Make Pants that FIT from Scratch - Trouser Block Tutorial | LYDIA NAOMI

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If you want to make all types of pants this summer its helpful to create a basic pattern foundation (Pant/Trouser Block) that fits YOUR unique body shape perfectly! I am taking you through the trouser block creation, your ticket to all kinds of styles of diy pants.
I am referencing my fashion school textbook Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen-Joseph Armstrong. I referenced the trouser foundation on page 573. I have altered its directions based on my personal experience and what I think will be more understandable for you. www.amazon.ca/Patternmaking-F... (It's a textbook so its pricey, I just got the kindle version which is way more affordable)
Dart intake chart from Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen-Joseph Armstrong: drive.google.com/file/d/1A4T0...
I also referenced Alexandra Morgan's hipline dip tip ;) She has a lot of comprehensive tutorials for fitting pants. • Fitting Pants The Crot...
I hope you enjoy!
PDF patterns Shop: www.lydianaomi.com/
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Instagram: lydianaomistudi...
Tiktok: vm.tiktok.com/ZMe9rUEKG/
How to Pattern Draft in Illustrator: • Create Patterns in Ado...
0:00 Intro
0:55 How to Measure your Body for Pants
2:28 How to Build the Pant Block
3:29 Dart Intake
4:22 Crotch Curve Guides
4:53 Finishing Darts and Waistline
5:26 Establishing the Grainline (also known as Creaseline)
5:41 Hem Width, Inseam and Outseam
6:20 Compare your crotch length with the block crotch length
6:43 Sample 1 + Adjustments
8:17 Constructing Your Fabric Sample
9:42 Sample 2 + Adjustments
11:07 Walk the Pant Pattern
12:31 Sample 3 and Final Comments

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Опубликовано:

27 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 304

@ml_haskell3854 5 месяцев назад

THANK YOU!!! I've never seen this drafting business. For forty years, I've hacked away at a Kenmore machine that belonged to my mother, and I had no idea that there is a way to do this that is simple, elegant, and logical. What's more amazing is that I will be able to do it using stuff I already have: tissue paper from CVS, a bedsheet retrieved from my donate pile, a tape measure, and a good pair of scissors. I had to look up 'balancing' a pattern--also brilliant! It explains why I looked like such a ragamuffin in the 80s, and not so much like Madonna or Cyndi Lauper. My plans now include making a SHARP pair of britches! Brava!

@Jadorelainie 3 года назад

This is so educational, if my brain wasn't so rejecting of math and measurements it'll be a lot easier hahaha. But thank you for these because they are so rewarding.

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Thank you Lainie! I am glad you enjoyed despite the math haha!

@lotter690 2 года назад

THANK YOU! My pants came out perfect after the 1st alteration. Your tip on the crotch length has been the key to many happy pants!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

CROTCH EXTENSION CLARIFICATION: The front extension is 1/16 of your entire hip girth. So if your hip is 40, divide 40 by 16 and that is how much your have to add for the front crotch extension. The back extension is 1/8 of your entire hip girth so, again, if your full hip girth is 40, divide 40 by 8 and that is your back crotch extension. It is correct in the video if you ignore the additional note I put on the screen in orange letters. Just remember that we are working with one side of the front hip and one side of the back hip, and for the front extension you would find a 1/4 of the front width of your draft and add that as the extension. For the back you would find 1/2 of the front width of your draft and add that as the back extension. Its the same thing as above just may be more confusing to some.

@jaehwyioniekiddos410 2 года назад

This is what im looking.

@jaehwyioniekiddos410 2 года назад

Thnkyou

@yvonnejoy7962 2 года назад

Thank you very much for this tutorial, I just found your channel as it pooped up I checked out the contents and I was impressed. You have a new subscriber.

