GREAT SCOTT!!! Man that is freaking awesome! I had an idea of building a miniature version and installing it on my ebike just for a bit of a laugh. I cannot believe the detail you put into it, especially when you said you never did this or that before. Far out!
What an amazing project bro! Great work building this replica, you've really motivated me to finally start my own build (so thank you for the 3D files and the parts list as well!). Also, you did a great job editing this video, the whole process was very enjoyable to watch. So props to you, you've earned yourself a new subscriber!
Amazing detail, especially considering the unavailability of the original relays, I never saw that much detail watching the movie, so a way simpler build would have tricked me. Actually I have a few glass vials from my wife's insulin pens, they look kind of right for a version of this.
Making this right now and having a blast, thanks for the vid, plans, models and code! For anyone else who hates sanding/polishing, the top of the Torr relays get covered up by the spark boots, so while I'm sure this is very accurate, you don't really need to shape the top bullet-shaped 1/2 tube, and the rounded rod doesn't need to be there at all.
Thank you so much for adding all the links in the description! You don’t know how thankful I am that you took the time, that’s a lot of time and research you did and saved everyone else the time and hassle of finding all that.
Your channel is going to blow up soon once the algorithm pushes this and your other content. I'll binge watch some things next, but I actually want to make one of these for a backdrop in my office for my videos.
I uploaded my finished fluxcapacitor, with build video to follow. Thanks for your files. I did however have to heavily edit your code. Made quite a few changes. Also had to build my own box as importing 1 was going to cost $1000 just to import. But im quite impressed how it turned out.
I really appreciate all the info and the inclusion of where to buy stuff and the files to use for prints. I've already ordered the box (used) and plan to order the rest soon.
I bought the Stahlin box several years ago, but put my FC build on the back burner because I was stuck at the dimensions of the window cutout and the parts were out of my range at that time. I just found this video, so hopefully I can get going on it again.
Dude you gotta be pleased with yourself and feel pretty damn elated after making that it’s absolutely superb I was blown away man well done 👏👏 I’m looking for a model one to put in my car lol
Really nice work on this. I do a lot of prop building and for you to tackle this properly with the research and not cutting corners takes a lot of effort and work. Excellent video and work on this!
The best “how to” video I have ever watched. Amazing craftsmanship! Also, it convinced me to build one. I have almost finished the box, relays, and the board. Working on the electronics, but I need a new source for the MP3. Amazon indicates it’s not available.
Thank you! There are mp3s in the GitHub link in the description. Good luck on the build, it's super fun! Edit: Realize you meant the MP3 Module, not the MP3s. Any arduino MP3 Module should work. I updated the description link to new ones on Amazon. Thanks for the heads up!
In the home stretch of this project which is the electronics and software. Must all of the Smart LEDs be connected to get it working? Doing a single 10 strip as a test prior to final installation. Nothing is working.
@@RickCurnutte Ahh man! It should work with any number of LEDs. I'd check your FastLED Library to make sure it's working on its own, then test with my code. This code was also written a while ago. I'm not sure if it will work with newer versions of fastLED. Good luck!
I just found this video, you did an amazing job. The research and detail is awesome. This is probably the closest one I have seen and it has bonus modes and sounds. It looks amazing.
