As a CNC maintenance engineer: you used the wrong coupling. Those spider couplings are designed for use with things like pumps and have flex in them to help absorb shocks and vibrations, thus are terrible for CNC axis drive. For attaching a servo onto a shaft like that you would generally either just key it straight to the shaft without any coupling as such or put some kind of torque limiting "clutch" in the middle that will slip if you crash the machine. (kinda what a key does anyway if you choose the right size key) You could probably use a suitably strong version of one of those accordion type couplings as they don't have any rotational flex like the spider couplings do but there isn't really any point when the motor and shaft are concentric and solidly mounted, they are designed for mitigating slightly misaligned shafts which you shouldn't have. Hope that helps :D
Let me just say that I truly appreciate you taking the high road in this “sex sells” world. That Abom guy is always showing uncensored shafts entering bores, and don’t get me started on that AvE fella!
there was also something about a long screw and some balls and thrust and some other stuff, I didn't catch it all, I got distracted as soon as he said he's taking advantage of a "big gapping chasm"
Well, truth be told, he also implied that the Z-axis belt-heat opportunity is not due to tension, size, or alignment, but LOAD. Typical CNCstar, bragging about the size of the lo.....
I love how defensive he gets when he's using metric, like his American community gonna make him an outcast. Don't worry Tony, 34/52nds of the world are still here to love ur vids
You always thank us for watchin’, Well thank you TOT for taking the time! You make the world a better place, keep doing what you love, and we’ll keep watchin’!!
From being an engineer myself, who usually never chooses to take the: "let's buy an off-the-shelf kit route", but rather face the unknown and learn from the mistakes. I really understand the technical complexities that Tony is facing sometimes. But still, he's always presenting his videos in an "of- the-shelf kit way": Well documented, easy to understand and most important really funny! Great job Tony keep it going :)
@@9HighFlyer9 for me it's technically been over for months but my stupid college is going to be all online INCLUDING LABS. I had to drop chem because of this crap. My church is also closed untill the new year. There are just to many sheep in this world.
I learned a new term in here a few months ago in a discussion about those edits. They're called "smash cuts". Who knew? While you're reading about them and other edits, be sure to read about "Gilligan cuts". Again, who kn.../
I like that tony makes me feel like I could figure this out by following along. We both know that’s not true, but at least I feel good about it. Love the videos.
IMHO you're much more susceptible to gluon migration at relativistic rapids: especially since you'll have a probalistic Piper to pay given your odds-defying indicator behavior.
Ok i feel like i am getting wooshed rn. And ik nothing about CNC l. but isn't this a classic TOT joke? Because in reality shouldn't Relativistic effects be negligible at this scale? Or do they need to be taken into account?
Always in sub-warp speed, there's no going around it. Just like you still have to worry about centrifugal force when using your Don't you just love This Old Tony's editing style?
Too bad it'll be outdated what with 3d metal printing. Well, Ave still needs something to beef about. Maybe you can do sintered metal products instead?
@@johnpossum556 Buddy I just used DMLS for a capstone project. 3d printing will suppliment general subtractive manufacturing but never replace it. The cost of metal 3d printing is a whole magnitude or 2 more than standard machining.
John Possum I’ve never heard of a plastic radiator I don’t know if that transfers heat as good as metal but plastic parts for radiators yeah that I’ve seen
i just had a pretty rough day, sitting here and freaking out over rubbish. but after watching your video i feel so much better. thank you Tony, you never fail to brighten my day, id be lost without you and people like you.
Also flexing is that set of 4 stand-offs.....when you dispose of the spider-y thing your motor can come much closer to the bed BUT this time use a fat cylindrical collar with 4 through-holes drilled as a single, un-twistable stand-off ring !!
I feel like you have the most serious humor on all of youtube. You seem to always pretend your jokes don't exist... And I freaking love your channel! It is just the right mix between knowing, trying, learning and wtflolxD
The name for that spider coupling is "Lovejoy coupling" or, (more commonly) "spider coupling" and as someone else probably said, they are better used in places where you've got a jiggly or throbby shaft that needs to have some dampening in it. Great video, Tony!
