*Not only seeing something taken apart. But more importantly, to me, is your troubleshooting process for determining the cause. Speaking for myself, with limited electronics repair knowledge, I can troubleshoot, but not often efficiently or accurately. :) Thanks!
Make sure to tip the man! The amount of money I've not only saved but made by being able to repair and flip electronics has been staggering. I didn't realize it until I got the fucking tax bill!
I have a funny story about the Marantz I got in the garbage that is a little newer than this. It was completely dead, no power. It had a tag on it from a repair shop. Apparently there was a TSB that Marantz released for a diode going bad in the power supply. The fix was simply to clip out the diode and replace it with a jumper. It went to a Marantz authorized service center for that repair. I took it apart to check it out, and it turns out that the shop reassembled it incorrectly, and one of the pin headers that connect the boards together was off by 1 pin. I put it back together, works perfect.
I love my Harmon/Kardon AVR-50. I bought it from Fry's in Silicon Valley back in the summer of 1997. It was a refurbished unit manufactured in 1994 or 1995. Still works perfectly to this very day. I have never opened it. Finally, after 24 years, the display is slightly dim but still acceptable. This unit bears a striking similarity.
I've got a pioneer sa-9800 from 1980 and it still works beautifully. 25 years used only with headphones. The rest by myself. It's a truly magical amplifier. 4 yes four 15000uF power capacitors and it's a dual mono block design. With original box
I fixed my in-laws late 90's Sony (2- channel) reciever last winter. Discrete components on the power amplifiers, removable bottom. I fixed it (bad speaker protection relay) , and told them they needed to hang onto it, because they are not built like that any more. Unfortunately, it suffers from 2 general deficiencies: solder joints have not enough solder, and some of the intermediate power transistors are driven really hard, and get hot enough to roast the board (at least need bigger heatsinks) Still working a year later, though
@@DrewskisBrews That is the weak link of Sony power amplifiers of that vintage. The driver transistors get so hot that they eventually work themselves loose from the board and this results in sudden catastrophic failure. I speak from experience. They desolder themselves from the board. Best thing you can do is reflow the solder and add a little bit of solder, and then keep an eye on it. Maybe you can fit small clip on heat sinks, but be careful you don't short anything out.
@@69eddieD I did reflow them. I wanted to add heatsinks, but the transistor case style requires a small clip-on type, and I couldn't find any in my collection
@@bryanbergman4241 are you [potentially] buying it, or checking it out for the owner, or some other buyer? I don't have any experience with these, but the same kind of things always apply, and you can tell a lot without even using test equipment. Being able connect speakers, or headphones if you have no other options is kind of a must. Scratchy/noisy controls are pretty common on just about anything, depending on what kind of use and environment it has seen.
great video, whether they can be repaired or not it is still a great learning and enjoyable experience for us, love the videos keep them coming. Regards from Bonnie Scotland
My favorite receiver is one I built myself as a kit. It is a Heathkit AR-1500 that cost me about $400 (1973 money) back then. It took me 10 evenings to build it, taking my time. It was designed such that the builder could do basic diagnostic trouble shooting using test leads and the actual signal strength meter, built in to the receiver. Basically, you compare meter readings on multiple test points on the various circuit boards, comparing your results to those in the assembly manual. The set worked perfectly since day one. 90 watts, rms per channel, they claim. Sounds superb. Only maintenance was to clean out dust every 10 years. If you can find one of these beasts on eBay, and it was not abused, get it. It will not disappoint!
Good morning 12voltvids I am very surprised at his skill in finding faults and repairing them very efficiently, I downloaded many of his videos, and I was amazed at the memory he has in inserting all the pieces in their place without advancing anything, including screws. His videos are very descriptive although I don't understand anything about English, I just talk about the video part by themselves. He is also very meticulous in showing all the various steps of dismantling and editing, despite electronics I do not understand much, indeed nothing, but it fascinates me to see his painstaking work. Congratulations on everything and you always keep it that way.
I have a dead pioneer multichannel receiver that has power all over the connections, stand by lights up, but will never turn on. Technician told me it has an issue with the microprocessor, and that's where the road ends for most of these crappy digital receivers... Thanks for the video, please keep sharing even if it's not a succesfull fix... Thanks!
