Probably someone already suggested this but you can cast it in a epoxy resin. It will be challenging but I'm sure in the end, you will have a relic from an ancient alien civilization.
great idea! i'd carefully airbrush them some cool metallic color before! the matte black makes details and crevices way hard to see. but those structures might be quite a challenge to encase bubble free, without a vacuum chamber.
My thoughts as well. Start by preparing a base of thickly layered acrylic, allowed to fully dry in advance. Add one more coat and allow it dry just briefly so you have a tacky surface to begin with. That way the ferro paint will adhere quite well to the acrylic base. For resin, I think you could brush on numerous coats of clear acrylic to fill fine gaps and delicate texture, prior to encasing in resin.
I like the spikes of ferrofluid. But I also love the ridges in this paint. They form patterns that look like roses or carnations. To me, this paint is just as beautiful. I'm sorry you had a messy clean-up.
Guess we have the same sense of humour? I laughed way too hard at it myself x) It was just one of those long 10 hours editing days where the 'slide shows' at the end felt too serious and repetitive for me. Decided to break it up and entertain myself (and hopefully my viewers too) with that gimmick. Thanks for watching!
Must admit I did not expect it to be this close to ferripaste... What I really want the most, is to make it more glossy. It is a quite matte when dried. I guess high gloss UV resin would fix it? Thanks for the early watch and comment as always!
@@brainiac75 a quick search shows that UV resin is available in viscosity down to as thin as water. You could dip it then hit it with UV to create a protective shell. Depending on the formulation, maybe one of those would give the gloss finish?
Did not think the paint would work this well. I got carried away and made my longest video yet... For video, it is too matte though. Looks better in reality. I may need to invest in a camera with higher dynamic range and HDR capabilities :D Thanks for the early watch and comment!
@@brainiac75Putting a black fluid in a white container may have made the camera "stop down" to reduce the white, which starved the black for exposure. A deep blue or strong red background might show off the black better? (Is what I was thinking before I got to the Comments section. I hesitate to mention this to such a pro, though!) Thanks for the Art + Science today.
I think it'd be a great idea to experiment with a wide range of values for the parameters like distance, layer thickness (volume of the paint you're pouring) and water ratio. I also think it'd be interesting to see if it can be airbrushed for example on scale model kits
You tried adding water, but to make particulate mixes thinner without changing their concentration, you want to make them slippery - this is why surfactants, basically soap, are used as plasticizers in concrete. Maybe add a few drops of Dawn or other highly concentrated liquid soap, and see how that goes?
paint a wall with it and test the sound proofing properties of the spikes, due to the shape of them they should provide some pretty efficient sound proofing.
This is much better than regular ferrofluid because it's much more viscous and shows a much higher definition shape of what the magnetic field looks like.
Ferrofluid is kind of a one-trick fluid with the same pattern over and over. But what a trick it is ;) With that said, I found the magnetic paint to be much better than I expected. Just need to gloss it up for better visuals! Thanks for the early watch and comment as always, Aaron.
I nearly posted this on your older video, but glad I continued the binge. For thinning duty, easy-access surfactants can be had under several everyday products. While ordinary dish soap works to a degree, what you're really after are tannins. Green tea has a relatively high concentration of tannins, though they're quite easy to buy in bulk as its own product. This is also the 'secret' ingredient that keeps clay particles in suspension if you've ever had a play with glazes. Your carrier can be an effective solvent (can make recommendations depending on your locale; in the US, acetone and MEK substitutes like xylene are easy to acquire), IPA or even the universal solvent, distilled water. Basically the purer the better to avoid mineral contamination. Ferrofluid works as it does as the ferromagnetic material is broken down to nanometer particle size, often in its carrier of choice during the same reducing process. You can add your mixture into a glass jar in an ultrasonic cleaner for a few cycles and enhance functionality, or if you have a sufficiently powerful blender for Science duty. It will need quite a lot of shearing time to get break down into the finest concentration (90 minutes would be my starting recommendation, but most blenders are not rated for that kind of duty cycle, even the commercial ones. I have a graveyard of sacrificial blenders including a 1500 watt commercial rig).
The paint could be great for dioramas. Or some sort of tapletop map. Imagine you have a part of the map that belongs to a villain. If you made a bunch of those sculptures and squared them off, they could make great terrain pieces
Our clothes dryer recently died and I took it apart and found a good 300g of ultra fine iron dust inside. I immediately thought of this channel when I found it. The dryer had been grinding it’s parts for years.
Good idea, though in my experience a bare magnet at some distance has the most interesting effect on ferrofluid. Will consider a video, where I use electromagnets, inductor coils etc. on ferrofluid. Should be possible to make some interesting patterns with a bit of creativity. Thanks for watching and the suggestion!
Some ideas for you: 1. Explain how the levitron spinning top works. 2. Try different form of magnetic bearings - active and passive kinds 3. With small magnets the can lift themselves up in a glass dish with ferrofluid, can your larger magnet lift itself too? Is the high of lift Higher or lower and does the ratio to gauss to size matter? 4. If the large magnet can lift itself how much can it hold compared to the smaller magnets by pounds/kilo to gauss. 5. Can you get on the magnet and take a spin on ferrofluid?
That stuff is amazing! I think I am actually inspired to art after years! Thanks s much! You could probably add other arcylic mediums, for different textures, or shapes. And would make more damage resistant structures, because I assume it is very fragile when dry. Huh... would look very interesting to mix a some of that 'Black 3.0" acrylic paint (it's pretty much vantablack). Have yet to get that paint myself... ugh... Would make amazing depth or no depth! I can't imagine that space scenes I could create! wow!
