Love your videos! One thing I have used to keep adhesive off of places I don't want, is a crayon. I just rub a crayon on the blade where the front of scales meets the blade. The epoxy won't stick to wax, and it makes cleanup a lot easier.
Thanks for the motivational and informational video. 1)What was the oven temperature? 2)How long did you keep it at the temperature? 3)The brass rod was 1/4-inch diameter. Was the hole diameter through the steel and wood slightly smaller for a tight fit? If so, how much smaller? 4)If you peened the pins, WITHOUT USING EPOXY, would you need a much denser (tighter grain) wood so the wood wouldn't tear off? Or, possibly pins and washers?
6:23 "...at least you know it can be done in case you're about to move to the wilds of Alaska..." Meanwhile, I'm watching this from Alaska. Clearly not from the wilds, due to using the internet, but still. Made me chuckle.
It can be done by hand with sanding sticks, starting with a low grit and working progressively to higher grits. Use the same motion you would when draw filing.
Could you do a video on how to grind or file in bevels ? I'm thinking about making my first knife by this method an I wanna have a general knowledge on how to grind or file in the bevels if you do it'll be greatly appreciated
Depends what the knife is for. A thin primary bevel helps to slice much thinner and more precise but a thicker bevel has more material behind the edge making it stronger for chopping stuff
That depends on the piece of wood you have (and, no doubt, on the species of tree it comes from). Some spalted wood is hard and solid; other specimens are soft and punky, or have a lot of cracks in them. (For new folks, “spalted” wood is wood from a tree infested by borer beetles. The beetles spread a bacterial disease that actually causes the spalting, which is a characteristic pattern of discoloration. The “figures” of discolored wood can be quite attractive in some pieces.)
@@carlos_akihito The best advice I can give is to look at the actual piece of wood and feel it. If it seems solid, it is. A knife handle doesn’t need to be terribly strong, especially if the knife has a full tang. It’s never going to have to bear a lot of weight or torquing stress. It can still split or shrink as the wood ages, but that’s not because it’s spalted; that’s just because it’s wood. By the way, spalted wood needs to be kiln-dried, to kill the beetles and bacteria that might still be in it. You don’t want to spread them around to living trees. If you get the wood from a lumber dealer, you won’t have to worry about this, but if you find a piece somewhere, you’ll need to figure out how to bake it in an oven or something like that.
For maybe two thousand years, people made knives with nothing but a fire, a hammer and tongs, an anvil (or a rock), and a file. You still can, if you want to. I mean iron and steel knives, of course. Before that, people made bronze knives, and before that, copper, and for many millennia before that, people made cutting tools by chipping stone, bone, antlers, or shells.
