Thanks for the jigsaw template. We have been able to make some fantastic resources for our Learning Team to use with visiting students at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in New Zealand. 😀
That was very helpfull, even if I don't have the same Hardware as you, especially the Lasercutter is much better! But it was still pretty helpfull, thank you very much!
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing. I have a question, though: Why do you need to first cut out the frame? Can't you just glue the image on the plywood and then cut it all in one action?
Yes you can totally do this. Cutting the blank first potentially helps keep the gluing step more organized but I think doing it the way you suggest would be totally fine. -Toby
Hey Hi i am looking for a software in order to create very unique and individuell cutting patterns also i want to create whimsies. Would they be available in the Pro Version? Also how long does it take for example to cut a 810x570mm 1000 pieces puzzle with a thicknesss of 4mm?
We glued the printed picture to the wood, then applied masking, then cut out the jigsaw puzzle on the laser. You'll likely want to apply masking to avoid char on your puzzle. If you have a very well tuned (expensive) laser and air exhaust you can get away with not applying masking. Hope this helps!
You're right that they say they don't recommend that tape for laser cutters but I and other people have used it without issue. If you want a masking tape that is specified for lasers, I've also used this one from Johnson Plastics which works well: www.jpplus.com/paper-masking-for-laser-engraving
We use either this masking tape amzn.to/3ibC3HE or this one from Johnson Plastics www.jpplus.com/paper-masking-for-laser-engraving For the settings, we cut this on a Glowforge which has built in settings for 1/8 inch plywood. But whatever settings you normally use for 1/8 inch plywood should work. That is, the photo and masking shouldn't make a difference to the cut settings.
At least with my Glowforge I get char on both the front and back of the cut. On the back it's usually "flash back" where the laser hits the honeycomb. If you figure out a technique though let us know! I know, for example, that Nervous System (they sell lots of great puzzles) has a really fancy laser and even fancier exhaust and they can cut so cleanly that they don't need to mask the design at all. -Toby
