Public Patreon Post of Darcy Motif is Here: www.patreon.com/posts/darcy-waistcoat-65521093 Laughing Moon pattern 125 View C: www.laughingmoonmercantile.com/product-page/125-download-men-s-vest-1795-1817
This, in my humble opinion, is the whole point of education! To teach you enough to think critically and extrapolate accordingly (and also to know you must always verify). Also, your waistcoat is enchanting. 💜
The Gods Of Fiddly Tailoring sound like they belong in Discworld next to Anoia, Goddess of Things Stuck In Drawers. So, thank you for that mental picture.
I love your content. Your waistcoat is INCREDIBLE! I even loved the mock up! Your narration is clever and interesting, but also poetic in a way that lures me to relax and enjoy your video. 🥰
The pieced together from scrap mockup was adorable! I hope you keep it. Also historically accurate! Exactly what would have been done, though maybe not for a Darcy, but for a younger son from a less prosperous family....
I looove making educated guesses. It's such a good feeling when several topics come together in a way where you see the pattern and interwoven things too.
The waistcoat is perfect on you. I didn't realize all the ins and outs that came together in history to end up as the modern men's suit. Very interesting. Take care.
That waist coat is stunning!! You so nailed that one. I totally understand why you want to wear it always! The research was also amazing! I love the research! No matter how you present it
It was a lot of fun to watch everything come together as well as having your voice over on the process. I'm really looking forward to the next videos on the Darcy project! 😘
You freaking nailed it Liz! And I really enjoyed you choosing, rather than to cut out the making process, to speed through it while narrating research and such. Thought it was a super fun approach to the video. Thank you for sharing! Can't wait to see the complete outfit. It's totally coming together beautifully.
I love this style of vest, especially on you! The fabric is lovely, perfect for the vest. My interesting rabbit hole of research that involved Wikipedia was for my Masters thesis. I was attempting to show a connection between Ellen Dissanyake's theory of "Artification," epigenetics, and art therapy. I was able to add several articles to the bibliography on her page. ( I just looked it up again, and my gosh her page has expanded!) I had a whee of a time doing tons of hard-copy research and online research for the paper! The essence of my theory is that human "artification" (that is to elaborate, exaggerate, amplify, embellish, repeat with variation) has the epigenetic power to unlock "trussed up" genes, allowing them to express properly. Which, I think,, is how art therapy works. So there's another rabbit hole for anyone who is interested!
I think the coolest fact I found down a Wikipedia rabbit hole was that Ann Radcliffe (author of, among many other works, "The Mysteries of Udolpho," read by Catherine Morland in "Northanger Abbey") had only one known childhood friend - Sukey Wedgwood, daughter of the famed Josiah Wedgwood.
Ah, there's nothing quite like the thrill of belly-flopping your way through the interweb rabbit holes (I refer to this as "Magpie Mind"). It's how I started sewing (that and Ms. Banner and her Sherlock adventure). It's how I ended up with a my first ever fully lined leather belt, currently sitting beside me in a half sewn state. That waistcoat is amazing. It looks so good on you. Well done. {side note - Ugh. Chicago Style attributes. I grew up in Psychology so it's something I'm going to have to resolve myself into understanding when I head back to school part-time in the fall for Art History...} - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 Thanks. I'm looking to eventually end up with my MA in Art History. Probably specializing in the early half of the 20th century, but we'll see where I land.
i mean amazing work (as always ) but the thing that literally made me jump up in my seat was the fact that FINALLY someone mentioned PERSIAN Bote (paisely), and didn't say something along the lines of "oh it's this design that randomly came either from India or Ottoman empire. THANK YOU! Sincerely, A Persian 😂🙈 P.S. Botté (literaly the bush or the shrub), is the persian graphic representation of the cypress tree, a sacred element in the pre0islamic Zoroastrian religion of Iran (or as it was known at the time, EranShahr or Airyana Vaeja, depending on the period), and it symbolises freedom, liberty of spirit.
That’s why waistcoats in all sorts of fun and fabulous patterns and prints (as well as embroidery for those who had the money and/or ability) were so popular!
