Gotta love electrochem. I'm making zinc powder in a cell right now and my next divided cell is going to be for the reduction of nitroguanidine to aminoguanidine.
@@Polkem1 I'm filming the series on making guanidine nitrate, nitroguanidine, and aminoguanidine now. I just need to finish up the arsenic pigments I'm making for another channel. I'm also really awful at making videos, but I'm working on it!
I believe the liquid level in the anode chamber decreases mostly due to simple osmosis through the semipermeable clay pot, since the cathode compartment is full of strong salt solution and the anode compartment is very dilute.
@@SayaialahBeliau Well, nothing is free. You need to scale everything up! I'll try to make a video on it, but right now I'm focusing on the method rather than the optimization of production.
I have watched several electrochemical sulfuric acid production videos, but in my opinion, this is by far the best video. Very well organized and the description and tables shared really brought the process together. Thank you so much for your time and work, this is awesome. Keep it up. Cheers!!
@@suprememasteroftheuniverse I showed in the video a test on a paper towel. I also used it to make nitric acid (like here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NHBDXtn7pjA.html) when there was a shortage in store where I usually buy sulfuric acid as drain opener. The resulting nitric acid was working the same as usual.
@@RandyCampbell-fk3pf Probably. Look at this lead-acid battery that I made. It also involves a lead-dioxide electrode, the other one is a standard lead electrode: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0zQYJJz89Wo.html
Nice work, thank you. Thanks for going through all the reactions. It's so easy to treat electrolysis like a recipe, learning by rote and just repeating what has worked before. It makes it hard to spot problems when things go wrong. The most favorable reaction at any given moment can change due to temperature, voltage, contamination, chinese electrodes, etc. Knowing what should be happening is not enough, you need to know everything that can happen, and under what circumstances.
Yes along those lines is this why some people say you can rejuvenate a lead acid battery with Epsom salt? Are they just making new acid to make it appear the battery is rejuvenated?
@@Dude8718 We can filter only particles that are in suspension, not dissolved. But in the present case, it turns out that the pollution that is responsible for the reddish color is dissolved.
It's the unglazed pot that makes the difference and did this some years ago when the interest was for a home-made lead/acid battery. I guess we only produce the concentrated sulphuric when really necessary. As an aside, for the battery acid, if we leave whatever concentration we have open to the air, atmospheric moisture will produce an equilibrium giving (from memory) S.G. 1.33 and 1.28 is optimum for a battery as the acid/water mixture has greatest conductivity. Interested in your channel, keep up the good work!
Great video. One request - for the sake of those less careful and experienced such as yourself, it would be good if you wore and discussed protective equipment such as butyl gloves and eye protection. You may have quite young viewers. Otherwise, very well presented. I subscribed.
idea: try to roughen up the copper rod, to get a bigger surface (use K60 paper). use graphit electrodes. yes they degrade faster, but they may be more effective
Well, batteries use only 30% sulfuric acid, so you end up with more acid. Check this link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0zQYJJz89Wo.html
Here's a thought. Drill a small hole in the lip of the clay pot and install a small tube that goes over the edge of the bowl and sits over another container. Now have a container of distilled water that slowly drips into the pot. So as it goes, water drips at an adjustable rate into the pot,and it overflows into the catch container through the tube. This will allow the constant removal of the product as the process proceeds. You could also make a similar drop and overflow system that adds a solution of epsom salts to the other side. Removing the magnesium hydroxide probably isn't an issue as it's highly insoluble which pretty much removes it anyway, so you just need enough space for it.
@@BlueMoonshineNo sir, as I feel the same way I can express the same sentiments. Excellent video, the algorithm actually recommending good videos by actual humans.
Very good! Especially if an impure acid will do. Personally, I’d wait and put the 8% acid in a gallon jug until it was full then work with 1 liter at a time and you should get 50 to 100 ml. Much better to work with. Oh I had one more thought. What if you could put acid in very tall narrow vile and allow sediment to settle and maybe cement out a little. You could pipette the cleaner liquid from the top!?