@anatravagin5109 2 года назад

Hiya! I loved it. Can you show us how do you print your patterns? ❤️❤️❤️😘😘😘

@danarossa Год назад

I've been looking for this. Cause my extensions looked strangely big

@Hannah-lu9bd 3 года назад

I can't believe this tutorial exists. THANK YOU!!!!!!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

You are so welcome!!

@gloriac.266 3 года назад

dang how did you know I was looking for pant block tutorials o: thanks girl!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Yaay! so glad to help! More to come on pant fit and making pant patterns!!

@mrgarner4796 Год назад

Thank you for the 'Real' drafting and adjusting... and the 'why's'. Well done! Nice fit.

@severine7753 2 года назад

Fantastic video! So helpful to see your process… finally understanding what walking the seams means

@sklee1644 11 месяцев назад

I like the way you explained and fit it afterwards. Easy to understand. Love to see the continuation of the final pattern.

@sonjanordahl3158 9 месяцев назад

Love your little fuzzy helper!

@carolynkallenborn4390 Год назад

This is great! I was looking for something detailed and really getting into the fine tuning of fit. Beautiful!

@melissagibbs9690 2 года назад

Very clear tutorial, I will have to watch a few times to make sure I get the tricks that you've shown, as it takes me a while to grasp things like this. Thank you x

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@moniquemcgrath506 6 месяцев назад

0:48 omg lol bless.. thank you for the energy!

@damianwisz4772 8 месяцев назад

Thank you! I'm making my first pattern with this textbook and I've got quite overwhelmed with it. Seeing you make the samples and the extra tips clarified a lot to me!

@sandrataylor9122 8 месяцев назад

Your instructions were very clear. Good tutorial! Thank you!!!

@Donnadlongino 8 месяцев назад

Great explanations! This will be so helpful I getting the fit just right. Thanks for sharing all the details of the adjustments.

@kimberly8099 2 года назад

I appreciate this video so much. I followed this and the block came out perfectly first go. Thank you for sharing this info. I've tried many attempts at many different methods to make a personal pants block and gave up. Im on holidays and was motivated to try it again. I followed this tutorial and, for the first time, had great success. Thanks.

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

That is so awesome to hear! It’s so wonderful to have a pant block that fits!

@amadeagottlieb 11 месяцев назад

I did it! Wrapping paper, scotch tape, Crayola markers, a yardstick and a calculator were all I had on hand when I watched your video and the light bulb came on. I never understood drafting a pants pattern until you explained it. Thank you!!

@LydiaNaomi 11 месяцев назад

That's so amazing! I'm happy to hear it!

@dusoares27 2 года назад

Omg this is THE BEST vídeo, it has everything that I wanted to understand about making a trouser. Thank you very very much

@AlisonBoncha 3 года назад

Thank you for walking through the process! It looks like you also digitize your pant block so you can print it out...walking through that process would also be amazing! 🤩

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Yes I actually built the pant block in illustrator from scratch then printed out each adjusted pant block! I do this with all my patterns :) I will definitely go through this process at some point!

@riqueoropeza271 3 года назад

@@LydiaNaomi pleaseeeee walk us through it I’d def subscribe that would be so helpful

@littlehouseinthebigapple5716 3 года назад

Omg…. That would be amazing! I know it’s probably a big bother to film yourself doing this, but it would be amazing to learn how to do!

@Neko-gm1zp 4 месяца назад

Thank you so much for this video. For some reason I struggle with understanding the trouser patterns and no one explains it well enough for complete beginners so this was helpful!

@sonjanordahl3158 9 месяцев назад

Thank you so much for this video. I want to start designing my own pants this is incredibly helpful.

@melaniearden998 Год назад

This is great! Thank you, Lydia. ❤

@saranilssontorstensson8793 2 месяца назад

I´m super excited! Thank you so much!

@kaytiej8311 Год назад

This is excellent. Thank you for making this make sense!

@glitzyeyezz5252 15 дней назад

I followed your video and got a fit that is 90% accurate. Thanks to you. My brain went 🤪 for a while and then came back to life for the rest of the video 😅 Thankfully I noticed the extension comment and corrected.