@@ragnkja I've made quite a few silk ones in the past for male friends and relations for family weddings etc. (although contemporary rather than historical; there's a Vogue pattern I mostly used, V7488 (if it's even in print any more).
So much I loved about this...most importantly, the fact that continually clicking on the first Wikipedia link will eventually lead you to philosophy! Also loved the going wide and showing "everything"...although I could have swapped the views of your back while sewing for a tiny bit more about details of your vest (such as the second mockup on your dressform or lining/interfacing/tailoring of your waistcoat-but that is nitpicky- I just find these videos on historical men's clothing adapted for female form fascinating (Nicole Rudolph did a suit too) ..and you sent me down a "Zupan" rabbit hole... Loved this
Absolutely loved this video! I've always been slightly intimidated with making "mens" clothes, especially historical ones, since I am, unfortunately, ferry curvy. It was interesting to see what adjustment you made. I also enjoyed the Wikipedia rabbit hole you went down. Can't wait to see what you do for the next video!
The buttons and buttonholes were done on the second day (purple pirate shirt day!), and the first two mockups were done in the previous week. But yes, the greater portion of it was done the same day.
@@LizCapism Dang. So this might not be too far out of my reach. Adding "find some nice fabric for a waistcoat" to my to-do list. Was that wool? I don't recall you saying.
My college days predated the whole Wiki thing, but mom and dad had splurged for us with an entire Britannica set, and a second hand World Book set... plus thousands of books our family had collected over 3 generations. Yes, it was in fact very fun to come across a term in a book written before the second Great War, and have to trail our way through anywhere from 2 to 5 encyclopedias to learn about it. That is a handsome waistcoat... have you gone into the other parts of the Royal set?
Brilliant video as always. I hope you eventually find the "right" fabric for the waistcoat, I do love the one you settled one. I love Wikipedia rabbit holes. Recently went on an adventure looking through Danish royalty in the 18th century and wound up reading about the consolidation/restructuring of the Danish counties in the 1970s. I didn't find the answer I was looking for (family lore says we're related to the Danish monarchy in 17th or 18th century) but I still learned a lot.
That waistcoat looks amazing!! Ugh, I’ve already got way too many items I want to make and wear, and not enough spoons to get them all done! What I have in mind is a later feminine one, with a lower opening in front and lapels that I can stick buttons and pins on.
The waistcoat is gorgeous. I smiled about your rabbit hole journey. Pinterest is my downfall. Hunting Medieval Swedish clothing for the SCA leads to weird hops, skips, and jumps. Pinterest>>website>>wikipedia>>links>>museum website>>historical papers>>museum websites>>re-creation websites>>sewist blogs>>etc... Often an hours long bunny trail. One such lead me to the idea that Norse apron dresses were the ancestors of sarafan dresses. Still trying to retrace that particular one.
I think the waistcoat front in the mini is a midweight linen, something used for upholstery. There is a video on youtube from the curator of the Bath costume museum, who ran the exhibition of the P&P95 costumes and she said a lot of the fabrics were upholstery fabrics from the 90s, not necessarily historically accurate. Burnley and Trowbridge has a brick striped linen that is very similar. I would contact them about finding a green one. There is a seller on etsy (linenography) that has a moss green pinstripe linen, but it looks more gray than the screen version. That might actually be the lighting or the DVD processing...if you have been in the fandom a while you might remember the absolute FUROR over the coloring of the DVD...
Fun little tidbit for those interested in researching the wikipedia rabbit hole points further: There's a movement which centers around creating spaces designed for a practice called "learning in public." One such space is called a "digital garden," a cross between a blog and a wiki. Find some digital gardens you like and start exploring!
