Great tutorial. For those that don’t want to drill into the roof rack you can use an appropriately sized stainless steel pipe clamp to secure the turnbuckle. Just make sure the clamp is small enough that it’s really tight and won’t slip on the rack.
Great video. Thanks for the DIY instructions. Sad that after off roading for three decades of off roading I didn’t realize the limb rising value on narrow trails.
If the turnbuckle is crimped on like this, gotta make sure the lower crimped loop is big enough to thread that hardware through in order to make that slip loop (whatever it's called) around the bull bar. Good video man, appreciate it!
With all due respect, the hole that you drilled, yes, you might have sprayed it with rust prove paint, but rainwater can still get inside the tube of your roof rack from that tinny hole, and rust can form from inside. That's what happened to my Side Step Nerf Bar Running Board on my Pathfinder, water gets in from the little hole and the whole bottom part of my stepper got totally rusted from inside out, by the time I realized it was too late.
Thanks for the how to guide! These are really hard to come by for the Gladiator without paying an arm and a leg and almost a necessity on the trails in FL.
I may have missed it but did you mention how to position them fast enough apart to still open the hood? It would be a bummer to remove these every time you want to check fluid levels or a filter.
When you crimp the cable. It is called swaging. It might come in handy when you need to install new cable onto your wench. Don't know if you want that hydraulically swaged. And good call on the aircraft cable. The vinyl coating on it is handy I bet when you use your limb savers as hand holds.
i need this bad my F600 6x6 is huge and the windshield is also huge and relatively flat i have already had to replace it once i can't believe i never thought of this
Go to any garage door repair/ installation shop and they will have the tools/ cable supplies to make these up. Also, don't use plastic coated cable. For a crimp to hold properly, the individual wires need to be gripped firmly.
For the hole that you drilled on your rack. Should have put a "i" bolt (believe that is the correct name) through the rack and connect your turnbuckle to it. That away if you do hit a large section of branches the hook end will not act like a can opener on your rack. I did that to my rack then used weather type cocking to put around bolt and rack so no water seeps in.
Once you measure from your roof rack to the pushbar, how much extra length do you recommend for making the eyes, including the loop through you used on the push bar?
Rich Gann Well, I don't like eye bolts, just personal preference but I'm sure they are fine, and I don't want to drill or modify the ARB because it is rated for impact. I don't want to change its geometry in any way. Those are the only reasons.
Hey Mike, making my limb risers today, also wanted advice on what snorkel you recommend for a 2002 toyota 4runner SR5? Can't seem to find any exact fits
On the trail I could see that being useful, I think the issue with that though is getting the proper tension in the cable during installation. It would be very difficult to tighten as you are just pulling out the spring rather than tightening the cable, until you reach the end of the springs elasticity. Realistically the cable acts as a spring itself, so long as you tension it to have the proper amount of give. Like the string on a guitar it will deflect a certain amount based on the force applied, and either snap when the force is too great, or return to it's original position.
Great how/to video! Curious (as I look to build these for my FJC) why you chose to use the coated cables? And also how has the coating held up with time and use?
you can buy a cheap mechanical swage tool at home depot, for a very reasonable price, while I am not sure i would trust it for rigging, it has got to be miles above, using a hammer and screwdriver for the projects like this.
Overland bound member #0311 here, not sure if mentioned before but where did you purchase the cable from? I'm having a difficult time finding some round my parts, gonna try online.
I just bought some from tractor supply. I bought the 3/16 stainless steel raw cable. They did have carry the coated cable. Fortunately for me I do have a tone of tubing with a 3/16 I.D. to slip them through. Ironically making it myself cost $10 more than buying the "shittybuilt" kit. It was worth the extra $10 to be able to build my own and know for sure that I'm using true stainless steel cable and turnbuckles.
Anything close to an antenna will effect it. Most likely changing the SWR (standing wave ratio) and how efficient the system radiates power. However if your antenna is on the bumper/ bull bar it is already being effected, so these cables won't be noticed.
