Awesome this is just what I was needing. Ive finally pulled my finger out and flashed a sonoff with Tasmota (following your guides, thank you very much), once my lights etc are done heating will be next. My hard wired thermostat is in a rubbish place though, so I could do with a battery powered ESP for doing the temperature reading.
FWIW, I don't recommend that any thermostat/whole house heat control to be in an OFF position. Should the house cool to the point of freezing, you run the risk of freezing pipes, which then burst and flood the house. (There are other issues, too.) Some jurisdictions won't allow a thermostat with an OFF position. So set your minimum temperature to some point where you know nothing will freeze: 5C or so is a common minimum. Most homeowners don't understand this intuitively, but once explained, the lights come on. :-) So if you want to turn it off, set OFF = 5C and you should be good to go.
I agree, the way I implemented it - the original thermostat still overrides the sonoff... so if your house temp drops below that, the other one will kick in regardless. The AWAY mode is mostly because in this configuration I wanted to have control from both sources at the same time (as placed in parallel - one has to be OFF to use the other effectively)
This is perfect, thank you for this. I have the newer version of the Sonoff basic, you need to solder a wire to IO2 as gpio14 is not available. Looking forward to the updates to this.
I'm sorry i'm really really late to the party, is anyone still around? Because my v1.3 switch has the I02 pad on the back, or anyway it looks like a pad but damned if i can get solder to stick to it. It's smack in the middle of the trace that goes to ground and i'm just baffled.
I will add one that deals with Google ecosystem {node red server needs SSL for this) and then one replacing the unit with custom built controller with screen . That the plan
Great project, and would have super useful last year when we had exactly that thermostat lol, but had a new boiler installed in the summer that has a remote thermostat that operates on 868MHz, currently planning on sniffing out it's protocols.
Thanks for all your work on this and I surprised myself and got it working, my issue is the bit where you say I am cold , which would be perfect for the wife seem to be missing and when I tried the command Alexa told me to put a jumper on 😂 any chance you could had that to the response node PLEASE
With the question that I am going to ask you will realize that I am not a programmer but how do I change the configuration from Celsius to Fahrenheit ?
Hi, the video is brilliant. Are you able to control hot water as well or just heating i' was thinking of doing same project as you've done, but my problem is 3 zones, ground floor 1st floor and hot water. How would you control the hot water in case like this if i can ask? Thank you for sharing your project with us ;)
You will need 4channel sonoff to control more than one circuit in your house. It will complicate the flow in NodeRed a little but it's not possible. I will add multiple sensors and sensor trailing option soon.
How are you handling hysteresis with the flow? It is possible we could have very short cycle times without hysteresis. It looks like it should work okay with a SOnOff SV as well, which is what I would use as my system is a 24Volt system
The hysteresis is handled by averaging X measurements supplied every 300 sec. There is a graph as a monitor which you can use to see how often the heating comes up and adjusted the values as needed. If you can feed the sonoff of 24v the. You can do this that way
Great video! Will this work with underfloor water heating with basic thermostat dial (like the Honeywell) in each room? If yes, can the Sonoff Basic and DHT11 be replaced by Shelly 1/1PM (stock firmware) with the Temperature Sensor add-on?
Thank you for the video ! I want to control an old thermostat with an ESP8266 but I m confused about the wiring between the microcontroller and thermostat ? Can I use the same wiring like the video ?
Dang it! I am having the weirdest problem with the Alexa responses and get temperature. I'm in the US, so have everything in Fahrenheit. According to the docs, you set "temperatureReading" to the temperature which should be celsius. My TH16's give the temp in fahrenheit. If I pass this on directly, Alexa tells me the current temperature (which is 68 degrees) as 155 degrees (converting it from celsius to fahrenheit) all is as it should be. However, if I convert to celsius and pass it (68-32)*5/9 then Alexa tells me it's 20 degrees (for some reason Alexa decides not to convert from celsius to fahrenheit. In fact, I can hard code this, sent it 68 and it reports 155, send it 20 and it reports 20. what the....
Not really. I have it flashed as well, I'd have to read up a bit more on the dev progress as i flashed it very early into development and a lot of things were not compatible with it yet.
That’s why I ask, I’ve got one flashed up and like the idea of separating my Zigbee coordinator from home assistant, but have had an interesting experience so far. Either you let tasmota control device pairing and have a messy Matt message stream to deal with manually or let home assistants Zigbee integration manage it which although works very well means that link has to be online at all times so may as well stick with a USB device.
@@notenoughtech It would have been convenient for me to hide the Home Assistant Pi in my rack, and just have the Zigbee unit centrally in the house. Hopefully this will come at some point. I'm sure the Zigbee software will improve on Tasmota over time. Either that or I'll be designing a nicer case for my Raspberry Pi. Cheers!!