that is one hell of a project! amazing work! i can't imagine how much this will cost if someone has to buy the finished product. the craftmanship is top notch. :)
Hi. Your video is amazing. As someone who also built a Flux Capacitor replica trying to match even the screws (for example, the base was attached to the box using rounded black philips screws and I matched even that), I appreciate your work, but also wanted to point some little things you can improve in the future. First of all, the famous "close shot" of the movie, when Doc shows the flux capacitor to Marty... that's not the "A" flux capacitor. The "A" one is when Marty shows it to 1955 Doc after he hid the DeLorean and Doc shows Marty his drawing. That's the one that the restoration team restored. Little things here and there. That "potentiometer" next to the bottom relay is not part of the original flux capacitor. It was added as a quick/cheap fix of something that broke when the car was on display at Universal Studios and they didn't care about it. I know that piece it's displayed on the documentary, but that's not part of the original design, it was added much later, so you can get rid of that if you want. The original Stahlin box is ALMOST the same as the original. They change a couple of things in all these years. If you want the most accurate replica, the hinge must be changed (it was visible on the original box), the rivets have to be "inversed" (as weird as it sounds, the nice rounded end part of the rivet was on the interior, and the rivet pogs on the exterior, you can check that on movie and original flux stills). Also, the clamps where closer in the original box. You have to move them around 2cm each inwards. If you remove them, you can reuse the inner hole , but you have to fill the external holes, and make new inner holes. Also, the relay stickers and the label stickers are not accurate and the reyelay little pegs are not the correct ones (yours are too tall and the cilinder is not flush). The font on the relay stickers is not ok, and for the labels, they weren't made using a Dymo, but a 1/2" Rotex labeler. Just changing the red labels of the outside makes a HUGE improvement on the overall look of the capacitor. Again, not trying to bash your building. I think it's one of the most accurate and dedicated all around youtube and replica makers, but just wanted to point some improvements you can easily do in the future to make it even better. With all the pieces and with the help of a friend that has a little workshop, we spent around 35-40 hours on the building, so I know what you've been through. Congrats on your replica!!!!
Wow! Thanks so much for the info! You know your stuff! I was aware of a couple of these but not everything. I appreciate the time you took to write that out. I'll definitely reference this when I make changes to it. I tried to use non-permanent gluing methods because I knew there were things I was going to want to change. It's a work in progress! Thanks again!
Awesome project! I have a 3D printer and a long background in electronics and soldering so I just might try to make this. Thanks for the video. I came here from Thingiverse after seeing your project on there.
AMAZING work!!! Liked, Subscribed, Shared, Saved, Wowed, Watched 3 times, Hit Every link in the description, Offered a case of plutonium, Watched BTTF with the Family... Fantastic Work all around!
@@RadBenchYT I'm a huge fan of the movies also and I'm looking forward to making the Flux Capacitor from this tutorial. I made a hoverboard-shaped plutonium box for my Marty Hoverboard on my channel, and I'm working on modeling all the accessory parts for the Pit Bull Board, again Rad great channel, looking forward to more :D
Which colour did you end up using? You verbally mention Battleship Gray but list Satin Coastal Gray Spray... Is it because its to difficult to find Battleship gray anywhere in spray? Thank you again for a super vid! Im also going to do this step by step and will eventually get the full specs in cutting out the tubs!!
I used Rust-Oleum coastal gray. If you can't find coastal gray, Rust-Oleum satin granite is almost identical so it would be a good substitute but I think coastal is closer to the right color. Good luck with the build!
That was first class work! All that attention to detail and effort put while designing each piece.. Not to mention you are sharing all this with us. Thanks a lot man, found this super interesting, and a great project! Subscribing to your channel for sure, happy holidays!
Great video, you convinced me to build my own flux capacitor! Regarding the light bars, do you think it can be cut with a saw since I don't have direct access to a laser cutting machine?
Really nice build ! Where did you get the Torr Labs labels from ? I built a 1/2-size one, mainly so I could 3D print the case as well but I have a full size model on my todo list :)
Amazing build! Did I hear you right when you said you have no experience whatsoever with Arduino coding or Chase pattern light programming? If not you sure made it look incredibly easy. I have all the materials to finish mine, but I am stuck with the program coding on the Arduino. Can you advise? Thx
Thanks! Yes, it was my first arduino project and I've forgotten everything lol. I'd recommend looking up FastLED tutorials if you can't get the lighthing working. I remember it was a lot of trial and error to get things working correctly.
Fantastic work, thank so much for providing everything and saving so much time for me and many others! But I have to ask: Would you also share the measurement of the board in the back?
This is incredible work. It inspired me to make my own. I already bought the expensive box and several elements. But the back board diagram is no longer available. Could you reupload it please?
Thanks! Yeah the code is available in the GitHub link. Not sure if it needs to be updated with new libraries. I've heard some people have had to modify it to get it working.
Fantastic work.. is there a detailed layout for how you did all the measurements for the pulsing lites and tor relays sparkplug wiring etc on the inside panel?
