Make 300 Blackout brass easy with Lee Power Quick Trim (Look below for a newer version) 

Your videos are great and so helpful keep up the good / great work.il watch your video every time I reload as a refresher

Julian Delgado Thanks for watching, and for the kind comment. If I can be of any help, feel free to ask...If you PM me just make sure your logged into google chrome or you won't see my reply and I always reply.

if the brass is of to thick wall thickness why not first form them and then ream out the case neck/throat like i do when i do 7.62 Tokarev from 5.56x45 i get like 7.55 mm dia while i need 7.92 (a little over.311) so i ream them to 7.9mm and resize them another time - when i later crimp them then its perfect if i dont it is^still good enough for repeating but nt automatic weapons so im still close to the perfect dia

I am quite late to the party here but this video is excellent. I do have a question, a friend of mine mentioned that vaseline worked great for lube on the resizing part and I am still conflicted about that. What is your take on that?

@@gabrielalejandroverapinto9984 it's cheap and if you mix it with a little rubbing alcohol it covers a lot of cases. I would watch out for to much lube around the shoulder so you don't get dent from sizing then clean them afterwards.

What a great comment, thanks! If if you try this and need help, let me know.

That's great! I still use it just like this.

Glad you got some use out of it. There is a newer version on the channel.

Nice! 300blk is a great DIY cartridge from the ground up. Hope you find something here you can use.

Thanks Brian, I hope if you try it, it serves you well...Good luck, let me know if I can help.

Hi Willie, there are a few chambers out there that are on the smallish side and the Lee die just doesnt get it there. Some guys do initial forming with the RCBS then they can use the Lee on subsequent reloads. Minimal resizing is always best for accuracy. I have taken to just doing a shoulder bump back on reloads. Im guessing with your snug chamber you probably cant push max loads very hard?

FYI theres a newer updated video on this topic

I have an updated version that addresses this. I have found better accuracy with de burring.

Hornady lube is good stuff.

Hope you get some use out of it...thanks for watching

Your correct, up until you seat a bullet. After you come out of the sizer you will probably be in spec. BUT, when you seat a .308 bullet and your neck wall is .014" the neck of the case will expand to accommodate the .308" bullet making the finished neck diameter a total of .308" + .014" +.014" for a total of .336" The chamber spec in the neck is .335" now you have a crush fit. This will change the neck tension on the bullet and depending on your load, push a normally safe load into unsafe pressure levels. All of this depends on how close to spec your particular chamber ends up after reaming.

Thank you!

I have an updated version on the channel you might like. Has some refinements in it.

Thanks, if you try it just keep your trim length close and it works magic. Also, thanks for the sub...subbed you're channel too.

No problem, I enjoy making 300 brass and seeing other people's techniques

He don't do business that don't make him smile. :-)

You make them yourself.

A forming die is literally a die or set of dies sometimes used in stages to convert a cartridge parent case to a new cartridge. This is pretty common because many cartridges are designed using an already existing cartridge. They usually are a little more exaggerated than a full length sizing die in which ever way you are changing the case because brass will want to spring back. The blackout gets by ok with forming dies most of the time because we are not making radical changes to the case in terms of stretching it or compressing it. The Lee dies do not intend to push the brass all the way down to its minimum spec since this is not ideal for accuracy. All chambers have a tolerance, if a person has a chamber that is cut near the minimum, some people, not very many, have had trouble with brass formed in a Lee FL sizing die. This has lead to an unwarranted bad rap for the lee die. Thats why I emphasized it in the videos. I have an updated version of this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BPhlzBULoWI.html

For making blackout brass? Probably a single stage but either will work. If your talking about reloading, I like them both. I tend to load rifle on the single stage but I have failed to prove there is an advantage in quality. One area an O frame press is nice is when you are controlling shoulder setback or bump. A good single stage can make this a little more consistent.

Ok this might actually be easy. I am not familiar with any of the cartridges but I did a little digging. 356 win is based on .307 cartridge. 307 win brass is still available. But one step further and 307 win brass is based on the .308 cartridge and the 308 and 356 win have the same brass length 2.015". I would explore converting 308 win to 356 win. It would be just a matter of expanding the neck of a 308 case and your good. The only down side I can see is if the brass neck wall was too thin? If you send Lee fired cases they will make you a custom quick trim die for your 356 win. Hope this helps

I dont anneal, some do, some dont. Unless you have a machine to do it uniformly, its probably not very useful. If I had a machine I would anneal before forming. With 300 black primer pockets get loose before necks split. I have a newer video on this topic BTW.

TreeTopFlier cool. Thanks. I'll look for it

You Tube can add the advertisements to any video they want to without the maker knowing.

1.360" if they are unsized.