Try to find the info online about your unit - and understand how it works. Based on this you will know if you can use it directly. Mine had 3 wires with mains - so I was able to use it in parallel. But how you gonna connect yours is highly dependent on voltage available and signal used to drive the boiler.
I'm still working on a major code rework but you can see the multiple sensor integration and floor tracking priority here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XUoyDQBp-Y8.html
Question. I have a separate thermostat (all tasmota) in each of my rooms hooked up to different heaters (no central heat). I love you idea and I tried to implement it. One problem is that all of the 4 nest circle things are under one widget. I can't figure out how to get each into it's own widget in the NodeRed dashboard.
You need to edit the Dashboard, If you want to have one NEST widget per tab - create 4 tabs. Otherwise, create 4 groups in a single tab, then edit the node with NEST widget and add each widget to a separate group
@@notenoughtech I have one tab called "Home". Under that tab I have 4 groups "Living Room", "Dining Room", "Office", "Bedroom". Under "Living Room" I have "Livingroom_slider" and "Livingroom_nest", the same for the other tabs named appropriately. On the dashboard, I can see all 4 groups, and each group has it's individual slider. However, the nests are all contained in the first group one under the other. I can't seem to get the nests to each display in their group no matter what group I associate the Nest template node with.
Hi, very interesting tutorial. From your tutorial, I see the Alexa respond to you and change temperature settings accordingly with voice, do we need to do anything over login to alexa developer skill to make alexa response voice respond accordingly? Whereby, I tried to change the 'has leaf' temperature setting display but it seems not coming out within the range, x = flow.get('ambient_temperature'); as shown below. What happen ya...? if (x > 17 && x < 32){ flow.set('leaf', true); msg.payload = true; msg.topic = "has_leaf"; return msg; }
I've got a honeywell bdr91. So could you possibly explain what I would need to do. Obviously I understand the live goes on existing live. And neutral same as well then the live coming out of Sonoff. Does that go to common or the signal.
Be very careful, you need to identify 2 things. The voltage for the signal (AC/DC and if its 240V or low voltage and if signal pulls high/low etc. Based on this you will know what device is best suited for the application. You can use Shelly 1 as well as the relay circuit is decoupled. Simply hook it between signal wire and signal connector, set the heating to ON and control the signal via Shelly 1
Hi. This is what I've been looking for. Self-isolation has got some good points :). Anyway. Is there any chance this could work with the wireless thermostat?
Technically it could but you need to inspect how the boiler is connected. It's likely that you would connect the sonoff to the boiler instead of thermostat. It's more risky this way so please be careful and read enough about your boiler to find out
@@notenoughtech Ok. The boiler itself has a receiver that is connected by 3 cables (and one is looped). Question is does this way work? Or should i hardwired it rather then replace just receiver connection. Hope you know what i mean lol
If this is the case, you will wire it the same way. Wire it in parallel so you have the control from both - this way if you want to control it over the sonoff keep the temp on the wireless one to minimum
RF would probably make sense here as these devices can last for years on a single battery. However you'd need some sort of reciever like the Sonoff bridge. Alternatively you could integrate something into the lightswitch in each room (guaranteed power feed). Shelly1 may be compact enough.
To take it one step further, you could add thermal actuators to the rads in each room. Normally open or closed should be sufficient. That way if the boiler is already on you can simply set the rad normally open or if the desired temperature is exceeded set to normally closed. This would essentially replicate something like the tado system. The disadvantage of a system like this is the sensor is usually located right next to the heat source which is less than ideal. Better to have them decoupled somehow.
It's a good idea. Although application of this would be crazy. I can do this based on sample relays (I have 16 relay board) but I don't think I could afford to put 10+ WiFi radiator valves to run it myself unless I come up with something cheap and functional
@@notenoughtech here you go: community.openhab.org/t/my-central-heating-solution-using-thermal-actuators/41320 Pretty cheap solution also. Would love to see how this could work in NodeRed, or if it was even possible. As he mentions in the articule, you could kill 2 birds with 1 stone by using something like a TH10 to control the actuator and measure the temperature at the time but I guess your hacked basic would work equally as well :)
@@jenaman0001 The setup isnt configured for AC but for heating only - you will have to follow the same logic to setup the AC temps yourself. You need to configure the topic for each device. I use several temp sensors to control the heating and then one sonoff to trigger the thermostat. Did you see the associated article? It has a little more details than the video on the subject
No as sonoff takes power from the line too and 110V is the minimum. You can try an esp based relay board that has 5v supply. Most of them have isolated relays
I'm away right now, but it uses HTTP via IFTTT to set the variables in the system on and off.... these are checked every 5 sec so if you read the article you should be able to plug that in
there is also one at the very top of the post - did that one work? Strange as previously link without /view had 404 error and I added the one with the view
I'm sure this is a wonderful idea. It sounds as if we could all benefit, but your explanation as if we all know what you're talking about isn't helpful. Concept good, execution no.
