Good video, people need get a sense of humor. I love to laugh an learn. Saw one video where you was Sharpening chisels an the pad you used slipped an knocked your water off table, there was a few people to say the least "pissed off" that you allowed that to happen. Lol they forget we are all human not perfict an seeing your mistakes will help others. If they are such professionals then why are they watching any woodworking stuff on youtube, they should have their own channel. Keep it up man love your hatters an embrace your fans.
have you heard of anyone adding lemon extract to the wax for the scent? I have a jar of Clark's wax that has orange and lemon extracts; smells great! I wonder how much to add to wax/ oil mixture?
Awesome goo, I’ve just made a small batch 250g worth and as an analytical chemist I added a few drops of vanilla-scented oil (knowing this would not affect the composition of the ‘goo’). It worked great! Thanks for this, now I have a lovely smelling wood treatment that I used on some furniture and made it look and smell amazing 🤩 My new favourite!
quick question, if I use 250 grams beeswax, I would use 1L mineral oil? Slightly confused because he mentioned a 4:1 ratio, but used cups for the beeswax and used the liter for the mineral oil. A volume vs weight dilemma popped up for me. I use a weighing machine for everything to make life easy.
Mineral oil and beeswax are two things with no expiration dates. Plant based oils are the ones that go rancid. I like your tray setup there for large batch making, if that's all you're ever going to use it for. But an easier and less messy way, for people making smaller batches, would be a double boiler setup. Then you can make it right in the jars, no transferring, no cleanup. All it'll cost you is another minute of measuring and pouring for individual jars. I've used mineral oil and beeswax for wood, neatsfoot oil and beeswax for leather, camelia oil and beeswax for rope. It all works great. Pretty sure bees are just magic lol But consider your final application when making your recipe. 4:1 is a good starting point, but sometimes you may want harder or softer. For example, on soft leather I'd use a little less wax, so it's more flexible without cracking (not applicable here, but just to give an example) For knife handles and wooden utensils I throw in more wax, making a harder substance, but it's easy enough to just heat the surface of the jar with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften it up for application. Once it rehardens on the piece you have a good hard wax surface that can be buffed nicely, and will last longer through use and washing (but still, don't use hot water to wash, just warm water and soap, and of course nothing abrasive)
P. S. Thanks for the link to the beeswax pellets, that would've made my life sooo much simpler if I knew about that before! I've been working with 1oz bars of wax and a cheese grater lol
Came here to also suggest the making the goo right in the jars part. You can set up the jars with the oil and bees wax and make as little or as much as you like. You can even do different ratios in different jars.
Thanks for this! I made some up after your past video and did 4:1 beeswax to oil instead of the other way around. Doh! No worries warmed it back up and fixed the proportion and now my cutting boards look boss. :-)
I know this is a bit late in the reply, but I made a batch of this finish and put it on a box store butcher block top. Filled the flaws then sanded to 320 with your recommended Cubitron sandpaper. Came out butter smooth! This finish was simple to make and easy to apply. I'll do 3-4 coats before I buff this out. Thanks for the "JoKaMo" Goo recipe!
Great video. I was a beekeeper over 40 years ago and saved my wax. Now I’m making finish in every way possible, with different oils and carriers. I just finished a tea box in walnut and red oak and used a bees wax and mineral oil mixture. The first thing people comment on is the “ feel” of the box. Thanks ( but I don’t call it Goo!) it’s “ My secret homemade finish” keep the mystery.
Thanks for making this in-depth on how it's made, really helpful. I whipped some up after the cutting board video, but didn't put in enough oil and it turned out too hard. I was going to reheat and add more oil to make a better consistency, but after seeing this video, I may use the batch on my tools and iron tops. I hadn't thought of using it for that instead of Johnson's. - Chris
Made me up a batch of this last night. So easy to do. Already applied to a cutting board and planning on giving some to my sister to go along with the cutting boards I have given her.
This will surely be made next weekend. Thanks for the video Jonathan I just made a charcuterie board for a co-worker and I'm going to use this. Cutting boards are in the works also. Keep up the great work with all of the videos. God bless.
