Another comprehensive explanatory video. You're full of them, aren't you? haha. ThanQ for being here for us, Nate! I must add that if I'm ever planting/transplanting a root bound plant, manipulating the root ball to loosen it and spread it out a bit always helps the plant know that it has more space to grow. The soil blocks promoting air pruning are the bomb, tho!
When ever getting a pot bound looping root, I take a sharp knife and cut the roots at N, S, E, & W, about an inch deep (making sure to completely sever the biggest, thickest roots). That stimulates the root system to start growing right away to replace the cut roots (that could end up strangling it if left in place). I started doing that when some 5 year old evergreen trees I had planted mysteriously failed to thrive. When I dug one up to see what the roots were doing, it was exactly as you described- the roots had not progressed beyond the original shape of the pot it came in. After that, I always bought bare root trees/shrubs whenever possible. Sometimes though, they simply aren’t available, so I have cut the roots as described (just the outer inch or so of the root ball) and I haven’t had a problem since. Sometimes, an old pair of pruning shears that you don’t mind dulling works better than a knife, but divide those outer tangled roots. The roots will respond with a burst of fibrous root growth in the six inches or so above the cut, then continue to send out feeder roots away from the original root ball within a month or so, but the original tap root will never regrow as far as I know.
Just last year I got introduced to soil blocks , and never going back to pots , plants grow way more roots , easier to water , healthy , although I will say this works for most plants. I’m actually been exploring growing cannabis out of them , I’ve had great results , one thing to keep in mind is add compost to your blocks , because it will feed that lady until boy or girls shows up , I had a test side by side one mixture had compost , other one didn’t . The ones that didn’t I am currently battling to get them healthier . I started with a 4” pot , you can be creative and stack em for more soil the roots will grab on . Hope this helps my cannabis growing enthusiast . Of course thank you garden Viking for the all great knowledge you put out . Nor cal in the house 🙏🏽
Thank you for the "short cut", it gets a bit overwhelming sometimes when trying to do everything "right". I feel like, in time, I could mix my own, life is so busy, I guess I needed someone to give me permission to skip a step...lol Seems ridiculous now that I typed it! Thank you for all you do!!!
yes my friend that's why I like to keep it simple for people because it can seem like way too much to handle when there's so much information thrown at you on the internet!!
Soil blocks are great, I started using them a couple years ago. One unexpected benefit is of them the ability to transplant small seedlings that would otherwise fall apart when handling them.
Hello, there. I just thought of something you may find interesting. (Literally, just thought of it while watching this.) If you have seedlings in your 2" blocks that need to go out, but it's still cold out there... they need to be up-potted, but if you don't want them to get root-bound... what to do? (I know there's a larger blocker, but it's expensive.) Here's what I just thought of: Use your red SOLO cups as soil-block makers. So, I would pack moist soil/compost mix (NOT seed-starting mix) into the Solo cup, then flip it to pop the soil out. Now I have a large cone-shaped soil block. Next, I would gently spray the bottom of my seedling's soil block and place it on top of the solo-cup soil-block and press them together. The roots in the small soil block will grow *down* into the larger block, continuing to air-prune at the sides, while allowing the seedlings to grow until you can take them outdoors. When you take these outdoors, you can lay them on their side and let the seedling bend up toward the sunlight and then you can plant them in a trench.
The most important corollary to air pruning is that it promotes fibrous root transformation in the proximal root. This works on most domesticated/cultivated fruits/veg that would normally not produce fibrous roots until much later in their growth. Fibrous roots are more adaptable to transplantation and this reduces transplant shock dramatically.
Zone 7B here, i already made my soilblock last week-end, work great. So much convenient. I still found old pot from 2 years ago in my garden from time to time
love my soil blocker these things are awesome. I grabbed the 8 off amazon while back its plenty heavy duty. I call seedling trays root ball binder\destroyer trays after trying them with veggies. Blockers are the way!
I used small seed cell trays this year for the first time, and will not do that next year. I will 100% use this method. I bought the block maker from your link! luckily I have some soil sieves from my bonsai days!
I have been making soil blocks for many years and found that making them far in advance and letting them dry is ok. I make many trays and stack them, ready for use as needed. Rehydrate with liquid fertilizer of choice. Experiment .
