Making a hunting knife from a file 

That would be awesome! It would make me feel like someone else is going through the pain with me lol.

Pls do hand sanding is the worst I will fund it if needed

Great, so that we'll keep watching your riveting video instead of keeping a close eye on the hand sanding process and end up missing a few little scratches and divets and having to go back and do it all over again? Or possibly even overdoing it and rounding the grind lines over or taking too much off and having to go regrind and make a whole new (albeit smaller) knife or even scrapping the whole thing? Dude, that's diabolical! You're one sick puppy! I like it. 😁👍

@@iamshredder3587 LOL

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Thanks man! I appreciate you checking it out!

Thanks, and Thank you for watching!

Thanks, I appreciate you watching!

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Thanks man!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you watching.

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks! I appreciate you checking it out!

Thanks, I appreciate you watching!

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Thanks! I appreciate it!

@@Mysticmountainforge You're welcome!

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Thanks Man! I appreciate you watching!

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@@Mysticmountainforge no worries mate , I make my own knives down here in Australia 🙂

Thanks! The mountain man/frontier style is the direction I am currently taking my business. John Cohea, Harvey Dean, Burt Foster, and J. Neilson are who I take a lot of inspiration from.

Thanks! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks, Yes these are older and harden up nicely, I put them through a few tests before my Wakizashi build. They developed a nice hamon too when clayed. I did sear it with a torch, it was a piece that was mainly white but had nice texture so I used the torch to bring out some color in it. I appreciate you watching.

Thanks! I used super blue gun blueing solution you should be able to find it any any sports and outdoors shop, Wal-Mart also has it in their outdoors section, it will be with the gun cleaning kits. I appreciate you watching!

@@Mysticmountainforge Thank you Matt!

Thanks for watching, I greatly appreciate it!

I used super blue solution, you can find it in the outdoor section at Walmart, or on Amazon. I appreciate you watching.

Thanks! I finished off at 400 on this one.

@@Mysticmountainforge great , thanks :)

I used some metal burrs and my rotary carving tool. I appreciate you watching.

Thanks! The reason there is such a big hole through the antler is because you want to get as much of the marrow/pith as you can out so the epoxy will have somethingsolid to attatch too, leaving in a buch will compromise the bond. The reason there isn't any pins is because it is a through tang construction, the tang has all thread welded to it and the pommel cap screws down secure to the handle, I then peened over the thread that was sticking out with a ball peen hammer to ensure it wouldn't loosen off and gave it texture to match the butt cap. If you look closely in the reveal video at the end you can see the sounded over portion sticking up. When tempering I do 400 degrees farenheight in the oven for two one hour cycles, some do it longer it really depends on what hardness you want and the steel type, this works great for me and I work mainly with 1095 and 5160, File metal can sometimes vary in its makeup its always best to do a test knife and check it out in a real world setting, skinning, slicing for a hunter, chopping, whittling for a bushcraft/camp knife. I greatly appreciate you watching!

I heat treat from the forge and don't have a way to judge the temp exactly, I usually go above critical and soak, then to a bright red, then to a dull red for my thermal cycling. As for heat treat I go to a good even heat that is above magnetic, soak then quench, it's not very scientific but I have done it enough to get good consistent results, I do plan on getting a heat treat oven in the future. I do know that these files get good and hard they also behave allot like 1095.

@@Mysticmountainforge from your current videos looks like you’re getting a pretty sophisticated forge shop together

It's getting there slowly, my next big purchases will be the heat treat oven and a small lathe. I'm hoping to get a motor for my other 2x72 soon

@@Mysticmountainforge 👍

Thanks! It was Sabaton.

@@Mysticmountainforge I guess I wasn't too far off then as they have a similar sound. Keep up the excellent forging!

From start to finish If I wasn't filming it around 2 days. That is if everything goes right, normally for a knife order like this I will allot myself a week. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!

I haven't had any trouble with knives doing that and most of the knives I sell are to hunters and butchers, I work mainly with 1095 and I edge quench. I haven't had anyone experience brittleness in any of my blades yet. Thanks for watching.

This was an order for a hidden tang knife with elk antler handle, the client didn't want a full tang knife, and didn't want the antler cut up but left in its natural state.

It was an 18 inch Nicholson file, I appreciate you watching!

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You can find me on Facebook at facebook.com/MysticMountainForge but I am not taking any custom orders of any kind for the forseeable future. I appreciate you watching.

I am working on creating download file to share in the future. I appreciate you watching!

Use oil, it works great, you can use water but you will risk it almost certainly getting a crack. I had no issue getting it to skate a file with an oil quench.

@@Mysticmountainforge OK man, thank you!

Thanks, The reason I removed so much from the center portion of the antler is because the pith inside if not fully saturated with epoxy can actually seperate from the epoxy which will affect the structure of the handle. It is most usually common practice to remove as much of it as you can. I appreciate you watching!

@@Mysticmountainforge gracias por aclarlo, tal vez en el futuro debería estabilizar con resina antes de agujerear. Saludos desde Argentina

Truth, it was an error on my part, all of the other orders I had been working on up to this point had a swivel joint connection to help align the tang because they were made with files that didn't have the handle and I just didn't think about it at the time but it would have been the better rout to go, and doing it over again that is exactly what I would have done. I appreciate you watching!

@@Mysticmountainforge in no way was I dismissing your talent and you made a handsome knife. I am a amateur and really like your bevels and how you shaped your blade. Very nice.

Truth, I just suck really bad at doing it that way right now, but I am working on making it my prefered way to go when doing threaded tangs. I appreciate you watching.

@@Mysticmountainforge 🙂👍