If you used a plastic box, put some of the paint inside above the magnet and allowed it to form the spikes then slowly and carefully flooded the box with clear resin I wonder if you could permanently encapsulate the spikes
This is genuinely interesting. What practical purpose would magnetic paint have for it to be commonly sold? Though, I'm surprised at how close it is to Ferripaste. Great video as always--and not what I expected. A follow-up to this would be quite interesting, to see what you'd do with the sculptures.
It's used for making magnet boards so you can hang things up with magnets like a fridge. You can also use it with chalkboard paint to make magnetic chalk boards.
Very fascinating process! It's always enjoyable to follow along with a trial-and-error process, it scratches the inquisitive itch. I must say, I really enjoy the visual interest of the blades that the paint formed (possibly more than the Ferro fluid spikes) as they all seemed to form into something truly unique every time. Very interesting!
7 месяцев назад
Very cool! I would try to pour a small quantity first and let it cure for a while, but not fully. Then put it on the magnet and pour some more paint on it. Hopefully this will create a solid base.
to give your sculpture a solid bottom layer you could make a bit of a rim, pour in some normal black acrylic first, then the magnet paint. that should give you a disk for the spikes to sit on.
hmm, using the paint on glass and spray painting a protective top coat, maybe a automotive primer, could make a sturdy enough desk piece, you could also make color transitions or add texture to the final work ...or casting as a paper weight?
Since it's an acrylic paint, cleanup should be much easier if you play with it in a silicone or silicone coated container. Once it dries flexing the container should make it delaminate. My only concern is that maybe the iron particles would tear up the silicone coating.
With the cracks in the base of the ferropaint, I'm thinking it'd be interesting to put some multicolor LEDS under it in a box/stand and then a glass cover.
Mix starch, water and iron powder in a solution. Put a magnet and a subwoofer under the mixture. The agitation from the sound will create shapes and the magnet will organize the shapes
I think the paint looks great, I think it would be interesting to put a coil of very small LED on the plate and let the paint dry. Some light would be buried, but there might be some good light to accent the depth.
I think you might be able to fluidize the gritty magnetic pigment by vibrating the paint above the magnet. Have you any sort of vibrator to make the spacer board hum, while the spikes are forming? Some possibilities: An aquarium air pump, hair clippers, a saber saw (without blade), a small DC motor with an off center weight (like those that make a phone vibrate). Adding a thin foam layer between board and magnet would let the board vibrate more easily.
It would be nice to have the option to use different colors. I expect you couldn't make the paint itself lighter due to the iron powder. But perhaps it would be possible to apply a coat of color to it. Also I'm not sure if that should be applied before or after the magnetic paint has fully cured for the best results. Either way, without first applying a lighter base coat, I'm not sure if you could get vivid colors anyway. And thicker or more layers will probably hide a lot of the finer details. I wonder if it would be possible to coat the spikes with a UV-A reactive substance. Or perhaps even better, mix it into the magnetic paint right from the start. That way you're not dependent on a color "overcoming" the black paint in order to give it a very vivid appearance. As an added bonus, it could also help to bring out all the details.
Hi Brainiac! I came across some internet sources stating that 365 nm light can eliminate fungi and eradicate certain pathogens, such as bacteria. I find this information quite intriguing, considering that 365 nm falls within the UVA range, which is relatively weak. It would be great if you could create a video experimentally testing this phenomenon using a 365 nm black light. Thank you!
Get a silicone mat, spread a thin layer of epoxy, then add the paint while the epoxy is still wet Maybe there should be a ferro epoxy, the iron being mixed into just one part of it I also wonder if another magnet held above could make spikes higher
It seems you are not a big on cooking :) There are amazing silicone spatulas, with you could quickly and effectively scrape off the paint from any flat surface, or slightly curved even.
each one of your patreons will get their own plastic sheet with some dried up spikes. 10:57 thats wicked, and it incl. all tiers. Just make sure you package it well.
Hmm, maybe it could work. Or put it under a magnet where gravity could help pull the spikes a little longer? Thanks for the suggestion and watching my video, Kevin :)
I would like to see this as well but not for longer spikes but if more spikes in general will grow. I just think if you create a ton of spikes and blades the material will become more black from light absorption and probably make a good laser dump.
Try encapsulating the feropaint "art" in epoxy before removing it. Actually... might be interesting to see how that would work with the ferofluid and feropaste too.
For the "shelf life" issue - (not personally verified by me) --> If you store the jar of paint (Applies to water-based paints as well asoil-based) - if you store the container _submerged_ under water, the volatiles and water cannot escape, and the paint stays good. Has anyone else tried this?
There is a saying in Finnish which also a great warning of fire hazards: Tuli on hyvä renki mutta huono isäntä. Which translates to: Fire is a good farmhand/hired hand but a bad master/farm owner So the teaching of the saying is, keep your fires under control people.
Assuming they're resilient enough and don't break down over time I bet you could use it to make some sound treatment panels (like those black edged ones made of foam that people use).
I like how you were able to get thin spikes. If you did it on a thin piece of silicone rubber mat or similar thin silicone rubber and poured regular acrylic black paint or black coloured uv resin around and worked it through the base of the sculpture you may be able to remove it ?
I suspect that the paint contains magnetite powder (considering the color) or some other magnetic iron compound and not pure iron. The Falu Rödfärg contains iron as one of the main ingredients, but I suspect that the red variant isn't magnetic. The black variant might be.