I was looking for some solution to reduce using disposables in the garden as much as possible. This looks truly great.I saw it only once on someone's video, but thought it was some diy. Will look for it for my garden definitely. Thank you!
Thanks again Nate, I bought a soil blocker last year, it's a total game changer, I use a mix of coco coir and soil from the forest, coco is very good at retaining moisture, maybe 30% mix.
yes you can use compost if its sifted fine enough... I wanted to keep it simple and accessible for most people and using compost can present some challenges if you're a beginner... I love this blocker its the best for all leafy green and flowers!!
Honestly, one of the most helpful parts of the video was you putting the second row of soil blocks in the tray, where you nudged the first row and we could see the blocks move. It's all well and good for different demonstrators to recommend levels of pressure for packing the blockers, but since we all have different senses of what light/medium/firm pressure is, seeing the consistency and characteristics of a good block is ultimately more helpful. Let's is know what to be aiming for, and thank you for that!
Sorry for all the questions. Can I just use straight compost sifted it is it better to add something else? I use potting soil but it's expensive in my country. There are several designs using homemade soil block makers. Using a cut can taped well to fit a block of circular wood with a nail or screw on top. Another method is using two PVC pipes that slide into each other one. The smaller PVC has a cap. Screw in top. Great idea for a great future follow-up video if you have time. :)
yes if thats all you have available then pure compost is great so long as its completely finished... you could add some coco coir for air flow I'm sure you have that in large quantity in Thailand
VERY late to commenting - hello from just outside Lafayette, Indiana! Just bought a 2" soil blocker, new method for someone who's been gardening 50 years. I was getting bummed with all these videos saying you HAVE to use 3/4" mini blocker first. And double bummed with all these special recipes. Green sand? Wool pellets? Huh? I make my own potting soil so wow (!) that I can use that. Thank you thank you!
absolutely my friend its so easy people just love to over complicate it put regular potting soil can be used and straight into the 2inch cubes... here's something I've learned thats important is to add about 10-20% worm castings to the mix after its sifted that really helps hold things together and limit fungi growth
Hello. I am a somewhat-experienced soil-block user and I have a recommendation for you. (Might be a couple.) First, I recommend you purchase one of the Micro-20 Ladbrooke soil-blockers and get *another* Mini-4 blocker with a set of the 3/4" square dibbles. (This is what I plan to do. You can switch the dibbles, but it's annoying as hell, so that having a second soil blocker is just much more convenient.) I use the Micro-20 blocker for all the tiny seeds like lettuces and celery, of course, which allows me to plant only the ones that sprout and put them exactly where I want them. I also use the Micro-20 blocker for all the easy medium-size seeds like tomatoes and peppers. Remember: You only need seed-starting medium for seed-starting. Once the seeds are germinated, you can up-pot them into any type of soil you want. So I only use seed-starting medium for the micro-20 blocks, then use regular soil or compost for up-blocking into the mini-4 blocks. I use the micro-20 blocks to germinate my tomatoes and peppers and when they are sprouting I up-block only the ones that do germinate. The rest can go in the compost. Nothing wasted. (OR I can up-block the ones that germinate first, set them aside in a different tray and label them as the fastest, earliest sprouts. This can be a seed/breed selection tool, for those that practice this sort of professional breeding program kinda thing.) With the micro-20 blocker I can put seed-starting into small domed containers I got from ordering chinese/thai food delivery. Make blocks in the container, pop in the seeds, sprinkle more soil on top, cover with the clear lid and stack on top of the fridge (or other warm spot) until they germinate. THEN I can easily up-block into the 2" blocks. About that Mini-4 blocker. When you add in the 3/4" square dibbles, you make blocks with a square hole that are exactly the same size as the 3/4" blocks made by the micro-20 blocker. So you make these 2" blocks and you drop in your newly-started seedlings. Easy-peasy. The reason for having two is you can work on soil-blocks for up-blocking and you can then work on blocks with a regular dibble for starting larger seeds, such as cukes, zucchini, melons, squash and pumpkins, peas and beans and corn... without having to switch the dibbles out every time. (This is why I intend to get myself a second Mini-4 blocker.) Of course, if your funds are scarce, save up for it... or do without. I'm saving my pennies and birthday money, waiting for a SALE. I think you'd find the addition of the micro-20 blocker and the square dibbles to be a fun and useful contribution. This is my recommendation based on my experience. Try it and I think you'll like it.
that is a wonderful recommendation my friend thank you for sharing!!... I actually do have the micro 20 also with the dibbles but that is a bit more "intermediate level" and that'll be for next years soil blocking video!!
