Hey Vince, apologies, you’ve probably been asked this at some point before. Have you ever thought of publishing a painting book? Maybe via KS or something. Would be nice to have your assorted techniques gathered together in one place. As much as I enjoy watching tutorials I’m pretty old school and love a good book. You’d have a ton of material and experience to draw from!
I'm sure you're aware of the toxicity of UV Resin, but for anyone else watching this: NEVER TOUCH UV RESIN WITH BARE SKIN UV resin will cause chemical burns while uncured. If contact occurs, clean the area thoroughly with alcohol. A heavy-duty household cleaning product can be substituted if none is available. Rinse with soap and water after. Otherwise, another great video, Vince! I love the final product!
Doesn't alcohol dilute resin and make it more skin permeable? I was told you specifically *don't* want to wash UV resin off with alcohol. Soap and water is meant to be better. Granted this advice was for 3D printer resin but I assume it's similar stuff chemically.
@@hobomasterxxx Yeah in general, common standard practice / advice for removing hazardous materials from skin is to use large volumes of cold water. Throwing more chemicals into the mix (like alcohol) is rarely a good idea unless you know exactly what youre doing.
Great save on the water. Would love to see one on doing water of different levels of disturbance: still, small ripples, babbling, full rapids/waves. Mostly because I've been scared to do any resin poor on bases for fear of messing it up and it just looking dumb. Could do as part of display board for more space maybe and to hit em all easily. As always appreciate the time and effort to share your knowledge and great sound at the beginning too!
Jeeeez Vince, I'm literally wincing everytime you touch that uncured resin with your finger! I'm sure there's already plenty of comments as to why...great base, but please use the fingers that're in the glove next time 😁
EZPZ. Paint the base Goblin Green, cover the base in PVA glue, sprinkle thoroughly with a mix of dried oregano, basil and thyme, then give it 10 minutes in a preheated hot-air oven at 150 deg celsius. Boom, you now have a fragrant but ruined base and need to follow Vince's advice instead of this one.
Thanks for the forest base update! Perfect timing as well - I'm in the process of finally getting around to a figure from my childhood, a Wood Elf Forest Dragon. You mention that this is a base for an important figure, and I was wondering how much thought you put into figure integration and pinning when building the base. With my project, because it's a massive metal monstrosity, I worry about building the best forest base I can, only to fail at pinning at the final hurdle! Is there any advice you can give on how you would tackle something similar with the techniques you demonstrated here? Thanks again for all of the content. Very much appreciated!!
Hey, Vince. With World Eaters coming up, would you possibly be able to make a video exploring brass? I feel like there's a lot of confusion between brass, copper, and bronze.
Between you and Jeremy from Black Magic Craft, if I have learned anything for resin it is test, test, TEST, and be emotionally ready because you will still mess it up.
Hi Vince, not really related to this video specifically but I just wanted to post my first ever RU-vid comment to say thank you for the incredible work you do on this channel. Painting used to be a part of the hobby which I found pretty mystical and, frankly, a real chore. I've been in the hobby for almost 20 years and had never completely painted an army but, starting just before lockdown, I have now painted several to a standard which I would never have dreamed I could manage and its now one of my favorite things to do (AoS or otherwise). You can almost single handedly take credit for that because I found your videos both inspiring and accessible. You are a truly wonderful teacher. Thanks for all your hard work!