@pamroberts9218 3 месяца назад

I absolutely love your top! Great content. Thank you!

@cheekypigg 2 месяца назад

Thank You for this detailed tutorial! I’m going to order my supplies so I can make these at home!! I’m so excited

@remainschloe Год назад

Yes! Detailed display of measuring. That part always do me wrong. 😂 Thank you thank you!

@mz.kookie8557 3 года назад

Very detailed but I need a beginner “extremely beginner friendly” version 😞. My brain fogged up after the waist to hem measurement😭

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

I will do a more beginner version for sure!

@n.b.3247 3 года назад

Yes please! I’m a beginner too and would love that 🙏🏻 thank you!

@chouchoue 2 года назад

The front and the back have a straight line going down the middle of the leg and you have distances from there. The crotch is like a circle but the "middle part" is brought toward the front. So that "dip" you see, it connects into a half circle and goes under the crotch. Then you need darts, usually mid way in front and back to gather fabric to accommodate the shape from the wide hips to the waist. It's harder to explain than understand. It's really simple.

@betsyborchers9320 2 года назад

Yes! I would love to see you actually do it in real time.

@magdagopaul5225 Год назад

Please revisit this video, a year ago I couldn’t understand a word she was saying or what she was implying but now I took it very slow, doing step by step and pausing the video before the next step, it just took a day of focus

@dalegreene5615 3 года назад

You amaze me with your skill.

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Wow thank you Dale! So happy to share what I am learning with you all!

@phls11 11 месяцев назад

Your video is so comprehensive😯 thank you for your sharing🥰

@jacindahernandez5173 3 года назад

Loved this!! I would love a tutorial on how to make your patterns digital! I never learned this in my apparel design program so that would be so helpful!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Thank you, I will be doing a patternmaking in illustrator tutorial soon!

@silverbracelet6 3 года назад

Super cool, kinda complicated and tedious but I can see why it's important to know when making from scratch. Thanks for the sharing this process 🤗

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

yeah! I feel like I could have simplified it a bit more by skipping all of those samples. If I had just measured my crotch depth I think it would have eliminated having to make soooo many samples! Let me know if you need clarification :) !!

@anokheejandhyala1074 9 месяцев назад

THANK YOU!!! Your channel is amazing

@sopranoxpiano3855 3 года назад

Wow this is amazing!! I feel like I might actually adventure into a custom pant like this now! 🤗

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Yes please do! I will have more videos in regards to pant fit and making pant patterns!

@ryanej.9284 Год назад

This was so helpful! Thank you so much for creating this tutorial. It is so empowering to have access to someone breaking this information down to start my own projects! I look forward to more content and AI pattern development videos soon!

@nisamniska5173 3 года назад

Thank you! It's such a great video, I really learned a lot!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@jeanne4281 2 года назад

It is really a great video, showing the fitting problems thank you so much

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@sydalairys6212 2 года назад

This is amazing!!

@vuyox 3 года назад

Thank you so much for this great content. Love.

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

You are so welcome!

@SeetalMD 3 года назад

finally its here! thank you babe. lots of love.

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Yes haha! More to come! So excited to make pants with you all!!

@comalley4825 3 года назад

excellent tutorial Lydia, thank you. I really scared of making pants but I want to try making a pair of jeans, so I'll have to get over myself and at least make a start with by making a few (million) toiles! Looking forward to seeing your final version. Catriona

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Thank you Catriona! I learned a lot and after editing I wished I could start all over and refilm it to make it more simple for you all! But I am excited to make pants for myself FINALLY!! And bring all of you along for the ride!

