Holy crap! That turned out awesome! I love the way you use actual names for parts (i.e graduated container, pillow block). Most people just say “thingy” 😂
Great job. You have really good skills and made it very understandable. I've got a 2030 and wish someone like you fo a youtube on setting up the jointer when beds or not co-planer and resetting blades after sharpening.
Thanks, If I remember next time I change blades I'll do a short on how I set them up. If your tables aren't co-planer, there isn't much you can do other than having them re-ground. You can hand scrape the dove tails, but that takes special measuring equipment.
Specs for those rollers that I have found spec a 2" diameter for recovered rollers so you are probably undersized. Otherwise this is one of the best fix it videos I have seen
Literally the only video I've been able to find anywhere of a diy solution for rubber rollers. 80 bucks more like 100 bucks each when taking into account shipping to replace my dw735 rollers, 200 bucks is half of what I paid for the planer to begin with it's ridiculous. For those without a lathe could someone just buy tubing with the exact ID they need and just use it straight out of the mold? Not to hard to get tubing with a specific ID.
initially i thought they would have to be turned, but the runout after I de-molded mine was very very minimal. So yes I believe you could skip turning them if the I.D. of your mold was the correct size.
Curious to know how well the rollers are feeding the wood through the planer. I have just the 16” planer model 2040 and I need to replace my temp solution for the rollers.
They are working great, the durometer seems to be just about right. To get good grip on the board, I have the depth of cut set to a point where the top of the board (cutter side) occasionally drags slightly on the casting right where the depth indicator is. The holes in the drive roller bearing blocks are offset, so by rotating them you can change the height of the rollers in relation to the bed. I started with them in the orientation that puts the rollers farther away from the bed. So I'll rotate the blocks 180 which will lower them slightly and take care of that. So that said, the only thing I might do different is to increase the finished diameter of the rollers by 1/64" or so. The problem with that is then I would have had to machine out the ID of the PCV pipe I used for the mold.
Are you referring to the aluminum plugs I put in the end of the tubes before pouring? if so I machined them out of aluminum. or are you referring to something else?
I've had a couple other's ask, and though I like helping folks out, I just have too many of my own projects on my plate. however, I only machined mine after de-molding as I'm picky, and I took a minimal amount off. That said if the tube you use for the mold has the correct I.D. there aren't any special tools needed. So I'd encourage you to give it a try
