The RFID stickers. I'm thinking of buying a Bambu X1C, so I must investigate adapting 3rd party filament rolls to the AMS system. Or is that one for you to do? 🙂
Really amazing content, never thought about NFC! I often design educational models, so being able to link to digital lessons is amazing. Some of my favorites: 1. Aluminum extrusions and threaded/smooth rods aren't just great for printer kits, they're also amazing to enhance weak printed plastic with a bit of a "spine". 2. I also like to use metal (jewelry box) hinges, bowden tube with wire (to transmit motion), and occasionally some wing nuts. 3. I sometimes like to use IKEA for parts, because people worldwide can source a metal "HACKÅS knob" or the textile from a "MAJBRÄKEN pillowcase", and replicate the same design that way.
Hey, what kind of educational models do you make and do you have a link to some place where I can see those? I'm interested in the possibilities of 3d printing for educational purposes
@@thenextlayer Actually the first coming to mind to use NFC-Chips for: If you have multiple printers with klipper, just put NFC-Chips there. As soon you hold your phone there, the webinterface of this printers fluid site apears... So comfortable, the printers do not even need any display.
I just ordered most of what you suggested (minute the fans, thermal switches, and weights because I have that stuff already.) From alliexpress I was able to order an assortment of m2-5 screws, nuts, washers, lock washers, m2-4 heat inserts, 50 nfc tags, a couple hundred magnets (I'm a heavy magnet user), 30 608 bearings, a spring assortment, for around 130 canadian. Given what it would cost to source these all localy, i'm pretty pleased with the price. They'll be here hopefully by the first week of october. Had I ommited the magnets, it would have been under 100 bucks. Thanks for the video, I've been meaning to stock up on hardware because I keep over-paying locally. The list was a helpful place to start and just overcome my analysis paralysis.
It would be cool to see a comparison between the different software's. I personally use a combination of: fusion360, blender, mesh mixer and 3D Builder. it would be interesting to see some more about on shape since I have never used it, and I'm very curious to see what it can do and how easy it is to use. Awesome video I really enjoyed it, very helpful.
Most of the classic parametric CAD programs are quite similar to use, so just go for it Onshape is great tbh and its also free to use/try. I tried a lot (Soliworks, SolidEdge, Catia, Creo, OnShape,.....) and think the interface is a bit different and things might be called differently but you'll quite quickly learn to use a new one. I feel like "free form programs" like Blender, 3DSMax, Maya, Rhino, Z-Brush are more different in usage between each other.
Upvoted, a software comparison would be nice. I tried several programs and then settled on FreeCAD because of its versatility and its amazing capabilities with Python. I also wonder why this Fusion360 is so popular?
You should get an angle grinder; the corded ones are pretty cheap, cutting and grinding wheels are pretty cheap, and for cutting something like 1/2" rebar they're definitely better than wearing out your diamond cutting Dremel wheels on. But great content, you provide a lot of tips most people don't consider
8:10. I’ve been using this for YEARS but it used to only work on android. I would have a sticker in my cars inside door jamb and whenever I changed oil or did any repairs I would tap it and update the info so it was always there ! It was AWESOME :)
Thank you. You reminded me of a colleague from decades ago, a South African electronics guy. He had worked for a company in SA that made ghetto blaster radios (if you are too young to know what that is, google is your friend 🙂 . The Bill of Materials for the ghetto blaster include "House brick, qty 1" I'm a retired electronics engineer. When I retired I started buying components, all cheaply on eBay. I now have a collection of transistors, chips, resistors, Arduino sensor module etc etc that would make some development labs look under-resourced. All, of course, stored in a 3D printed drawer system. There's not much I can't do in the space with my "in stock" range. Once in a while I may get some substandard parts. But I have the skills to test and recognise, and usually correct for it in my designs.
Other nifty things you can strip out of junk are LEDs, switches, potentiometers and audio jacks. If you have a Daiso near you, they have nifty cheap storage containers if you are yet to go the gridfinity route. Also as always great vid!
6x2 6x3 8x2 8x3 and 10x2 and 10x3 are the most common sized magnets i come across while 3d printing. i have pretty much everything u mentioned in the video. with as much stuff as i have an as long as ive been messing with it now i should really start making my own videos like this.