You brought me back to my childhood demonstrating the water saturation of the soil mix. So perfect for the soil block is what was perfect for mud cookies. Got it!
One of the things that I really appreciate about your videos is that you demonstrate and talk about tactile learning in gardening. It has been the best learning tool for me. Now I know by touch what starting mix should feel like and I can tell what I mix is lacking in composition from touch, too. Your tip to learn through muscle memory (picking up the trays) for watering seedlings is some of the best advice I've ever listened too. You are an excellent teacher and I thank you!
I really like your technique. Would you do a video showing us how do you keep the blocks moist during the process also how long do you keep them inside until you transfer them to your garden/ground? Thank you in advance!
Fort Waynian here. Honestly bro you started your channel right when I went down the path of jadam and more self input type gardening. You have the best channel with the most concrete simple information without the fluff. Soil blocks seemed so complicated after reading all the books and recipes and is why I have never ventured into it. But you take out the bull crap. And I really appreciate it. Keep on keeping on man. Blessings
thanks for tuning in my friend!... yes I see so many topics wildly over complicated when they don't have to be... thats really what drove me to start this channel... because I've been doing all this stuff for some time now I know its really quite simple!
The main difference in our gardening techniques is the materials we work with, and what we harvest in the end. You work with earth soil, while the soil I work with is the mental (spiritual); you use seeds of many things to plant in your garden, while my seeds are words and / or images to grow in the mind; your harvest is edible and nourishes the body, while my harvest is co.llected by the universe... In this material world, you are a more effective gardener, whereas I am almost an obsolete gardener so to speak. You are doing much for humanity, especially in these troubled times which are about to clobber humans... Best blessings to you.
Hey brother a big shout out from southwest Indiana I work for the daughters of charity seton farm in Evansville it’s a 17 acre 100% organic csa thank you so much for letting everyone know how important our soil food web is and how harmful commercial agricultural is to our soil god bless
hello my friend so happy to hear of a 17 acre organic CSA in Indiana and especially that you are conscious of the soil which is the foundation of everything!!!... If you guys ever wanted to do a day long "seminar" where I can show everyone how to make the best fertilizers and why it is most effective, or to make the microbial solution, etc just let me know I'd be willing to do that for sure!
I am loving this channel and Nate's dedication has been very insightful and inspirational. I have seen much improvement in my fruits and vegetables along with an improvement in my potting soil. Well done Nate and best wishes to you. Jason from Melbourne Australia.
I've always used fine soil in tiny trays then move to solo cups once they have 2nd set of leaves until I transplant into the garden. The goal has always been to get them root-bound. Haha. Live and learn.
My problem with plastic containers, is that I tend to transplant earlier than I should because of all the things you discussed with what happens to a plant left in the plastic container for too long. The soil blocker gives you the opportunity to develop the plant a little more before you plant it. I'm going to try to talk my girlfriend into buying one for my birthday. I've been looking at them all winter and thinking about them. Thanks for the video.
I’m putting that soil block tool into my arsenal 👍 Great info as usual Nate! Do you ever plant the seeds from your previous harvests like the Poblano peppers?? Asking for your friend - me 😁
I use the double cup method to trick the roots into thinking they have much more room as they venture out from the inner cup into the outer. Works pretty good. I want to try the blocks next year.
Thanks, been gardening for a number of years. Have always thought I'd make my own blocks but then wedding time rolls on and I'm not ready! Going to order the soil block right now!
I made the seeds pots with banana leaves. When it grows, the roots of plant tears the banana leaves as well as it is decomposed. Then I could plant into bed directly. Lots of benefits, I am getting from that. I just shared this with you.
