Making the world's LARGEST Tabletop Tank (was a nightmare) 

You will have a much better time printing this epic tank than I did 🥲 www.myminifactory.com/campaigns/giant-modular-tank-stl-ark-super-heavy-weapon-platform-1586

I respect you showing the realities of the hobby. So many of the hype channels are all '3 steps for perfect XYZ' and you actually show that sometimes I still want to chuck my goddamn printer in the garbage two years into printing.

It's kind of amazing that a dedicated business based around supporting your files does such a bad job at it. Props to you for actually taking the time to fix stuff and do it right!

I've gotta say, between your sense of humor, the way you shoot your videos, the music, great voice over. You have become my favorite printing channels, glad you are getting sponsors and looking forward to see what you do in the future.

Atlas tried to recreate dealing with forgeworld resin in 3dprinter form

This isn't a tank, it's evolved BEYOND a tank at this point. It's a Landship, the sheer size of it means it deserves such a lofty and grand title.

A small note that you should know: anycubic resin shrinks, like a LOT. I use phrozen, its expensive but then again its a kilo of resin

A silicon dinner tray/pet mat under the printer makes drips and spills from finished prints a lot less of a hassle.

Dude, you are super talented. Your own music, your own editing, your own supports, your own painting, your own research and production. Keep up the great work!

Holy crap man. I was wondering why aren't you making videos but looking at what you must have gone through I'm glad that you even want to continue youtube and 3d printing.

I really respect how hard you worked for this! From trouble shooting someone else mistake to fixing and adjusting your paint on the fly. Good job!

Arm chair modeler here but it feels like this project should have started life as you using the no more nails to make an mdf box and ended with you glueing the tracks to the sides of it and the rest as small structures or greeble plates on top and front / back. that inner compartment structure demands a really high print quality to work. Warpings less of an issue when you're gluing warped stuff to a former and not warped things to other warped things.

The failed prints issues definitely help diagnose some of my failed prints. I'm dealing with more than just those, but it gives me hope I will one day have successful prints.

9:15 Regarding getting wounded during de-supporting. I've started to use snap ring pliers to de-support pieces. Not only are the pliers strong, they have round edges which means that they pressure the supports from the side instead of cutting them, causing the supports to almost always break off at the connection point to the miniature. And crucially, you don't risk putting too much power into the de-supporting which risks losing control, and the loss of control causes those sorts of slicing motions that in turn leads to cutting yourself on sharp edges of the printing base or the miniature itself. After all, resin is very good at tensile and compressive resistance, but not very good at torsion or bend resistance, and the pliers cause bend and torsion at the same time on the tips. Wiggle the pliers deep inside the supports, pressure them, and you break a good chunk of the supports off. All the while you are putting the pliers to the risk instead of your soft tissue. Just, buy a set of cheap snap ring pliers from local shop, don't get expensive ones (because they can get *really* expensive) and don't ask to loan them from a mechanic, because they will hate you forever if you fiddle around with their snap ring pliers.

That issue with the Body piece is all too common unfortunately, as a lot of newer modelers lack a good workflow to truly fix non-manifold geometry, especially if they're working in Blender as opposed to a CAD software. The most common practice of "repairing" in 3D builder has some issues as 3D builder can just outright refuse to acknowledge the file is non-manifold; Microsoft just needs to add a manual remesh button. I try my best to avoid this by booleaning bodies together whenever possible, and remeshing sculpted bodies together, the earlier its fixed the less likely it is to be a problem on a large scale.

Fdm cosplay stl's have the same problem. I always pre-support, orient and organise my models with instructions for settings and assembly. But when i purchased a few models from other people to inspect i noticed none of them bothered with any of that. Youre doing the emperors work

It's really great to see this entire process, but it also confirms my feelings about printing large, multipart models in resin: It's probaby just way easier to print them on an FDM printer, especially stuff like tanks and vehicles. Dimensional accuracy is just way, WAY better, less of a hassle and at that size, layer lines are probably not even much of a factor anymore. I just find that process a lot more fun than having to deal with warping resin and models that half peel off the supports and all the issues that come with that.

Great Video as always, We really need a resin printing community wide push to hold "pre supported" stamped minis to a minimum standard of quality.

Warped prints are fantastic for chaos, orks or scenery.

