Making a Reserve Air Tank From a Dead Compressor 

Not like it matters…handle in line, it’s open, handle cross the line, it’s closed. Not all that technical.

Same here. Not the exact same brand but the exact same design. The motor actually looked like an angle grinder or a router motor. Very high rpm, huge transmission.

I also would like to be able to move this tank around with a full charge of air. Can't do that with just a tee connection.

Not true. If you tee an additional tank into your system you're still adding that additional volume of air at your set pressure. When your compressor runs anything after your first regulator will build to your set pressure weather you have an in and an out or just tee it in. It works well with something that requires a high cfm like a blast cabinet because you have that additional volume of air pressurized. It's essentially no different either way. What he did just works best if you plan on making it mobile. I personally have my aux tank in the attic of my garage out of the way and running a designated in and out line would just be a waste of pipe.

@@jabber12121 If I read your comments correctly, the pressure with a Tee is the same in both tanks and yes there will be some useful air released from the aux tank but not nearly as much if there are separate inlet and outlet ports. In that setup, like I said above ALL air must go through the aux tank, whereas in the Tee setup, some air is blown trough the Tee and not through the aux tank.

@@scarpia519 That's not true though. Look at it this way, air moves from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure until the pressure is equalized. Say you pull the trigger on your blasting gun, that creates a low pressure environment at that point. Because of this, all air in the system (assuming it's all pressurized the same) will flow to that point equally. It wouldn't affect your air production or max pressure from the compressor itself obviously but an auxiliary tank would most definitely function the same if tee'd in.

Instead of the plug why not put another quick connect so you can run 2 air hoses

Yes it would work. Just make sure the motor doesn't get too hot. It shouldn't if it's a decent compressor. Also you would be saving some wear and tear on your motor. Most of the wear comes from the compressor turning on, not really while it's running.

All you need is one run from the input of the second tank to the first tank. You have to connect it before the regulator control on the first tank. That's the key, you have to make the connection before that to get the most use out of it. In other words the air in both tanks needs to be free to flow between the two tanks before the pressure controls.

Depending on where you are, your toilet water threads might be different from mine There's NA, SA, africa+europe, india, and SEA as regions with different threads Russia might be going back to their own old standard due to.... Reasons.... As well

American standard 7/8 ballcock thread on all toilets here…idk if anything else is threaded that size, but any and all supply lines need to be whatever size is on your valve (probably 1/4” compression) x 7/8 ballcock. Yes that’s what it’s called. Find the hone depot employee who knows nothing ask for it by name…. I need a hose to hook onto my ballcock, can you help me? Indeed all these threads you mention are common and do not interchange. I worked at hardware store in Murphy younger days to and it’s shocking how many people have no idea… and dont forget your SAE bolt fine and course threads as well as metric bolt fine and course. All of the above can be differentiated by sight and do not intermingle. I even had guys come in trying to piece together odd little projects and tell me they needed some nut thingies to go with screws like….”this” and they’d pull out a wood screw or a sheet metal screw. One guy got made and said I was stupid because I didn’t understand that he just needed the nuts for the size of screw he brought in and wouldn’t accept that there was no such thing as a wood screw threaded nut. Air fittings should be NPT (pipe thread) and compression fittings on copper tubing. Flare fittings are for gas but some older houses have them on ice maker water lines…and double flares for pressurized hydraulic tubing like on car brakes. They need special tool to flare the lines. No Teflon or pile dope on compression or flare fittings. Never. Ever. Never ever. The nut holds the flare tight against the fitting to seal it and anything in the threads can make them not all lay flat so the surfaces make the seal…sane with compression, the ferrule seals to the inside surface of the fitting and they’re held together by the nut. Teflon AND pipe dope on pipe threads, which are tapered and the thread dressings are just to get them to screw together without galling, they need to be cranked down good to get good seal on the threads. That’s all for thread talk today…join us next week for pvc threads…and don’t forget our end of season finale where we’ll discuss reverse threads, hose threads, and taps & dies.

​@@invictusbp1prop143 1/8npt and 1/8bsp makes me chuckle. 1 thread difference between the 2. In a pinch, you can interchange them once , as when they're removed the fittings will have a boogered thread. As long as it doesn't have to be messed with ,I've put a 1/8npt brass fitting into a 1/8bsp fitting. Sometimes you'll get lucky and a good tap and die sets has a 1/8npt and a bsp tap and die and you can clean either up to the threads you want. I wouldn't do it on the space shuttle but it's good for when you're in a pinch.

