Meu nome é Ricardo. I'm in Ribeirão Preto-SP, Brazil. Congratulations on the detailed video showing the construction step by step. I've been watching videos about KUMIKO for a long time, but yours is the best of all. Thank you very much for the posted video.
HI Gerald. Thanks for watching my video. As far as changing the blade whenever I start making the strips I switch to a rip blade which makes cleaner cuts as compared to my combination blade. My rip blade is a Freud with 32 teeth and is specifically for ripping.
Great job! Thanks for not including loud background music. Really. Did you use a planning jig or drum sander so the Kumiko thickness matches that of the saw blade kerf?
Hi Jim. Thanks for the kind words! I've been watching some videos lately where they either talk way to much and way to fast or have music that just doesn't seem to work. I think some light, and I emphasize the word light, music is ok. Great question on the strips. I go right off the saw. I first thickness the basswood to 1/2" then I do a bunch of test rips until I nail the thickness to have the pieces fit into the kerf of the blade. I hope that made sense. Thanks so much. Steve
@@theblackwalnutstudio Thanks for the quick reply Steve. That does make since to me. I just retired 12.31.2020 and now I have time to play with all of my machines. :) I've watched a TON of Kumiko videos and they all use a planning jig or drum sander to get the Kumiko to the final thickness. And I wondered why. And I'm still wondering. I can see where they want to remove the machine markings. But I can't see the rest. I would assume the Kumiko right off the saw blade is dead on within 0.003" which I assume is good enough. Most of the videos/guys I'm referring to are doing 60 degree grids and rather complicated patterns. Because they use a planning jig, drum sander or wide belt sander I assumed it had to be done that way. I will have to post this question to them. Really interested in the reply. Just want to say thanks again for the Kumiko videos. Watching you do the square grid really looks simple. Most of the one I study are Mike Farrington and Wood Art Studio. I'll post the question to them. if you're interested in more patterns check out Wood Art Studio. He is working on a LARGE panel.
@@jimw544 I will get saw marks if I’m not pushing properly or the wood starts warping but using basswood it surprising how much it does not show. Burn marks will definitely show but saw marks not so much. There are various ways of doing it much like everything in woodworking but to me I just want to get them cut and start the quiet and peaceful work of assembling and creating the pattern. I want to do some of the other patterns more this year but not sure where my angle kumiko cutting jigs went. Maybe in a fit of rage-cleaning when I couldn’t find something it got tossed. Will just have to make another. To be honest the asa-no-ha pattern is really nice and that’s the one I do the most.
@@theblackwalnutstudio I agree. All that cutting of the long Kumiko strips is not my favorite thing to do. For the angle jigs, I've seen Mike get the needed angle using a 12" disk sander and you should see Wood Art Studio cut 3 at a time on a chop saw. Makes me wonder if you even need the angle jigs/blocks.
Nice video. Curious about a couple of the tools you are using: 1 - the right angle guide clamp used for that first cut , and 2 - the chisel - it’s not like any chisel I’m familiar with. Is that custom made? Can you post links on where to get them if commercially available?
Thanks very much. Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. Those tools are both from Lee Valley Tools. The right angle saw guide is www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/saw-guides/102544-veritas-right-angle-saw-guide?item=05T0401 and the chisel is a Flushing Chisel www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/chisels/specialty/110088-veritas-flushing-chisel-handle-and-blade-sets?item=05S3432 I find it more comfortable to use a wide chisel plus it also helps register it against the blocks. I was using a 2" chisel that was a bit heavy. These flushing chisels, while not made for Kumiko, work really well and are lighter and better balanced. I use the 1-1/2" flushing chisel. I hope that helps out a bit. Thanks Steve
Die Entstehung eines Kumikos sieht immer so einfach aus und doch steckt viel Arbeit darin, darf man Erfahren wie lange sie für dieses Kumiko brauchten? Gruß aus Deutschland The Creation of a Kumiko always looks so simple and yet there is a lot of work in it, can we find out how long it took for this kumiko? greetings from Germany
Hi and thanks for watching. It is both simple and involved however it is a lot of fun and relaxing. Once the machine work is done the quiet handwork is very enjoyable. The first one will take longer but subsequent versions can take as little as 20 mins or longer if you take your time and enjoy the process. I hope that helps. Thanks. Steve
There are plenty of different sizes of squares air panels so I can’t really give you that dimension. However, the strips are 1/8” thick which is the kerf of the table saw blade. In this case I made the strips 1/2” wide so that it stands 1/2” above the bench. When you make your outer grid I make the half laps with the 1/8” thick blade. Hope that helps.
@@theblackwalnutstudio 🤗 Just advice. 1- 1.5 cm x 20 cm wood 2- make the cuts for the all groove, so cut the all pits 3- then 2mm x 15mm (not the grooves one by one, cut them all at first) ( 🧐 google translate) I wish you convenience, perfect works 👏👏, see you, goodbye
@@turkulerturkusoylerturkule9455 The outer grid is approximately 3mm x 12mm x 120mm. They are cut halfway for half lap joinery with even spacing. The smaller inner pieces are also 3mm x 12mm but vary in length. Yes, group the pieces and cut them together. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching.
