Making the Cill And Head On a Sash Window Part 2 - Mighton Series

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Drawings are now available direct from my website avoiding Etsy fees - Window Model and Cross Section Drawings - bradshawjoiner...
This video is Part 2 of the Detailed Mighton Sash window series, in which I take you through the entire process of making a Sliding box sash window from raw timber to Installation. In the is episode we look at machining operations for the Head lining and the cill.
Link to Part 1 where I talk through the drawing and 3d model - • Sliding Sash Window Te...
Link to Mighton Products website for all your top quality sash window product needs - www.mightonpro...
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#Joinery #Woodworking #SashWindow

Опубликовано:

12 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 39

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1234343315/bradshaw-joinery-sash-window-sketch-up Visit my Etsy store for the Working Sketchup model and cross section drawings of this window.

@88flik88 8 месяцев назад

Little tip for you, have the step in the cill further back and rebate the bottom of the sash over it, i always think it wouldn’t take much for someone with a crow bar to get all the way under the sash and pop the fasteners doing it your way, will help with part Q compliance on building regs

@raydriver7300 Год назад

That was brilliant, Oliver. Such clear explanations and demonstrations by the master. I wondered where you’d gone 🌞

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

Thankyou Ray! :) Good to hear from you too

@rick91443 Год назад

Great stuff. I never have seen these styles of windows here in France; saw them when living in the states on the east coast...cheers..rr Normandy, Fra.

@zeuszuki6698 Год назад

Love your work and enjoy the channel 😀 I wish I had all that awesome machinery at my disposal 😍 I am currently rebuilding a bay window fully as the whole thing is rotted out (12 windows incl lead lights, sills, the lot) and only have a table saw and hand tools but its going well. Your uploads help me hugely with strategy at each stage and provide great little construction tid bits. Thankyou for this invaluable content, very much appreciated 👍🍻

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

thankyou! Its great to hear success stories following any advice given or shared!! Keep up the good work

@Quaker521 Год назад

Impressive and skilful work as usual Ollie. Though I'll never build one I do find your videos interesting to watch and you do nicely explain the process. Thanks for the upload.

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

thankyou matey really appreciate it! :)

@chrisallen4328 Год назад

Good to see you back mate.

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

Thankyou Chris, I've been mega busy hopefully get a few videos out but I've a hectic summer ahead too haha

@mauserkk98 Год назад

Great start.

@bchdsailor Год назад

Always impressing work

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

thankyou!! :)

@Dazza19746 Год назад

Nice to see you back mate! Tossing up between the 100 mm rebate head or a dedicated cill head. I guess really I’d only be saving myself one operation ( making the step plumb on 9degres bevel) Think I’ll run with the rebate head for versatility 👍🏻

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

I would yeah. I dont really miss not having the cill head, although i would definitley get a spiral rebate block. with the square carbide knives. they cut so much better than the big long blades. www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/spiral-heads/100017/ Thats the dream!

@Dazza19746 Год назад

@@BradshawJoinery that’s actually perfect mate! I actually remember I needed about 115 on the splay of the lowest bevel ( it’s 33 mm sash stile out here for the most part and the cills are 165x65) and I wasn’t keen on readjusting to continue where a 100 mm would fall short This does 125 !! Next time I get a couple of decent jobs, I’m on it! Actually got an 80 mm one very similar apart from no ‘scorer’ for a clean rebate, brilliant for Template work but, I use it with a bearing for my horns. ( until I get the horn cutting head and work out what I’m going to put it into 😂 RAS would be perfect!! Just not sure it would spin fast enough on the rail arm spindle 🤔) Ps. I was talking ( nicely) about you to Mike Lewis, from Accoya. He was out on a trip 👍🏻

@marcmcgettigan3580 Год назад

great video 👍

@JmackL Год назад

Super stuff. Really admire your work. Any chance you would do something on your kitchen carcass method?