Yes, that would work, but I wanted to be able to use the tank in parallel with the main compressor. I connect the compressor hose to a T and then the transfer hose from the spare tank to the T. The output of the T goes to a high quality regulator. I removed the regulator on the main compressor so I get full pressure in the spare tank. Doing it this way I am able to remove the spare tank from the system at will and still have an operable system.

@@billyb351 Thank you for your reply. I see that your plan for the reserve tank goes beyond what is shown in the video. By adding additional components (T's and a new regulator). That would have made a good Part 2 video. Thanks again.

​@@billyb351 instead of the plug why not just put another quick connect so you can run 2 air hoses

@@johnambler6924 I could have definitely done that but I don't need a second hose right now (and I didn't want to burn another quick connect that I wouldn't use right away). If in the future I find a second hose would be useful I'll take out the plug and put another connector.

Its a good question and i heard different answers for that. Some people says, its actually better for the motor to run a bit longer than kicking in more often. The best solution for me (with the exact same setup in this video) to lower both value on the kick in/kick off pressure. But my case is probably special, because i need very low pressure (2 bars) as long as its possible. So i will reduce the kick in pressure from 6 down to 2.5 bars, and the kick off pressure from 8 down to 6Bar. In between this range the motor does not suffers and only runs just a bit longer than usual, yet kicks in way less

Possible, but the amount of work wont solve a damn thing, because you need ages to fill up a tank like that with a single fidge compressor. Yes it could help a little bit to the another compressor, especially in downtimes, but that's insignificant if you want continuous work.

I often leave my compressor filled up as well. I drain it when I know I won't be using it for a while. I've thought about the heating up part as well. I plan to stub out a second connection to my compressor which will go to the reserve tank. I'll only use the reserve tank when I could benefit from more air (i.e. framing nailer when I use it a whole lot in a short burst). I remember when building my shed having to wait for the compressor to get those last few nails in. It was always at the most inconvenient time like when I'm trying to secure a piece of roof sheathing lol. The wire wheel on the die grinder drains the tank really fast too. I'm always waiting. I've also heard that start stop cycles put wear on the motor and pump so a longer run but less start stop cycles puts somewhat less wear on the motor and pump. I'm not sure about that statement though. More heat might be worse, but then again, it draws a whole lot of power to start that motor up and get the pump going, so I really am not sure. Thanks for watching and commenting! Looking forward to your next video.

@@billyb351 Well I know you are a smart guy but I threw in my 2 cents worth. You will enjoy your larger volume of air. I finally got a good size compressor with more than 30 gal. All the Best Bill

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Yes, your compressor can be used to fill up the larger tank. You might actually save some wear on the motor doing that because it will run longer and cycle less. Startup is where most of the wear on a compressor motor comes from.

@@billyb351 wow didn't expect that is so easy than i thought. by the way, is it safe? I'm very keen to upgrade my compressor. the motor is a lot faster than larger compressor motor... (came with 1250w) About the wear, I might let the filled air in the tank. Only once a week will throw all the air out for maintenance. I guess it will save a lot of energy and wear. Right?

@@haizarahmad The only thing you have to worry about is heat. The longer a motor runs, the more heat it makes, however the motor should be able to cool itself. Think about it though... if you're heavily using the compressor, the motor is running 100% of the time as it tries to keep up. This is no different. There are fins and a fan in there. I've been running this setup for a year now and I haven't had any problems at all. You will benefit from the larger air volume for sure. As long as the external tank is sound and you don't exceed the maximum pressure rating of the external tank, it's safe. It's best when the external tank is the same rating or higher rated than the compressor.

@@billyb351 probably used to spray a car. I think the motor will run often if i keep using stocked 8 gallon tank. And im sure it generate more heat from that, mine was silence motor. Thinks the 26 gallon compressor here using belt motor and it surely heat resist as the motor not attached to the tank. What do you think... should i just upgrade to belt motor compressor?

@@haizarahmad I think you could make the reserve tank and see how it does. You can always upgrade the compressor after that. You could use the reserve tank with the new compressor as well for even more capacity. The reserve tank in this video is 26 gallons, and my compressor also has a 26 gallon tank so I have 52 gallons of air available.

If you mean the spring loaded safety valve, that was already part of the regulator assembly. You can see it at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lbC2RyGIrV4.html (4:28) in the video. There is a shutoff valve on the inlet, and the quick disconnect on the outlet of the regulator. Those are really the only 3 things that are needed.

You could use it as a portable air tank with the ball valve.

Dude I just watched, and thought the same thing, dude has more fittings than a pipe i had in the 70s at least 8 people were able to smoke