@ladysexyd 2 года назад

Thank You!!!!! I'M SO HAPPY FOR THS VIDEOS I BROUGHT MYSELF A BOOK FOR DESIGNING ,BY HELEN JOSEPH ARMSTRONG VERY GOOD BOOK BUT IT IS NOTHING LIKE WATCHING YOU DO THE PANT BLOCK FROM SCRATCH YOU ARE VERY HEPFUL IN ALL YOUR VIDEOS. I HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS EVERYDAY TAKING NOTE. I FOUND YOU HERE ON YOU TUBE NOV.22,2021 , AND I AM SO HAPPY I DID.

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Welcome Darlene! Thank you for watching!

@equinox9598 3 года назад

This is so well explained and this was also fun to watch! Gonna binge your other videos now. ;)

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Aww thanks 🙏🏽

@MvSh6520 3 года назад

You’re the best! Thank you!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

I hope you enjoy! let me know if you need any help!

@bowardwoward 3 года назад

SO helpful and easy to follow!!!!!!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

So happy it was helpful for you Betsy!

@Bruh-pl1cj Год назад

Watching from Malaysia. Thank you so much.

@radostinageorgieva632 Год назад

Best pattern making tutorial I have followed! At some point I wasn't sure what I was doing and some of the measurements got me confused but the final result fits like a glove from the first try! The only thing I need to adjust is to move the back dart a bit. THANK YOU!

@LydiaNaomi Год назад

Oh that is awesome to hear! So glad it fit like a glove!

@littlehouseinthebigapple5716 3 года назад

This was amazing!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Thank you!

@ruthdorsey8764 2 года назад

Hello I'm a beginner your tips were so very helpful and I'm feeling more confident with your measurements..

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Yaay thats great!

@saraumar2745 3 года назад

You r super talented sis. Love all your videos. keep rocking ❤️❤️❤️

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Thank you so much 😀

@danazakzok8431 3 года назад

YAYYYYY IM SO EXCITED!!!!!!!!!!

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Yaaay lets make pants together! Let me know if you need any clarification for the tutorial!

@lizy8940 2 года назад

Love this

@oluwasumbolaaluko6322 4 месяца назад

Lovely tutorial Thank you

@LydiaNaomi 4 месяца назад

Glad you liked it

@sarahvee6211 2 года назад

This is so helpful omg thank you so much

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Yay so glad to here!

@_vrocks Год назад

This was amazing! I haven’t tried it yet but the video looks so concise and to the point. And I also appreciate the visuals from both the digital pattern and your try on mistakes. Thank you! Do you have a video like this for tops?

@emilyrosenzweig9946 10 месяцев назад

Super super helpful!!!

@uzmaagha4203 Год назад

Brilliant!

@GoingGreenMom Год назад

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

@jaehwyioniekiddos410 2 года назад

Thankyou so muchh

@vanessaarmstead5444 2 года назад

I just discovered you...thank you I think I can do this.

@ashs5032 2 года назад

I had to rewind several times because I got distracted by that cute void cat on the screen haha. Even with that though, and I serious lack of knowledge, it was easy enough to follow. So thank you sincerely!

@maythu1739 2 года назад

Very detailed. I love this video and your sweet voice. Your cat is very cute too!

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

aww thanks so much May!

@kmb1600 6 месяцев назад

Have invested at least 56 hours into drafting the perfect foundation pant. After about 4 muslin drafts, Helen Joseph, and the vogue sewing book I'm here. Be back to let you know how it goes.

@sarathchandra3831 2 года назад

Thank you very much

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

You are most welcome!

@pietra.mp4 2 года назад

you are such a sweetheart, love your voice, so talented!!! 💙💙💙 beautiful

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Thank you so much!!

@pamkenniston2128 День назад

This was somewhat helpful since i just purchased this book and have no pattern making experience. However, more explanation about what and how to walk the pattern - especially if you do not have a computer program available - would be valuable, if this is a necessary step.

@user-kr1sd4cl3n 6 месяцев назад

KITTY!!!!

@preciousstyles6029 Год назад

I had to watch the video twice because the first time I couldn't see anything else except the cute cat.

