I actually thought about that after I've milled to about a 3 inches wide along the grain. You can actually groove first as long as you mill along the cross grain, otherwise, you will end up having end grain toward the show face. Thanks for the interest... ^^
Thank you so much! This is by far the best explanation of kumiko process on RU-vid. I have made 15 kumiko shoji lanterns (90 degree grid) but am trying to expand my skillset to more complicated kumiko projects (mitsu-kude and such) and your videos are unbelievably helpful. Thank you so much, I cannot wait to watch the rest of this amazing series!
This is the best thing on youtube, very fascinating to watch and so skilled. About to start making some jigs and I hope to attempt it soon ! Hello from Somerset in the UK!
Thanks so much for your wonderful words. I would love to go to UK and have a workshop at someday. About the jigs, you can eliminate the sliding dovetail as I stated in the video. The jig is heavy enough and doesn't really need a clamping base.
this is great! Can't wait for the next video. What kind of blade are you using in the table saw with the sled? Can soft maple be used for the grid instead of western cedar? in the first or second video when the lumber was being ripped you said to prevent over cuts you need to flip and still joint. Please explain.
Thanks.. The blade I'm using for the grid making is Forest's #1 Grind blade which is a flat top blade. For the thinner stock(kumiko), it's just a regular thin kerf ATB blade. I couldn't find the flat top blade for the thin kerf. A soft maple is perfectly fine to use. The reason for jointing during the rip cut is because even if you flip the stock after each cut, you will still get an over cut on the corner side after multiple cuts. Also the wood will move eventually, which is caused by stress relief and the heat caused by the blade during the cutting.
@@WoodArtStudio1 Thank you for the quick reply. So in the end I need a flat tooth blade for the notches and running the wood thru a thickness planer or drum sander is a must. They need to be a little over size.
It will be nice to have all the machines that was mentioned. But, it's not a must.. I'm just utilizing from what we have available. You still can do the money cut from the table saw by making it longer and cut off the ends that might have been over cut. Or rip it to about 1/32" thicker and trim it with a hand plane.
Thanks. ^^ I have three different brands on Dozuki saws. One made by Hishika Company (Hand made), one by Matsukawa (Government certified), and one also handmade, my favorite, but I forgot his name. He has retired as far as I know.
