This is superb I cannot stand the Hornby turntable it is so Bad, but this is so Much better, after watching someone having so much trouble it- I thought surely the best thing is have some ball bearings underneath and that's exactly what you have done with it, yours is just how it should be, thank you for sharing. ✔✔👍👍😃😃
Oh, so the lower ring rail moves WITH the bridge as opposed to the common set up of wheels on bottom ends of the TT bridge rolling ON a fixed ring. And it's because you chose to have it all atop a lazy susan mechanism.. I suppose in the great realm of things it makes no diff as the final outcome is quite realistic and am sure, pleasing enough for you in getting your locos turned around,...which is ALL that matters.. Anyway, great job, sir....
Excellent, in the process of making the turntable at the moment, just waiting for that slow boat from China for the motor. Best video presentation I have seen for a long time. Well done and lets have more.
Many thanks for sharing this video. You have inspired me with your clever design and use of the lazy-susan rings. Must try it. Thanks again and happy modelling !!
This is my next project. And looks like the Dapol kit, (Although not perfect) will supply the Detail I require. I am a Modeller from my youth, so if I can keep my Wobbles under control ( the Joys of Maturity, Yay..!) I should be able to finish the job, (hopefully before Death.) Building a Layout for and with my Boy, we should have fun..! Near to my home in Australia, there is a Turntable, that we would like to Copy. It runs a Heritage Steam train, that uses it in Times of need. Having taken the Boy on a Trip 2 or 3 Times on the Train, in his youth. It will be something to Amuse the Grandkids in the future. ? If we can keep them off the Gaming sites long enough. 🤯🤯 So thank you for the info. Your work looks just Fine and very simular to the real thing here in Oz. Once again Thanks for your efforts in Sharing your Skills. Cheers All, kim in Oz. 😎
will be retiring in a couple of years and will be doingan HO scale layout. I model the Union Pacific and of course will have large power operating on the layout including a couple of Big Boys and Challengers...DDA40X and others. I plan to scratch build a turn Table big enough to handle the Big Boys including tenders. That will be about 135'. It should be quite an interesting build. I could use some advice at that point. :-)
Nice to hear about your future retirement project, it sounds terrific. The turntable sounds challenging. I am glad you found my video(s) interesting and If you feel I can help in any way please contact me again. I do not profess to be a great expert but sharing experiences and information is half the fun of our great hobby. I wish you well with your build. Regards ... David
As far as your electrical connection to bridge, you could extend the shaft and get some poly carbonate and glue brass/ copper strip in circles, 2 off, then get 2 brush holders one for each track, and 2 brushes that contact the brass) copper strips giving constant electrical contact
Thanks Fred. Since the follow up video I have removed the bearings. There is no load on the outer ring, it is only cosmetic so I felt the bearings were adding a drag to the inner ring. It works better with the bearings removed. Good luck with your build. ... David
David Hyde ....hi David it’s been a long in the planning but I’ve finally made a start on the turntable...just need a bit more info on the electrical connectors...mine will not be motorised...and only in a slight recess....in anticipation...fred
Only recently discovered your layout and series of videos. Excellently prodiced. Thank you for sharing with us your experiences particularly with turntable construction. Just received my lazy susan and am looking to buy from ebay the motor. I looked on your facebook page but I think your posting with motor details has been removed. May I please ak yo to put the motor detailss on again Regards Geoff Hardy
Hi Geoffrey, glad you came across my videos and I am pleased you like them. Ah yes, my facebook page. I forgot this was on there. I am not a big fan of FB I am afraid, and I was not finding the time to update the Deresley page. Hope you have not bought a motor yet. I dismantled my turntable when I re-designed my goods operation and I would be pleased to send you the motor and wiring instructions. My email address is dahyde@aol.com. Please contact me anyway for the wiring instructions - thanks again ... David
An excellent video and explanation. I will be using your ideas in the near future! Very many thanks for the time and effort you have put in to sharing them, Roger
Hi Roger, thanks very much. I have now removed my turntable to make room for more scenery. It worked fine, but i had other ideas for the space. Good luck if you go ahead and make one. Appreciate your comments - David
Thanks David, been of great help, so the to purchase motor and I'll get the Hornby decoder and go from there.If it's ok get in touch with you for more advice. Unfortunately I'm not on Facebook, my wife is but that's her account ,and " no body else's " , so will get in touch via your you tube site.Many thanks again,Richard a very early morning in Australia.