"Personally, I’d wait and put the 8% acid in a gallon jug until it was full then work with 1 liter at a time and you should get 50 to 100 ml." Sure, I was only showing the concept. "What if you could put acid in very tall narrow vile and allow sediment to settle and maybe cement out a little. You could pipette the cleaner liquid from the top!?" Certainly. Another possibility to get a pure acid is to distill it.
In our setup using sodium sulfate (Na₂SO₄) with a Nafion 117 membrane, the process involves separating sodium ions (Na⁺) from sulfate ions (SO₄²⁻) through the membrane. Here’s how this process generally works: Nafion 117 Membrane: Nafion 117 is known for its selective permeability, allowing certain ions to pass through while blocking others based on their size and charge. In our case: Sodium ions (Na⁺), being relatively smaller, can pass through the Nafion 117 membrane. Sulfate ions (SO₄²⁻), being larger, are less likely to pass through the membrane effectively. Electrochemical Setup: In an electrochemical cell or setup with Nafion 117 membrane: When a voltage is applied across the cell, sodium ions (Na⁺) migrate through the Nafion membrane towards the opposite electrode. Meanwhile, sulfate ions (SO₄²⁻) are mostly retained on the other side of the membrane due to their size and charge. Product Formation: On the side where sodium ions (Na⁺) migrate, sodium hydroxide (NaOH) can form if water is present, due to the alkalinity of sodium ions reacting with water. On the side where sulfate ions (SO₄²⁻) remain, sulfuric acid (H₂SO₄) can form through appropriate chemical reactions, often involving water and hydrogen ions (H⁺) resulting from other processes. Purpose and Applications: This setup can be utilized for various applications where selective separation of ions is required, such as in electrolysis processes for generating sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid separately. Therefore, in our experimental setup with sodium sulfate and Nafion 117 membrane, the membrane allows for the selective passage of sodium ions (Na⁺) while restricting sulfate ions (SO₄²⁻), facilitating the separate production of sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid on opposite sides of the membrane. This process is based on the membrane's ability to control ion transport, which is crucial in various electrochemical and separation applications. Key Points: Low Solubility: Magnesium hydroxide has low solubility in water, forming a suspension rather than dissolving completely. Formation: It can precipitate out of solution when magnesium ions (Mg²⁺) react with hydroxide ions (OH⁻): Magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)₂) reacts with sulfuric acid (H₂SO₄) to produce magnesium sulfate (MgSO₄) and water (H₂O). Your process can be further optimized, because I suspect that MgOH and Sulfuric Acid are being manufactured on the one side, and sulfuric acid on the other side, and then MgOH and Sulfuric acid cancel each other out converting back to Magnesium Sulfate, etc. I suggest reversing the polarity, and using Sodium Sulfate, because Na+ is small enough to pass which will create Sodium Hydroxide within the flower pot leaving behind sulfuric acid that can be distilled to the desired concentration and purity. ~ Cheers
When using a clay pot as a membrane you should glaze the top (only the top 1cm is enough). Its possible that the water loss in the pot is because of this as it actually can creed over the rim if it isnt glazed. I dont know if the acid can also creep over the rim, maybe.
Sulfuric acid is not a big deal. Watch this 2-minute video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WzRk6nq9zBc.html Wearing goggles to prevent acid splashes in the eyes is enough.
It was making me nervous when you were pouring the concentrated acid out when you don’t have acid resistant gloves on. A friend of mine, spilt, concentrated sulfuric acid on his hand, and it took him a few seconds to rinse it off, and a massive ugly blister formed that was very black, and it was a terrible injury. Please be very careful. Imagine if you got that stuff in your eyes oh my God, you be blind for sure
I agree for the eyes, and I was wearing goggles. But for the hands, it really is not a big deal. I give the proof here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WzRk6nq9zBc.htmlsi=_aZGczOb9TVhznwx
I would love to see you do a saltwater electrolysis to yield Sodium chlorate. The potassium salt has been overdone, the main industrial production is salt to SC. This video was brilliant, and about 12.5 kWh is acceptable if you really need 100ml h2so4 azeotrope.
