Over the years ive seen lot of raci g channels and car diy channels but this dude is the only one ive came across that actually make the entire process look easy and simple
Just wanted to say I've been a fan for the years you have been doing this and will be applying the knowledge you have shared to do a lot of this to my FD3S RX7 Project car! Cannot thank you enough there are so many other guys out there that don't want to share it.
You should get a website and sell items you use on there I bet you could make some good $ off it by just putting a link in your description. You could also sell parts that you’ve made that way.
CSM conforms really well to compound curves, whereas woven cloth does not. On the outer door skins i used csm because I was only making molds, and I have that in stock in rolls, and the extra strength of woven cloth was not needed it my molds. I ensure that with proven thicknesses and those over laid rubber strips. You don't have to make molds as thick as is commonly believed - it's more a matter of making them so they hold their shape, and those over laid ribs do that much better.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I've been trying to figure out how to make some fiberglass spoiler/wing stands. It's a simple enough shape but i can't figure out how to make them. Given that they are essentially hollow pieces and need to bolt to the wing on one end and the deck lid on the other I'm at a loss. I've spent many hours scouring the internet trying to find something similar i could adapt the technique from but have come up empty. I'd love to see any tips that might help me.
I went a different route, shaping a plate out of tin for each side. Then I cut a piece of 25mm electrical conduit in half & put it down the middle. That gave me a die on which to hand lay them in CF. If you want a hollow post you sculpt the shape you want, then make a two piece split flanged mold of each side. Then make the two halves & trim to the flanges leaving them in their molds. Then you bolt the two dies with the 2 layups together & pour in expanding foam to lock the two halves together. Same technique as e making this wing: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-laR2C55b8AA.html If you want other ways of making a flange for a split mold you will find that in my playlist of fiberglass tutorials.
@@BillsBuildandRace I never thought about using the foam to press the fiberglass into the mold. I've also been worried about the mount bolt holes being along the seem of a split mold. I was thinking of using a piece of aluminium to reinforce the mounting sections. These wing stands won't be used for racing. I'm trying to make parts to fit the look a friend wants for his car. Thank you so much for the reply, it definitely has given me something to try.
So is this epoxy? I might have missed what is being used, but the pot life seems to be quite long. I suffer from forever weak and sticky resin molds because they either cook off too quickly or never cure.
Yes - this is epoxy resin in use. With polyester resins used with fiberglass the set up speed is controlled by the percentage of catalyst you mix in - from 1 - 2%. However with epoxy resin the setup speed is determined by the B part of the mix. The names and speed variations differ from brand to brand, but the most common options are 10, 20 and 30 minute worklife. Many brands offer no speed options at all - they just have a part A & a part B, and you cannot vary the worklife speed by mixing in more or less of the part B, because with epoxy resin the product ratios are set. But the locally made (Oz) brand I use is called "500". That's the part A. They offer part B as 510, 20, and 30 - each one offering those different worklife speeds. So I always use 530 - which is also the clearest. Temperature will affect how fast your epoxy resin goes off too. If you are living in a warm or hot climate, switch to laying up only on cool, wet days, or in the first hours of daylight, or at night. So your difficulties are either most likely being caused by the climate where you are, or the particular brand of epoxy that you have been using. So - what brand of epoxy have you been using?
@@BillsBuildandRace Thanks for the great answer, Bill! I am in the Southwest US, so we are currently in Summer and hot and dry. I have been working small projects to learn how to layup a mold and hand-lay fiberglass. I've used both the polyester resin that comes with off-the-shelf fiberglass kits in the US and two-part epoxy purchased from Amazon. The resin is much cheaper and easier to source, however the challenge comes in mixing amounts and ratios for an effective workflow. My only success with the resin comes when I mix small batches, wasting materials. I see your large jug and the speed at which you can work so I might have to accept the cost trade off and go with epoxy. Thinking of using Total Boat brand.
@@whosestone I reckon your problem really is that you don't have a good supplier where you can buy polyester resin at reasonable prices. Epoxy resin is ALWAYS more expensive than polyester resin, so if you are buying epoxy cheaper than polyester you are getting ripped off on the latter. Google search "fiberglass materials supplier....in your area" to find a trade supplier. Yes (despite industry hysteria) you CAN use epoxy with fiberglass, but chopped strand mat has an element in it that breaks down to polyester resin, so your jobs will actually be weaker if you use epoxy with chopped fiberglass cloth. Once you find a trade supplier many other great products are at hand, often along with good advice (although many counter jockeys with NO actual laying up experience will pretend to know more than you do). I always buy polyester resin in bulk to save money, paying US$135 for a 20 litre pail, and $5 for catalyst. Buying any composite product off the internet you will ALWAYS get ripped off. It's easy - you just tap that "buy" button" - but you pay for that apparent convenience.
You all have the same disease - you don't shoot the video to the end. What happened in the end? Two pieces of plastic? What then? Thrown out in the trash or put on a car? Why should the audience guess for themselves what the doors look like when they are dressed on a car?
The making of those doors were just part of a ground up race car build, and the people who watched that series saw things progress. Both doors are shown being painted & fitted here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4k_vGeNEgHY.html and the completely finished car is shown here from start to finish ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xdTBsz9yL1Q.html