Making a Mini Router Table 

I wish you luck in your project James. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your comment.

You're very welcome. I'm glad that you were able to make a successful router table. Thanks for tuning in and for sharing your story. I love it.

Glad that you like it Tim. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

I have been clamping one leg between a bench dog and a quick release clamp and the other leg with a Quick Grip. Works perfectly. Your idea would be fantastic as well and it would definitely be a great addition to the table. Glad to hear that you liked the project Karl. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to chime in with your suggestion. It's awesome.

I'm glad to hear that you find my show to be helpful. I appreciate you tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words. Thank you.

I'm glad that you liked the project Alan. Since I've made this, I'm surprised at how much use it gets. Sometimes, you don't want to set up the big machine for working on smaller stuff so this smaller table has been just perfect for me. Good luck on your project and thanks for tuning in to the show.

If having it further back is what suits you and makes the project more useable for you Jack, then by all means, that is how you should do it. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your project.

I was trying to keep it as simple as I could Jim. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

I'm always amazed at what my viewers notice in the background. I'm going to have to start hiding this stuff. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show Randy. Glad that you liked the project.

I've heard that 2nd half of the saying many times. "Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt". Mind you, I've only heard it from the older generations. LOL. Glad that you found the build to be interesting Paul. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment. It's very much appreciated.

You're very welcome Raymond. I'm glad that you liked the project. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.

You would be 100% right that normally the flow would be from right to left in this case and if this were a heavier cut that I was doing, I would have gone that way. However, with walnut and the dovetail bit I was comfortable with the climb routing due to the little amount of material I was removing. I didn't want the material to be all chipped out. In hindsight, you are right and I should have gone the other way. Thanks for pointing that out and for tuning in to the show.

Glad that you liked it Mark. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

Glad that you liked the show Marc. If you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.

Glad that you liked it Newton. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

@@acutabove_woodworkings Would never miss an episode!

@@newtonmiller8810 I'm glad to hear that. I appreciate your dedication to the channel.

I did make a model of one of those but I don't think I ever filmed it. It was however, featured on the channel's Facebook page. Here's a link to the album. facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1950537441831978&type=3 I hope you like it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

I'm going to assume that you mean my INCRA T-rules Garrett. They are made by INCRA and are available directly from them at incra.com. I got mine from Lee Valley Tools. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.

Glad that you liked the project Barry. You're not the only one to comment on seeing the table and wondering if there was going to be a build. LOL. It's a good thing that I don't keep anything "shady" in my shop as the viewers of the show would rat me out instantly. They notice EVERYTHING!!! LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir. It's very much appreciated.

I'm loving those roller stock guides Doug. For smaller pieces, they aren't really practical but for anything 2" in width and over, I find them to be fantastic. They hold the stock down perfectly, they are easy to set up, they pull the stock tight to the fence and they act as a feather board as well. I just love them. They were a little on the pricey side but I don't regret it one bit. They have definitely been an asset in the shop. As for the router table, I wasn't sure how much use I would have for one either but I have to say that I have been using this thing more and more and I am glad that I made it. I'm glad that you found the show interesting and who knows, one day you might have a use for one and you will know exactly where to come to get the instructions to make it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

I did consider melamine Paul and yes, I have some in the scrap pile. LOL. To be honest, I just didn't want a melamine top on this one. Plywood was in my head from the get-go and that is what I went with. If there ever comes a time where I find that there is too much friction between the table and the work piece, I can always replace the top with a melamine one. The table top is easy enough to make and reproduce. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to chime in with your ideas. It's appreciated.

That marking gauge is called a T-rule and they are made by INCRA. You can get them at most woodworking suppliers or directly from incra.com. I got mine from Lee Valley Tools. Here's a link. I hope it helps. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/58877-incra-t-rules Thanks for tuning in to the show.

​@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you, I see they are different lengths too.

@@timlist4173 They are. I have the 6", 12" and the 18" and I use them the most in that order. My 6" gets used constantly, my 12" gets used occasionally and my 18" gets used rarely. (but it does get used) I hope this helps.

The fence on any router table doesn't need to be exactly square to the table Jeffrey. It's not like a table saw fence where if the ripping fence isn't square to the blade, it will bind. The cutting surface on a router bit is very minute and the fence can be completely out of square and still function as you want it to as long as the distance from the fence to the bit is correct. Eyeballing the fence for square is just fine. Because you don't need the fence to be square, you can line up the fence roughly where you want it and then lightly tighten one of the jig knobs on the fence to form a pivot point. From there, you can move the other side of the fence in or out to get your final dimension and when you are happy with the distance from the fence to the bit, tighten both knobs down. A test cut on scrap stock can verify your setting. Once again, it is not necessary for the fence to be square to the table when it comes to router table fences. I hope this helps Jeffrey. Thanks for tuning in.

$100 for a piece of plywood?!?!?!?!?! What the heck?!?!?!?! Have you got a cheaper supplier that you are hiding from the rest of us? LOL. Obviously, this little router table would be a secondary table to a full sized unit but if this was being build as a main router table for a smaller shop, those slots could be cut with a handheld router, a scroll saw, coping saw or a whole host of other means. While I know your comment was meant to be humorous (it made me laugh anyway) it also made me think about "what if people were making this as their main table because they didn't have a large router table and were only starting out in the craft". Good point. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your comment. I had a good chuckle at that. LOL.

I am assuming that you are referring to the INCRA T-rule. They are available directly from INCRA.com or from most woodworking suppliers. I got mine from Lee Valley Tools. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Arthur.

You're 100% right on that Steve. Don't want the piece to get pinched between the fence and the spinning bit and become a projectile. Thanks for pointing it out and for tuning in.