Im not an Expert as like you. but please use safty googels and gloves. Becase we need to see this wonderful things further... Thank you for sharing these things with us...
QUESTION about preventing the clay contamination: What are the properties the pot needs? Conductivity, acid resistance, and NON-porosity? (I’m assuming any metal vessel would corrode and alter the solution.)
@@BlueMoonshine I think the pot you used is earthenware, and I can suggest trying either stoneware or porcelain that has only been “bisque-fired”. The earthenware is mainly clay, red iron oxide, and silica, like most clays, but it is not designed to vitrify. Vitrification means that the silica present in the clay has all melted, cooled, and welded together all the other materials in the mix, making it waterproof. Knowing that you need some porosity, but greater integral strength in the pot, you could try using stoneware that has been bisque-fired (this is literally “half-baked”, so the clay is partially vitrified, setting the form, but not yet fully vitrified, and not waterproof, but quite porous instead). Since stoneware is designed to vitrify, and earthenware is not, I suspect that the bisque-fired stoneware would be stronger, and less likely to contaminate your solution. Additionally, stoneware can be bisque-fired within a range of “cones” (which are a measure of heat work, used in all ceramics), and a piece that is bisque-fired to a higher cone will be more durable and less porous, so you might be able to find the sweet spot of balancing the two. Finally, I don’t know the importance of the red iron oxide for the ion flow, but it might help. If so, stoneware clays come in a wide range of iron content, and choosing one that is “buff, red, or black” will increase the iron content, in that order. Happy to clarify if it would be helpful. Thanks for the video!
Love your content so great to see actually. Have you done anything with Selenium dioxide? looking for ways to make or attain Selenious Acid. for rust proofing tools. its tricky to get in any small quantity and I do not require a ton at a time lol
Hi and thank you for the informative video! What confused me was, weren't you supposed to get close to 54.4 ml of sulfuric acid, instead of 5 ml? Did something go wrong or did I not understand something
The value 54.4 ml that I calculated was an upper limit. That's what we would get if everything was perfect. But the separating membrane (the clay pot) is not perfect, it lets some of the sulfuric acid leak out and some of the magnesium hydroxide leak in. The acid reacts with the magnesium hydroxide and gives back Epsom salt and water. So the reaction never goes to completion. Also, some other reactions take place and by products are formed instead of sulfuric acid.
@@LachskoenigIV Here is, as promised, the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WzRk6nq9zBc.html Note that in the video I mentioned that some people accused me of lying when I said that it is not a big deal of having sulfuric acid on my hands. I want you to know that I am not referring to you.
@@BlueMoonshine uhm, well I don't know what to say honestly. I've had just a little drop of 30% concentration on my lab coat in chemistry class way back in school and it ate right through the lab coat, jeans and underwear. I'm honestly baffled now.
if you make a zinc-air battery, you can use zinc-sulphate water with steel and carbon electrodes to both load up zinc and generate sulfuric acid and oxygen, with electrolysis electroplating. magnesium sulphate should be a magnesium-air battery btw. oh it does not generate magnesium metal as plating electrolysis.
Will graphite work at all? Obviously it will break down gradually and contaminate the anode chamber, but will it even make acid? How about another piece of copper, it resists sulfuric when dilute right?
@@deltab9768 graphite works but degrades with time quite fast. Copper doesn't work because anode dissolution isn't about acid. It's electricity that forces metal to go into solution making ions.
I think the water level in the pot dropped because of the osmosis, the solution outside is quite concentrated so it could just pull distilled water through permeable clay. Also, the potential of a galvanic battery is the cathode potential minus the anode potential. If we calculate it that way, it should give about 0,4 V instead of 2 V. Is electrolysis different than battery?
Also the color might've disappeared because it came from the electrode, when you heated the acid it oxidized the carbon particles. Inorganic contaminants like iron from the clay pot would persist, it was most probably something carbon based.
