Take the broken old motor, core the old shaft out, and put a new, BIGGER, one in. The motor is fine, it's the junk shaft that broke. No reason to throw it away when you have a lathe + CNC setup.
yes, please do this. most motors of this size actually have a decent sized shaft inside the motor that is then necked down to a smaller size for the pinion. it would also be interesting if you could heat treat the new shaft for strength
That shaft is probably pressed into a neodynium magnet, so if he can get it out without breaking the magnet... It would be better to use an external starter unit. Have a hand held motor and battery unit with an output shaft that interfaces with a drive on the crank or flywheel. HPI Shaft start style (lots of racing cars use this style of starter too). This would provide a large weight reduction to the car as well.
Maybe those rods are the chinesium that everyone is talking about. Melting point is only 480C so it has something more than just some aluminum into it.
To bend thin walled small dia tubing, I fill it with tin, then form it as needed like I would form a rod and finally melt out the tin again. Works well with tin solder
Just found your channel yesterday. I'm not an RC guy at all, but I am fascinated with mechanical things since I was a kid in the 1970's-80's and worked as a machinist for a short time making parts for agricultural equipment. Ever since then I've had an interest in machining, and the equipment you are using is really interesting to me as well. I dig seeing people doing the things that they love, so you're bringing a lot to the platform for me to enjoy, and probably learn a few things along the way. Thanks for that and keep it up! New subscriber.
Just wanted to point out, it doesn't help the content creators at all, if everybody would blindly hit the like button of all their videos. Watch the video, then like it or dislike it so the creator knows in which direction her/his videos will have to go.
Love the attention to detail , cleaning the welds and rounding stuff off doesnt take much longer but results are 400% better . Love watching your work , propper tradie right there
1:58 there's a trick used in musical instrument making, specially brass instruments, to bend the pipes: they fill the pipe with water and soap, and then freeze it, or some kind of hot wax that then solidifies. The rigitdity of the ice prevents the pipe from beeing kinked, and the bubbles from the foam give it some allowance to move. Check here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uIqDhO1iddo.html (4:56). In that example they use some sort of soft metal. Here (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_eoGFpAiaoc.html) they do it with some sort of pitch/hot wax.
Brushless is far easier, faster, and so many other advantages, but you can’t beat that sound and smell!!!!!! When I have a bad day with nitro trucks I always want to throw in the towel and go brushless, just feels more real with a proper engine
Great vidéo again!! The assembly of both parts is done by soldering, not welding though (during welding, both parts to be assembled metals are also melted, not during soldering). Great engineering and video editing, thanks for sharing!!
In a future upload: " I noticed the engine didn't have much power at higher rpm...so anyway I build VTEC for it lmao. Smol engine go BAAAAAAAAAAAHH " LOVE THIS PROJECT DUDE!!!
I assume he does this full time... The amount of time you need to do these kind of projects with such high quality is insane. I think about it all the time when I record my projects. This kind of "RU-vidrs" work A LOT 💪
@@EliteWorm That would make sense too. Most RU-vidrs can provide a living from making videos when they pass 400-500K subscribers, Johnny has 1 million which should be sufficient to provide a living :) Although, definitely an engineering background cause his skills is not something you just find in the back of your pocket ;)
@@sebbelito2975 Engineering background not necessarily (but likely). He definitely has some kind of background working in or around machining if nothing else.
Hey Johnny! When this amazing build is all done i hope you consider doing a crazy RC boat build! Maybe with that little wankle! Keep up the great work!
Brass instruments are shaped with thin walled tubing filled with ice. They actually fill the tubes with water. Freeze them. Then do the bends to make sure the tubes don't collapse. Worth a try if you need to do that again.
Hey Johnny, I don't know if you are going to read this but you should try to do a intake mani as old bmw ohc engines had in the 80s. It's some kind of equal lenght tubes so the air to each cyl runs the almost same distance from the throttle body . Cheers.
4:11 Video idea: Make tools that are more comfortable, with more clearance for your fingers. Just a thought. I like everything you film, so I'd like this as well. 😁
I thought about the amount of overhung load on that motor shaft when you made the pully. Also, you can get solder for aluminum on amazon. I have used it many times when I don't want to tig weld something. If everything is super clean it works well.
Thoughts on the intake.. 1.Three 90 degree bends are less then optimal for feeding the cylinders. 2.The air will need to make an 180 degree bend feed the cylinder below the carb... 3. The decreased air velocity will reduce engine power. I would recommend looking at how v8 plenums as an example.