It's the wrong coupling. They're perfect for adding that special, hard to describe, "corrugated" finish to parts, and some people like their parts to be distinctive.
@@mreese8764 random sharpie marks where holes are not drilled in - i.e. there already a bunch of holes and more holes would be ridiculous, or more simply holes that have lost their potential for holiness.
I've been watching your channel for a long time. Seen damn near every episode at least once. And I could tell you were VERY excited to show off how you got the x-axis working. ;) Keep up the good work Tony.
as a maker and youtuber my self. i want to say that these videos are great. you are a wonderful mix of teaching and comedy. you know just how far to push you one liners. Keep making great videos.
Dont forget you're using roller (not ground) ballscrew: rolled ones always have some backlash. Also it's most likely C7 class, so it has inaccuracy of 0,05mm for 300mm travel. I would recomend you to buy a used ground ballscrew made by some proper manufacturer like NSK, THK, etc. You can find them on ebay for $100-300. Sorry for my english :D You ask me anything about ballscrews or linear guides, if you wanna know more.
@@goodfis624 I paid 70€ for the rolled ones 20mm thick (aliexpress), the ground ones would have cost 200€ (with the double anti-backlash nut). Sure, not terribly expensive depending on the machine one builds, but the rolled ones turned out to be very accurate.
@@ChristophPech double nut isnt necessary for preload. Oversized balls in usual nut work well enough. Also I doubt ballscrew from aliexpress is any good, I've seen them a lot. It will wear out in a matter of months. Rolled ballscrews from TBI or HIWIN are decent, but noname crap from aliexpress are not. You can check this shop on ebay for used ballscrews: www.ebay.com/str/industrialpartsshop/Ground-Ball-Screw/_i.html?_storecat=4322381011 I can say that a used ballscrew from NSK or THK is by far better than new from TBI or HIWIN.
First, I love your videos and your skills and envy your ability to make time to be in your shop and do what you do! Awesome! Backlash Test: The servo encoder expects the load to be rigidly attached to the shaft for the feedback to mean anything regarding position of load. You are correct Sir! That coupler has play from the rubber compression so the encoder cannot do its job properly. Looking forward to 1) coupler fix, 2) a nice dust cover on that exposed bearing - you know you were already thinking it :-) , and 3) the Y-axis challenge that you invariably overcome with brilliance mere mortals could only hope to have. Thank you for another excellent video TOT!
Hey there ToT, I just want to ask if you ever use locking washers on the parts that you bolt down. I always add them when I bolt something down, but is it redundant since I rarely see you using them?
Tony. Did you ever consider putting glass scales on the axes to get position feedback rather than on the servos? Any thoughts on that route? Is it just a price thing?
OK, at 3:04 you start drilling a hole pattern in your bushing. How did you know what that hole pattern needed to be? Did you measure it in place some how, or is there a trick somewhere in the process?
Thank you , This Old. I fully understand everything you say. Apart from points 1 and 3. All else is golden, as always, and thank you, again, for brightening my day.
Old Tony, you're a hoot you even entered into the dark side with your slow sliding shaft insertion............outstanding !! ............. I'm still laughing !!
I work on a CNC-mill with 4 meters of X-travel and it uses two servomotors coupled together to move the X-axis with this type of coupling. Although they probably electronically compensate for the slack when switching directions.
This is my new favorite channel. He spends more time making tools to work on the project than he spends on working on the original project. Just like I do. Then the tool sits until I have to modify it for the next project and spend more time modifying it than the time on both projects put together.
for the end cap where the ball screw is poking out slightly, could you add in a hand wheel or would there be limited space once everything gets reassembled?
I'm not a machinist or anything like that... the most advanced tool I have is a power saw... but I love your videos! Humor is perfect! Thanks Old Tony!