Now I understand your absence for so long. Damn, what a nightmare indeed between the fails and the spills this was painful to watch. In the end the fact that you can see where the model was cut gives a lot of character to the tank, they look like welding and battlefield repairs. The channel is growing and it is all well deserved for your work, quality (of everything you do actually), personality and Australian banter and chillness. And the Big Lebowski skit was gold lol

I got into 3d printing because I wanted a really expensive model. So I did some looking around and I found the files for it, With no knowledge and just a quick RU-vid search I started trying to print it out. Long story short and a dozen bottles of resin later lol It's built and I'm almost done painting it. I'm looking forward to start printing it again hopefully it won't take 8 months to complete lol.

I'm now realizing I could be a professional 3d print supporter and repairer after spending hours remeshing, supporting and repairing my own dumbass projects

Even though you turned down the job of creating the supports for this model the work you did on ensuring this model can be printed by other people saved it from being an utter disaster - fantastic video

One thing that definitely helps a lot, especially with a larger project like this, is a wash&cure 2+. I always chuck my Mono X's entire plate in there before removing even a single damn thing from the plate or supports, just so I don't have to do a "wet" removal with resin getting absolutely everywhere. Had to do it the messy way with my old Photon, and I am extremely glad those days are over and done. Never again.

You have become one of my favorite hobby channels on youtube. Good job, mate 🤘 Also: i feel the pain. Building a ... uhm ... let's call it a lightning eagle cannon ship atm. With the creator it is always: load files in blender and fix them, then microsoft 3d repair, then add supports and hollow. And the parts never fit. But goddamn. the models look simply amazing in the end! Keep up the good work

Good on you for showing the good and the bad of the hobby. Especially of what to be wary of jumping in. Even calling out the lack of quality control in these prints Earned a sub

After considering getting into making a Death Korps of Krieg army and watching that video where a Leman Russ was kitbashed to be Krieg-style, I can already see myself printing this tank then putting whole sand-bag covered gun emplacements on the outer hull since there's clearly enough room for a guardsman to walk around or set up their heavy guns. Really add to all that flat space on the hull. Cheers!

Now I kinda want to see this go head to head against Pete the Wargamer's Stormsabre

What a freaking huge project :O you smashed it though man. I probably would of given up, you are the MACHINE!

Your determination to put together those warped pieces is remarkable. With my tolerance I would have drop kicked that fucken thing over the back fence if even less than half those pieces were only half as warped.

The best part about the failures though is that they make excellent terrain pieces. Depending on the failure, they can either be chaos warped, melted from war, corroded to near dust, or used in an Ork wall of scrap. The possibilities are endless. I have had more fun recently recycling the box of shame from the playgroup then building my armies. Thanks in no short part to all the content creators making awesome stuff...

"It's as big as the play area!" "...it IS the play area."

What you call overlapping shells, are Overlapping Normals. Also normals facing each creating hollows are common when someone is new too creating new files, This is really bad for trapping uncured resin inside. Would have been alot better if the tracks were seperate and maybe the innershell was FDM printed.

I've had the problem with those colliding shells and corrupted files so damn often, that it became a standard routine for me to run every file through Meshmixer and 3d Builder before printing, just as a precaution.

Im actually really glad you included how frustrating this build for you was. Im pretty new to 3d printing and had a hell of a time printing and assembling an unsupported Storm Raven STL. Wasted so many hours and liquid resin but eventually got it built. Its not perfect but I learned a lot doing it. Anyway, love the videos and Im looking forward to what you got planned next

You've really got something special with your channel. You're going places man and I can't wait to see it

personally for me, I love making detail, like the logic behind the design, even tiny bit will help sell the design and tell the story on what your working on

Thanks for sharing your experience with this model, the good and the bad. Makes it so much more awesome seeing it painted after seeing what you had to do to get there!

Well done for sticking with it. Excellent result and erm "mini". So now to find a UK seller of the printed version..

Videos like this is why I haven't taken the plunge and gotten into 3d printing. Potentially hundreds in resin down the drain just trying to get one model printed properly.

As much as your printing a titan geeked me up to print a giant piece… this one freaked me out. But it did also prop me up when I saw how warped a bunch of your parts were. It allowed me to take a breath and realize I wasn’t always f’ing things up.

Having printed a pretty big model myself, the pains of such a large project really brought back some PTSD. Amazing work, you've earned my subscription.