@The Next Layer, just FYI - the black bolts you have likely are not 'anodised', unless they are made of Aluminium. Anodising is an Aluminium process, not a steel process. You cannot anodise anything iron based. If you have steel or stainless bolts which are black, the term is not anodised, they are just black oxide bolts - which is sometimes called blackening. Just so you know.
thanks for the recomendations, i am just starting my own collection of nuts and bolts, was forgetting washers, my budget is small but slowly i make it grow so i can grow my starting 3dprinting business
This really helps the thought process for practical, useable, creative uses for 3D printing. I am new to the hobby and as I recently remarked to a friend, there are probably 200,000 ready designs available to download, but how many Mandolorian figurines does a guy really need. Give me ideas and designs for things for grown-ups. Things I can’t easily or cheaply find as close as the nearest store. I’ve created a couple of items and already appreciate the process of designing things from scratch. CAD software is a heavy lift at first, but totally worth it. Carry on!
Fan tip. Corrugated wire loom its normall sold with a split for installing around wiring for chafing but it is available solid nonsplit. Larger fan isolated from printer hung on wall whatever. Use a relay if it has too much draw. But you can flow a ton of air by printing a duct for the fan and pushing the air through this cable loom which moves easily and get the mass off your servo.
I discovered fishing weights of all sizes at a sporting goods store that focused primarily on fishing and hunting (not ball sports or camping) I needed those weights for my son's pinewood derby car. I also collect fastener hardware, which I have used to weigh down model railroad cars to keep them from jumping the tracks
I am also going to suggest keeping some nylon stop nuts on hand. I just did a design where something hand to be held together but not tightly. The bolt with a nylon stop nut served as a friction pivot
I recently came across a need to add some weight to a bunch of prints for an event I was throwing. I needed to print a bunch of medals to give to all the guests that were attending. So I asked my family for ALL their pennies. It worked out splendidly. I embedded 14 pennies in each medal with a bit of Elmer's glue to keep them from moving and rattling inside. Just like most tire balancing weights, they are made mostly of zinc and add a surprising amount of weight to the print but it comes out much cheaper.
only got into 3d printing last week and im slowly working through your back catalogue. love your videos and some of the ideas they have given me ive only got a weefun tina 2 s but already ordered a new neptune 4 plus so cant wait to try some of the larger builds
It's surprisingly easy to make your own springs, and an assortment of few lengths of different size spring steel wire are pretty cheap. I'll bet there are some cool 3d printed spring winding tools that would make a good video.
Johnathan, I enjoy your videos so please allow me to share some of my knowledge in return. Bearing Numbering [Simplified]: Example part number 608-2RS 6 [First number: Bearing Type] = Single Row Deep Groove Ball Bearing 0 [Second number: Dimensional Series Classification] = Diameter Series 0, fD=0.84 8 [Third/Forth number: Bore Series (inner hole)] = 8mm -2RS [Additional Symbols after dash: Auxillary Numbers+Symbols] = 2 Sided Rubber Seals So your 608-2RS bearing is a common radial bearing that uses balls in a groove as the rolling element, with an inner diameter of 8mm, has the most common outer diameter and thickness for a typical 8mm bore bearing, and comes with rubber shields to cover the rolling balls on both sides. Bearing numbering schemes are controlled by the engineering regulatory bodies of the region. In this case ISO. ISO has charts that denote what each number in each position indicate. They are not as simple as 8 means 8mm bore in most cases, which is why they appear random. For the second, third, and forth numbers, they will involve formulas and charts to calculate standard bearing dimensions. I am a practicing engineer and this is the reference document I prefer for identifying ISO symbiology for common bearings. It can assist you with finding the same bearing but with perhaps metal seals instead of rubber: 608-2Z or 608-ZZ www.nsk.com.br/upload/file/nsk_cat_e728g_1.pdf Regards,
Great video! Thank You! A tip for weights: Lead is far heavier than steel, and will take up far less space for the same given weight. Simply visit any fishing tackle shop, sporting goods store, or big box store that sells fishing tackle. Lead fishing sinkers come in weights from 1-1/160z to several pounds. They come in a wide variety of geometric shapes lending many options for 3d printed cavity shapes that are helpful to make clean, solid streamlined designs without rattling or shifting.
