I show you how I built a $10 Golf Swing Speed and Strength Training club that's better than anything else you can buy. Find out why this is the best option for improving strength and speed in your golf swing.
The training grip is genius. As well as grip technique , It makes it less fatiguing on the hands to hold the club. You don't want grip to be a limiting factor in gym based training so you use weightlifting straps. Make sense to get extra help with golf too. Very clever.
I just made one of these yesterday and took it out to the driving range this morning. I found a "like new" Titleist 775 CB Forged 6-iron, with a Dynamic Gold Lite S300 shaft, at Goodwill for $3.00. It was a demo club with the length (37.5), lie (62.5°), and shaft (DGL-S) imprinted on the toe. This club has a nice deep cavity back that made adding a ton of lead tape quite easy. After adding the grip and lead tape, I brought the total weight up to 475g with a swing weight of D8. I warmed up with six shots with my 6-iron followed by a dozen shots with the "trainer". Afterwards I went back to my 6-iron and I will say, it did feel like my club head speed increased some and the ball was carrying and additional 7 or 8 yards. I definitely feel like this may have some benefits for my game. Time will tell. Thanks for the video.
My understanding with regards to the swing speed trainers is that the head weight is much lighter rather than heavier. So, instead of the standard 200 gram headweight of a driver, for instance, the headweight starts at 150 grams. The exact weight, I can't remember, but, you get the idea. Lighter rather than heavier....at least the more recent ones.
Many years ago I had built myself a homemade heavy club to practice with. I used a steel bar from Home Depot, had a small hole drilled in the bottom, and glued in an old 4-iron clubhead into it with a wood dowel. I painted it red, and attached a training grip in a neutral position. The thing is heavy, and I mean HEAVY!! While I can't hit balls with it it has allowed me to learn to make a solid backswing, and reach a good impact position. Ten or so really slow swings is all I need to do with this club.
Good advice on how a weighted training club cannot just be head heavy. The shaft should be slightly weighted as well..Well in this case you used the grip area to add the extra weight…same thing..I do know a touring pro who instead of installing the training grip for the extra weight he did something ingenious..He added 20 to 30 grams to the head, And added lead tape starting from the grip end all the way down the shaft to the Ferrell near the hosel..This was approx 3 feet of lead tape..I believe it was an old 7 iron he did this to..He could hit this weighted 7 iron on the range approx 150 yds…Then when switched to his regular 7 iron he could hit that 170 yds…
Ohh this reminds me of a lead tape experiment some years back, but I would change my grip from short ( weak) > mid ( normal) > long irons ( strong) , I have used a 100 gram reg/stiff flexed 3 iron for this and yes it is great for learning flush the shots.
I've used those Lamkin training grips for a few years now, i have a driver, 7 iron, & 56 wedge i use for training/teaching purposes. Grip is the first fundamental. if you don't hold it correctly, it's gonna be hard to swing it correctly
Funny... I did the exact same thing a few months ago with an old 8 Iron and some lead tape. It’s been the best training aid I’ve ever used so far, and promotes a consistent swing.
Thanks very much for this video. Very helpful. Watching this and thinking could you make a DIY LagShot trainer this way. Same training grip and head, but use a seven iron head and put in a 3 iron shaft, which would be soft stepped four times. Between that, and the heavy counter weighting at each end, the shaft should be pretty soft. You could hit balls with it, you'd have to improve rhythm, and if you wanted a head with not as much offset (or no offset) as the real LagShot (which for me is unusable there is so much offset on it) you could do it. I don't know the shaft FM specs for a genuine LagShot, but this would seem to come close, but would allow hitting real shots. Thanks again!
I would think a stiffer shaft would be needed too due to the much heavier head. 20g added to the head is like 3x soft stepping the shaft. I'm gonna try building one with both a heavier and stiffer shaft than what I normally play. Thanks AJ.
The purpose of speed training is not to learn how to hit a ball. It is to train your brain and your body to go faster. Then you dial it back to get the precision required to hit the ball. You will end faster than before the training.
Years ago I wrapped some lead tape around the shaft of an old first generation metal head driver to practice with. It increased the weight of the club but didn't help my distance. LOL
Question. I play X100’s in my T100’s and love them, but I have a set of MP32’s with S300’s. My question is how can I make those S300’s play like a X100? Is this possible. Keep up the great content, AJ. Thanks!
You can tip trim them to make them stiffer. Tip 3/8 inch will still fit into a tapered hosel. You will however then have shafts that are 3/8 too short so you would need to install extensions to get them back to length. Considering that X100 shafts are only around $25, I would just reshaft them, less work in the end.
I’ve been thinking about this since I watched the video. I’m considering doing two clubs…one being a 6 iron and another being a pitching wedge to be used to practice both pitching and chipping. What do you think?
I need your expert advice. Not with swing trainers, but with building up driver shafts. I watched your videos on an alternative to the auto-flex shaft and I bought a few un cut shafts and added grips an adapters. I found a really good one in a senior flex that feels great and works great for my swing. My question is, should I put the grip on first, or the adapter? I have a hard time lining up the grip and shaft logos. Does it matter?
If it's a round grip (not ribbed) then it won't matter. I always save the grip for last because it's easier to line up with the head on. If it's an adapter, I put the head on before gripping so I know they are lined up.
I put one of these grips on an old pitching wedge and I literally busted the bottom out of the grip. I think the grip is so thin it has a hard time getting over the shaft, so I had to force it and this broke the bottom out of it
Grabbed two of those grips off Amazon, does the right hand grip feel really weak to you? Left hand V feels good, but the bottom V seems to point straight up the grip
Hi, not sure where to post the question... But I've been looking at the Takomo 201 and 301cb clubs. Would you say there is a big difference in how forgiving they are (currently playing 2019 forged tec's off a 6 index). Looking for something less "jumpy". Also noted you switched out the 201's quite quickly, any particular reason for this?
The 201 is more forgiving than the 301 CB. The long irons are very easy to hit in that 201. I think the closer comparison is between the 201 and the 101T. As for not playing the 201 anymore. I somehow lost the 5 iron (random) and then just decided that I felt like building something new and different.
Someone with more experience, please explain why people do not install the training grip on their normal clubs? As our guy here states, using that trainer grip, "at the very least tells you that your hand position and grip is correct."
A grip “must not be moulded for any part of the hands”. If a certain feature on the grip enables the player to place his or her hands in exactly the same position every time, solely by feel, then it must be determined whether that feature renders the grip “moulded for the hands”. I think it was this rule they used on Harris English’s putter grip at the Ryder cup.