To me the internet was the wonders of wonders because of all the information I could get. I'm old enough to know what a disquete means, those ones that you held with both hands to slide in your pc. So whenever I wanted to investigate something I could only use the books we owned. Unfortunately I couldn't go to the public library because my father never allowed us to go out alone and my mother had to care for 5 kids. The first time I went to a library I almost wept... I don't even remember the ride back home. Either way, when the internet came to my home, I was suddenly given the world. Adding to that, the evolution it has had, sometimes I think it was not entirely a good thing because of my hyperfocus. But it's great in any case, when I eat a gingerbread cookie and wonder about the entomology of the word, and I can google it on my phone and end up watching old Hungarian folktale videos. 🥰
I can’t remember any specific hyperlink hopping occasion that was particularly far-flung, but I’ve definitely had times when I’ve caught myself thinking “how did I get here?” Opening links in new tabs makes it a lot easier to keep track of my train of thought, but it can also lead to _way_ too many open tabs. xD
I've been trying to find more information about rain protection in military uniforms of the 19th century and First World War. Apparently the Austro-Hungarians had a hooded cape in addition to their greatcoat, which was presumably waterproof and I've found a tailors manual for British officers' uniforms from 1903 that states that an overcoat should be waterproof, but not how it should be waterproofed. Generally secondary sources talk about uniforms in terms of the tunic, trousers and load bearing equipment. When they mention outer garments, they do not mention anything beyond the greatcoat and that it is wool. They don't discuss fulling, wax or lanolin as water resistance measures. I haven't been able to find much on earlier uniforms (insofar as I have found anything at all), just that they wore greatcoats. Although a wool greatcoat could offer some protection against rain, it will still get wet and need to dry, and they had waterproof cloth available such as oilcloth throughout the 19th century.
Yes! This kind of thing is so baffling when I try to look for specifics on specific garments. It seems to be so inconsistent as to what people describe in detail and what is left with only a few words.
The knowledge that the writer assumes the reader will have often makes it hard for us today to understand what exactly was implied. If I say “modern raincoat” you probably have a pretty accurate idea of what I mean even if you don’t know exactly what materials and techniques went into making it, right?
@@LizCapism You'd think "how did soldiers stay dry" would be an easy question to find the answer to, especially because reenactors would prefer to stay dry. Apparently not. Even if the answer is just using a greatcoat and have to periodically dry it, why can't anyone just say that? And that would raise the question as to why waterproof outer layers were added so late.
What a lovely waistcoat! And so perfectly tailored. Please stop tempting me with more LM patterns... I already have their Victorian/Edwardian waistcoat patterns that I'm playing with and there's only so much time in a day! I dunno what the English departments use above the 42nd parallel but down here they use the MLA, which is so hideous that it makes me disturbingly fond of the Chicago Manual of Style in comparison. Granted, I lean heavier to the history side than the literature...
Thanks a lot! Laughing Moon keeps knocking it out of the park. We use MLA in Canada too. Honestly, it’s not that I prefer MLA, it’s just that it’s so much simpler and so I can just forget about it for the most part. Chicago just makes my head spin. Thanks for watching!
Dear Liz, first of all what a beautiful waistcoat you created! I love the fit, the fabric and the combination with the trousers. Talking about rabbitholes, this "be bold" quotation made me want to write something very clever and quoting the original in german. I mean when you have a famous author as a fellow countryman why not show the beauty of the language? Funnily enough, I could not find the quote by Johann Wolfgang which led to further going down this particular rabbithole. I finally ended up in ... Wikipedia ... and in the company of a fellow called Basil King, by the way a candian clergy man, who is supposed to be the author of "be bold..." but in a slightly more elaborate version. From there I slid via rotten tomatoes to a movie called Almost famous, where the character Elaine, played by Frances McDormand is saying "Be bold, and mighty forces will come to your aid. Goethe said that." At that point I jumped out of the rabbithole as I could not follow my initial plan of quoting in german and as I got hungry and as Miko insisted on me leaving the internet and going on a walk. So this is my rabbitholestory. I do love that waistcoat and think you should wear one every day! Yours Fanny
I think the wildest wiki driven rabbithole I’ve been on in a while started with studying the Portland shanghai tunnels and the Royal Navy and by the end I was researching the history of the mariner’s cap/fiddler’s cap which lead almost a century from where I started to how it was worn by Jews when yarmulke’s and other traditionally Jewish headwear was outlawed in Russia.
It really did end up looking wonderful, I'd be very impressed if anyone told me they made it! Also, is that your natural hair colour? It's so shiny and lovely ☺️ (I don't usually make personal remarks, but it is a lovely colour!)