@LydiaNaomi Год назад

bahaha thats adorable!

@Annsfashionstudio 3 года назад

Great video. Your drafts look really good. Would love to see more on how you make a pattern on illustrator.

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Thank you! Stay tuned, i will be doing an illustrator tutorial in a few weeks!

@Annsfashionstudio 3 года назад

@@LydiaNaomi That is wonderful to hear!! THank you

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BmwV7glYDU8.html this is my new video on how to draft on illustrator, dropping at 2pm May 26 EST

@Annsfashionstudio 3 года назад

@@LydiaNaomi thank you so much. (The new video is private )

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

@@Annsfashionstudio Yes its dropping today at 2pm EST May 26 :D

@iregretcommenting 6 месяцев назад

Is there a part 2 or video showing the final product? This was super helpful and makes me a lot less scared to try making pants!

@fehmidanoorani8667 Год назад

Thanks ma'am

@fehmidanoorani8667 Год назад

Waiting for your next clip

@daseineschaf 2 года назад

I just drafted my pattern today and your tutorial was really useful and clear! Thanks a lot :D I just had major issues with the crotch fit, it was waaay to big!

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

You may have got my extension confused. The front extension is 1/16 of your entire hip girth. So if your hip is 40, divide 40 by 16 and that is how much your have to add for the front crotch extension. The back extension is 1/8 of your entire hip girth so, again, if your full hip girth is 40, divide 40 by 8 and that is your back crotch extension. I need to correct that in the video.

@daseineschaf 2 года назад

@@LydiaNaomi oh yes I think I used the double of these... Thanks for the help!

@dunjam.3250 3 месяца назад

Great Tutorial, I really want to try this because finding the perfect trousers seem impossible 😅 hopefully I won’t loose motivation during assembling as a beginner 😂

@LydiaNaomi 3 месяца назад

You can do it!

@umzionline Год назад

Loved the video. Can you please explain the process for plus sizes with bigger stomach area and smaller back. Thanks

@beatrizhernandez7090 2 года назад

Traducción al español x favor, gracias x compartir, excelente explicación!!

@zeehuss7275 9 месяцев назад

Ive seen so many pant tutoriaks and I keep coming back to this video coz it covers everything. very very perfect and professional. I've a question.. If someone don't wear their pants on waist, and prefer a little bit lower, do I still have to draft it from waist?

@LydiaNaomi 9 месяцев назад

I think you could draft from lower but it's easier I think, to draft from the waist then just measure down on each line however much you want to lower the waist. That's what I do ☺️

@SeetalMD 3 года назад

Ok f it! I’m going to try this!!!! Trying to being productive here

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

YOU CAN DO IT!!! 👏🏽🙌🏽🥳

@ryanej.9284 Год назад

Could you possibly so a qucik video on the best way to set you Illustrator toolbar up for the most streamline process of working?

@glittergwyn 8 месяцев назад

This was really detailed and I'm going to try drafting this. The place where I'm currently learning, keeps front and back the same and i know from just looking at existing pants that the crotch length fr front and back has to be diff, so I'll try this. I wanted to know whether adding a waistband (abt 1.5 inches) affects this drafting. Shld we measure crotch length from top of waistband or excluding it.

@MrAlexandraJane 3 года назад

Wow, this is amazing and EXACTLY what I've been looking for, I could cry from happiness. How do you determine what your dart intake should be? I'd like to make a trouser block for myself and my boyfriend so I imagine they will be very different haha

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

I am so happy this is helpful to you! Let me know your waist and hip measurement and I will tell you the dart intake suggestion 😊

@MrAlexandraJane 2 года назад

@@LydiaNaomi My natural waist is 33", my high hip is 41.5" and my hip is 43.5" (sorry it took so long to get back to you! And thank you!)

