Have been using Mannol for years. Currently running LL-04 5w30 in my 400 BHP BMW 335d. Its done 190,000 miles and has been on Mannol for the last 70,000. Driven hard, no problems at all, I'd say that's a pretty good testament to its quality.
I use mannol on our 3 cars. a4,a6,fabia 7715 504/507. Top oil. I usually drop the oil after 8000k. I buy the 20 litre drums. Great price and like someone said the drum it comes in is high quality. Perfect for the waste that comes out. Highly recommended. The 2002 a6 has done over 433000 kms. No signs of any wear on camshaft. Another key like someone else said is high quality filters, I use Mann on all our cars
SCT, who own the Mannol label, have a video of the blending plant on here. The premises is in Lithuania and a number of years ago SCT purchased and refurbed the site. Mannol is one of several engine oil brands SCT own.
Thanks Mark for good video. I used Mannol Longlife 504/507 in my wife's Audi TT last year as it was correct spec. I hate being ripped off with Brand names, when you know they may well have all come from the same source. Car has run with no difference to previous oil (Quantum Longlife) except I recently had mayo stuff around filler cap & bottom of dipstick, but this is no doubt condensation over the cold months, with very little use as she has been working from home in Covid.
Yes bud that's coffee as we call it A sigh if loads of head gone but your right Just moisture when cold in small amounts It's good you like me don't like being over charged for a name Top man you take care
Mannol do a many oils specifically tailored to meet the ever changing requirements so for example the most up to date spec for my old Rover diesel is BMW LL-04 for which do a selection of oils suitable for the Uk climate from 0w-40 to 10w-40. The first thing that struck me as a good sign was the quality of the packaging -- the plastic container was much thicker than most other brands. I always use a fully synthetic and have been using these oils since they first appeared on the UK market and have been very impressed as they appear to keep the engine internals very clean. Last oil change at the start of lockdown I switched to their Energy PD 5w-40. With an MOT coming soon I have also been using some of their diesel additives.
Mannol DP 5w40 unfortunately is not a synthetic oil. It's actually a big scam of all oil brands. So far only Germany and Japan banned using a word "synthetic" on bottles if the oil base isn't 100% made of PAO and Esters (IV & V group). Mannol DP is made of 48% CAS 74869-22-0 and 46% of CAS 64742-54-7, which both are hidden name of HC mineral oils of III group. Is it bad oil? Definitely not, it does its job, but if you would like to buy a REAL good synthetic oil for diesel I'd recommend Ravenol VMP 5w30, which costs 110£ for 8l.. is it worth? Idk, my car has 140k miles on the clock, so maybe it's better to buy a barrel of mannol for 3x less and add some Archoil AR9100 and change it more frequently. Greetings
I run a couple of taxi on Mannol 7715 oil which meets VW 504/507 spec. 64 plate Superb and a 68 plate Octavia, I have serviced both since new and have only ever used Mannol, one has almost 300000 miles on it and it's never had the cam cover off. The 68 plate has just over 120000 miles on it and both are running sweet. Oil is changed every 8000 miles. I don't buy into this extended oil life nonsense either. I have changed too many turbos on other taxis were the owners think its acceptable to leave 15k to 20k between changes. Something else I'm seeing now is the small toothed rubber belt in the sump is starting to deteriorate on these engines with extended oil change intervals. I deal with a lot of high mileage cars and use mannol products daily, if you change your oil regularly and use good quality filters, it will look after your engine.
Hi mate, I'm the same I use the mannol VW spec (507) on my 2016 2 lt diesel superb which I have been servicing myself since it went out of warranty and it's now on 96k and running perfectly and I also service my wife's 2008 2.5 lt diesel ford ranger using mannol ford spec (913b) oil and again it's running perfectly on 100k miles. In my opinion it's more important to buy spec not brand. If it meets the spec then it's a goer as far as I'm concerned.
Mannol's 7715 OEM blend has VW approval. The letter confirming approval is posted online and I've yet to read a bad comment about 7715. By the way, a good oil filter is just as important. I use Mann brand because its OE for the cars we have and that includes Korean cars.