Maybe not the wildest Wikipedia rabbit hole but : Anna Katherine Green-mother of the detective novel and inspiration for Agatha Christie which split into two pathways: novels, serialization, and detective fiction (predictably) and the other pathway was pathways-Seriously, I went through strolling through small New England towns where pathways were paved to create roads to urban transportation planning to use of personal automobiles versus non automotive means of travel...I appreciate you love of rabbit holes
And my brain heard, "I made a very quick first mockup just to see how wrong it was" ...and that will come up again when I try my next dumb idea, a reversible vest with pockets... still not sure how I'm doing that, but I've got time to think about it since I've only got the fabric for one side of said vest. Piping will be involved, and I have to sort out closures... I have wound up all kinds of interesting places on the internet, but my husband is really the one who ends up in weird places. Like one historian who was researching the name "Tiffany" and learned so much that his "what I learned while researching this name" video was at least twice the length as the original video... with military, martial arts and chess as his interests, he gets some pretty fun places with some pretty interesting crossovers... I don't tend to jump that deep down the holes because my brain doesn't retain the information anyways unless it was REALLY interesting or directly related to something I'm very interested in, but I have ended up learning songs in 4 different languages that I don't speak, so there's that, at least.
I have no idea if this is completely ridiculous but I'm imagining the pockets being accessible from both sides... It's doing my head in trying to imagine how you'd achieve such a feat ... I guess perhaps a flap inside that is sewn to the edges of the pocket but isn't a full length pocket piece. Ah on second thought it'd probably compromise the structure of the garment if the top of the pocket wasn't secured properly. Nevermind! Fun tangent to go on!
@@helenm1085 I know, right? I'm wondering if I could do a welted pocket from one side and a flap on the other at a slightly different level so I don't just drop my phone down my pants :D Or maybe it's an inside pocket on one side, outside pocket on the other? There will be so many mockups...
I wasn't allowed to sew vests while living at home. Maybe it's because I'm a member of a busty tribe. Maybe because my mother didn't wear them, and couldn't see their value in a wardrobe. Since I am a box, I haven't really given a flying fart whether an item of clothing comes from the boys', juniors', men's or women's department, as long as it fits. My first blue jeans were boys because that is what fits my shape. And, I've never felt limited by gender labels on clothing as long as their suitable. I wore Carhart before Carhart caught on the farm women wore sturdy coveralls and bibs too. And they spiraled down into less sturdy female targeted versions. Pink? Seriously? Pink to go out in mud and cold and ice to do chores. Pink? Maybe for the "boys".
Honestly, being of a shape where you're able to shop in the men's dept is a blessing in disguise, the clothing is usually better made with sturdier fabrics, less expensive, and HAS FRIGGING POCKETS. Also, you'll see alteration services in the men's dept, not the women's... grrggghhhh.... I have reconciled with pink (I have a hot pink breast cancer awareness skate lace cut in half for my workboots, and whatever the heck it's made of does not stain no matter what I step in!). I can only ever find fitting women's pants when the style is off the hip, because I have a short torso, thick waist, no hips, and low rise. Thankfully once I got my hands on a sewing machine I was allowed to make whatever I wanted, usually the reason I was sewing it is because I coudn't find it in the store. But a ban on making a certain clothing item is as weird to me as my grandfather's ban on pizza in the house because he didn't like it (little did he know my grandmother kept a stash of frozen personal pizzas and would eat them when he was out of the house - can tell I came from a long line of good little confirmists - not!).
Wikipedia is an infinite rabbit hole, it’s not just going down them but tunneling between them. Can’t begin to quantify my wiki time, but it’s December - time to PayPal them some money! They need it to stay up.
Great video, quite enjoyed watching it. If you are interested, there is a channel called "The Gentleman's Gazette". They have got very informative guides covering Black Tie, White Tie and almost anything else related to menswear from around 1910s to the modern days.
Apparently not been deep enough into the rabbit hole as i never got to the philosophy page... but then again, my rabbit hole is more on youtube or pinterest.