Agree. I dont consider the brass fully formed tell after fireformed. Expect to loose a couple thousandths after. It pushes the bottom if the shoulder out into the corner of the die.

Hunter Hoffman watch GunBlue490 on RU-vid. He has some great videos and methods on annealing cases.

Pretty sure all the brass you mentioned is from the now (OLD) recommended list. Best to stay below .013 wall thickness. Its just meant to be helpful not a law. You are right, the differences in chamber dimensions can be the difference between works or doesnt. I have two chambers, one eats anything. The other gets high pressure if I look at it wrong. If you use cast bullets you generally dont size them down to a true 308 so the what it interacts with the chamber is bullet diameter plus wall thickness twice.

When I started loading these for my AR I had feed problems with cases I made. Once I culled everything except the LC cases that problem went away. Btw I have the RCBS trim die and small base die set. Idk about a difference using other dies I just know using LC 223 brass and RCBS dies work for both of my ARs in 300 blk

+Cat G Hi, thanks for your interest in the channel. There's a guy that sells jigs on 300 blktalk.com According to his post he makes one for 308 variants. 30-06 is the same basic case as a 308 so the brass would fit in the jig. The saw relief may be in the wrong place but that would be easy to fix. Here is the Link: www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=179&t=85923 Lee makes a quick trim die also: leeprecision.com/8x57_mauser_qt_die.html

+TreeTopFlier thanks I'll give that a try. I have the quick trim die already. I think they need to be cut down first and formed before I use that.

+Cat G You would definitely have to cut and form first. The process for 300 would be similar, only you would probably use the 3/8 bearing on the springs and the spacer on the shank. If you can, come back and let me know what you find. I think you made me want a Mauser LOL.

Love my milsurps. Have a 1917 k98 that was sporterized before I got it that shots like a dream and an 1895 Chilean that was rechambered in 308. Haven't fired it yet. I just got it recently. You won't be disappointed. Well worth the money.

+Cat G my list is longer than my budget... a k98 would be awesome!

+David Farber If you can locate a 1/4" bearing to use in place of the 3/8" inch one the cutter ships with it does a much better job of chamfering the neck in and out. This works best on both blackouut and 223. The blackout die directions tell you not to use the bearing but that didnt work at all for me. Thanks for watching!

Will do and thanks from one shooter to another.

+Subgunman I think you mean this. www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=88599&hilit=brass+list I try to put most of the links to things I discuss in the video description, just have to click the show more tab. Thanks for watching!

Definitely but I use a little grease rather than WD40 now so the chips stay dry and flush out easily...lessons learned.

Sorry for the late reply. If the cases spin, It usually means you have too much residual lube on the cases and or, inside your die. The die has a hard plastic like material in the bottom thats meant to grip the case, if it has lube on it and there's a bit of a cut it can spin. You can till because the case gets warm. Also, if there is too much trimming being done the cutter can grab the case and spin it. Not usually a problem with just trimming 223 but when making new cases like 300blk it can happen. I take my dies out and spray them inside with brake cleaner to degrease them. You can also use a large barrel cleaning patch to wipe them out. Hope this helps.

The spacer, to be clear is the metal ring just below the black adjuster ring. It has a snap ring down inside of it that fits into a groove on the shaft. The new ones can be a little stubborn. If it was me and I couldn't get it to free by pulling and twisting, I would probably try carefully prying it away from the adjuster ring. Good luck!

Its not a problem because you are going to trim it after forming. Just forming can cause an uneven length as the brass flows to the new shape. Just be sure to cut long enough to trim after. You want to trim last anyway so you can achieve a consistent length and square the neck.

TreeTopFlier just to be clear, I was referring to the mouth of the case being not squared after cutting with jig. Will that ultimately square up after forming and then final trimming with the Lee Power Trim?

Yes, the trim die and cutter should square the mouth so I wouldn't worry about it. The only problem you might have is if the short part isn't as long as your trim length. OR, you are too long and the bit catches too much material causing the case grab the cutter and spin in the die. Ideally, I like to shoot for about .010 too long so that's all I have to trim. I would, however, investigate to see why the jig is not square with the saws blade.

Im not really sure what your asking but Ill give it a try. Even If you cut the neck off, you can still run it through a 223 small base die to take advantage of the small base die sizing. You will still have to go back and form the neck in a 300 black die. At whichever point you resize the case, you will have to account for the case getting longer when sized.

The depth of the trim is set by an adjustable ring which provides a fixed stop, so no it will not keep cutting. That said, the chamfer blades can wear down on the brass if run too long which could have the effect of over trimming. Thanks for watching!

Yes that is the one based on the recommendations of others. I still use Lee.

+Digitalmanne Thanks for the question, no you don't need to anneal to form the brass, the neck bend is minimal. That said, if you do anneal it may help to prevent neck splitting after multiple reloads. If you are loading supersonic the primer pockets will probably wear out before the necks split.

