I Sure hope other brands take not....uh umm Milwaukee...and put a track capable base plate on their saws... I mean why not! Let me know below if you agree with me!
@@RRBuildings Likely because to have such a feature, you need to have a stronger plate, and they're all about taking away, not putting on. So until they all figure out a cheap way to do it, not gonna be a thing.
Great saw especially ru-vid.comUgkxxnKxcY0vm4xjW8xkPbjaHuKt10gr-wG_ considering how drastically cheaper it is than every other track saw on the market. Only things I would mention is replace the blade immediately, the 24 tooth blade supplied leaves a lot to be desired.
The rip fence is for accurate repeatability. Say I had to rip a 200 1 1/2" strips of half inch plywood to fir out some studs on a remodel job. You wouldn't wanna measure and position your track every time, you can just set the fence at 1 1/2".
Exactly 💯......I can't believe he didn't get this aspect. I also would use it for cutting all of the header center pieces out of 1/2" plywood when framing.
I was one of those people that openly criticized track saws. I thought they were the biggest waste of money. It just did what a board clamped to a sheet of plywood could do. Then I had a project that used a lot of cabinet grade cherry plywood. In order to get the best use from the plywood, I had to layout a lot of parts that did not allow cutting all the way across or down the length of the plywood. I broke down and bought a cordless Makita track saw and could not believe how easy it was to layout cuts and plunge where needed. I got enough track to make 4' cuts and 8' cuts without having to separate the the 8' in half. Now every plywood project start with cutting everything to size with the track saw then refining (If needed) at the table saw. As I have gotten older it has become harder to lift hardwood plywood into position on the table saw. It's not bad at all tilting it on my workbench and cutting it down. Now I'm jealous because yours is bigger than mine. 🤔
The 1 degree back bevel give you an extra tight fit when butting let’s say a piece of ply to a fixed wall! It allows you to really get a tight seam at the top of the bevel. Bet u did not know that -ha! I am a cabinet maker:)
I agree, I was going to say the same thing and then i found your comment. However his question was I can do that on the other side of 90 degrees as well, so why have that option? Just ease of use would be my guess.
Maybe the -1 degree setting is easier to set up than +1, since the -1 has a hard stop, and +1 doesn't (like the 60, 45, and 22.5)? The -1 would also allow you to fix a misalignment, we all know how 90 degrees hardly ever really is 90 degrees, and you sometimes need to tweak it a bit. Giving the option to go negative means you don't have to flip the workpiece or saw around whenever you're facing that issue.
RR Buildings Love your youtube keep up the great work. Just want you to be careful " 16.27" I had to look away 🙄😙😢. I'm sure you are a great professional but it only takes a split second to change your life. Stay safe. Philip a fan of your work.
Impressive that it can cut through 4 sheets of 3/4" ply but dumb it can't cut a 4x4 off. A 9 1/2" blade could have fixed that. Or just use a common 10".
I'm super impressed. I will most likely pick one up. Only dislikes i see is it's a blade right and it won't cut a 4x4. After using a blade left for more than 5 years i absolutely can not stand a blade right.
The explanation I got on negative one degree is for flooring. You lay your floor tight to the wall and then use a tracksaw tight to the wall with a negative 1 degree cut.
I like sidewinders for a few reasons. First being that on most cuts, especially when cutting a few inches or less off of a 2x, the majority of the shoe is on the work piece, which is held firm, and not on the scrap which falls off. The more of the saw shoe on the work piece the more stable throughout the cut, especially when plunge cutting (think fast cross cut by resting base on far edge of board and chopping down) a 2x4 or 6. A right handed guy can't cut with the majority of the saw on the piece with a rear handle, at least without crossing his arms over each other and cutting towards themselves. They tend to put the 1.5" side of the shoe on the piece and the larger portion on the scrap, which can lead to some accidental, and ugly, bevels. Secondly, cutting and measuring rafters with bevels tends to be easier when working with the long point.. It is very awkward when production framing to try to hold a board when cutting this way with a rear handle. You have to cut toward your hand, and need the majority of the rafter on a table or horses. With a sidewinder you can hold the board with your left hand and cut with your right, away from your body. The line of sight thing shouldnt be an issue either... The windows are very big, especially on the new Makitas. Regardless, watch the notch, not the blade, after it enters the board on the line. It corrects any sloppy cut sooner.. Laborers / new guys often watch the blade (only an issue when cutting sheet goods really) and i constantly get on them about that.. It's the reason their cuts look like the ocean :) Signed, 18 year rough carpenter in Michigan. And damn it's been hot lately! Edit: to clarify, these issues occur when holding your material... That's all we do here though. Cutting everything on Saw horses would alleviate these issues for the most part, but for us they are for laying out my stringers and building headers. We move quickly and cut whatever it is, wherever it is. Cheers!