I have been using Mannol oils fior a while, not had any issues. However I do believe that most manufacturers service intervals are far too long, so the oil usually gets changed every 6000 miles instead. I don't like those oil extractors, they always leave some dirty oil behind, although they are useful for removing slight overfills...
I would have agreed with you years ago but what I’ve found is some drain plugs are slightly raised in the sump…so sometimes the vacuum pipe through the dipstick hole will drain more…
Engine oil has certification from manufacturer and international standard. Anything approved they're all good. API ISLAC VI etc, are real deal. They are all the same, just brand cost. So, yes Mannol is as good as Mobil 1 or castrol with same certification
@@mullahosk585 not exactly, that's how standard and certification works. No need to argue about the brand preference if it meets the certification. Mannol with longlife III or IV certification is better than Mobil 1 without longlife III certification, because it does not have enough stability and additive to meet it.
@@rondhole That's interesting. I might give Mannol another chance. Last time I added it there was no differencr to the car. Same with other cheap brands. But when I added Mobil super 3000 thee was an immediate difference. It was like I was driving a different car. That's when I realised how important the oil was
@@rondhole Have you tried Smith Allan, Pemco or Granville engine oil? They are about a third of the price of the branded oils. I would love so see these cheap oils compared
@@mullahosk585 I used full synthetic Walmart OIl and it was made by Quaker states and works well for decades. It depends on the certification and rating. Mobil super 3000 is cheap oil and works fine for 3000 miles. Old engines are sensitive with thinner oil like 0w20 and they usually take 5w30 or 10w40. If you have the money just get 0w40, they are all full synthetic and do the best for older car and can hold for 1 year or 15k miles. Newer cars with 0w16 really needs 0w16 because of variable speed oil pump that adjust the pressure electronically.
I bought that exact mannol you got to service the wife's Hyundai i20, and after she drove to work the next day, the car immediately felt better running. First time i done an oil change, so I don't know how good the oil quality from the garages has been, but to me Mannol 5w-30 is a good product and will be using it again.
As for my bikes, I only ever use ester based oil, but you need to make sure the engine is in perfect working order as no oil will fix an engine and esters will find the faults. They don't contain particular additives like other oils to thicken up under pressure. It is kinetic viscosity vs dynamic viscosity. Big key is if you have flat tappets or rod/roller tappets. Not to mention the madness in piston design as an A5/B5 oil is needed critically for high performance low viscosity piston designed engines. The past 30 years of engine design and oil types has got complex due to regulation on fuel economy and emissions.
it does come down to personal and budget for most , but like you i only use top stuff listed for my bikes but cars and 125cc peds etc all good and still running in them well bud
Hi Mark, I have and still do own lots of Audi's. Yes I'm an Audi fan boy...... Specs for the oil should be VW 502.00 for standard 10,000 1 year intervals and VW 504.00 for variable computer timed service intervals. My cars are always new, so have to go to Audi for the servicing really, but I always take my own oil. I can buy it at about £40. Audi charge around £120 just for the oil. As long as it has their VW spec on the can they will fit it. They ain't happy about it, but have no choice. Keep up the good work. Love to see Audi video's.
I've been driving for 100 000km with Mannol Energy COMBI LL 5w30 - no issues at all. W204 C220 CDI - twinturbo diesel engine, we know that it puts a lot of stress on the oil and still it performs great.
Top man this is good to hear, I've had a few saying its rubbish but none of them can back up there bollocks info as prob still at home in there mums house pmsl Take care bud
I've used most of there range and very happy so far , a few have said its not good with no real information but they don't think so More like they just don't think lol Thanks bud
Just switched to Mannol for my Mazda6 2.2D. I found that their 5W-30 C3 oil is on the approved list for Mercedes Benz. For the cost, I can change the oil myself every 5-6K miles. I may need to try that pump you showed. I think dry, the Mazda 6 takes 6L, 5.1L when drained with filter change, 4.8l when drain without filter change.
I've put in the 5-40w mannol extreme in my astra after I found it needed an oil change. I've had no problems and done 6k miles. Did the oil filter also. I have the flush also but didn't put it in. As I felt a little paranoid as I use a jack on one side of the car which made the car slightly higher on one side. And I didn't want to risk having some left in. But next time will make sure it done on a level and run it through next time.
