To purchase parts or contact us: ajhartmanaero.com/ Facebook: / ajhartmanaero Instagram: @ajhartmanaero Recorded on GoPro 7 Black: amzn.to/2YW7B5N Edited with Pinnacle Studio: amzn.to/30NWm11
This is exactly the kind of methodology I was hoping to see. An outer beauty panel with an inner structural panel bonded to it that recreates the kind of skeletonized raised support structure that companies make with stamped steel in order to use tensegrity to add additional rigidity and support to the panels. Those molds are beautifully made and the gel-coat in flawless. I appreciate your efforts to really work the carbon into the creases and contours of the mold with the spray adhesive to ensure that you have enough material packed in there for the vacuum bag to work with. Beautifully done, this should result in an inordinately strong part that weighs considerably less than the original despite being an order of magnitude stronger.
One tip to avoid a sanding operation. Remove your parts from the mold, do your trimming and hole cutting, then remove the peel ply when you're ready to bond the parts together. That should leave you with a good surface for bonding without having to sand. That's how we build airplanes out of composites. You only need to sand if you remove the peel ply too early and let it get contaminated.
There are two types of Peel Ply in the industry. If you use the type for bonding then the surface finish is rough. I would imagine he's using the type that leaves a very smooth finish. Thus the need to sand before bonding. He's been around the block on making parts, so I am sure he knows what he's doing.
Question: Why follow the internal ribs and contours of the original sheet metal part? They're there to add rigidity while conforming to the limitations of press machines and welding requirements. Why replicate those exact shapes on a one-off hand-made part? Any external surface must be the exact shape for obvious reasons (Originality and/or aesthetics). Only the mating internal surfaces need to follow the original design... Painstakingly re-creating the internal surface structure seems redundant. Any thoughts?
@@vikassm because he did a Mold of the entire inner support areas. Doesnt want to go through all the extra work of modifying things when the inner stuff already has great mold quality paint. And these arent one off. He sells them to people that want to buy.
@@vikassm Without the inner part you need some kind of other structure or the outer part alone could wobble and bend diagonally. It also helps to build some thickness. Pretty sure the part even with the inner will be shallower on the body of the car than the surrounding original parts, though.
Awesome work. Love to see the process. Do you have a video on how you made the molds? Also, have you considered making rear quarter panels for your new edge race car? I was wondering if that’s possible.
hello sir.. I'm a newbie to this method(carbon fiber infusion) Can i ask u few question about the process u did in the video: 1- what clear coat do u use sir? 2- what is the oven temp' u using during the curing process? 3- how long(hours) does it take to full cure the Trunk? 4- do u close the "vacuum pump" after the epoxy is full cover the mold or u just left it running until the trunk is full cure? 5- what glue type(bonding agent) u use to combine the Trunk? That's all.. sorry sir for too many question asking Your answer will help me a lot.. Keep up the great work u do sir :)
NICE !! What are you using for a release agent? Did you put clear coat down on the mould before you laid up the carbon cloth? Thanks for sharing. 10 /10. From New Zealand
I built a custom steel hood for my Subaru Baja with a larger scoop out of a newer STI and have someone wanting me to do the same for their 22 Outback. These one-offs are not profitable at all so I'm trying to gather as much info about composites as I can in hopes of reproducing a few. Thanks for the good time lapse of the process!
Thats impressive, excellent work man, i highly advise you to make carbon hood and fenders for new supra. The market is full of bolted fiber glass parts but if you can make a complete part that will be a great business for you. God bless you
I love watching your videos, I am looking at getting into doing this for my self as a result. I did have a question though from when you did the outer shell, did the resin really almost explode into the part where it went very quickly or was that just the time lapse? the reason i ask is because all the others seem a ton slower. Thanks for your time and keep up the great work :)
What carbon fiber fabric do you use and which spray adhesive? It looks that you can manipulate it really well around corners and details. Great work and nice channel!
how many "k" carbon (thickness) were you using ? noticed it was 2 layers with some brace layers and no core, interested in some extra info if you can share when to use core and thickness choices
Wowwwww Impressive... I would like to know what kind of glue did you aplied on rivets and when you paste 2 carbon parts... I would like glue scrows on my little proyects...
wow thats amazing i always wanted to see how carbon fiber parts are made now i know its a long hard labores process i want 2 get as much carbon fiber on my car as i can 2 make it lighter after watching this video i have a new found respect n admiration for carbon fiber and your work u r a very good craftsman
@@ajhartmanaeroHi mate, long shot replying to a 10 month old comment but I could use some tips and advice. Is there any way I can reach out to you to ask some basic questions?
Two questions: 1) I have seen some really great "maker" videos by you which includes product you sell. Is your goal to empower folks to make their own custom stuff or give folks a peek at what goes into the making of your parts? 2) The tactical vest. Seen you wear it a few times in videos. Is it a convenient place to store tools as you work?
How many degree in your oven ? and it's just cure faster or it has another purpose ? I watched your video alot and hopefully, i will open my one day Thanks
Great video. If you need to use threaded inserts on your carbon panels, can you install regular rivnuts? Or are there special threaded inserts you would recommend for carbon panels (like splitters)
@@ajhartmanaero for this application its on the edge of a splitter just to close the gap to the bumper - not structural. But more curious in your experience with threaded inserts and CF in general.
Do you always clearly see where to cut in the end or is there a risk of easily ruining the cut? When the trunk is installed, will it sit significantly lower than the (original) fenders surrounding it?
Is there a reason why you dont leave the outer skin in the mold, glue in the underside (potentually you can use vaccum bagfor clamping) and only than take it out ? Interested to learn as that is how we did large assemblies in marine production to make sure the outer skin doesnt deform. Beautiful work by the way. A pleasure looking at someone doing such clean work.