A fellow side-winder fan. Agree strongly on almost all points, especially about the weighted side of the saw, not being on the cut-off side. If you’ve developed your skill by watching the table notch, by all means, don’t change a thing. I’ve just always found the ‘notch’ to be somewhat useless once you set the saw to a bevel though. I’ve always watched the blade and it’s always worked for me, as well as most of the carpenters I’ve worked with. Go with what’s comfortable for you. In the US, the sidewinder vs ‘worm-drive’ debate has always seemed to be a very regional preference. Guys from the east use side-winders and guys from the West love their worm-drives. The one exception to the rule seems to be commercial form-carpenters who also tend to lean towards ‘the worm’. In my experience it seems that whatever type of saw you learned on, is always going to be your go-to preference. I’ve compared it to operating an excavator or a back-hoe. If you learned on an ISO control pattern, you’ll always prefer ISO. If you’re an SAE control pattern guy, chances are that’s what you learned on. Same with surfing/skateboarding. If you put your right foot up front when you first learned, you’ll always be a goofy-foot. Right foot in the back you’ll always be a reg.
@@psidvicious I agree completely. Whatever you learned on is a hard habit to break! About the notch and bevel... Absolutely. Only on 45s (2nd notch), square cuts, sheet goods and long rips. Any bevel cutting between 5 and 40 degrees I watch blade as well.
@@dylanhatch4086 It’s not quite that simple and it can be difficult to explain without sketches, but, here goes; The problem comes in with beveled cuts. Square cut to square cut on a board, no problem. You could walk around to the other side and cut (all be it, somewhat of a waste of time). With beveled cuts, you have no choice on which side to cut from because the saw only tilts in one direction. Most people (90% right-handed) instinctively cut the right side of the board first then move down to the left. Making a very common, long to short cut, with a worm-drive, the ‘heavy-side’ of the saw ends up on the cut-off side and tends to dip down as the piece falls away. With practice, you can learn to overcome this tendency, but it always there. [sketches would be worth a thousand words]
@@jaycehezekia441 ok... Tell me what companies don't do that... Most companies try and improve on concepts after the initial release of a product and after the.. Ohh man it escapes me now.. Copyright time frame I believe. Some companies direct their rd to "new" concepts and tools others towards "refinements"....
Just recently purchased the Milwaukee Rear Handle like the one You had in the vid... Could not be more impressed... Cut through multiple layers of plywood for a good part of the day, and it didn't bog down a bit and after all of the work it did that day, it only went down one bar on the battery... still three bars left... DUDE! That was on the 9.0 battery... Great Toolsday Kyle
The rip fence is important to me . I mill timber with skill saws all the time. You don't need marks on it. You mark the timber cut the length of the blade once . Stick the fence in with the blade already in the timber lock it and finish the cut .Pluss all the following cuts .
i think the -1* adjustment is just to ensure that you can square up the blade with the base. if they had a hard stop at exactly 0, and it was .25* off you could never get a square cut
Good morning Kyle! I've had the Festool TS55 for over ten years now, back then it was really the only player in the game. While I love my corded TS55 for in the shop sheet-goods breakdown, a cordless version with a track would be nice. I have the 7-1/4" Bosch left-hand blade with a homemade track/guide, a very useful tool. How is the DC on that Makita Saw? That extra 1/8" not realized. I wonder if there is some regulation that limits the capacity to under 4"...? Cheers from Tokyo! Stu
I just wish that Makita would make a mini track saw. Maybe a 4 1/2 blade and 18 volt Only needs to cut 3/4 on a 45 degree angle. For cabinet and trim work.