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

Thankyou, i may do in the future, but im not doing any of that work for a while now!

@JmackL Год назад

No prob. Would it be possible to get a sketch? I'd have no problem in paying you for your time. Thank you

@alexeynechaev266 10 месяцев назад

Tremendous value of the video for those looking to build windows. I am planning to build the whole-house package myself and one of the first questions - choice of wood. Stuck between African Sapele and Accoya/Kebony. How long did you use Accoya lumber, did it keep up with advertised rot- and mold-resistance?

@BradshawJoinery 10 месяцев назад

Just use accoya would be my advice. PU glue, stainless or brass (no mild steel) and anti stain paint.

@310strawberry Год назад

As ever really informative and so helpful. It would be great if you could list all the cutter blocks you use for each stage for us newbies!! Also what wood you are using… thanks again Mark

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

I will update the descriptions with this in time, thankyou!! As always there will be alternative tools/methods if you dont have a specific machine or tool.

@jedmc8419571 Год назад

Really enjoy your videos, great content and always interesting projects. Can I ask what the significance of your help for heroes wristband is? I'm a veteran 👍💪

@tammamakkari8046 Год назад

Great video and explanation. Thanks! Wouldn’t it be easier to have the bottom sash sitting on a flat part of the sill instead of having a 9deg slope? We normally see the slope on the external side of the sill ..

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

In a more modern design window i would always have the slope on anything that couold get wet, steeper the better, but i would cut the bottom of the sash off square. so it touches at the back and creates a gap at the front for the water to drip from.

@freebornjohn2687 Год назад

Great video. I'm making some Georgian casement windows and one of things I struggle with is the jointing and alignment of the glazing bars so they look straight and not up and down or side to side. Any tips or a video on how to get it right would be very much appreciated when you cover making the sashes.

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

When marking mortices flip the timber to its becking they are centre. The length when tenoning is important as the errors are multiplied so time needs spending here to make sure they are spot on. Other than that it's just alignment at glue up. A slightly larger mortice helps and can use a very fun wedge once they are aligned to lock it in place. Trim off after. I now groove half the tenon width out the bars on interlocking glazing bars and poke the tenon through the mortice so it can be glued to the other half of the opposing glazing bar locking them together if that makes sense...?

@freebornjohn2687 Год назад

@@BradshawJoinery Apart from the first sentence I understand your points. I was aware that some people slid one bar's tenon over the other - though I have never seen anybody actually do it. Before tenoning the bars I put the frame together with clamps and mark the tenons for the bars. I've also tried having the stiles next to each other and mark across them for the bars tenons and likewise for the rails. I'm careful but sometimes it comes out on the piss. Maybe I should like you say make the tenons slightly larger to allow for alignment. Thanks

@nigelknight1435 2 месяца назад

I have watched your video's and may have missed the traditional Wagtail, do you fit one?

@BradshawJoinery 2 месяца назад

Yes👍 it's in the long video of this whole build a few episodes before this

@holman26 Год назад

hope ur ok bud been a while

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

Thanks, yeah all good just mega busy.

@richardstevenson2727 Год назад

👍

@christiangastin4229 Год назад

Dear Sir I am very much interested to have a go on making my own colonial double hung sash windows , ( 6 ) straight out format and ( 3 ) bay windows also colonials styles i have some understanding with tools , I am now retired near ( 78 years old ) and feel that i could possibly achieve my goal . I was quoted near $ 70,000 to supply and install that lot , i have just purchased a planer / thicknesser and i do have a table saw , a router and cordless drill , and ready to start , are the plans printable being a digital download or do i need some program to access the details .....I plan to purchase the plans . Kind regards

@BradshawJoinery Год назад

HI, you are buying a 3d sketchup model (no use to you by the sounds of it) but i have recently added cross section drawings with dimensions. These are 1:1 scale on A4 so you can print out and measure off them. If you need any further measurments let me know and i will add them to the document and help where i can.