Major carnage in Death Valley!!! Repairing the Suburban in the middle of nowhere!!! 

Thanks man!

This was a fun one

there wasn't much rock crawling. At least not enough where I think that could have affected it. They were just loose because I am an idiot!

@@MerricksGarage I'm pretty sure I've broken some things due to that same reason.

Yea watch the entire video. Ha ha

They have changed the way I pack and store gear

What spare tire mount? It’s on the bed inside ha ha

@@MerricksGarage Thats not a mount, its "storage"

Thanks for the kind words man. Glad you are digging it. Sounds like it’s time for you to get back to wheeling!

Yea I need to source something. I’ve known for a while it would be a useful tool but super glad my buddy had one this past trip!

Premier power welders might be an awesome buy for the Burn.

This was my issue for not having my u bolts tight enough.

Not a terrible idea. These have about 2” less backspacing than my blazer

You could gain that with some different rims, that have a different offset.

just a little!

Eduard G it’s a lifted suburban!! Most trucks when lifted the new spring centers are not corrected causing the tire to be out of center!! You can fix it with a 1” thick offset block!! You can then bolt the block to the leaf spring pack in several different ways!! A 1” off set or a 1”1/2” off set!!! I’m sure they make other ones besides those two different off sets but those are the most common ones used!!! The higher you go the more it will throw it off of center!!! Most people don’t use them until over an 8” lift kit and then people Realize that the axel has shifted to close to body panels!!

I also moved it backwards on purpose but will most likely switch it back to get it more centered.

Kinda but also what makes these trips memorable.

Nah it happened going from Lancaster to Mojave

Kinda seems like you have a bone to pick with ORD…. Just sayin 🤷🏼‍♂️

@@MerricksGarage agreed .

@@MerricksGarage some of there parts are good I'm still using them .I just will never order from them never again . I had better luck from diy4x if there's a issues Kurt calls me when building my parts so they fit . he just did that to confirm my hydro assistance set up measurements. Almost the same set up as your blazer when it had leafs.

You mean….Turd Ferguson

Never mind. Found online to buy 🤦🏻‍♂️

yea, adventure isn't adventure without a little drama!

I should delete this after watching more but oh well 😅😅😅

ha ha

It's just from not tightening down the U-bolts enough. The pins are just locators. They are not there to be a structural part. haha

@@calholli if you really believe that you can .but I also had just a pin of there's snap from just being grade A garbage

@@liftedburblife You could just as easily run them without the pin if you tighten them down hard enough. The only way the pin can shear is because you have your U-bolts so loose that they are allowing it to shift and move. You're supposed to tighten those U-bolts SOOO tight that it stretches them, and you're actually not supposed to use them again after they've been removed. They are not bent into a perfect shape, you have to stretch them to form around your axle. For example, those 3/4 Grade 8 U-bolts that he is using, have a torque spec of 234 ft lbs... and you're supposed to retighten them fairly soon after driving on them, when you first install or re-install them-- because they stretch even more and settle into position, so you have to re-snug them back down to the pre-stretch spec. It's very similar to Head bolts. They are supposed to be so over-tightened that they pre-stretch and act as a spring-- constantly pulling tension so that the two parts basically become one piece--- just like a head bolted to the block. You don't want it to have ANY GIVE at all, or any movement. In this very video, you can see him tighten them with a dinky little electric ratchet and he doesn't even give it a few more turns by hand-- It's embarrassingly loose. lol..

For example, if you've ever seen guys cut rusty U-bolts off of old axles because they can't get them to un-bolt/ so they cut them with a torch. You'll see them EXPLODE when they separate; and that's because they are under so much tension from being over tightened, that it reacts like cutting a large coil spring with tension on it. There's like an entire science to U-bolts. lol.. You can't just snug them down and walk away.

What your explaining don't change that fact that the leafs should not fall apart being new . The only thing great about the leafs are the price you pay for them .I seen cheaper leafs last longer with loose u bolts .I have made my own custom fronts using there pin and zero rate and had the same crap happened. U bolts plates were tight .I fixed it with a Allen bolt that's the same grade metal and it never happened again .I also had others say the same exact thing about there leafs . And some other parts .if your going to pay out your ass for leafs that are supposed to be by name great parts .then fall apart first Wheeling trip video says it all it shows him lossen the driver side u bolt so how loose could it actually been . I have some of there older parts that are still good .2 different sizes of flip kits and shackles and bolts 2 pairs of zero rates that all the pins were garbage that came with them some completely the wrong size and never worked .

Completely useless. Kinda like this post

@MerricksGarage 🤣 really though

No a panhard would either tear the frame or dramatically limit travel or both. A sway bar might be in the cards. Can’t run a panhard on leaf springs

@@MerricksGarage obs f-350s have panhards with leaf springs YJs have them to I think. They really help to stabilize the frontend on the road, not good for trails they limit travel a lot.

Yea. Adventure comes in many different flavors!

@@MerricksGarage We've all been there! Thanks for making so many great vids James!

Those are the safety chains for my trailer. The shackles are locked pretty tight so I just leave the chains on

Should be at at least 300k at this time.

Time to do a sema build. Rockwell axles, all wheel steer, Hd, in a 73-75 convert Blazer. Everything nicely gun painted even body no wrap. Do it for the shop and channel then sell.

I like the way you think. The subs will come.

Yea I addressed it at the end of the video

@@MerricksGarage I guess I need to start watching the videos fully all the way to the end before commenting!! But at least I was Wright!!! I’ve seen it happen before on other rigs!! Just tighten them as much as you can is what I do!! And the other important thing is to not use the nuts that have a plastic lock in the end of the nuts on the U-bolts!!! I will always and have always have a local axel shop bend them to the length I need and they will provide me with the washers that are supposed to be used with the U-bolts and the Wright taller lock nuts!! They are usually not reusable if tighten properly the first time!! And if I ever do need to change them out for some reason I will try to get them off and will usually only be able to save one U-bolt and nuts and sometimes maybe two!! So it might save a little bit of money but in the long run it’s definitely not safe to reuse U-bolts that have already been used!! If you no for some reason you might need to take the U-bolts back off day for like after mock up or something just save the taller lock nuts and then use the nuts that have the plastic in the end of the nut!! They will come back off very easily and that also might help a person understand the difference in the two different nuts!!!

Burst disc?

@@MerricksGarage yes on the valve there should be what looks like a plug. It's a over pressure regulator.

Not sure if they can lift that heavy diesel engine. I have a 7.3L F350-- Diesels are so stupid heavy. lol.. They are not very ideal for rock crawling; and especially not good in mud or sand; they just sink to the bottom. Heavy, Heavy, Heavy.. I can't stress it enough.

I always throw the tire under there were the frame is for a little extra safety 🙂

Sorry man. Buried with work and shop!