Awesome saw. Lots of great features, especially that thumb lever for the guard. It did a great job out at the cabin the other day. There's no good reason to be opposed to a track saw. Get a better result in less time, that's a win-win.
Hey Kyle. I'm thinking minus 1° would really come in handy for flooring when you need to cut up against a wall. Especially when most circ saw guards will not allow you to get that close. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills. 👍🏾
I like the fact that Makita has stayed with their standard battery format and just doubled them up. So many functions on this saw, its like a swiss army knife for cutting stuff.
Would be nice if they could put a common 10” blade on it. I have being stuck buying a blade that only works with one saw. That would solve the 4x4 cut problem also.
Dewalt has made the track baseplate for a year now, i think. I know they make it for the flexvolt and has released the 18/20 v. dcs 572 with the same baseplate for tracks.
Even with my 20 years experience I will still use the track to get that precise cut. I love my joints to be tight, that’s a nice saw .but like you said I like the left side for better visibility. great job .God bless
Great review! I know I'm super late to the party, but need this saw for ripping thick slabs, so need the depth of cut it has. But, need a really good blade for glue-ups. Does anyone know of a blade that might work with this for that, or is the blade it comes with sufficient for gluing without using a jointer? TIA!
I have enjoyed the blade the saw came with, very clean cuts. If you're steady with your hand it cuts and leaves a surface of about 100 grit, but you can put 9 inch blades on it to get more options.
Nice saw! Wish it could cut 4x material on the track... must have a track saw on site in my opinion, and this is a step up from the regular makita track saws we use. Do I need it? Or do I just want it? 🤔
Love our Makita cordless saws on the job but hate their new "efficient" thin kerfed blade. The teeth are too narrow in relation to the body / or the body is too thin. Either way, the blades walk and warp all over when you rip and tend to bind. I throw them right out and use Diablo.
Makita slays the impact and saw market, but lack the battery capacity and cordless nailers compared to other brands. Still my number one choice of tools for everyday contracting!
This circular saw has all the right features! I'm going to buy this saw because I don't have a track saw and I don't have a circular saw that has the capability to cut a 4x4
Man Makita must have sent a big check with this one.... :) Nice to see they actually put some new ideas into this saw and just didn't drop another cordless circular saw. Plus the thought of not making a whole new set of batteries needed.
Thanks again for another great video. The most glaringly obvious aspect of the entire demonstration is that you care entirely too much about the minuscule number of people who are critical of the standard in which you build. Keep doing your thing brother, you’re an inspiration to us all.
Just purchased this saw and it's incredible. Honestly the best saw purchase of all time thanks for the video it's super accurate and lots of power. I would never of thought of this saw if I hadn't seen this video thanks. Much love from the UK
Is there a Left Sided blade version? Right sided are nightmares. I want the weight on my piece, not my cutoff. And running down a big board is a pain going Left to Right with a right sided blade is poop. Hopefully Left sided blade comes out soon. I only have my right arm, and if a right, a Left side blade is a must.
My dad is a Miwaukee Carpenter, and I have all Makita... Everytime I talk to him about tools, he goes in to a 30 minute diatribe about how he analyzed all the tools and decided Milwaukee was the best... I have to buy this just to finally get something that he will have to agree is better than anything he has. My only problem with this saw is the 9 1/4" blade... No one else makes a blade that fits it... What if I want a 60 tooth blade or want to use it for faster rips with a lower tooth count? I get 24 teeth and thats it.
@@Elena-ui2fjI have heard of people use 9 inch blades to get more options, kinda sucks that Makita won't make 3 blades for the flagship saw in this battery family though.