No Problem Richard. I can't attach photos (But you have seen the motor on the video) I have just copied my facebook post (below) which has the specs. - Hope this is useful in your ebay search - David High Torque Turbo Worm Geared Motor DC 12V Motor 2-160RPM Reversible JGY370 TH I fitted a DCC decoder and set it up to control the speed, as if it were a loco, on my controller Specification: Material:Metal Voltage: DC 12V Rotating Speed: 2/6/10/18/40/160RPM Features: The motor is Gear DC motor with micro-turbine worm, you can change the wiring-connection to change motor rotation. 1. Turbo worm geared motor with self-lock, that is, in the case of motor without electric, the output axis is fixed, self-lock. 2. The reducer output shaft arranged vertically with the motor shaft, whole motor output shaft relatively-short than general gear motor, widely used to be installed the dimensions requirements strictly occasion. Application: open the window, door, Mini winch. ect.
I have ordered some slip rings for my turntable to get reliable power feed. The slip ring will go under the deck in my thinking but we will see when they get here.
I am very 'old school' jim, I like to get things 'right'. They are far from professional but quality is important, and I do take time making each video, thanks again. Regards, David
Many thanks for your kind comment. Space is limited on my layout so, at least for the time being, I have removed my turntable. It worked fine but I decided to use the space for an extra goods siding and scenery. Thanks again for your interest - David
Hi David, my lazy Susan arrived today. What did you use to fix it to the inner circle, I was thinking of PVA or some contact adhesive? I agree with Hovermotion, your delivery is precise and to the point, no ah's and um's. Thank youAlan
Hi Alan. I drilled & countersunk 1 additional hole on the inner circle, directly opposite one of the pre-drilled holes already in it. I was then able to screw the wooden beam across the inner circle. I bought a radio knob with a brass insert & grub screw. This will fit securely on the motor shaft. I then cut out a section in the centre of the wooden beam to house the radio knob. With the wooden beam attached to the inner ring, attach the radio knob to the motor shaft (secured by the grub screw). Making sure everything was as centrally placed as possible, I used some epoxy putty to secure the radio knob to the centre of the wooden beam. Hope this is clear. The motor is secured to the turntable baseboard from underneath. Neither the inner or outer circles of the lazy susan is fixed in place. This allows the turntable to 'flex' a little bit If you are a fraction out in your centering. You need to be pretty close though else the rails wont line up. I did eventually remove all the ball bearings Part #2 near the end). At slow speads the results were smoother. I am still using it with the bearings removed. Hope this has answered your question. Good luck with the build. Love to here about progress, especially if you come up with any improvemrnts. Regards, David
Hello David, thanks for a wonderful idea for a turntable. I’ve followed much of what you have done but I don’t know how to cover the metal rings of the lazy Susan. Have you painted the metal rings or covered then with some other material? Please just say. Many thanks. Keep safe and well.
Hi John, many thanks for your comment and question. There are two metal rings that bake up the lazy Susan. The outer ring remains visible so it will need painting - as will the vertical 'showing' edge of the inner ring. The plastic circular rail comes with the Dapol kit and this is simply glued to the top surface of the inner ring - (araldite or similar). Hope this is O.K. Keep safe ... David
@@davidhyde4329 Thanks for a swift reply, David. I’ve bought some metal primer and painted the “tops” of the aluminium rings in preparation. I found an original Airfix kit at an exhibition late last year, but sadly there was no circular rail so I may leave out this element OR buy a fresh kit. As for the vertical edge I have successfully constructed a curved card wall insert and papered it with a suitable building paper including wall capping folded over at the top. I’ll send you a photo if I can. Keep safe and well, John.
@@johnthewlis8524 Well done John, shame about the circular rail. It was made up from segments in the Dapol kit. Curved wall using building papers is a great idea. Love to see a photo when you have finished it. Good luck ... David
Hi Richard, no problem. Good point, no I didn't. I powered the TT motor through the dcc decoder. I took the track power and connected it directly to the red & black wires on the decoder, and than connected the orange and grey wires on the decoder to the TT motor. When you select the TT in Railmaster the dcc ID will connect to the decoder and, hey presto, you have your turntable under the control of Railmaster. To put it another way, normally the track power gets to the decoder through wheels & pickups. The TT does not have wheels so you need to connect it directly to its motor. Just get back to me if this is still unclear - David
Just a note the Peco Turntable has 2 wires from the deck , that attach to the bus track wires ,the motor seems to be powered separately . Would that be correct?Richard
Hi Richard - no, I have just viewed the clip & the understanding of the circuit is a bit confusing. The only power supply needed (from the main track connections) comes in at the socket, from which there are a Red & Black wire that lead to the tag strip. The tag strip has 4 connectors. The Red & Black wires are connected to to top 2 connectors on the left (as viewed). Two bridging wires are taken from these connectors to the bottom 2 (as viewed) - keep all these input connections on the left of the tags (for simplicity). What has now happened is that the single power input from the track has been divided into 2 separate inputs. Connect the top Red & Black to the TURNTABLE TRACK (via the contact posts so the loco can move) and connect the bottom Red & Black to the Red & Black wires on the decoder. Finally connect the Grey & Orange wires from the decoder to the TURNTABLE MOTOR. When you switch on your layout, with a new decoder, your Turntable will default to 03. Go ahead and set it up in Railmaster as if it were a loco. My wires colours may not have been as I have described which doesn't help ! & there is a hole through which the wires pass -close to the tag - strip which doesn't help either. If you have access to facebook (perhaps a friend) I can put a wiring diagram there if you need further clarification. Good luck - David
Hi David, I have Peco turntable, what motor did you use to operate the turntable, I've tried the expo model , but too noisey, also I'm running Railmaster with Elite.