Hi Mark. Followed your videos for years now. I'm a scooter nut like you! Respect. Keep it up. Mannol Oil is fine. I use it in our car, bikes and petrol mowers. No issues, all good. Stay well. Matt
Mannol oil is made in Lithuania in its own refinery. Fanfaro is also its sister brand. This oil is fantastic, been using for a while. If the spec is correct for you engine then this make of oil will do just fine. Commonly used in Germany, and i bet at some OEM dealers in this country too.
Mannol energy combi LL 5w30 Is very good oil,and cheep oil. (German Quality,bussines plan and marketing- made by Lithuania! SCT lubricants have several Brands:Fanfaro,Pemco,Champioil And Mannol) For VW 504/507.00 approval spec.is best-bye(Quality-price) With good oil filter's like Mann Hummel ot Hengst, Mahle, Knecht, Purflux Is TOP !!! Normal servis change to 15000km or 1 year, I used that oil! There is really no need to buy other more expensive brands when this oil has the official approval of VW, Mercedes, Porsche,BMW...atc. No problem! Cheers!
I run a VW Transporter T5 and it needs regular oil top ups I bought the Mannol 507 synthetic long life it’s £16 / 5L compared to £44 for Halfords own brand.
Fantastic! Thanks! I saw Mannol 10w 40 semi synthetic half price on eBay (£16) same spec as previous oil which was Granville and has doubled in price in 2 years. This is for Mazda Bongo 2.5 TD 🚐 Cheers again! 🎸🎶☀️
I’ve just started using Fanfaro oil for my Peugeot partner and I think it’s fine. Doesn’t really matter too much with 185,000 on the clock I guess. I believe that Fanfaro is made by the same company so I’m sold!
used over 200L of mannol/pemco 350 5w30 LL and 10w40 for tractors and OLD toyota. No problems on any vehicle from toyota/hyundai/audi/vw/Peugeot diesel and petrol. Even stopped burning oil in a diesel hyundai after 2-3 oil changes with 5w30
Mannol in motorcycles: I've used Mannol Defender 10W-40 in my '03 R6 for over 15.000km, and believe me when I say I ride the bike like I stole it. It's taken all the abuse I've given it (of course I let it run warm before revving it up), like neutral revving to redline (15.5k rpm) for kicks and prolonged heavy loads on the autobahn at the maximum speed it can handle. Since it's an older bike I don't use the cleaner, just the occasional oil-change whenever the oil is beginning to turn dark. Would I use it in everything else? I already was and have been doing that for over 5 years including vehicles from relatives. Not one problem as long as you select the right grade and it meets/exceeds the factory specs.
I have an Audi A4 2ltr 190bhp 2017 and have used this Mannol 5w30. So far so good, the only thing I was told that is won't protect your engine like Castrol will.
Ok bud will do Mini sold for the f150 ,video on here and got the audi a4 for work Sold audi S1 video on here and got the wife a Q2 Thats it lol and just waiting for another bike project what ever that will be Thanks for watching bud Stay safe
Never use an engine flush on modern engines. All the hydraulic bits have their own filters on them and an engine flush can release the gunk the block up the internal filter gauses and slowly kill the engine. Just use a good oil with a good detergent and make sure your thermostat is working at the right temperature. Just use a cheap oil for 300-500 miles and drain it before using a good oil that's the best way to clean your engine. I always shine a torch down the oil filing hole if it looks golden yellow on the aluminium its all good if it looks stained black you have problems mostly bad owner care or failed thermostat
Great video Mark❗️Here in Texas I have always used the Mobile 1 Synthetic for my Truck and the Wife’s Car 🚗 and it’s always done a great job. For my Motorcycle, Motorbike, Motor-scooters, Mopeds, 🛵and Outboard Motorboats 🚤 I ALWAYS USE THE MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED OILS. It just gives me piece of mind and I’ve never lost an motor yet❗️Stay safe and say hi to thee GIRLS.❗️👍✅🤗
ive been the same with oils but thought i'd give it a go and watched a few videos of these oils and most are made by only a few companies so big names make a few oil bands to keep the market from there competitors, but lets see how it goes mike I will upload a video on the car and all the bits i'm going to do to it as always mike take care bud and big thanks for watching my videos
My Ktm 390 was burning quite a lot of Mobil 1 Racing 4t 15w50, much less oil use since switchihg to Mannol Powerbike 15w50, just as smooth, maybe a touch lower MPG.