Local printer finds bolo, bolo unit disagrees along the way

Damn, that looks incredible! I'm only a few months into 3D printing so ive been stumped when trying to figure out the problem with failed prints, your methodology of fixing them taught me a load, brilliant video. Can you buy the files for the tanks you showed at the beginning anywhere?

thanks a bunch for having QCed and fixed the files ;)

Your personality boosts my confidence, Sir. Please don't burn yourself, don't spread yourself too thin. . Troubleshooting being both the best and/or the worst, I deeply appreciate both the compound and simple effects of your hard work. (It seems that you see a bigger picture on your actions) . I dont have pockets to properly support you. I will. 2024. . You should fucking love the absurd tank model, leave the improvement opportunities for later in cases like this. Priorities. This is a huge win, with many beautiful side effects. . Open a beer or something next time you want to bash yourself. . You survived the nightmare, _and_ shared many gifts with the world while at it. . Personally, I appreciate the way you walk, talk and act. More than anything, I appreciate the way you inspire. . Don't say out loud that you are bad at your job. You know what a shitty job is, you've seen it. . Your efforts added a paid subscription to your patreon as a goal to meet in this year of 2024. You seem to be _damn good_ at your job, from my uneducated newcomer perspective. . May you bump into infinite money, so you keep doing *you* without ever having to think about paying your bills.

It's a good lesson for anyone who wants to design models to be liquid-resin printable, always consider ways you can introduce drainage holes or channels into parts so that any voids can drain out and thus prevent spills.

literally only 6 minutes in and already loving the clear/visual way you presented this information on supports!

Really interesting. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! And nice improvement from your editing style. The 3d illustration are a plus

at 9:10, I felt that happen. I've scared my hand so many times since I started 3 years ago. At least at all those failed prints could have been used as modified terrain pieces...which will be something else to add to the "To do list"

Wait were these files actually supported by Atlas 3d? Like they've done some huge files for Onepagerules and nothing has ever failed to print, even if I scale the STL up or down 15%. It's hard to believe that Atlas fucked up this bad.

congratulations man! that's a badass mainbattle tank

Good to see a new video! Always inspiring to start a new project. No big tanks for me....maybe small ones....maybe

Hello darkness my old friend.... I feel your pain bro. This video was hella nostalgic

As mutch as I would like to get into resin printing, the mess is the one thing that's stopping me, especially since I would not really be able to have a dedicated room/ setup to have this in the first place

I run a 3D print farm and your videos have been great to learn more about this craft, the issues you tackle and the way you explain are great!

Great job, I learnt so much about resin printing on this video. Outstanding content.

It looks somehow factory fresh and INCREDIBLY battle worn at the same time with the gap fillers. Honestly that extra texturing is something I've tried recreating on some of my wrecked vehicles and I'm going to have to try using some of those construction materials.

I'm glad you made this video. I have the same printer and do not want to go through as much hassle. Now I know what to do!

Had the same thread lock on my Mars 3 Pro a few months ago. I didn't tap it, just dip the screws in IPA and run them in and out a few times. Any time I take the screws out I dip them in IPA before putting them back and haven't had an issue with resin drops locking them up, and it should keep the threads clear as it will dissolve any minute amounts that get in there.

The tank looks great! Thanks for the hard work you put in.

I'm surprised your elegoo works so well. I got a Neptune 2 a year ago, but nothing made it work right and I haven't touched it since last fall

I never thought I'd advocate FDM for miniature modelling (though that tank is hardly miniature), but just seeing the measures you had to take to deal with that warping makes me realize it still does have an application.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I was hardcore into printing resin models for display for a while. Still a patron of about a half dozen designers on Patreon. Kinda lost the will print after having so many poorly pre-supported models fail. I now only print models I can support myself, but it boggles my mind how many designers only provide pre-supported files. I didn't even know most of these places hired that work out to a company, but it makes sense. It also makes sense why they're usually so poorly done.

I believe what you've done is the literal definition of "Painting a Turd".. Which you've done fantastically.

I love seeing you cure the parts outside. I was in a fb group for 3d printing and I said this is how I did it also and got so many people saying that the sun would actually melt the resin lol. No dude you don't print at all do you? lol

I use 3D builder and repair every model I use. Super easy and sometimes it can take an hour to repair bigger models. But I’d say 90% require repairs. It’s made my life so easy.

Love the vid. Could you PLEASE share your print settings on the Mars 3 Pro for a project like this? Would be amazingly helpful!!

Wow great work. That is what I call dedication.

ouch! getting cut like that is exactly why I use nippers to take off the large sheet at the bottom.

That topology at 14:36! no wonder

Que gran trabajo, totalmente una inspiración :D

Keep in mind. As a professional 3D artist working in miniature sculpting, I am able to guarantee a model is fine. Solid, with no problems. However, Lychee will still see them as having problems. So I honestly believe that Lychee deliberately overdoes its error detection so that users will see a lot of red models, feel the need to fix them, and subscribe to try and fix them. I've printed so many models that are shown as red that I no longer care.

