He gets right to the point and gives you all the information you need, straight up with no BS. I wasted an hour watching two other ones that didn't show half what he shows.
As always great job Bill. I am in my 4th class with him and he not only can teach and lay a ton of information on you, but make a long class fun, exciting, and a place you look forward to being in. This is the kind of guy you want as your technician that has more brains than a much senior tech. Edit: today I become an alumni of the program.
Gas companies are also responsible for the meter. Homeowner is responsible for everything after the meter outlet. Some services don’t have a regulator. If it is a low pressure service. Very good video.
That’s a very basic way to set gas pressure. That 3.5 rating on the furnace is in perfect conditions at an exact altitude with the exact size orfice.. Just because you set a furnace at 3.5” WC does not mean you getting a safe combustion or complete combustion. A combustion analyzer is the only proper way to determine your getting the correct fuel to air ratio. Adjusting the gas pressure up or down while watching the combustion readings to make sure your at the right oxygen and CO content within the furnace. So you may end up with 3.2” or 3.8” and orfices may need to be replaced to achieve this. So if your adjusting gas pressure with out doing a combustion analysis then your just guessing and could be leaving an unsafe condition.
@@brianmutascio8325 , you are correct. The manufacturer's info plate will supply you with minimum and maximum Inlet pressures, specific manifold pressure & temperature rise ranges. Oxygen, CO2, CO and moisture content can be analyzed. Analyzing the products of combustion is a good practice, so we can verify the unit is in range but using it to adjust gas pressure and determining the fixed orifice sizes should be left to the OEM not the installer. Just an FYI, a lot of things can affect combustion analyzation ( quality of gas, combustion air quality, humidity , Venturi adjustment, gas pressure and yes improper orifice sizing, but someone would have to make a mistake for that to happen). Anytime a gas Appliance is put into service, always follow manufacturers instructions,GAMA ( Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association) requirements & the National Gas Fuel Codes. Hope some of this helps and you all please stay safe out there.
I checked pressures on a the newer valve with the small allen key screws. I actually removed the screw and put it back as tight as it was (to the best of my knowledge) Is this going to cause an issue? I just heard you say to NOT remove the screw and just turn it a full turn.
On a high pressure service, the outside pressure regulator can be adjusted, but this is the job of the utility. On a low pressure service, the utility should be contacted after you have checked the sizing and loss of your supply piping run for your connected load.
I used to go to that college, smart people there. Anyway, is there a reason I get a high pitched squeal when it is running? Seems like it only does that when it is super cold outside.
The flame lowers and the boiler is down fired, putting out less heating BTU... The mixture air/fuel ratio may also be affected and should be adjusted using the proper analyzer if desired. The firing rate should not be modified unless approved by the burner manufacturer.