A little alternate tip, if you don´t want to use pine bark mulch and resin stones. In Painting Buddha painting alchemy dvds, they use this recipe to make stones/slate You take some Milliput (standard or fine white), some FIMO modelling clays and some brown stuff. Then roll out the miliput,fimo and brown stuff into thin thin layers. (in painting acadamy they do this by putting it inside some baking paper and use a spraycan to roll it into layers.) Once you have 10 or 20 pieces of layers of the different material, put them on top of one another like a sandwich. A little like this: One layer of miliput, then fimo ,another layer of miliput, then some brown stuff and then another miliput etc etc. Do so loosely do not press down hard on it, so it becomes airtight. Dap on it loosely and allow the layers to work together. Once you have the right height for your stone (if you haven´t made enough layers just break your "sandwich" in half and put the two half's on top of one another) Put it in the oven and bake it at either 250 degrees fahrenheit or 120 degrees Celsius for 21 to 23 minuets. You might want to get a smaller oven for this since 1: When it bakes, it reeks of burnt rubber 2 Its probably not too healthy to make your food, in the same oven you are make this kind of stuff in. Also bake it in a well ventilated area, just to be on the safe side. Once its done take it out and use a pair of pliers to break it apart and use some sculpting tools (preferably one with large flat surface on it) to shape it into the kind of rock you want. You will notice that in most cases, the places where you put the fimo will be the places it breaks off most easily. Also if you want it to look like slate avoid the soft round edges. I have used it before and it produces some nice result and you will have a lot of smaller pieces that can be used as smaller rocks.
maybe you're doing this already (this video was 11 months ago), but you seem to be missing the "grand reveal" ala Squidmar. I highly recommend adding a segment to your videos for it, if you haven't already. We want to see the pretty thing all nicely lit and rotating!
The paste you use to make the movement in the water - I bought the same thing and mine is a thinner mixture. It doesn’t build up as much as yours does. Just did one layer of it but going to do a second after it dries fully.
Haven't seen that moss technique before, gotta try that out. Good save on the resin as well, the final result looks great! Do I sense a Lady of Vines painting video incoming? Definitely looking forward to seeing painting wood on this channel - the technique I used is largely based on past Hobby Cheating videos, and I'm interested in seeing how that has evolved.
Hello, Vince... I've never felt the need to comment on anyone else's channel before, so this is a first for me.. I just have to say a huge "Thank You" for the outstanding content of all your painting/modelling type videos.. I've been painting and converting figures for my own pleasure for many years, although mainly historical but colour theory holds good whatever the subject.. You are the only RU-vidr I've watched who can explain the theory of all things painting and colour, plus show practical demonstration of showcase/competition work without sounding condescending and self important. So many others seem either so full of pretentious B.S that it's like listening to a wine tasting expert, or else so loud and gimmicky that the value is lost...The quality of your painting and your teaching style is superb, sir!... One point I noted on an earlier basing video, you were using water to lubricate "Greenstuff" two part putty. Have you tried using a very tiny amount of vaseline or enamel thinner to lubricate it?.. So much easier with no loss of adhesion and can be worked to a glass smooth finish so no need for sanding, which it doesn't react well to... Thanks again for such top quality output. An inspiration to me and so easy to watch.
Richard, thank you! That all means a great deal to me and I really apprecaite it. As to the water vs. vaseline/other lubricants for green stuff, yep, i've tried other items and just didn't like it. The water is a little finicky in the moment, but just makes it easier for me in the long run.
that's awesome! Only thing I'd add, just like paint recipes, write down (aprox) what you do for your basing, if you're going to do an army worth. Great job on the water effects - you just have to go for it with them, I find. And then when/if it doesn't work, learn - videos like this are really encouraging because everyone has issues and getting more ideas of how to work with them, inspires creativity!
Rather than buying UV-set resin in small quantities from a hobby company, consider buying UV-set resin by the quart from companies that sell it for use in 3D printing. $30-ish/kg is a much better deal. (And it's available in a rainbow of colors, including clear.)
In my head i have the idea that my figure step from for Example Wood/Forest into a desert and try to show it on a 40mm Base... do you have an idea how to implement it. Or my Plaque walk on green nature and the steps behind are muddy, dry dark and dead... will be a pleasure if you use the idea for an Vid. :)
You can really just combine the two basing types with a little area of overlap in the middle, but you want it on a slight angle from the prime viewing angle. :)
Nice base, but there is to much going on.. to many different "vegetations" I would say. The moosy growths or how you called them messed the base up for my personal taste,s ame like this green water.. looks more like acid dirty wather.. after you painted them in this unnatural color it turned my face into a sadface. anyway good job and well done.
Ive never worked or played with UV resin, will it remain perpetually liquid if its never exposed to UV light? Also, will sunlight cure it as fast as the light?