JAMCastillo1 it will have to be reapplied, depending on how many time it’s washed with soap and water, but it easy to accomplish, after an evening meal when it look like it’s drying out apply the mineral oil, in the morning apply the bees wax and rub it in. Maybe in another month reapply. Never put wooden cutting boards in the dishwasher
@@jaymiller286 I should have been more clear with my wording. As in storage, the mixture shouldn't go rancid? is what I intended to say Not sure if mixing the 2 allows them to go bad after an amount of time, or it just needs to be re-stirred as I would imagine there would probably be some separation
Could you put that pan in a Yoder Pellet Smoker so that the “goo” takes on some wood fired smell? Think the cutting board would smell awesome like that!
Mineral oil doesn't go bad.... that why it's the best oil to use. And yes, the FDA has them put an expiration date on the container, because 'forever' isn't a date.
Have just made my first batch and it came out perfectly. Thank you so much for sharing. For say a chopping board/charcuterie board, do you just do one coat, let it sit for ???? minutes, and then wipe off and buff? Or more coats etc? Thanks heaps
So to use a 4:1 ratio, beeswax to oil, how do you come up with 1/2 gal of oil to 2 cups of wax. Because you are mixing a fluid with a solid. They have 2 different measurements. I have a 12 fl. Oz. Bottle of mineral oil, how beeswax should I use. Love videos by the way.. purchased your stop block, which is awesome to use. Keep working wood. Bill K
perfect timing. just ordered mineral oil, used some wax harvested from my own bee hives and cooked 3 jars! so simple, so good. olive wood cutting board refurbished, walnut salad bowl spoon refurbished, whats next...
Nice video but I wonder why these videos never show the end product...for example when its cooled. Is it greasy, firm, how long does it take to dry. This video is rather nice and simple, but would've love to see it on wood.
I watched your other fav finish video and thought it was 4 parts bee's wax and one part mineral oil - this suggests the reverse.l.. Which is it? Also, if were to use on a maple workbench top, would the oil and or wax come off on the pieces being worked on?
Hey KM! I am about to finish a butcher block kitchen countertop and I'm considering making some goo for the job. I wanted to ask if you think it would hold up well enough on a surface that is so heavy used and susceptible to water. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you for your work man, you are a legend.
I would say no no no. The reason behind this is people are going to naturally use cleaners and the backs of sponges on every countertop someone’s multiple times a day. This will strip the wax off in no time. On a cutting board unless you cut meat on it you brush it off with a paper towel, most of the time dry. A butcher block counter with only this on it I would assume you’d be reapplying it many times a year to keep it saturated to a healthy amount.
This may be a dumb question but I've never used beeswax before... Would this be good to reduce friction on tools and jigs too? I'm sick of the minwax wax smell. Thanks, I'm new to your videos but I think they're great and I'm loving my stop block from you!
Great video, just found your channel and love the content. What does the finish end up like after applying it? Does it harden? Is it similar to a paste wax finish?
Maybe a dumb question, but when using this, do you need oil a cutting board before applying this finish? Or can you go straight from sanding to the goo?
How heat-resistant is the goo? I'm looking at building a butcher block countertopped kitchen island for my fiance for Christmas, and would like to know if a hot pan would strip the finish, if placed without a hot pad.
I made this and used it on a cutting board made of hard maple and cherry with a couple coats. I put a prime rib on the board for carving and now the board has spots where the meat juices soaked in. Did I not put enough on? Should I do straight mineral oil first and then condition with the goo? Or is this something that will happen with wood cutting boards? It's edge grain also if that matters. I'm going to sand the board again and finish once more and I think it will be fine but wanted to ask.
Hey man great stuff. I have been using using mineral oil and then beeswax separately for a few years now. I did make up a batch of the goo and have some boards I’m prepping to finish. Bit my question is regarding hard maple. Will all combos of oil and beeswax “yellow” the maple. I love the whitish effect before finishing and then after application I find a little of the wow factor has gone away because the contrasts are not as dramatic. Any suggestions?
