Make Your Own Silicone Molds for Custom Bricks - Polytek Polyurethane Mold Rubber 

You are most welcome!

Thanks for the feedback! I'll be making a separate video on how I make my concrete mix and pour the bricks into the molds. This video was a lot to create as it was so I cut it there. For a large production, I would need to make several molds for each brick style. I can pour the molds twice per day at the most as they need time to dry between.

Do you have in interlocking clay brick molds?

I'm assuming that you mean you're trying to make something like a stamp. There would be two methods to do this. Easiest would probably be using a different kind of mold making product. The two part "putty" types of mold making compound that you need to knead and mix with your hands until the color is uniform and then press your object into or smooth on top of your object to capture the texture or shape. Those work best for making thin surface molds but are generally harder to deal with. There is also the technique of "painting" on the mold. However, that's a long process involving mixing small amounts of your mold making compound and literally smearing it on the object you want to mold in thin layers, waiting for each layer to cure to the touch before carefully painting on another until your mold is as thick as you need it to be sturdy. Your best bet is to use a method similar to what he explained, but before using the molding compound fill in the empty sides of the mold until you see as much of the sides of the object you're molding as you want. You can use whatever you want to fill in the sides, depending on how you want the top edges of your mold to look. Sand, clay, even the molding compound itself would work, but that last one would require a two step molding process of allowing the first part to cure before spraying or painting on more mold release and pouring the actual texture mold you want. ...And I'm done rambling now. Hope something in there helped you a bit. Good luck! 👋

Read the instructions. Some say to measure by weight, some say measure by volume.

Yes - I've used SS piano hinges on both the long sides attached to a base. On one of the long sides I fasten the ends using self tapping steel purlin screws and then use two piece chinese toggle clamps to lock both both of the parts together. On the plus side this method achieves good enough dimensional accuracy to do chinese bond brickwork and the brick can be demolded in seconds, after the the initial set, if cast on a ceramic tile. On the negative side using this design as an actual mold leaks so badly it needs modifying to act only as a mother mold, encasing a thin wall silicon casting mold as demonstrated here. I would need 100 silicon casting molds to complete my project, in a timely fashion, and perhaps 25 mother molds perhaps with an accelerator to speed up the initial set. I have a 4' X 4' vibration table to eliminate air bubbles in the mix.

On the negative side using this design as an actual mold leaks so badly it needs modifying to act only as a mother mold, encasing a thin wall silicon casting mold as demonstrated here. I would need 100 silicon casting molds to complete my project, in a timely fashion, and perhaps 25 mother molds perhaps with an accelerator to speed up the initial set. I have a 4' X 4' vibration table to eliminate air bubbles in the mix. (Had to post this in two paragraphs)

Molds however, are WAYY easier to work with, requires no unscrewing or re drilling, and super satisfying lol

Thanks!

Awesome idea!

😅

Would like to find interlocking brick molds in the US.

@@Life_Is_Hilarious How about adjustable molds for custom brick? Or a speciality company that sells only interlocking?

Yes, you can do that too.

Fun Life you kiln them, you have to look them up there are plenty videos on RU-vid

Great job

The mold can last for many many years. You can use the mold hundreds, and possibly thousands of times if you take simple care of it.

Nope. But they could be made this way.

Yes, you can definitely do that. Use the melamine board for rectangular bricks. I only use the silicone because I'm making architectural carved bricks mostly. I do create some for standard bricks too, but that is mostly for convenience and they will last forever.

Looks great.

Yes, absolutely! I forgot to mention that in the video. But these same type of molds would be perfect for making adobe blocks. I actually got the idea to make these from a video I saw of workers in India churning out adobe blocks at a rapid pace using silicone molds like this.

Awesome! Thanks!

Sixty years ago I made adobe blocks by pouring into plywood forms coated with used engine oil.

Don Duncan was it easy to do?

@@elizabethjudy6340 Yes. 1. Verify the sand/clay ratio is about 70/30. 2. Sift.3. Add water, emulsified asphalt or some waterproofing agent. 3. Pour into mold or mix very dry for ramming into form.

Yes, I think that would work. Just might be more messy, but I think it would work.

I used the same products on sale here in the UK. For speed, I needed TWO moulds of the same custom brick shape so I could make 4 bricks a day to speed up the build. Each house brick mould I made cost me £72.10 in Polytek 74-45 Liquid Polyurethane Rubber for (4 Kg) also the wood was £9.76 and the 5L mould release agent was £21.56 for the frame. I needed 94 custom shaped bricks to reline two entrances to two Old Terraced houses.

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Good point. Thanks for noting that. I got some particular type of clay with my silicone mix kits that I've been using. I guess its that sort of clay you're talking about.

Thanks!

It would also be a lot harder to make, so these work for my needs.

Yes, maybe. :) Its a lot of work.

@@thiscobhouse I appreciate your informative video. I need to replicate a hard rubber bushing for an older tractor/excavator that is no longer made. The bushing is sandwiched in between a female and male toothed plates and we can arrange them in the correct position and pour something to make the mold. The plates are hardened steel and by pouring a mold this way it will make ( I think ) a negative of the part we need and then we would use this and pour another mold conforming to this first mold ( hope this makes sense ). What release agent would suggest for the steel plates and then a release agent for this rubber mold to form a positive using a née pour. I really hope all this makes sense, we have the hard rubber compound to make our part, we just have to make a mould to do so, and unfortunately the part we need to replicate isn’t available as it has been destroyed from years of use. Any help or advice would be appreciated

Do you know if silicone would hold up as a concrete mold? I'm talking actual silicone and the caulking section at the hardware store.