Even with all the equipment you have today to manufacture these wonders, it is only possible if you have the will and knowledge to operate them, not to mention your brilliant ideas. Congratulations my friend.
8:16 you designed your motor the wrong way, the narrowing in the cavity should be at the top not the bottom. Your shaft should be closer to the ports, not further. Also as springs you can use aluminum from a cola can, because it's springy. You only need enough pressure to hold the vanes against the housing, once there's compressed air a positive pressure forms behind the vanes and pushes them out.
Yeah, I kinda looked at it funny and double checked, it's backwards... XD Aluminium as spring will fail due to work hardening, BUT cutting small strips from a measuring tape won't.
@@nixie2462 actually the aluminum in aluminum cans counts as forged hence why it's so springy and can be used as a spring because it has a much higher yeld strength.
You can use it as an oil pump too. Two mods: 1. you need springs, and i suggest you use spring steel cut and shaped like a V to fit in behind the vanes. 2. The faces of the vanes need to be square to the casing. You can give them the smallest of chamfering, but they really need to be flush with the case when touching. Source: i copied a car oil pump to make a miniature oil pump for an RC airplane engine. I used ceramic vanes (cut and lapped from a small ceramic blade handle) and a stainless steel casement, with two teflon shims as faces, and clock spring sections bent as springs. Worked a little too well, so i had to cut a small relief into every second blade to down the pressure a little.
That'd be an awesome water pump. You could put the shaft into a dremel or drill and run an intake hose into some water and have a hose on the output and probably pump some serious water with that little thing. Awesome build!!!!
Really cool, I know exactly what you're after. Look into dental air motors/drills -- Most dental high-speed air handpieces use micro air turbines (as opposed to vane rotors) and those drills easily do 100-150,000rpm. My father was a dentist and used to replace turbines all of the time. They also operate at unusually low pressure for the torque, 30-60psi
Basic vane impeller design. You see them in oil pumps (commonly used in cars), some air tools. Nothing special outside the fact that he used plastic and aluminium, usually, they are steel, and the vanes (the little moving squares) are hardened metal.
Is the rotor offset towards the bottom of the intake and exhaust ports so the air is forced to move faster in turn making higher rpm? my mind is thinking more surface area on the rotor blades will create more torue, but possibly less rpm? would be cool to hear your thoughts.
You are right the rotor is offset I was surprised to see it work it is also the reason why it was stoling and the air was moving freely towards exost and with the presecion he made it , it was lacking power. It's unclear to me why he did it may be it is a another design or he didn't realize till it's too late 😁. Let me hear if he replied to you
was trying to figure this out myself and came to the same thought train as far as compressing the air, but i still feel it would take the path of least resistance which would be over the top, there has to be a good amount of backpressure anyway holding the motor back if it is indeed not going over the top.
I can’t explain it in the comments section. But i saw a video once „how do pumps work“ or „the different types of pumps“ You can wonderfully figure out why the axis is offset then and you can understand that it’s important to be offset. It’s not just a rotor, it’s a pump.
I thought it would work better if it was offset towards the top, so the air comes in, travels down around the bottom( which has a larger air space) then up the side and exit the exhaust side.
Before you change anything, I recommend doing a pump characterization. All you need is a flow meter, a manometer or other pressure gauge, some sort of adjustable flow restriction (valve), and a way to drive the pump. This will give you the information you need to size one properly for whatever engine you want to attach it to. Basically, if you know how much air your engine pulls at a certain RPM, then you can size your pump to give the desired boost at that flow rate.
Yeah, vane type superchargers were a popular thing for many years. If I remember right Jenson was the most popular. Think they only fell from favor because of the unavoidable maintenance issues with the vanes. You'll definitely need bearings on both sides of the case for that kind of load, though.
If your inlet and outlet are both on top of the housing then the rotor should also be above the centreline of the housing so that the air can travel around the rotor and the most work can be extracted. If like your build the rotor is below the centreline the air basically short circuits and travels above the rotor instead of around it.
Try this Johnny. On the intake side, and on the cover plate, machine a channel from the high pressure side to the center of the white plastic rotor. Inside the rotor, machine a channel that gets fed high pressure air from the intake to the back of the vanes to help push them outwards. That way even if the first or second vane dont seal properly, pressure differential around the circumference will push the other vanes outwards, as their outside is receiving less pressure then the inside of the rotor. That way you wont need springs but they will still get pushed out. This also means that at low loads, the friction is reduced due to the nearly equal pressure at the back and front of the vanes but as load increases, the air pressure pushes them harder against the outside helping them seal. You have also put the hole for the shaft at the wrong spot, it should be at the top with the rotor blocking air flow from high to low, only allowing the vanes to act under air pressure. The way it is now, the air can only act across the 1-2 cm at the top, which is also why its stalling as your air pressure is pushing a single vane down, allowing air to pass straight through.