Bro like I literally have all those materials at hand same branding and everything. How crazy is that? Also great timing for forest bases. I was looking your old hobby cheating video like yesterday
I'm cool with diff size rocks. But if you go there, I gotta call in the sedimentologists and the hydrologists to see if you got a river rock configuration right :P
beautiful base, water effects are a bit too opaque for my taste, looks more like a toxic spill. Also I have started to notice, whenever I use water effects, that dust covers them and they lose their glossiness, thus you cant even tell they are there any more. My solution is to paint the effects.
Love all your stuff, I can never go back and agree with a black rim tho unless it's a display diorama or bust, for wargaming it's always a bad idea as it contrasts heavily with what's on top as well as the table. Theoretically the best is to take the general color of what's on top the base and make the rim one shade darker. GW does this with their marketing art on boxes, for example the start collecting boxes. The science is there, but at the same time using a black rim is also a stylistic choice, even if technically a bad one, it's more important to factor in preference than science. I mean look at goblin green, it looks terrible but in a way it's also super nostalgic, it's of a style long gone that most people nowadays wouldn't like but if you were in the hobby from a certain time period it's a classic look.
Great tutorial Vince! I used a lot of it and added some leafs, which are made from real dried leafs. Those were stamped out with a greenstuff world leaf stamp. I collected them in autumn to add some brownish orange and yellow. The resin pour was substituted by water gel mixed with some contrast paint. So happy with my base for Alarielle now :)
i'm painting most boardgame miniatures, and the mini is always on the base, do you got some tricks to remove miniatures from base? i try some with frosting it, if its glue to the base. but it does not always work. its hard to paint the base with a big fat mini on it ;)
So one problem with this: the base looks great.... but where are you putting a figure on top of it? I always end up thinking "where is the figure going to be put on here?" Love the save with the water pour there! Are "rills" the real word for the ripples on a stream though? I hadn't heard it before you said it - you very well could be right!
That depends on the base. I've bought some that seem to have zero consideration for fitting a model on them, unfortunately. When designing one yourself, it would be nice to know thought process for incorporating a model.
I sometimes get glossy patches when using lots of thinned super glue like this. But then sometimes PVA glue gives me little white spots. Of course it’s only an issue if I’m adding material after already painting (eg adding grass). Tough to find a glue that doesn’t cause any problems!
This is extremely amazing and looks so relaxing! Never tried resin, but I’m planing a nostalgic ghibli-inspired Necron army and will give this a try. Thanks a lot Vince, your technically the Brockhaus of Mini-painting :)
Looks extremely good and I really like that you 'made a mistake and fixed it'. If you have a dynamic hero pose, do you build the base from scratch around that pose or do you build the base and then adjust the top to fit with the miniature? Thanks, Chris
Great base! I acknowledge this is a bit off topic, but it is in tune with this week's GW releases/leaks. I am intending to build a 40k World Eaters army. What do you think would be a good theme for bases for this army? The models innately have a lot of red, so i thought maybe a forest or frost look would work. Thanks for the help!
I always enjoy these tutorials, but I can't help but be disappointed when you go to all the trouble to make such a lovely video and then don't have a 360 or shot of the final product at the end!
I never realized that Vince had the art for the Magic card Restoration angel in the background til now. That is super cool! Excellent choice from the Technomancer himself
To me this base gives off more like a verdant hills / mountain slope kind of vibe. I'm missing the presence of those larger pieces of wood you mentioned to really get the feeling of being in amongst trees. The end result looks fantastic though
I'm happy to see you re-doing something like this. Any tips on how to add a more dark/desolate atmosphere to the forest base with the ascribed techniques?
I also always get inspired by the Creative Cuts channel, where we tend to get larger dioramas with a great deal of chill and exploration-just the next thing over from this. Today I watched both of you, it's like a relaxed christmas of scenery secrets! And, as others have also said-thanks so much for keeping that “save” in the video. We all need reinforcement that these oopses are recoverable, I think!
Great video at a great time. I’m about to start a skaven army leaning into the echoes of doom theme of invading a sylvaneth glade. Now I just have to decide which elements of this to take and fit onto the 25mm bases of 100 clan rats!