Hi Mark , my daughter has a Mini Cooper R50 53 Reg , not the Cooper S. It needs a oil change soon, would that Mannol Energy 5w 30 be ok , as I agree some of the oils are costing way to much. Also its a German Product so should be sound. Many thanks for any feed back. Kim . PS Also thinking of getting the manual gearbox oil as the Mini is on 110,000 and I don't know if it's ever been changed.
All products so far I used have been as good as top brand in my opinion I've not used them in high performance bikes But all my cars with no issues at all So go for it bud And the gear box change is a good idea on the minis Take care bud
I got my Mannol Syn. API/SN 5w30 20lt. jug for €3,5 a liter from Amizon. Just as good as any Brand Name oils. There are no bad oils on the market, there are no CHEAP OILS! as they all are API / ILSAC rated. There are "Inexpenceive Oils" and there are "Over Priced oils"!
I have also become a big user of Mannol products. Many people Have never heard of them or just say you pay for what you get etc but mannol have been around for a long time and have a great selection of specific products,cannot fault them or the brand.
Long time Castrol user here and had the chance to get Mannol for free so I tried it in one of my "worker" BMW (E39 R6). Engine oil LL-04 no change in performance or anything. ATF no change in shifting behavior or anything else. However the lower price might be somewhere visible - mileage you can tear down before you are due to a change. Some people tend to ballpark the engine oil around 8000 miles (about 12 000km) and no more which is fairly okay given the price but the Castrol LL-04 can keep up to 9500 miles (about 15 000km) before a change is due. Depending on your driving habbits even more (like not pushing it too hard lots of times etc). But if you can develop a smell radar in your nose and a noise radar in your ear then you can tell it is due without any data. Oil that is due smells funny (bad) and the engine will be a bit more noisy in comparison to a fresh fill (more diesel like sound and a bit louder as the oil cannot damp the noise so well anymore). This "ear radar" will also assist you to know you are getting low on oil without even reading the dipstick. If it goes a tad bit more noisy then you are most likely up for a top up :) With worsening oil you may also get a bit worse fuel consumption which is also one of many indicators you are due. Generally speaking - the oil market is quite complicated but in this segment you get what you pay for. Wanna hold up changes for a longer time? Pay a bit more. Wanna get the best deal? Pay less and to the changes more frequently. In the end it does not matter that much because you either pay less and change sooner or pay more and change later. The mileage/cost you get out of the oils will be basically the same...but I tend to to use the bit more expensive oil AND keep changes reasonable. Not too soon like some crazy fan bois lecture others how they change oil after each drive but also not maxing out the lifespan too much. Just about right as I can tell by sound and smell for one reason only - internal parts that can get clogged up with old oil. Especially lifters. If you (or anyone else) have no idea then look up lifter fix on RU-vid to see how they work. It is very interesting :) Depending on your engine type you may have other sensitive parts like Vanos and what not that is also sensitve to oil quality.
Ive used mannol before, its alot cheaper and easier to get then say motul , i used mannol 2T , on a 49cc ported cylinder, worked fine, no issues to report, but the weird thing is that mannol and motul oil, (2t) have very similar consistency and colour 🤔
I bought 20ltr of the blue mannol 5w 30 for about £28 i think with a discount included right bargain can service car many times over. So far so good will continue to use it
Mannol is a german oil brand and I am using it since day one. Its by far the best value oil money can buy. I used it in 2x 300k cars and a 200k car. I use all other products motor oil flush as well as injector cleaner from that brand. There are a lot of magazines that tested all kinds of oil brands. Mannol always came out in the top... Motor flush by the way should only be used when you know the car. If you buy a car from a granny that drove around 100k with no oil change or history whatsoever. The chance you're killing the motor is pretty high. When a cleaner like that cleans sludge , dirt and deposits that were sitting for ages in the engine thats a death shock. I would rather change the oil drive it for 5k make an oil change again drive it for 5k and then use a cleaner. The cost of chaning the oil more often is marginal compared to have to rebuild an engine.