I love that Pocket CNC, but what's with the chatter? It definitely seems accurate enough to get better finishing results. I use those aluminum sticks often and they work great. As I'm sure you noticed, you've gotta get the base material quite hot. It's more of a soldering/brazing technique, letting the base material melt the rod rather than the torch. Using a torch with a fine tip would be much more beneficial.
For bending pipe like that I would recommend a low melting temp metal like say gallium or lead and fill the pipe with it then bend it, it will kink way less and you can melt the core out afterwards
Having seen hurco tool station cncs and older bridge port interact 2s, this pocket nc makes me happy. Seems a great bit of kit. Needs to be called the k9 intake as looks like one.
Johnny Q whenever you made that new intake manifold it looked like a supercharger inlet on my man he should so make like a supercharger that sits on top of the motor either than that one that you attempted to make a long time ago when man that be so cool on that v4 engine I really hope you take this into consideration and use it for a future project
John, seem like you need a little more torque on that starter motor. My suggestion if you chose to accept it is to use some pinion gear with another spur to get a higher mechanical advantage. Since your using a brushless, you have the speed and you know that in-runners have more speed than torque. You can switch to an out-runner which have more torque than speed but only will know if that would work in this application. Thanks my Two Cents. Great video and thumbs up. Keep safe - from Brooklyn NY.
Still going to be getting uneven flow, a crossflow dual-carb setup would be cool. Basically the same as what you've got, but with another carbointed opposite the one you have now.
William Apodaca yes, but that would require a 180 degrees turn in the back carburettor's air inlet tube, which is a problem for two reasons: -he is unable to make such a tube -it would mean that the cack carburettor would get less air, so it would still be uneven A a flow disturber (like a steel grid) put into the start of the manifold would be way easier to implement, and would be much more effective.
All this stuff is cool. Really cool. But you need to look into weight management. There are some really good (vented and cross drilled) sets already on the market. For much larger vehicles. Like the REVO. I can lock up all 4 tires at about 30 mph.
I highly doubt the rear cylinders barely breathed. The most likely chance is if 2 cylinders had an intake stroke at the same time, but if you were worried about it, all you would have to do is make sure air is coming from top, not front. The only thing changed with the manifold is the resonance (due to different length runners). Lovely build non-the-less! 😀
When we hand bend boiler tubes at work we pack them full of sand and seal off the ends (not air tight but tight enough that too much sand can’t fall out) maybe it would work for these little guys.
You my Friend always amaze me n give me inspiration for what we can do n make for RC Everything. 👌😎 God Bless n Godspeed to you buddy. Stay safe n yr loved one's RC4LIFE 👍👍😎😀💙
This alumnium part actually turned great !!! For the starter motor you need a higher torque motor but it will probaly have a bigger diameter. When it comes to BLDC motor diamerter is often linked to torque and lenght to RPM. Find a low KV rated motor. Keep up with the great work man
castle creations has some pretty powerful 1/16th scale motors. I've never seen a brushless motor shear a driveshaft before...stranger things. The VXL motor is a pretty high rpm low torque motor, if you need more torque try either a 4/6 pole brushless motor or a 100t brushed motor, whatever tickles your fancy :)
If those are the stuff that is sold with "technoweld" and other brands, you should be heating the pieces so that the flame doesn't melt the rod, but the heat from the welded pieces is. Melt the rod on top and scrape the pieces to be joined through the melted rod with stainless steel spike. You can feel how the base metal melts and mixes with the rod material (it isn't aluminum, but some kind of handy alloy). You can then add more rod material with direct heat into the seam if you need to.
Next time you go to braze with those rods make sure you’re allowing the heat in the part to melt them, not the torch. If the part is what’s melting then you’ll get nice beads that flow. Molten metal follows heat which is what gives those nice concave fillets of metal when pipe soldering.
It would probably be beneficial to use a very small dremel tip to "port" the interior edges of the manifold/plenem. Reducing the sharp corners that the air has to flow around helps improve performance quite a bit.
i feel like in this case porting would be a pretty big effort for very little gain. assuming the ports on the manifold are slightly smaller than on the heads you'd get a bit more air in but I doubt in its current state it'd be worth it.
Johhny love the channel mate, such skill on such a minute level, ive been following this build for a while now and cant wait to see the finished product. I've zero CNC experience but might I reccomend a mini rothenberger oxy acetylene torch for brazing the little parts i think it would help you concentrate the heat !!