Love the video I use fox farm brand also it is more expensive then some brands , I’ve used several different brands over the years trying to save money but I think fox farm is worth the money. I will be using only Fox Farm Happy Frog this year . Looking forward to Saturday the best day of the week 🌞
I plant once and transplant once like you. Unlike you I use beverage containers for starting my seedlings in. The beverage containers are 6 inches deep and no root bound after the peppers are 18 inches tall and tomatoes 23 inches tall, and I see growth in my plants in days after transplanting . You are right about labels
Southern Michigan, love to come check out and get some hand on knowledge, you should look into hands on classes for jadam and such I can watch and listen and read all day but until I do I don't remember and haven't learned
Great recommendation on the soil blocker. I decided it was time to get it. I’ve used seed starting trays for a couple of years now and they’re ok but after using fabric pots successfully to grow several things I’m learning to value of air pruning of the roots. The plants have done so much better when that concept is involved. I’m grateful for your advice on many things (especially the JLF and bought the book on it as well). My garden has vastly improved since employing these techniques into it. Thank you!
I had always thought those blocks were too much work, and I understand about root bound and root pruning as I used to plant in cloth grow bags for the root pruning, but your vid has convinced me to start those blocks. Gonna get the whole setup for next year and plan things better while I continue to build soil and grow what I can. You are amazing!
Looks so easy. Hope you show more on how they hold together after seeds sprout. Thanks Nate. BTW. All the seeds you've started in the red cups, are you worried they will suffer root problems?
no I am not worried because I know exactly how much to water and they have everything they need in the correct proportions... its the beginners that often have issues with the root rot
Great vids! I have a question on a similar topic. Planting bare root fruit trees; what fertilizer/soil treatment would you put on a tree when you plant? I have some LABS ready made, and I would guess the bacterial tea would be a great one. Are the fish fertilizers too nitrogen rich for a first year tree? Thanks
the tree doesn't require as much immediate nutrition as our veggie crops because they grow in different ways... make sure you add some good compost or a few shovels of aged manure into the hole when planting... then keep it well mulched at least 3 feet around the base of the tree... then add a few applications of the microbial solution along with the fish or the grass liquid fertilizer together at the same time spaced a few weeks apart...
Great video as usual. I've had incredible results using KNF solutions with soil blocks.I know you prefer the Jadam version of KNF (I love and use both) but I don't think the anaerobic inputs would be ideal with this. I start with a seed mix that's chemical fertilizer free prefer sterile. Using rain water I add FPJ 8mls BRV 8mls OHN 4mls WCA 4mls WCAP 4mls humic acid 8mls per gallon and a light dusting of IMO4. I soak the potting mix with that and make the blocks. The results are amazing. When I transplant outside it's plugging a microbial diverse block into a microbial diverse garden. The plants produce enormously.because they immediately connect to the entire functioning system.
yes I agree and thats a great combination and thats actually closer to what I use myself... but the channel is not ready for all of that yet so I'm just kind of being quiet as to what I'm actually feeding them for the most part because I don't want to intimidate or confuse the beginners which is the main viewership...
Have used a soil blocker in past, but now that I have a greenhouse and sell quite a few plants, I haven’t figured out how a customer can easily/safely transport plants in blocks. Side note. I’ve used Baker Creek pepper seeds last two years, and absolutely horrible germination (on a heat mat)
I'm using those expanding pellet seed starters that are held together with a "degradable" net. Mostly because that's what I had. My family went and picked up two 72 pellet seed starting kits so why not, you know?
I don't understand how air pruning will occur when those blocks are so close together that they're mostly touching each other. Can someone explain this?
How do you water the block before the seed has germinated, are you just hitting the top with a light spray from a squirt bottle or something similar? I ask because those peppers can take a while to germinate.
Hi Nate! I started using a soil blocker last year and have had great luck, for the most part. This year I seem to be overwatering as some of my blocks have turned green. How often do you usually water your blocks?
its very important to go by feel and this video here will explain exactly.... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HBWQvkzTvuw.html ... also sometimes that just happens no matter what because the mold and fungi spores were already in the soil.... water with a LABS solution 3oz per gallon of water