Hello Mark, another good video 👍 I do like Mannol because they have a good variety and are reasonably priced. I have some Mannol stuff as well, brake cleaner, silicone spray and coolant 😁 I am not an expert but I would definetely recommend it 👏👏👏 I forgot to mention on earlier comments, how many number plates do you have in your garage? 😱😱😱 Looks like it is a fair bit and it looks cool I have to say 👏👏👏 by the way there is always someone that is going to moan at some point about something you do or you don't 😂😂😂 take it easy m8, Happy Easter 🥚
I have more but no where to put them , I used to buy new smaller plates for all my bikes. Yes I agree I always get them that love or hate me ! But thanks for watching bud So far yes they do a lot of products and am getting my way through them Service video coming up them Stay safe too bud
I drive a skoda superb with 2lt VW engine and it quotes castrol edge professional long life. Also says to be sure to use the VW spec as well. I took a chance with Mannol same spec and even a letter of approval from VW on line. The Mannol even says its specifically for my engine and spec. It even says its the longlife version. Is it any good? Well tbh I have noticed no difference whatsoever. I had castrol Edge and now run Mannol. I have notice no difference whatsoever. Actually I lie. Castrol would be £50 whereas Mannol was £15 if you buy in bulk off ebay. So there is a difference....
It’s in my ‘99 suzuki swift with higher milage and lots of highway driving. The oil (Classic 10w-40) seems to be good choice, the engine isn’t doing any weird metalic noises, doesn’t smoke, the engine doesn’t get too hot. It’s a semi/part synthetic oil which is a middle ground for both quality and price. When I check the oil it seems quite clean. I had to keep adding some oil over time due to one of the seals gone too old, but will be changed soon... So I think I will stick to mannol oil for the next oil change. Maybe defender or classic 10w-40.
Do not change SAE cause of high mileage always use what engine manufacture says if they say let’s say 5w30 use 5w30 no matter how old is car or how many kkm did
@@michalwarmbier4113 thank you for your comment. I agree on your point, I switched to a 5w-40 synthetic (mannol extreme) as I have read this protects the engine better, but flows faster in the cold. It seems to be doing its job well so far. I live in central Europe, and the ~35 Celsius heat in summer times and winters can be cold as -20. The user manual only recomends the 5/10w-30. You are right. But is it safe in such hot summers? Here many people recommend the 10w-40 viscosity for older modern engines right away. I'm about to try the mannol Elite, maybe Shell helix or a 5w-30. I will ask my mechanics for his thoughts too.
Going to try Mannol 7701 in my 2016 Range Rover with the L494 diesel engine. It's almost impossible to get Castrol with LR Jag spec oil In the US, seems the right oils are in the EU. Dealer is too expensive, obviously. Always use Mann filters. Will do an oil analysis and post findings. 1/4 the price from dealer for just the Castrol oil.
@@marksavage These Range Rover TD6 diesel engines are apparently Ford/Puegot Industrial division made engines. I'll be sending off the original Castrol specs oil, then use this Mannon oil, then send it off. Very curious how it tests, since I have 2 of these vehicles with same engine. Since it's so hard to get the right all here in the US, hopefully my findings will help others that have them.
Hi Mark, would love to see the A4. Got an A3 myself but never used that oil in any of my cars in the past, just stuck to the bigger brands rightly or wrongly. As for the flush, there are a lot of solutions out there and I've recently tried one from Halfords but didn't take the sump off or open the block so can't really tell if it worked as intended but i think you're supposed to use them on every oil change as opposed to once in a blue moon? Apart from that I've had no complaints. Best of luck with your toe, ouch lol...
