Your marquetry has inspired me to try to learn how to do it. I have Silas Kopf's book on order from the USA but it will take a while to get here. In the mean time I am spending quite a few long nights cutting curved and angled lines (ever smaller curves, ever sharper angles). I am getting OK at it but have much room for improvement. I have also started building pictures (an art in itself) and again it's OK but a long way to go yet. Next is to include sand shading. I live very close to a beach in Australia. Can I use clean beach sand? Thank you
Nice to hear you enjoy marquetry Danny. You can try the sand. I don't know the grain size, that can make a difference in heat transfer. Thick veneer is more difficult, it has to be heated longer, so it can deform due to the rapid drying. Have fun !
@@ronnie_rozenga Maybe if I oven dry (not too much) the initial stock and then reduce to an initial 4mm and see if it moves further and then after that reduce to 3mm. I bend timber to about a 1metre radius using a dry oven for chair backs and similar.
@@Danny-ul4sq You can try, but keep in mind that the wood will absorb moisture again later on and should therefore be able to increase in volume again. Therefore I would only use it for specific parts.
Hi Ronnie, can you please tell me the make and model of your light? I love working on marquetry but have difficulty due to some lower back issues. A light like yours may actually allow me to continue again. Thank you!
The brand of my lamp no longer exists unfortunately. But if you are looking for "magnifying lamp" on the internet, you can find plenty of alternatives. I hope you can resume your work.
My question is if you cut the shape and the hole at the same time, how come there is no space around, there should be a gap of the thickness of the blade or is it just that thin, the blade of the saw
The table of the scroll saw is tilted a few degrees. This way the pieces get a wedge-shape and eliminate the saw thickness. So the pieces fit without a gap.
@@ronnie_rozenga that is actually genius, of course it is. I would struggle recreating what you did if I didn't ask. You actually made me want to do some more marquetry. I am stuck making stuff from laminated boards. I should do some more woodworking with actual wood, but that would have to be a hobby not a job
Hello Tim, my veneer is 2.5 - 3mm thick. The angle of the table is about 7 degrees, but that can vary. It depends on the thickness of the veneer and the thickness of the sawblade. The best way is to make some samples first, to see or it fits well. The blades I use are the Pebeco 3 blades.
The trick is to tilt the scroll saw table a few degrees. In this way the part to be inserted will be slightly larger due to the resulting wedge shape and will fit seamlessly. If you want to insert from above, cut clockwise. If you want to insert from the bottom, cut counterclockwise.