Hey great project. And great job. I bought the box, spark cables, label gun… like 20 something years ago and was stuck on finding Torr relays! LOL. So I have a 3D printer and though. I bet someone has though of this before me. Bam! I have everything printed! And almost all the parts now. One question. Where did you mount the IR sensor. I did not see a hole in the board, in with the center LED? And where did the torr relay stickers come from? Thanks Will
Hello, congratulations on this great job! and thank you for sharing it with everyone. I have a question, the "Spark Plug Wire Set" ignition cables are nowhere to be found, would you have something similar to recommend ? Thank you.
Hey, wonderful job man!!! I'm trying to replicate and improve some aspects like stereo audio inside. Got one doubt here... the center led in your schematic is backwards right? It is supposed to light up when D12 goes HIGH...am I right? I think thre's no way for it to light up as it is shown, because you'll need some negative voltage at D12... Correct me please! Thanks!
Great work! When I got into prop making, (2005ish) those 12x10 stahlin boxes used to be had for less than $100. Sometimes $65 brand new...The price spikes on this stuff is insane. I get it's been almost 20 years...but at the end of the day it's just a glorified breaker box. I often wonder if stahlin caught on...lol
This is fantastic! I'm currently in the process of building this using your instructions, and it's going really well. If you read this - what paint color did you use for the spark plug boots? Thanks in advance and thanks so much for the video and files!!
Cool, thanks! I just mixed some acrylic paint until I got a color that I thought was accurate. Then I watered it down so it could be sprayed with a paint gun. Have fun with the build! 👍😀
@@RadBenchYT Awesome thank you!! One last question - where did you source the power switch? I can't seem to find that in the components list, but i've found everything else. Thanks again!!
@@RadBenchYT Okay, so i'm getting there with this. Your instructions have been INCREDIBLY helpful. I'm just about to start wiring, but I noticed the Arduino kit in your link doesn't come with the breadboard you used. Any idea where I could get one, or what the brand of yours was? I'd love to use the cradle/mount you mocked up for it if possible. Thanks man!!
I like this! 2 LED lights at a time should be lit 6 LEDs in each :) I have 100% the same box the right color I go crazy how do I get the window back? First the rubber strip in place??
Followed this to a tee and I am having some issues with the volume up and volume down buttons not working somewhere. Do you have any idea on why this might not be working correctly? I've checked the sketch file and did not find anything for those buttons except for the define button portion. Thanks! Edit: I noticed that pins IO_1 and IO_2 weren't connected in your pinout diagram. Does this make any difference for the volume control?
What did you end up using for the window on the box? I didn't see an acrylic sheet or something similar listed in the parts list. Thanks for sharing such a cool project!
hah! @5:03 one of my relay bracket holder things jumped a little bit at the exact same spot! What are the odds?! - I am in the middle of building this myself. relying heavily on your dimensions and your examples. I reworked the relay bodies so I could mount them in my oscillating sander and smooth them out. The original relays looked like they had a zinc chromate coating on them, so I tried to replicate that with brass/gold paint with mists of red, green and blue at different angles. I think they came out pretty well. I am working on the vac tubes now. Drilling through that quarter inch acrylic rod was a lot of fun....
Great project! Just making a start on it now. What post / terminal did you print? You appear to use a nut on yours but the 2 stl files already include the nut as part of the print?
Thanks! If you're talking about the tip jack connectors, I used real ones instead of printing them. You can get them here: www.newark.com/johnson-cinch-connectivity/105-0603-001/tip-jack-5700v-10a-black/dp/39F880
@@RadBenchYT Excellent! Started ordering the parts. Once again, such an amazing project. Will look great with next to the Time circuit display I made a couple of years ago!
"I am not sure what the correct order is that I need to assign to the mp3 files so that they match the programming of the remote control buttons. For example, m, startup ---0001.mp3, engine start ...."
Wow!!! So very cool... Been working on mine for aout a year but after seeing this, I think it's going to be time to start over. P.S. You have a mistake in your schematic... The Cap goes from Vcc to GND not in series with Vcc.
This video is possibly the best flux capacitor replica video I have seen - you did an awesome job on your build. Thanks for sharing it. Are you willing to share your template for the white board with the holes etc. marked out? Great work - sub'd and can't wait to check out more vids. Cheers!