To be honest I used it in about 10 motors now without any issues If its warm the oil with warm and thin like it should as in the engine plus thick oil as you might think But stick to what you think is right bud I alway use to brand oil in my bikes
Using Mannol 5w30 Formula JP in my Honda Accord 2.4 and S2000. Cars run great, no difference when i was using Castrol or Motul or any other expensive brands. Really 0 difference.
Never do motor flush, it is not good to engine because it is like kerosene, not enough lubrication unless you have sludge problems in older VW engines that sludging.
@@michalwarmbier4113 Only Stubborn ignorance think motor need flush like toilet. Modern engine oil has tons off additives and best detergent without taking high wear. You may need motor flush for sticky piston rings (extended oil change intervals with low quality oil) or sludge. You put extreme unnecessary wear by using strong solvent on engines. It is like adding 50k miles in perfectly running engine.
@@rondhole many times i was flushing engines with oil mixed with diesel and saved engine. Engine was running on idle for 30min and again and again until I flushed clean oil with diesel. I took bottom down sump was clean I checked crank shaft bering shells and no problems at all normal use like for mileage
@@michalwarmbier4113 You comparing things without a reference point. The ground zero is a good running engine with a good regular engine oil change. Flushing is stupid, unnecessary things like Lobotomi. But yes, you may need surgery if getting brain tumor and engine flush may be necessary but only 1 in a billion case.
hi ya matey found it it works but only one side of idicators work ive checked and replaced all bulbs but still only left work so stumped any idea oh and happy easter
@@dentoneverett2335 I've had this and it turned out to be the switch!! A spider had got in and was between the points lol Take off switch and clean wd40 , be careful of any springs If not it would be earths Try power straight to the bulbs to test
To be fair and many who have used it and commented its good oil to use bud and your motor with them miles on it as it made it so far can't see why it wouldn't keep going for another 100k
alright bro thnx for your reply. Yesterday i put 5w40 extreme for the first time. will give a review at next oil change and i live in a place where it's extremely hot in summers.
its often under the clocks or under the seat bucker or either side of the rear panels , however on some mopeds its in with the main clocks and you would have to replace them ! try tracing the wirers back bud
@@marksavage mark , can u please advise on this confusion I have , recommended oil spec according to nissan is a5/b5 , but when I search in opie oils or Halfords they always recommend c4 or c3 spec , so which one should I follow 🙂
@@ringroaddeyyam6716 that's hard as I would always try and use the spec nissan recommend but here in the UK we don't always spec the same oils This is why they say they its the same and should be fine Not sure if you engine ran lumpy it was just the oil and you may have other issues
It's not about the price but why pay more for over priced oil when it's the same quality? Just to pay shell's profits which already were at 8 billion BP 7 billion etc I've used mannol on a lot of cars and it's been fine and outside the UK they have been using it for years Ok ,ok , on my sports and wife's car I did use the one from GSF As I was there and to be fair there wasn't a lot in the price now the world has gone to pot lol
It's more like £40+ with my car 0w20......I would have said the same a while back but a mechanic friend has by using this stuff for years with no problems. It's also not that cheap locally to me. It's double the internet price for Mannol in my local motor factors.
What makes you say this, I've had a lot of good reviews and technical information regarding this What's you expert review and techical expertise with oils and engines etc
@@marksavage bobistheoilguy forums. UOA analysis shows the oil breaks down out of grade very quickly and then offers less protection. total base number is lower too. its cheaper for a reason.
@@slybunda Where you see the TbN is lower? This is Mannol 0w 40 data sheet: CharacteristicsMethodUnitValue Density at 15°CD 1298kg/m³ 842 Flash point COCD 92 °C224 Pour pointD 97 °C- 50 SAE-class 0W-40 TBND 2896gKOH/kg 10,16 Viscosity at -35°CD 5293CP 6200 Viscosity at 100°CD 445CSt 12,55 Viscosity at 40°CD 445CSt 68,2 Viscosity indexD 2270 185
@@ugabuga1389 what they put on the sheet is not the same as oil analysis results. hardly any actual approvals from car manufacturers for this oil, its just "meets the requirements of" written for most of its specs.
@@slybunda i'm not speaking only by sheet, i'm using it too. And i change it every 20k km, not every 5, 6k and the car is going strong, not one single problem.