always having to cut my bolts to length, so ive started buying longer assorted packs along with the ones with shorter ones an they save me over all the time. an i always thought the zz rs at the end of a bearing number was to identify the tolerances they was made to but i could be way off on that an they have another way of identifying that. the biggest thing that helped bring my prints to a higher quality was me buying a lathe an a small benchtop milling machine, now i make metal parts to go along with the 3d printed parts an it introduced me to a new set of tools that have made my life 100% easier. if u do alot of cutting i used to use my dremel or if the dremel wasn't enough a angle grinder with a cut off wheel so pretty much just a bigger dremel but pick up a portable bandsaw, best money ive spent, saved me so many hours in cutting steel with a hacksaw, i had one piece that i had probably cut on for at least 2 hours straight, was out of blades so was stuck with the last one i had an after about 2 hours of it i just gave up went on amazon an ordered the cheapest portable bandsaw i could get 100 bux wasn't expecting much but its the best money ive spent an the cheap tool is actually pretty good an isn't the only wen branded tool i own an the brand i suggest if wanting to buy cheap but the fact i incorporated metal parts when i can that has help with the look an feel of the stuff i make an makes it feel an look more professionally manufactured.
if you live in canada they sell bulk assorted springs at princess auto 101 random springs for like $13. i bought one of their dual sided organizers and proceeded to sort what was far more then 101 springs per pack and all assorted.
The threaded inserts you showed are actually for injection molding. They don't hold as well as the ones specifically made for heat-set insertion (like the ones from CNC Kitchen).
@thenextlayer the better way to say "insert them evenly and straightly" would be "insert them, straight and even". Just a small point but things like this help a script to be delivered smoothly. All said, this was a great video, and I absolutely agree on your choices for essential hardware.
I want to actually become skilled and make my own 3d prints... But I'm apparently not very smart- so I'd consume a video about what you use and what you use them for.
Another thing about T-Nuts. The ones that you showed are the "hammerhead" style that allow you to insert them into an extrusion slot without access to the ends of the slot. I'm not sure why they are called "hammerhead", but regular t-nuts don't have the radiuses on opposite corners allowing the t-nut to turn after inserting to engage with the undercut of the t-slot.
the springs, i've used pen springs as replacements for rusted out springs in old fashioned mortise lock sets. unless they're abused those sets will last centuries, but the springs will rust to dust.
I'm new to the realm of 3D printing and want to use it as a tool to solve some of the mundane problems I complain about or put up with. Already have a decent background in hobby electronics, so I should be unstoppable with all this info 😎 ....that is once I finally cave and learn how to use a decent CAD/modeling too for custom designs 😅 Please keep it up with the awesome content man!
I would definitely appreciate a video on different 3d design software, and furthermore, tutorials on how to use them. So far I've been getting by with Tinkercad, but it feels like it's limiting for even slightly more complex models. PS, I recently found your channel and have been loving the content. Thank you!
I think this is literally the only video that goes into this. My recommendation for weight would be a roll/offcut of lead flashing. Its soft, cuttable with some steel scissors, and can be layered up and moulded into a 3d printed part. Downside - it is lead and lead toxicity is a thing so internally in something functional for use by an adult - that's fine but you dont want it in a kids toy for example.
Another idea for weights. BB gun BBs can be useful and like fishing weights can be found at most any Walmart, Academy and most farm supply stores also bulk nuts and washers or nails from the home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot can be fairly economical in a pinch.
I keep friction-fit spring-loaded ball detents on hand for durable latches. I think it would also be great to embed metal hinges in 3D printed containers, but I haven’t tried it yet. They make some cylindrical invisible hinges for woodworking that might work great for 3D printing.
very cool video. Something that stood out is the spring section, you can buy piano wire and 3D print a spring maker and the use the piano wire to make your own springs, any size.
I have a recommendation that is similar to your idea of saving old screws and metal pieces for weight. I keep a medication bottle (the locking cap is good for safety) with all of my used x-acto, scalpel, and razor blades. They may be well past their usefulness as cutting implements, but they work wonderfully with items that need a metal point for a magnet to catch to. No space in a lid for another magnet on the other side? A scalpel blade is good steel, very slim, and easily covered over with a thin piece of polystyrene plastic or other surfacing material. I build models, so I have lots of styrene sheets around. Hope this is useful to someone.
