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My ninth day in Kerala, India began at Kuttichira Biriyani Centre in the city of Kozhikode, also known as Calicut. Calicut is the food capital of Kerala. It’s in the northern part of Kerala, which is famous for its biryani.
I met Shabeer from Travel Explore Channel headed inside the kitchen. Inside, there were guys cutting tomatoes and onions, blending chilies, adding coriander and ginger, frying fish and chicken. They were making both Thelassery biryani and Calicut biryani.
For the Calicut biryani, they added a mountain of onions and tomatoes, garlic, ginger, and chilies. That would make one layer of the biryani. Then, they’d add crispy onions, coriander, and cashews as another layer. Then, the next layer is rice, chicken, beef, and fish. The rice was short-grain rice, unlike the long-grain rice in Hyderabad.
I watched them add onions, tomatoes, garlic, ginger, coriander leaves, curry leaves, chilies, and salt to make the biryani masala. I got a chance to try it. It was full of flavor and was super spicy with the chilies. I could taste the curry leaves and coriander, the burst of tomatoes and onions, and more.
I watched them finish up and seal the pots. Then, I headed back outside. I quickly visited Calicut Beach and its boardwalk before taking a one-minute tuk-tuk, or auto, ride to the Bombay Hotel. I got some carrot cake, banana fry, bonda, and much more!
The banana fry was a very sweet and tasty fried plantain with batter on the outside. I also loved the dense carrot cake, which was like pure carrots. The sugeen was super sweet, with a fried outside and a grainy interior. The bonda (fried mashed potatoes with chilies, onions, and sesame seeds) was softer and had a light fry on the outside.
Next, I moved on to the chatti pathiri, which is a sweet and fluffy layered cake made of rice flour, eggs, cashews, and raisins. I also tried a sweet egg dish called muttamala, which is made of egg yolks and egg whites in the shape of a heart. The stringy egg almost looked like thin pasta and the egg whites were smooth and gelatinous, almost like flan.
Then, I went into the kitchen to see how they make dancing chai, which has a layer of chai on the bottom, frothy milk in the middle, and foam on top. It looked like a café con leche and was my favorite part of the meal, which came to 186 rupees/$2.45 USD.
From there, we left the Bombay Hotel took an auto ride to the 14th-century Mishkal Mosque. Unlike other mosques I’d visited, it didn’t have a minaret or a dome. It’s the place to visit if you’re looking for historical attractions.
Before going inside, I took off my shoes and socks and washed my feet. We visited the first level and saw an amazing table and the beautiful main level. It was the first medieval mosque I’d ever been to and is the only one surviving in Kerala.
Then, we hopped back in the auto and arrived back to the biryani center. I got half-portions of the beef (buffalo) and chicken Calicut biryanis. They came with mint-coconut chutney and curd. It was amazing and spicy with the curd. The mint-coconut chutney was super spicy!
The beef was so tender and was practically falling apart! This was the best biryani I’d ever had in my life. The chutney gave it such a nice tang. It was similar to some Chinese fried rice dishes I’d had. The chicken was so buttery and tender and they were all inexpensive.
I hope you loved coming with me to try Malabar biryani in Kerala, India!
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About Me:
My name is David Hoffmann. For the last 12 years, I have been traveling around the world in search of unique culture, food, and history! Since starting David’s Been Here in 2008, I have traveled to over 1,100 destinations in 77 countries, which I welcome you to check out on my RU-vid channel, travel blog, and social media sites.
I focus a great deal on food and historical sites, as you probably have seen! I love to experience the different flavors that each destination has to offer, from casual street food to gourmet restaurant dining. I’m also passionate about learning about the local history and culture.
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11 май 2020