@@zenongranatnik8370 "Also, the potential of a galvanic battery is the cathode potential minus the anode potential." Be careful! It is the cathode REDUCTION potential minus the anode REDUCTION potential. This is equivalent to what I did, which is the cathode REDUCTION potential plus the anode OXIDATION potential.
Use handy math online calculator to see the concentration. I did it for you and estimate that the concentration is 8.26% by weight if the temp when measuring density was 25c
I'm curious how this would work with sodium metal bisulphate, because you have 2 sulphate ions. Id love to do this myself, but I'm bad at documentation and knowing what exactly I did last week.
@nunyabisnass1141 mix the sodium metabisulphate(ph-down, from a pool supply store) with hydrochloric-acid, and then boil away the water like in the video. It's proberly the most efficient, and easiest way to make sulphuric-acid, as an amateur chemist with no access to controlled/regulated chemicals.
Yes, in the anode compartment, I guess this should work, the copper should migrate to the cathode. Or, you can save a few drops of sulfuric acid from the previous batch.
Lead plate (2mm) anode is actually corroded but It is well tolerated due to the lead oxide (IV) deposited on the surface. In addition, my system was dropped titanium mesh cathode ($1/pcs) in pot and thus it can remove magnesium hydrate from cathode in pot. Finally, several liters of about 25% sulfuric acid would be obtained from the container.
I guess I could. But since the escaping gases are oxygen and hydrogen, it would be simpler to do the electrolysis of dilute sulfuric acid. No split cell necessary.
@@BlueMoonshine showing off how to separate the different gas molecules would also be wonderful. Tks for getting back to me by the way. I really love your videos, even if the equipment for chemistry is too expensive for me to make a hobby out of it.
@@Parsosti I will add this to my to-do list of videos. BTW, if you are talking about the distillation apparatus that I use in other video, I got mine on eBay for only $65, brand new (without the heating mantle). It came from China in no more than 12 days, and it is good quality. @Nurdrage has a video that explains how you can build a heating mantle yourself.
@@BlueMoonshine tks for the tip. But my main issue is finding a decently cheap basic chemistry kit. Glassware is usually pretty expensive when you actually have funds. Since most of mine tends to go to rent... you get the picture right?
No, we can rule out this hypothesis because evaporation is proportional to the area of contact with the air. Thus, if the water level in the clay pot decreases by 50% due to evaporation, then the level should also decrease by the same amount in the main dish. But that wasn't the case. It turns out that what actually happened is osmosis: Water from the clay pot was sucked out by the solution from the main dish which becomes hydrophilic.
@@BlueMoonshine is this recovery gold need any special license to run from home and how about the chemical west how can i get drop it in facility ?? thanks
In order to use 5 amps, you need either larger electrodes (plates) in order to reduce the resistance, or increase the voltage. But if you increase the voltage, you also increase the probability for unwanted reactions to happens, and this will generate pollution of the product.
Not sure I see the connection. Usually, in order to precipitate gold, you need first to dissolve it in Aqua Regia, which is a mix of hydrochloric and nitric acid, then precipitate the gold by adding sodium metabisulfite. No sulfuric acid nor Epsom salt involved, so I really don't see the connection. You may want to watch my tutorial on how I refine gold: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NMzDeBDQUHc.html
@BlueMoonshine Ik how to make aqua regia and all. I have not only muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide but also nitric and hydrochloric acid because I was planning on growing gold crystals using electrochemistry. The sulfuric acid is added after refining (a few drops) but before adding smb to make the gold that drops even more pure. I was also going to be using s02 gas as well because it drops the gold faster and while smb will give you very pure gold s02 gas works way faster and will be even more pure
@BlueMoonshine most of my gold refining I wound up learning from sreetips on RU-vid and cryptanaki on tiktok but I still do have some stump remover on hand
@BlueMoonshine also one more thing I was wondering; my hotplates don't reach up to 337°C which is 639°F so they won't get hot enough to boil the acid. Is this a good thing because it will only evaporate water and all the other impurities or does it HAVE to be hot enough to boil the acid specifically?