@@westopping1457 it was a tight squeeze for me as well. I think you need an 1/8" gap between the window and the door. I had to sand mine on the belt sander a couple times to get it to fit.
Can you upload the file for mounting of the USB and power connector to make the external connections? I don't see that part in your Thingiverse files. Also for the code to work with the LEDs, does it matter what order they are cut off of the strip? Does each light have its own address that I'd need to make sure my lights are aligned correctly with what is in the code?
Hi, Thanks for letting me know. PowerUSBMount and PowerUSBTemplate have been uploaded to Thingiverse. LEDs can be cut anywhere. The first light that receives a signal will be light #0. The next will be light #1, etc, etc. So where you cut them doesn't matter. The direction of the lights does matter, though. There should be arrows on the LED strip showing which direction the signal should flow.
I managed something with fastled, I don't know if I could put sound but at least there will be light. Just one thing, how to get the amber color with the led strip? What are your color blends?
Cool sounds like you're making progress :) Those color values are all in the github(github.com/Rad-Bench/flux/blob/main/IR_n_LED19.ino ). For instance Hue, Saturation, Value: CHSV(22, 200, 100); More info here: github.com/FastLED/FastLED/wiki/FastLED-HSV-Colors
I'd try getting each one working individually, then connecting everything together. I'm not an Arduino expert so I'm not sure how much help I can be but there are tons of guides for fastLED and documentation for the MP3 module.
Here are some Troubleshooting Steps (i have a lot more experience in Arduino and C++) as well as this specific project FIRST UNDERSTAND THE PROJECT ON A BASIC LEVEL - You have a Development board (Arudino) Everything gets controlled from this and the code lives inside the chip on this board (this will be your Mainboard) This requires Voltage (positive and Negative) in order to actually work Later you will use the Digital pins to send signals to different things to control those things - Then you have THE MP3 PLAYER (DFRobot Player) - This is your Sound Device. This device needs it's own Power and Ground (Positive and Negative) The speaker will connect directly OFF this device as an output for the sound, it's the only device that doesn't connect to the Arduino Board. NOW THE WAY THE ARDUINO AND MP3 PLAYER COMMUNICATION IS.... Via Tx (Transmit) and Rx (Receive ) Lines TROUBLESHOOTING STEP Assuming you have an Oscilloscope.... Use 2 channels , 1 to view the Tx and 1 for the Rx Hook up the Negative leads to a wire connected to Ground on the Arudino (this will tell you if you the Arudino is actually sending the signals) You will see Data Packets on your scope if it is sending the signals if not.. you will see approx 3V on each channel with no Data Packets if you don't have a digital scope... GET ONE !!! Now... there is an onboard LED that comes off your Arduino and indicates when signals are being sent to the MP3 Player and when it's playing a file In order for the file to be played - The SD card must be formatted FAT32 - can't be larger than 32GB - you have to name your files 0001 0002 etc etc if you want to give them a custom name you can do this 0001_filename1 0002_filename2 so you know what's what Ok, that takes care of the arduino, the MP3 player and the backbone communication between them and the LED on board You then have an I.R. Receiver this requires 3 things from you Power connections, Positive and negative I SUGGEST YOU LOOK AT THE DATASHEET WHERE YOU BOUGHT IT Because they do not all wire up the same (as per this video) if you reverse the voltage, you'll blow the receiver and need to buy a new one Again... If you have a scope and a bench power supply you can connect up your scopes Positive lead to the Data pin and negative lead to the Ground and if the power leads are the right way around, when you press the button on a remote you will see data packets on your scope show up ok, so now..... THE LED STRIPS it's important to note WHICH ONE'S YOU ARE BUYING WS2811 , WS2812, WS2812B, NEOPIXEL, 500 series ???? then you have the RGB Ordering type (so.. if you set it to flash a red light and it's a different colour)... Try changing the code to say GRB (Research this) Now.... Your Strips need VOLTAGE GROUND DATA WIRE You also can't short circuit the connections if you have an oscilloscope you can check the voltage coming into the strips you can connect your scope probes to the input of the strips to see if it's receiving a data packet You need to connect these strips in Parallel and use a separate