Hey. Love your work and projects.. but i think that rotor offset needs to be just opposite. That way expanding air pushes vane. Its possible doing that now but very short duration ( just that short inlet outlet period.)
If you just using it as a vane rotor no need to offset the vanes. Centered up is fine. Prolly get a lot more rpms as the air is not trying to compress. If you want to make super charger. You will want it to compress air. Offset towards outlet so it takes big volume of air and compresses it then dumps into outlet.
grate piece and work, but you should put the inlet in the narrow part and displace it in the direction of rotation that you want to turn, and the outlet in the with part it woud have more torque and be more efficient.
now do one without the air being forced to take anywhere from a 90 to a 135 degree turn on 2 occasions on its journey through the pump. You can drastically reduce the total exposed port area (and thus the amount of time the rotor spends with length unsupported by the inner face) AND reduce the angle of directional change required just by making the ports perpendicular to the inner face. You can also manufacture the rotors out of PTFE to reduce friction further.
Excellent video!!! I'm not sure WHICH PART of your videos I love BEST!?!? The actual MAKING of the things,the INSTALLING of the things,or when it's all done and You RUN IT in things!?!? Lol. Always waiting for your NEXT video JohnnyQ90!!! ;-)
That is the principle how servo pumps work. They have thicker core, and are all metall, with 5-7 metal plates sliding in and out. Also, another place this is used is older car air horns, from 60s, 70s, 80s. They have pertinex/pertinax plates spining around. One major thing with these pumps is, they like a bit of lubricity, better sealing, less friction.
i was waiting for a positive displacement engine for a long time. now that you have the tools, try building an engine that only passes air when it rotates (as in, a true positive displacement engine with no leaks).
I used and worked air powered devices. The intake should be closed and outtake as big as the air in divided the air out in cubic centimeters before it exist port. Usually 8 times as big. The intake to the exhaust should about 160 degrees and exhaust port should be about 170 degrees that way the turban will close with exhaust open. I had a 1/2 ratchet that turned 120,000 free.
That is great ! in order to get more efficiency you should try adjusting the tolerances : the gap between the valve and the motor body seems to be big and the pressure drops because the air can go from the income hole to the outcome hole easily. But that just a prototype so this is really great and I wouldn't be able to make this myself !
It would also probably help if you changed the orientation of your ports to be more perpendicular to the vanes at the top of their stroke. Currently the fluid has to fight the vanes for space as they come up, creating friction. You're also creating unnecessary loss in the vacuum that forms behind the vanes when the pump/air motor is sealed. Try drilling though the vanes almost vertically if possible to the "rear" side of desired rotation or shaping them to be trapezoidal. This is how hydraulic vane pumps are built. Overall, very impressive design and machining capabilities though. Love your videos and format.
Another way to get rid of the springs is to blead air/oil from the high pressure side to the inside face of the vanes. This will blow them out. I didn't see any secondary finishing of the housing, you'll be able to reduce wear a lot if you finish sand all the wear surfaces. (SWAG, 600 grit with some machining marks still showing to hold oil) Another improvement would be to switch from full-round blade tips to a circular section with a larger radius. This will increase the force that the oil film on the blade tip can support. Matching the width of the rotor to the housing is important for efficiency. I think the easiest way to do this is to assemble the rotor, vanes, and housing then sand the whole assembly to the same height. If you're melting the blade tips, I'd get some bearing-grade Torlon. It has a far higher melting point than Delrin and bit better hot strength than PEEK.
Fyi, there are also en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid-ring_pump liquid ring vane pumps. The will have a minimum operating speed before the liquid ring can support the vacuum/pressure, but it's a simple and low-wear design.
im getting some vibes for either the V4 or I2 with the size of it, and maybe future iterations could have aluminum vanes with a stainless steel housing, because those vanes are going to melt eventually lmao
Nice build, only one mistake :your shaft is offset to the wrong side, the place on the bottom should be the biggest so that the volume decreases again at the exhaust, this way you will be able to use it as a pump as well
Wow, those Helical and Harvey end mills are doing you and your machine a grave disservice. Get a Kennametal rep to visit and end the chatter, vibration and harmonics. Love your channel btw.
Maybe I don't understand how it works, but it seems like the inlet and outlet design are flawed. The air flow would have to make a nearly 180 degrees turn coming out of the inlet. This sort of reverse-flow design on internal combustion engines has been abandoned for many decades now, for a good reason.