Hi Richard. Yes I have heard with the problems of the expo motor. Had a Hornby turntable for a very short time and that made a racket too. I bought mine from ebay, its is all metal and it is cheap - well under £10 UK. What I have just done is posted full details on my Deresley facebook page with a couple of photos, this will give you all the information and specs you need. I added a spare DCC decoder and controlled it through Railmaster. Deresley facebook link : facebook.com/Deresley Thanks for your interest - David
Hi David, thank you for the extra info, but what I want to know is what adhesive bonds the plastic circular rail to the aluminium. I've looked on line and there are so many conflicting statements, I'm confused. Sorry to be a pain.Regards. Alan.
Hi Alan, sorry, I misunderstood. I used a 10 minute epoxy glue. I it is only cosmetic so I guess you could use PVA, or super glue.. You are not a pain, I appreciate your interest. Regards, David
Always will try to help people save money.Silicone.If you look in buiders skips.There is always some left in the nozzle.Enough for a turn table. leave overnight.Not painters cork.
Very good,Have subscribed now,so found your earlier video,s.I dont understand why you used your pick up system for the track.ie.when you could have run normal cable down the centre through wide enough holes with a bit of slack.and as i said before a couple of light switches.Also ,How did you make your name board,
Thanks for subscribing. I could not run cables through the centre as I opted to turn the table directly via a geared motor. The shaft from the gearbox rotated up through the centre. I decided to use passing contacts to switch polarity and I found this easier to set up above the turntable than below it. As for the name board - the Nene Valley Railway is just up the A1 from me and they have a turntable that looks vaguely similar to mine and had this name plaque on it. I photographed it then, estimating its size, I scaled it and produced a copy using Photoshop (elements 7). It was just a case then of printing it and fixing it on a scrap of pasticard. Regards - David
Not exact centre,enough to clear the gear box.When in its position either side..As long as its not showing from above.and the cable holes as big as possible.and enough slack on the cable.Also another way is to drill cable hole at each end of turn table underneath loco ramp with enough slack on cable underneath .Your turntable guide is glued .you just have to remember to turn back the way it came every so often to stop twisting of the wire.
Exactly so - perhaps I will look at this again in the future. I am happy with my decision thus far. Thanks for your interest, I appreciate your views - David
Thanks for the reply.The other thing that you said about helping it to line up easier.There are 3mm cube neo magnets..I think if you put one on each inside of rail.Very small and easy to paint the top thats showing ,to camourflage.Maybe both ends would be to strong.but could try one end first.The problem with the neo magnets they are about £8 for 50.But they are also good for uncoupling.So not wasted
Hi Richard, you're welcome. The decoder was just the basic Hornby R8249. I would imagine any similar would do. On Railmaster just treat it as if it were a locomotive, allocate it a identification number (I used 99). You will have the option of cruise & shunt speeds I just set the shunt speed the speed I felt looked right for the turntable you will also have to allocate a cruise speed. Obviously I named the 'locomotive' TURNTABLE. With Railmaster you can rotate the turntable in either direction and control the speed. I had to stop it when it reached its turn limits. Takes a bit of getting used to but it worked fine. Hope this helps - David
Thanks Allan. Now I am adding sound to some locos I will take another look at this - there''s always something I suppose but that's what keeps it interesting. Thanks again ... David
Hi Bobby, many thanks for your interest. I enjoyed the challenge of making the turntable. I used it with some confidence having got used to judging the rail positions by eye. The connections to track worked very well. I did eventually start to buy locos with sound but, by then, I decided I wanted more scenic areas for photography so I never resolved the lack of connection while the turntable was operating. Small towns, like Deresley, would not have had a turntable, so I altered my method of operating my goods and passenger services so I did not need one. Recent videos show some goods operations without the turntable. When this heatwave cools a bit I will produce a passenger service video - its too hot in my railway room!! .. David
I think I've got the gist of what happens, but just in case the wiring diagram you so kindly could send, I'll request " permission " from my wife to use her Facebook , never know the answer might be yes!She does say I should have one .Richard
O.K. Richard, can't sort it today but I will put the wiring diagram on my facebook page 'Deresley' tomorrow. Hopefully it will clarify everything for you - David
Thanks Tony, much appreciated. I bought a 12in (300mm) lazy Susan ring so I cut the baseboard a little over this to allow for the wall thickness, and, of course the Peco turntable. Hope this helps - David