voltage supplythat will feed up to 4Amps (as USB will only go up to 1Amp) Keep your wiring neat and tidy as you're doing all this , it does help SO TO TAKE SOME WILD GUESSES AT YOUR ISSUES MP3 Player not working - Touch the metal casing on the player... IS IT REALLY REALLY HOT IF YOU LEAVE IT ON FOR LIKE 3MINS OR SO or is there a funny burning smell for some reason ? if so.... you have a short circuit somewhere - Check your Rx and Tx lines, without this MP3 Player can't work - Use your serial Monitor (set to 115200 Baud) to give you troubleshooting information, Example unable to begin would indicate a power issue - You need to determine if the MP3 Player has Power or not Check VCC and Ground for 3V or 5V if no power, then that's the issue If you have Power CHECK RX AND TX For Evidence of Data Packets. if you have Data Packets CHECK THE CODE CHECK THE LIBRARIES Fundamentally.... if the MP3 Player has POWER (Vcc and Ground) if the code is correct if the Tx and Rx are hooked up correctly if Data Packets are being transmitted if the Hex code for the remote controls are correct if the SD Card is formatted correctly and files labelled correctly IT WILL WORK LED STRIPS NOT WORKING Possibly the most common cause that everyone has...... - They need POWER GROUND DATA PIN IT'S LIKELY YOUR LED STRIP IS BLOWN Load the standard FASTLED BLINK CODE Sketch... does it work on that sketch if YES, then you DO NOT have a wiring issue if NO... Then you do have a wiring issue or burned out LED's Remember there is a big difference between Testing on LED's and LED Strips that are Addressable. so basically.... If you have wired Arduino Power and Ground Correctly if you are supplying Power and Ground to the LED Strips if you have connected to the Data Wire to the Arduino and LED Strips correctly if the code is correct IT WILL WORK if nothing else, the STARTUP Sequence will work when you power on the box. TRY THOSE THINGS My guess MP3 Player - You don't have the files in correct position or named correctly - it's likely you blew the shit out of your MP3 Player LEDS - Either Short Circuit - In sufficient Power - You Blew the shit out of the pixels or entire strip - Connections are not correct
I used Autodesk Maya to make these but if I was doing it today, I'd use Fusion 360. It's much easier for this type of work. There's some great tuts on RU-vid for Fusion if you're learning.
That’s okay! I have been running through each of the library versions for the IR and the player. When the Arduino started communicating with the software download, I stopped. Now my flux capacitor is working! I was hoping to verify what I came up with. Still working on getting the MP3 files in the right sequence, but I’ll figure it out! I’m still amazed by what you created! Outstanding job! Thank you for making this possible!
Hi, first of all, GOOD WORK, I am building my flux capacitor and I have almost everything ready, my biggest problem is the lighting, if I wanted to use some classic 5mm leds, could I still use all your code for the arduino? I'm not an expert, I've been approaching this world for a few days, can you give me some advice?
Thank you! Coding would be different for classic LEDs but the timing would be the same. My code uses FastLED which is an Arduino library made for nanoleds. I'm sure you could restructure it to make it work though.
@@RadBenchYT Hi man, I'm sorry if I write to you now but these are questions that come to mind over time, so just one more question, could you tell me the measurements of the long relay tube and the silver tube inside it? I have looked at every single page on the internet and they all say that the long tube must be 70mm and the silver one must be 95mm, are these ok?
@@thebigandrew Im looking for the same type answers. Lenght of the tube, the size of the Flux box cut (2 inches on the sides?). Also ordered most of what he recommends so Im hoping to get the full specs....so good luck to you.
Is it just me or does the parts list not include the actual box (Stahlin J1210HPL) mentioned in the video (0.33)? Considering the cost of the box alone is around $125-$150 it certainly won't be an inexpensive project to build but you can't argue that this thing isn't incredible. The results speak for themselves but it isn't a project for a slacker (or so Mr. Strickland tells me).
Amazing flux capacitor!!! Is there any chance you could link the template you used/the one you created? If its okay I'd like to use it for my own build
@@RadBenchYT thank you!! I dug a little deeper and did end up finding it! Is there a specific size of paper the template is sized to be printed out on? Or is it just kind of trial and error with the sizing?