+TreeTopFlier I used to never anneal but after about 3-5 reloads yeah they will start to get brittle and splitting

Dima Prok I still have the original one I bought. I broke the adjuster ring right out of the box so I had to replace it. The ring is stiff to turn so its easy to go past the stop, if you go past the stop the ring can pop off and doesn't like to stay on after that. It is a weak point. Not a problem once you get used to how it works. The good news is, all the parts are available for cheep. Here is the link for the parts.. leeprecision.com/deluxe-power-quick-trim-parts/ The molded parts tab has a list of the plastic bits, look in the pull down box. leeprecision.com/molded-parts-qt.html They are $.75 ea Also for anyone putting in an order get the cutter pin too. It does a great job for a very little investment and its totally maintainable.

TreeTopFlier Thank you, one more question, do you get even cuts with your SD jig? I made my own, but the cuts are not even, I get 1.370 on one side and 1.380 on the other. I didn't think the extra length was that big of a deal, but since my Lee cutter pilots keep getting worn out, It make sense to spend 11 bucks for a jig to get even precise cuts for minimum trimming.

Dima Prok It does pretty good, the jig I have has a ramp in it to accommodate the taper in the case. The HF saw has a cheezy vice and the block is unsupported on the side so the jig can teeter and give you an uneven cut. You really have to spend some time getting it to locked into the right spot, torque it down hard and leave it. I try to trim about .008-.010" max. Just enough to square the neck. Have not had to change any blades so far. I cut at 1.360., when they get sized/formed they usually grow out to about 1.368. Then I use the quick trim to trim them back down to 1.360. You have to fine tune it a little.

+Dima Prok my quick trim has several thousand prices of brass through it so far. its still going strong. i'm using a similar driver to treetop, but im using a standard drill/driver. so my pass takes about 4 seconds. i did a timed session on my last batch of 300blk i was resizing, and i running ~9 peices per minute through the die setup. as he said, working around the camera only slows you down. once you get into the swing of it. its gravy.

+plantone1 When I considered this trimmer in the past I found few things odd about it. First I didn't like that I had to use it in the press which is in my home office to have brass shavings fall in the carpet and second was to use one hand to hold the press lever and most important was fail reports I read at the time has turned me off, there was also a factor of getting a separate die. I've tried Lee case length gauge and I was happy with it until I found that if you motorize it, the cases quickly start getting shorter and shorter, the pilot wore off and it's not adjustable. I've tried Hornady trimmer and returned it immediately, it needed it's own shell holders and I wasn't going to buy them and I just though it would be very slow process to crank the handle by hand. Next I bought Giraud tri-way trimmer and although it's pretty fast it takes toll on your fingers and doesn't chamfer even, it's also not very comfortable to operate cordless drill in upright position as recommended in the manual, also running my corded drill for prolonged time gets it pretty hot so it might go out, I don't care as it's cheap and old, but something to consider if you're going to do big volume of trimming. Next I bought Lyman e-ZEE Trim and have to say it's much better than Lee and that's what I should have bought instead of Lee, the case holder is so much better made and easier to operate and can be used in conjunction with Lee if you want to, also the pilot bits are locked with set screw, so I haven't had chance to run it for large session but I think if the pilot gets shorter, I can re-adjust the length with the set screw which you cannot due with Lee. Together with adapter from ebay that allows you to attach cutter to Lyman prep center you can quickly trim, chamfer and debur all on motorized station, I really like this setup. Next I bought LE Wilson trimmer. It had perfect reviews and is rather expensive but I was at the point where I really wanted something consistent and adjustable and I got used one off ebay for 1/3 of the new price. It needs special shell holders that are also extremely helpful when using to hold case to remove military crimp and cutting primer pockets as I found out that reason sometimes primers don't sit below flush is that primer pocket is not deep enough and I used to blame my RCBS universal priming tool. When you use quality brass the primers seat below as they should. I need to order an adapter from eBay for my LE Wilson to motorize it with impact driver, for precision I'll stick with LE Wilson, for volume I would go with Giraud / EZTrimIt if you can afford it or Lyman E-Zee trim and prep center.

I have trimmed over 1000 rounds with the same blade. As long as you do not accidentally try cutting a steel case they will last a long time. Harbor Freight sells spare blades. I check my cases with a magnet to make sure there are no steel cases mixed in with the brass.

This looks pretty awesome ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LULS86IG6FE.html

Neck turning is optimal for consistency but its not a capability that most freeloaders have. In addition to neck wall consistency it also removes the undesirable taper in converted 223 brass.

OMG, you caught me....I was turning 223 brass into 300 blackout brass. Totally busted. Thanks for watching.