I've been watching your videos for a few days now. You do a FANTASTIC job. This one was especially helpful to me, as I'm new to the world of 3D printing. Thanks.
I've found assortment packs of springs locally at my local Menards Home Improvement center, and at my local Harbor Freight tool store, I don't honestly remember how expensive either was but I'm pretty sure they were both under $20US.
M5 tnuts are also widely used. And the roll-in t spring nuts are much better and easier to use, altought more expensive. Also it's a good idea to keep some dowel pins around and steel rods of various sizes and diameters
In regards to weights... Im a welder by trade and can say that most weld shops have scrap bins with metal. Also that, if theyre anything like me, we already sort salvage so everything that ends up in that end bin is for sure not useful to us anymore.
The black bolts are not typically anondized. It is a black oxide coating that will eventually rust. So while I like the look of black oxide, I'll take the durability of stainless steel.
Correct. Aluminum can be anodized, either dyed or clear since the process converts the surface to aluminum oxide. Steel nuts and bolts with the black oxide surface treatment shouldn't be used in any corrosive (i.e. outside or wet) environment.
zz means metal shielded, rs means rubber sealed. zz isnt sealed but allows faster operation with less drag and heat but will still alot junk to get in them, rs is more of a slower speed in dirtier enviorments
I used fusion360 and am still learning with it, for moderate to difficult designs it’s fusion for simple tasks I use tinker, I’ve tried to use blender and honestly would rather just use a block of clay, because I can’t get the hang of it.
I just put in an order for 2 more 3510 fans, just so I can have a couple spare for my new H2 V2S Extruder, just because they aren't a standard one used often and spares are few and far between.
I'm learning to use Fusion 360.... it's...daunting. I feel like I'm close to being able to create something useful. So far I've gotten the equivalent of an ashtray....
I like the metal inserts but these days I see more and more self tapping screws. This would fit in more wholes if you only had a few diameter sizes and no need for a soldering iron. I the whole it to small a quick drill to widen it and then the self tap screw that’s slightly wider to thread in.
never feel bad about dumpster diving. businesses and people throw out amazing stuff. I have a real silver mirror w/ beveled edges that I found in the trash
great video. i have been looking for something like exactly like this. i live in a 3rd world country and have had to pay upwards of 700$ for shipping before. so this will help me so much. im new to 3d printing
Thanks for the list! This is a great video. You mentioned you aren’t good at programming, you might want to look at the arduino sensor kit, I don’t think most of them are good or useful, but there might be something there. You don’t need the arduino for many of them, the hall sensor or the reed sensor are two sensors you might really like; they can trigger without programming.
As far as nuts, bolts and hardware, I prefer McMaster-Carr over Ali express for a few reasons. The quality is better and selection of materials and finishes. Also for most fasteners a detailed CAD is available so you can get dimensions and load them directly into your Fusion 360 sketch for a perfect fit!
Couple of minor tweaks and clarifications: Cone headed bolts = flat head cap screws (typically), round head bolts = sockhet head cap screw bolts (typically), 'black anodized color bolts' = likely black oxide steel bolts. Very unlikely that you bought aluminum black anodized bolts - most bolting hardware is steel or stainless, with a very small chance that you bought the less capable (though admittedly lighter) aluminum hardware.
There's a few times while looking at a print halfway done that if the infill is spaced out enough, one could drop in weights or whatever while it's printing and they'd be secured inside.
14:25 sounds very interesting, but would appreciate a larger list. A few years ago I used Fusion360, but as my self-built low-end hardware was failing me along with moving to Linux for personal usage, I left the hobby behind for a few years. Now I am getting back into 3D printing, hence I found your channel and the software I have picked this time around is FreeCAD. Which has some weird quirks and strange design choices that make it tricky to get going with it, but after figuring those out, so far I am impressed with what FreeCAD lets me do. I will only receive my new printer halfway January, but I have great plans for rebuilding my old Hypercube printer and making some other mechanisms, which I think I can achieve in FreeCAD by slowly getting more familiar with it and continuing my ability built in Fusion360.