@@Deku-ue3bu It's hard to tell. It depends on the type of impurities. Some will boil off below 100°C, some will boil off above 100°C. Also, the concentration of your final sulfuric acid will depend on the temperature that you can reach. You can find some tables on the web that give the concentration of sulfuric acid as a function of its boiling temperature.
Graphite or lead will work fine. You will be able to remove most of the contamination by filtering. Copper on the other hand won't work, as it will turn the Epsom salt into copper sulfate, like I purposely did in this tutorial: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XGEv9RGrvNY.html
@@BlueMoonshine Nice, I also saw another video where it was stated that the metal forms the dioxide coating, and in that video they just used graphite electrodes, but there was a lot of junk in the product, so i'll be using lead strips...
epsom salt + copper + electricity : remove magnesium that will sit in the clay pot, then when u have copper sulfate reduce it and get the acid in the pot ... copper ion will not go trough the clay pot, that why in first place u end up with the magnesium only in the clay pot at the stage epsom to coppersulfate...
Pure water boils at 100°C. When mixed with sulfuric acid, it is no longer pure. Sulfuric acid is a strong de-hydrant. It doesn't want to let water go, so as the concentration of sulfuric acid increases, the boiling temperature increases too. When the concentration reaches 98%, the boiling temperature is 337°C. You cannot concentrate above 98% by this method, because sulfuric acid and water form an azeotrope. At 98%, both the sulfuric acid and the water boil at the same time.
Examples of use are: - Making flash paper and flash cotton: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZEJKo7c_SJQ.html - Making nitroglycerin: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-INUZdoGdF68.html - Making nitric acid: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NHBDXtn7pjA.html - Copper plating - ...
@@y0rkiebar No need to apologize. It will surely dissolve human tissue, but it takes several days to completely dissolve a human body. Although it takes a few seconds to feel the acid on your hands slightly stinging, you still have a few minutes to calmly go rinse them.
Agar might work but it might be single use which is fine unless you do the electrolysis often. You can look for ionomer membranes online like nafion but I'm not sure they'll work here. Also polyacrylamide might work.
In order to remove water from a solution like this there is no need to heat it up more than 110 degrees Celsius. Water boils at 100 degrees and sulfuric acid boils at 337 degrees C. As long as you have water in that solution the temperature can not go higher than 100 degrees ( at normal atmosferic pressure) regardless of how much heat you put in it .. As soon as water molecules reach 100 degrees they turn into vapor and fly away taking that energy with them, that's why you cannot have more than boiling temperature in the pot as long as there still is water in it. If you add more heat you just accelerate the boiling process and the water molecules fly away quicker as soon as they reach 100 C.. If you want to modify the boiling temperature then you must alter the pressure .. no other option (on mount Everest water boils at about 70-80 degrees Celsius depending on the exact altitude) When the solution reaches about 105 to 110 degrees C at normal atmosferic pressure .. there is no water left in that solution .. guaranteed ! Great video - Cheers :)
This is totally wrong! When water is mixed with sulfuric acid, its boiling temperature changes. It depends on the concentration of the acid. Sulfuric acid is a powerful dehydrant, and it doesn't let water escape easily. The higher the concentration of the acid, the higher the boiling temperature of the water. At the beginning, when the solution is very dilute, the water will boil just above 100°C. When the concentration reaches 50%, the boiling temperature is 148°C. For 70%, it is 190°C. At the azeotropic concentration of 98%, the boiling temperature is 337°C. At this point, both the water and the acid boil and the concentration no longer increases.