Any top of the line tool is more than enough for most construction and tbh most mid grade carpentry like bookshelves and picnic tables. And it's great, I'm gonna do my own brakes so I have an excuse to get an impact wrench, lol. But of the battery powered track saws, this is decidedly the best.
Will you test if your festool HK saw works on the makita track? I know the festool tracksaw does, but not sure about the HK. I'm ordering one, but I'd rather save on the long tracks if possible
no 4x4" cut. Most likely as for european and japanese market this is likely marketed as 85mm depth saw. I know 80x80mm (so are 75x75) are common then mostly we use 100mm. we generally tend not use sizes in between much, as you only get them under normal circumstances as special (=expensive) on order cuts . Not sure about japan, but most timber here is multiply of 25 or 10's of mm. 4by4 as it not really 4 by 4 inches (would be 101.6mm instead of 89 or whathever it is) is not close to either 80 or 100mm sizes really. You will have to wait for saw expected to cut 100x100mm timber, as those will cut 105mm and change ... likely 10" inch blade saw? Also it seems that nuts holding blade to axle is limiting factor for depth not base plate ... I am sure, image of nut biting in wood sending blade somewhere is not very appealing to you :) blade goes as deep as those retaining nuts are safely allowing it to ...
So thankful for folks like you and your content. So many things in your life have to come together for you to have the ability to create/ let alone bring this kind of content to the world. It’s a miracle really and I hope this trend of RU-vid reviews etc gets even bigger This will definitely be my next circ/saw purchase
definitely cool - only thing it needs is an indicator for 18.5 degrees on the bevel stop. with 4/12 pitch still being pretty common I dont know why they dont do that. Either way - its a good-'un
Tips and tricks for Makita Vacuums and AWS. 1. Makita hose (Part number 195433-3) is the best hose to use on portable machines that I've found. They are soft flexible and lite, they can be daisy chained together for extra length and with Makita's front cuff (Part Number P-70421) can also be connected to a mains powered vacuum hose. If you look around there are 5m versions of this hose. The only down side I've noticed is they don't like a lot of heat. 2. AWS is awesome from the point of view that if used correctly it is possible to have a range of up to 200m for 1 vacuum if you have a long enough hose and 10 receivers (WUT02ZU) plugged into 1 vacuum with each receiver 20m away from the last one in a straight line. Why you'd want to go that far is beyond me but as a result it is easy to cover a large work area provided your vacuum is strong enough. Pool hoses are cheap. 3. An AC vacuum can be hidden away from your work area and a receiver can be run out on an extension cord with a hose to the work area. 4. Loss of suction over distance can be in part remedied by the fact that with the power outlet of a mains vacuum only being used to power a receiver it is possible to daisy chain 2 vacuums and a receiver. 5. The Makita AWS Miter saws can be connected to 2 AWS vacuums at once. If Makita make a cordless table saw it also could have one on the blade guard and under the table. 6. Dustless SDS drill bits work brilliantly with AWS and everyone that has used mine have either bought them or have them to their shopping list. 7. Makita have an AWS enabled back pack vacuum. The biggest down side is there isn't a battery sander, jigsaw, multitool or router (Makita has a battery belt sander patent) that uses AWS yet and they aren't putting it on the mains tools such as miter saws, table saws etc that are rated too high to plug into mains vacuums. I'm hoping for a bluetooth battery or adapter for older tools.
Such a great saw, but a big miss on the 3 3/8 cut depth. @RR BUILDINGS if you haven't already, can you go over your fall restraint/arrest equipment that you use?
Love your videos. Always very informative. We have the 36v Makita track saw and love it. We are also hopeful Milwaukee steps up and puts out a track saw very soon!