Great video. Suffered from. Those problems for a while. I recently bought chitubox pro and it does a fantastic job of repairing prints in the slicer. Thanks for the great info!

I just giggled like a little kid due to the Big Lebowski audio added. I shall forever play this in my head as I clean my prints now.

My first thought seeing this was "this should probably be FDM printed" you guys are crazy

2:40 me when assembling GW minis

Racing stripes would be funny. Unit markings and maybe safety markings would be more realistic. Heh, giant tank made solely for racing.

That fix at 15:00 saved me so much trouble I printed a base 3 time and was having the same issues. Went though cleaning everything repeatedly. Still had the failure. Guess I should take a look at me geo for that base

Dude you printed a coffee table. Great video i subscribed.

Resin makes great terrain, but learning to get the angle of print just right to keep the dimensions square on one part is challenging...1-3 prints just to get the part square multiplied by the number of parts...thats a full time job

Do you plan on making a video about installing a flexible build plate on a resin printer? You mentioned it briefly in another video but didn't go quite into detail. I've got the same mars 3 but I was wondering if you needed to make some changes to the printer software to account for the 2 mm increase. Have you had any trouble with the flex plate brand you bought?

I know topology doesn't matter that much when it comes to 3d Printing but as someone working with 3d those meshes scare me, amazes me there is not more issues.

Thank you for this video. I spend so much hours to fix models and supports that was supposed to be "print ready". I did this on fdm for years and it was a pain but then resin slicers were all pretending automatically repairing and it went crazy. Almost all the files I downloaded since then had to be modded (there are exceptions but I will not give names since I'm not doing advertisement here). If you compare figure market and minis/dnd market you can see they don't put the same attention to preparing the files.

As a small creator and press my self thank you for helping this guy make their creation better! Like I know what iut's like to be press and only recently the creator so I know how hard can be to take time to support the other so thank you again!

Trying to figure out which printer I should get, and what a great channel I stumbled upon. Interviewing the artists is such a wonderful idea.

about jamming mars 3. I think I've got some resin into threaded hole where tank screw goes (I couldn't put the screw in deeper than 1-2 milimeters). I asked elegoo for help they asked me to buy threading tap (that's how you call it?) and use it for fix and offered refund for the tool if I send them receipt. Luckily I could borrow the tool from someone and... Fix was so easy with it that I didn't need handle for the tool :D Also elegoo support said it won't affect warranty as they told me to do it.

Excellent video! Props to DAOfactory for putting in the work to really going the extra mile to make sure everything is in order. On the other hand, this is further reinforcement of my dissatisfaction with people who do presupports. I'm pretty new to printing, but I've only *once* come across a model (that wasn't a base) that didn't have glaring problems with its presupports that even I could catch. THOUSANDS of people are gonna be printing these models. Is it really too much to ask of a professional presupporter to run their model through UV tools and fix mesh errors in 3d builder??

I had the same problem with the vat screws on my Photon M3 Max. I took one to a hardware store and picked up exactly the right replacement bolts (M6-1.0 x 40mm). They have a 10mm hex head, so I can use a ratchet driver to screw them in & out. No one is going to invent their own bolts, so I can promise you can find yours at the hardware store too.🤓

It looks as if the affiliate links in the description are broken. Tried to follow the wash and cure one as I liked the look, but just had an error message.

Been wondering where you've been, always look forward to your videos

Wow. I don’t 3D print myself; but my cousin has 2 and has turned into a bloody Forgeworld. Hahahaha. I’m impressed with your whole process, I have seen the challenges of plastic and resin printing and you’ve done an excellent job. Thanks for the video

Iron Hands: “She’s… *[sniff]* …beautiful! WE’LL TAKE 30!!”

Would love to see you rate/review MOID on MMF and pateon. Their presupports are amazing

As a warhammer noobie whos only been into it for about 4/5 months this whole 3d printing sceme, community really baffles me, the model looked incredible but the time, effort, costs, etc just puts me off

Looks great, but at 26:53,should there be a door or some vent/part in this flat area?

Atlas needs a proper QA department

What a great, informative video.

I've found I've had to add my own extra supports to a lot of pre-supported files. Usually just adding some default mediums in Lychee is enough for me. They act as the central pillars to the rest of the support structure.

If I had paid for those model files, I would have been upset. Looks like an absolute nightmare to print.