@@BlueMoonshine Thanks a lot for your reply ! I obviously did not know this. I learned that theory from one of Neil Degrasse Tyson's videos where he explains how water behaves when heated to a boiling point. Of note is that in his videos he strictly refers to plain water and food making without saying anything about possible exceptions within certain chemical solutions that may contain water. So apparently I wrongfully assumed that water will still behave the same way no matter which kind of solution mix we're talking about. Is the sulphuric acid and water mix the only situation where the boiling temperature of water changes with concentration in that solution ? Or is this a general principle that applies to all water solutions or any other liquid chemical mix for that matter ?! In other wards is my theory generally right with this being the only exception or is it totally wrong?! Would highly appreciate another kind reply ! Thanks again for taking your time to reply and teach me something new !! 🙏
@@calind61 "Is the sulphuric acid and water mix the only situation where the boiling temperature of water changes with concentration in that solution ?" No, it happens in many other situations. For example, when distilling alcohol, you can increase the alcohol concentration up to a certain percentage by distillation. The distillation temperature is around 70°C if I remember well. But as the concentration increases, the boiling temperature will also increase, and water will start to boil with the alcohol at a temperature lower than 100°C. This is again an azeotropic temperature, where you can no longer increase the alcohol concentration by distillation. Other concentration techniques must be used. "In other wards is my theory generally right with this being the only exception or is it totally wrong?!" It is generally wrong, I'm sorry. This is a well-known effect that has to do with the "entropy of mixtures". When two (or more) substances are mixed together, their individual boiling temperature can increase or decrease, depending on the type of substances. "Thanks again for taking your time to reply and teach me something new !!" You're welcome, and thanks for watching my videos.
I don't think that evaporation is the reason, because evaporation rate is proportional to the area of contact with the air, thus the levels in the clay pot and in the glass dish would decrease both by the same height.
The points of the tutorial are: - Education in electro-chemistry. - People in many countries don't have access to sulfuric acid in any form (drain opener, acid for battery, ...) because it has been banned, and the method that I propose provide them with an easy alternative. The setup can easily be scaled up to produce more.
Or use it to make nitric acid, which allows you to make nitroglycerin so that you can blow up that face: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NHBDXtn7pjA.html
The point of the tutorial is: 1) Education in electrochemistry through an easy-to-do experiment. 2) Many people live in countries where sulfuric acid has been banned from stores in any forms. This method then becomes a viable solution for them.
Seems like a lot of effort for a very tiny amount. The better what is to just use the contact process: create Oleum (SO3) and apply to water. so3 + h2o → h2so4. For now you can buy concentrated H2S04 as drain cleaner (usually around 92% to 96%). Just distill to get to 98% (Nurd Rage as recent video on this method).
"buy concentrated H2S04 as drain cleaner" That's what I usually do, but it is getting harder and harder to find some. Looked at Walmart, The Home Depot, Lowes, and it was impossible to find any for months. Lately I was able to find again some at Walmart, but with the government making new laws everyday in order to reduce our freedom, these products will soon completely disappear from stores. Same for the standard 30% sulfuric acid for car battery that we normally find at Autozone or O'Reilly. Also, my tutorial is mainly intended for people living in the many countries where the access to sulfuric acid in any form is totally banned by their government.
@@BlueMoonshinePrecisely. Some European countries have banned it for regular consumers, and in the US, we are always one ignorant news story away from an angry mob demanding something should be banned.
@@viktorsarychkin8456I would never approach SO3, or chromates, or mercury derivatives. The great thing about nurdrage is how he often goes into safety, and risks, and I take stuff to heart. Even when you know what you are doing, mistakes and accidents still happen.
You missed the point of the tutorial: - Educational tutorial on electro-chemistry - Many people live in countries where sulfuric acid in any form has been banned from stores, and this methods becomes a viable alternative.
98% sulfuric acid is not a big deal if we get some on our hands. Watch this for instance: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WzRk6nq9zBc.html
@@kawaiiintelligenceagency3889 For the first 2 minutes, the sulfuric acid spends most of its time reacting with the moisture of the skin, leaving the skin tissues intact. It stings a little bit, much less than when applying aftershave on freshly shaved skin.
@BlueMoonshine thank you! You definitely made a fair point. However, it is definitely not safe not to point out some sort of disclaimer for the people watching your videos. You might be safe doing your way, but it can be dangerous for others who try to replicate. That being said, I still appreciate your dedication towards science. Big thank you for the great explanation:)
Boy that’s some nasty stuff Sulfuric Acid. I thought you produced a very good video mate.😊10 out of 10 from me.😊 Time to make something, maybe a Battery 🪫? (LOL)😊