Why not make a 10 1/4? That blade cuts through 4 by material no problem and is readily Available. Just makita making an oddball size balde so you have to buy there's, would be like skilsaw using a 16 1/2" blade instead of the already available 16 5/16"
I would say the main reason they probably didn’t add the extra cutting capacity is for 2 reasons. 1) if they did want to claim they cut through 4x4 the would really need to make the saw cutting depth 3 11/16 for the reason I feel like majority of 4x4s you buy are almost never 3 1/2 2) I would say because it has track saw capabilities they would probably need to add more depth for the track. Could all be fixed if they used a 10in blade and could get a little more depth out of the saw
Hello sir !!!!!!! I am a complete beginner to woodworking and I absolutely loved your review.Would you recommend this saw for a beginner ? We have this model here in India.Kindly let me know at your convenience.Cheers.
what's your thoughts about the release of 40v? i am new in woodworking and planning to build my collection. shall I start in 40v or 18v still ok? do you think 18v will become obsolete in the future and 40v will takeover?
Well hey guess what? Milwaukee and DeWalt make track ready saws but they only sell them in Europe. The flex volt 579 is only in Europe. Oh and guess what else they sell just the base plate but only in Europe
Great review mate, agree with a track being a real help, not that I've got one. The guard start front lever was a stupendous idea!! How many times has your saw guard jammed on angled crosscuts? Too many.. The fence is a good idea if you have to rip strips off 10ft lumber cos the job needs 3/4" less width!! Thanks for a good one!
Makita should have used standard 10” table saw blades to cut a 4x4 using track. 9-1/4” will be a Sony Beta max. Kyle excellent job on the tool reviews and video quality, your better than “this old house”.
Just bought myself one after seeing your review, and I though I already had enough saws😊, The fence is much better for doing small accurate rips - say you need a pile of 2" rips, and the fence will also go in upside down for more base support or a fence against a wall for example
Hey I know there's a 8-month-old video but I wanted to point something out this is how I use my track saw it's not that 9 and 1/4 but you know I cut a lot of sheathing plywood is a non-cabinet environment, I'm considering getting the TSO rail square and the TSO parallel guides and I think it will work fantastic for what you're doing because when you're doing the four sheets these parallel guides you can just Mark the dimension that you need and have it already set. That way after you're done with your four sheet cut you can reposition this whole rail back on to the next set of four sheets on that same dimension without having to measure so that's one thing that you could probably use or the rail square which you would just use the back reference and you can make those long cuts with only measuring once this is where I was using it for like flooring subfloor on a few repairs and I just thought it was fantastic
Aside from being just awesome with the track, that little lever for the guard is gold. The AWS auto on/off with dust extraction is amazing, got it on my 12 inch sliding miter saw. Got this thing on my list of Makita tools to buy. Great review!
Well it's maybe built for metric users. In EU the closest wood size to a 4x4 lumber is 100x100mm, which is 1.6mm less than the 4 inch. So that would cut nicely :)
@RRBuildings So looking to get this saw but does it seem odd (pun intended) that this uses a blade that is only basically manufactured by Makita and just for this saw seemingly. Is that a deal breaker for anyone?
Totally Agree, You made 2 valid points TO BOOT! Cmon Milwaukee NO track saw,(We went out and bought Makita track saws, that hurt. We are 90% Red. Makita 9 1/4 , C’mon man another 1/4 and its 4x4 capable, Milwaukee take note.
I love your videos and the tons of knowledge it carries, I will love to work with you when I am finally in the US next year, will really make my dream come true
Makita have done the 18v batteries to make it easier to sell there gear here because of battery size laws and plus its probably cheaper sticking to one battery then chop change like De Walt with annoys guys here in the UK
I'm a remodeler and do you think the makita track saw is a good choice for a track saw? I do alot of kitchen and bath remodels and I would love something to make me that much more accurate. Thanks for your time
Hey, I've been watching your builds for quite awhile and really like them! Thanks for the amazing content. Any chance you could show us how you would install exterior electrical boxes through the sides of your steel buildings, or even things like vents or such through the sides? How would this be done after the construction to be done best?
@RR Building ... I was waiting for this review because I need a bigger cordless saw and this is on my list. Because I have already the Makita track saw so it’s working with the tracks. And second it’s “ cheaper “ then the upcoming 10 1/4 cordless circular saw from Skilsaw. But we will see
Wonder if you could be real naughty and stick it on the festool track, the one with the degrees and what not you can set on the track. Would be good. Best of both worlds.