Jonathan, I made your recipe using the same oil and beeswax you did and followed the directions including times but I noticed that the finished product seems a little on the thin or liquid side. Will adding more wax solve this and if I want to make something that is more like a paste wax can I go to a 3 parts wax to 1 part oil ratio or is that going too far.
How protective is this? Say for a cutting board; would this be sufficient, or need to be combined with something else for additional protection. I don't foresee it being heavily washed or anything, but I'd hate to give someone something and it wear out a year later due to poor finishing.
What's the melting point of this stuff? Would it be a bad idea to use as a top coat on a multifunction workbench in Arizona? I'm thinking it might regoo in the summer heat.
@Jonathan Katz-Moses I have made this goo and pop the grain on my cutting board and then do a final sanding before applying the goo. I put multiple coats (too many to count) and then buff. The board is butter smooth but the first time I clean it with a damp cloth, the grain pops some. It's not really rough but not smooth anymore. Is this common or am I doing something wrong? I have even tried popping the grain twice before applying the finish and it doesn't help. Thanks!
Is there a way of tinting it? Like maybe adding a splash of walnut tinted danish oil??? Granted, will compromise food safeness, but will it maybe give a nice wax finish and make it darker, to let’s say something like ash?
Lol i knew it had to have bees wax, from the last vid, how it just solidified. I make a leather conditioner just like this i just replace the mineral oil with neats foot oil
I made some using 3 to 1 instead of 4 and it still seems to leave an oily finish, is it because I forgot to mix while cooling? Maybe the oil seperated from the wax during its curing time?
How often would you anticipate needing to re-apply this? I'm sending my family some cutting boards for Christmas and want to see some goo with them so they can keep the boards fresh for a while...
How long does it usually take for the wood to absorb it all in because I've tried using it on Birchwood but it still feels oily after 24 hours and have wiped off the remainder that wasn't absorbed
I won't need permission to use our Crockpot® to make the goo, I just need to clean it well when I'm finished. Cleaning it shouldn't be difficult, but cleaning it before it has thickened would make clean up quite a bit easier.
just curious if anyone tried to make this goo with pure tung oil instead of mineral oil. what could be potential issues with using tung oil? (other than $$)
How important is the ratio? I guess measuring by volume vs. weight makes a big difference and depending on the size of the wax pellets you can get the volume might fluctuate as well. I will definitely try this for my next cutting board.
Tried it with a 2:1 ratio (by weight) . The finished goo basically was a solid. I will heat it back up and add even more fluid. In Germany it is bit difficult to know how "mineral oil" should be translated. I went with Wikipedia and got pure "Paraffin" from the pharmacy.
Let’s see -- I’m supposed to take my wife’s crockpot out into the shop to make up a batch of Katz-Moses Goo. Nah - I don’t think so. 😲 She does want me to make cutting boards for presents sometime so when I do I guess I’ll have to get a crockpot for the shop.
Russell Borrego very true but small crock pots are fairly cheap and much safer than those that have been sitting around for many years. I know when we upgraded to a new one for our kitchen the one we gave away was thirty years old.
Both ingredients are food safe, so I’m going to whip up some of this in my regular kitchen crockpot. But, as a female woodworker living alone, both the kitchen and the shop are my domain. Better get permission from your ladies first, gentlemen. :)
Hi Jonathan. I wanted to buy beeswax using your affiliate link. But when I click on it, it says it’s cosmetic grade. Is that safe enough for cutting boards?
Hey, love your videos and have learnt a lot from them so far. I was wondering if you have made a Vegan friendly version with Carnauba wax? If so what's the ratios you'd use?
Lol well either way couldn’t be more grateful for the content. Because of content creators like you finally started a woodworking shop with a friend and loving every minute of it.
hi there, I hope you still read comments on old videos, but I seem to be having an issue with the goo. I followed the ratio, but it seems like the mixture isn't fully hardening. Does anyone have any thoughts on what could be happening or what I can do to fix this? I have like 20 4oz tins with oily wax. It's very weird. Any help would be appreciated.