Think I'm going to start a Famous Quote page just for TOT. Busted me up with 3 in this video! Luckily I had already finished my espresso. It's a coin toss as to coupling per the community below especially not knowing the quality of your ball screw and not being dialed in. Personally I'd go direct but a crash becomes more difficult ($$) to overcome. You may have something in your controller code to work with¿ But hey, with your time machine you could change the past. Either way tuning is always somewhat of a black art on something of that mass, at least relativistically in a scalar world, always remembering who won the race. Mighty fine build and Video Mr. T! You may be right about the final axis, yet I have great confidence and sure you'll use plenty of lube. Hat Tip!
Hey tony, Great work! Are you worried about the standoffs flexing at all? Cause I’m worried about them flexing. Also you do a cnc ballscrew conversion and you put a rubber coupler in it!? Those are for 90’s era katana motorcycle sprockets not cnc! Anyhow good job and I’m waiting to see the last axis moving (under its own power that is!)
One wonder what is the thinnest "Ball Screw" available of the shelf!! last year I purchase two of them for a "gear cutting only machine" and the smallest diameter was like 9/16.... Any way I do love the videos from This Old Tony... great work and great editing..
Hey Tony, what brand are your motors and your ethercad system? I am looking to get exact same ones. Also, do they support backlash elimination in the software?
@@ThisOldTony Thanks for quick reply! Been watching your conversion videos for most of the today. I am a noobie to machining. Watching your TIG series made me buy TIG welder, now this... Please stop making videos. My bank account can't keep up. Also, my constant giggles starting to piss off my significant other.
Got a question you did a video a while ago on vortex tubes. Ive got a design for one thats kind of extreme but dont have the equipment to build it. Any interest and how would I get a design to you If you are interested
When I watch your videos I always have a picture of Ray Romano of everybody loves Raymond in my head, on the other hand my wife says it's Manny from Ice age (same actor). Great work. Have an awesome weekend.
Thanks Tony! Once again your video is a perfect mix of well presented info and perfectly timed jokes. Even if it is info I wasn't looking for and jokes I don't get sometimes 😂🤔, always, always I am thoroughly entertained.
Hey Tony. About those motor couplers: the 'accordion' type you described are different to the ones you used in here. The accordions are designed to be flexible in bending and in tension/compression, but stiff in rotation. The current one isn't stiff in rotation at all due to the loaded rubber part. Most likely that one is designed for stiffness in compression and tension. Since the that linear motion is already constrained by your bearing. You only need torsion stiffness to avoid (load-dependant) errors. So that's why your errors are so large indeed. Just thought I'd put my engineering skills to good use for a change... lastly, I have really been enjoying all of your videos. Keep it up!
I am doing particularly well Tony, thank you for taking the time to ask, not all my subscribed channels take time to enquire about my well being. It is appreciated. 😏 I’m loving this series.
If you add an intermediate plate before the motors, you can then equip them with anti vibration brackets. This seriously cuts the noise the machine makes. On my CNC,it went from a whine orchestra, to an electric motor solo in HP vibratos. It's actually really nice, worth the effort.
honestly, when you were playing with the y axis for "next time" i was fully expecting an explosion after tapping the controller like joker did in batman blowing up a hospital in the nurses outfit. i feel let down but not really. love you tot
Our DOOSAN cnc vmcs use the spider style of connector on the Z axis to connect the spindle motor. It uses a high durometer polyurethane bushing to prevent backlash.
My eyes sort of glaze over when geek speak starts. Looks good to me. I remember when 0.003-4 was a close home shop tolerance, oh wait, that was over 5 decades ago, back in the 20th Century. Hoping you get your servos, and captured ball nuts (is that redundant) all worked out. Keep tweaking the bushes and nuts. I have faith you will suckseeds. Goodnight TOT wherever you are.
@This Old Tony How many horsepower is your lathe i was just wondering because i'm just getting into it and wanted to compare lathes so if you could point me in the direction of a video of yours about you lathe like its size and all that.
