuracy and velocities. I mill for 24 hours and all but cant figure out what im missing so i want to go back and review the process to fix my errors.
There are two main causes for bad accuracy and inconsistent velocities. You aren’t sorting your powder well enough or the density is not uniform from granule to granule. In other words. If you have a mix of both 2F and 3F in the same charge you will have uneven burn rates and same with the density. Here’s the video. How To Make The Absolute BEST Black Powder (For Firearms) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PJDjKvjqvpM.html
You can't prime with 1F. I heard from an internet source that if you prime with 1f it's going to look like the scene from Davy Crockett and the river pirates where you have a slow burning match effect that lasts 10 minutes before the gun goes off😂😂😂