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

@@MrAlexandraJane you have a 10 inch difference so you can do the same dart widths as me. Since your high hip isn’t too far off your hip you may find that shortening the darts a bit may help. But you’ll have to test it first :)

@latoyawarren3036 Год назад

Hi Lydia. Could you pls assist further with determining dart intake pls. I love this video! Thank you for your time and effort in sharing your wealth of knowledge 😊

@LydiaNaomi 11 месяцев назад

Here you go :D drive.google.com/file/d/1A4T0g4FDc2ThZWVS_XtbggZnCJWPjcts/view?usp=sharing

@Captain5mmhook 2 года назад

Hi Lydia! Thank you for the amazing tutorial. I love math and this made a lot of sense. Can you please explain how to figure out the length and the angle of the darts?

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

OH that is awesome that you love math! I like it but I am not that great at it beyond simple math haha. What is the difference between your hip and waist measurement?

@Captain5mmhook 2 года назад

@@LydiaNaomi thank you for your reply! It’s approximately 25 cm.

@nupuii1101 3 года назад

Good post

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Thank you!

@elementgypsy 2 года назад

I have tried to make a good pants pattern before, but now that I sew better I really want a good pattern for me with the darts. I want to make wool lined trousers, pajamas, wide leg beach pants and shorts. I never get the back butt right and crotch. I also still have trouble with shape of sleeve cap. I love sewing!!! Getting better.

@ragivyas8292 2 года назад

Love the tutorial! Could you please help me calculate my dart intake? I have no idea how to do it? :)

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Sure! What is the difference between your waist and hip circumference?

@user-px7nh7vs4b Год назад

Great tutorial. I wonder if scopping out the crotch might help instead of adding more to the crotch line.

@eshamaharaj9372 3 года назад

Love your top ,show us how to draft pattern thank you

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

Coming soon!

@j0nayblade 2 года назад

wonderful video, I am currently in the process of making pantalons that can accommodate suspenders. the modern clothing retailers within my reach skip the bit between the waist and the hips (I think because its cheaper and men don't know how comfortable suspenders are). I think I need to alter a few things to this method (I need excess width for suspenders) but this video taught me many things. should result in a cleaner silhouette than altering an oversized pair by lowering the crotch(gaining height of the band/length of the rise). any recommendations on things that I should do different than the method in this video as I am making this for trousers worn by man?

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

so if I am understanding correctly you want a higher waist pant for suspenders? I think maybe mens trousers have less of a deep dart on the waist, it just all depends on your measurements. If you follow this according to your measurements you should be ok :)

@nupuii1101 3 года назад

Good pist

@LydiaNaomi 3 года назад

@TamTheTerrible 20 дней назад

Thank you for this detailed video, but what software did you use to draw up your pattern? I would assume doing this on actually pattern paper or just normal paper would be substantially more difficult.

@jobrown8146 Год назад

This doesn't "compute" for me. What you end up is 1/4 of the circumference for each section of the pants. My measurement from side to side is larger across the front of my body than across my back. Therefore I think the measurement needs to be taken that way and then halved so that the back and front sections of the pattern is the actual measurement of that part of the body and not a quarter of the total measurement around the body.

@deborahkraft659 2 года назад

Thank you for this! I struggle with the front part of the crotch line. I get little diagonal lines upwards towards my hip. I guess it is too much fabric at some point and not enough at another? Or maybe I need to adjust the way the curve goes?

@LydiaNaomi 2 года назад

Yess its probably not a long enough crotch point, try lengthening it :)

@palmina77italiana 11 месяцев назад

I love this thank you so much :) Your NAME is gorgeous also ....will it be the next HIGH FASHION BRAND :) XO

@rana21679 Год назад

Really well done. If possible, I have a model that I am tired of and need your help to make the pattern. How do I send you the model... I will be thankful to you

@rosecraft70 Год назад

Thank you so much for this video 🙂 I really like to design my own clothes but I don't know how to start. Is there any book or course that can help me learn to draft patterns? Do you have any suggestions?