Regi: months ago i bought a Pioneer VSX450; i thought i could repair it in 5 minutes. But the same crap as in the vid: not service-friendly. At least on the Marantz there are connectors: on the Pioneer is everything soldered. And at the end i did more damage: end of the story, like 12voltvids says: time to move on but i will never buy something defective anymore with a display, or younger then the eighties, is not worth repairing for a hobbyist like me.
agreed - I use a Denon AVR 3805 (from 2005 no HDMI) for my media room and works great and 2 Denon DRA825 and 1 Denon DRA 545 stereo units for the remaining speakers. They all sound great and I enjoy your channel ! I have a few older Denon cd players in use because of your older fixes
When I last repaired these similar units in 2001, these failed out of the box. I went to the regulator clusters and resoldered the connections as some of these failures were visible. That usually cured the problem. It had to do with the wave soldering problems, decreased QC on the factory floors and going to China. The regulators were heat-sinked and were prone to cold solder joints if these boards went through the wave solder process too quickly. The clocks on the micros had RC, resonator or quartz crystals attached to them. Some of these micros had a clock enable pin on them. Certain power supply failures would disable the clock on some of these.
That 'motherboard' design reminds me of the Southwest Technical Products Preamp (1975). They employed Molex power connectors for signal and power to the daughter boards! The daughter boards were op-amps built with discrete transistors.
I’m all for removable bottom covers. The only thing bad about them is that it’s possible to loose them if a repair drags on, possibly getting passed around to multiple techs, even a large cover can get lost. In my early 20s, when they started making unit without removable bottom covers; I got so frustrated with one that I took the dremel tool and cut the bottom. The shop I fixed the unit for wasn’t pleased, but they still had me fix stuff for them. What is so costly about a few extra screws, or even a cutout where I can add my own screws after a repair (?) I enjoy you videos, thank you.
I showed it mainly to show where a problem area is, those regulators. Likely connections on the regulators failed and caused voltage surge that popped the CPU.
I once ...1978.... paid a buttload of money for a Marantz 4400.Coulda bought a car. The thing was AWESOME. Hooked up to pair of Klipsch Heresy speaks. A whole can of Coca Cola was poured in it. Knocked out the AM section. The rest lived. Superscope did not have time to kill Marantz yet
Audio equipment without removable bottom panels is really a pain to work on... I had the entry-level stereo only version of this series of Marantz receivers. Not very good. Lots of noise in the phono preamp and the tuner was very insensitive so I could never get good reception of FM stations. A few years after I got it the rotary encoder for the volume control went bad. Thankfully I was able to fix that. I ended up selling the receiver.
I'm glad I found your channel. Its not only interesting but its informative. I never repaired anything in my life. But its good to watch just in case I get a hold of something I actually want to keep.Like a S-VHS VCR or a Minidisk deck ( which I already have,Still working) . You have a subscriber for life.
There are a few of us still working on electronics Many work only on the vintage stuff because it is easier to work on. Most of the modern stuff is very difficult if not impossible to work on these days.
This is why I hate working on most consumer electronics and try to stick with industrial stuff when I can.. Most customers don't know or understand how a solid half hour can easily be burned up just by disassembly and reassembly long before any actual work is completed on the unit.
I've never seen a repair job yet where the customer told the tech that money was no object:I repaired TVs for years until 1990.They wanted a working TV for next to nothing.More like a set that worked like new for around $10 or less.I did it off and on for about twenty years.
I have a lux a3400 preamp that will be costing the owner a pretty penny. I am working on that now, and it started it's life in 1973 as a kit that looks like a jr high school student assembled as his first project. Wait for it, you will get a good laugh. You won't laugh when I tell you the guy paid almost a grand for this piece of junk that he will be paying me dearly to fix.
That was an honest to goodness video I'm glad you called it as you sees it GOOD ON YOU some things are not worth saving PS I too own Harmon Kardon and I fixed mine it was the circuit in behind the volume knob I JUST GOT LUCKY
I had a Onkyo surround sound receiver with a BGA main chip with no heat sink on it. After a few years (warranty expired) the solder cracked and the receiver went intermittent. I re flowed the solder with a heat gun and glued a heat sink to the chip. 2 years later it's still working. They must have saved 15 cents not installing that heat sink.
Back in the day, anything with a Marantz logo had a construction style that resembled Mil-Spec quality. They maintained this into the early 1970s, then fell into the "manufacture cheap", screw serviceability that the majority of companies do today. An excellent era has ended with very few companies making their equipment serviceable.
Yep. Gotta know when to walk away. I have seen weird instances on these newer microprocessor software controlled monstrosities where the CPU is still good, but a glitch triggered the internal flash erase. and poof. braindead. For my own learning curiosity, I did some differential power analysis on the CPU to see if it was looking at and running any instructions, it would sit in an infinite loop and halt, as if the FLASH is corrupt or blank. I had a JVC one time that the ROM had suffered some sort of bitrot internally, I could use the wet finger trick and "clock glitch" the CPU and it would run again! until the next reboot/power cycle.
surprised its not good the transformer is big I just bought 2 amps from ebay lucky they work OK but they are from 2011 they are pioneer sc-lx73 & yamaha rx-v2065 the yamaha rx-v2065 runs the coolest which I think is the one will have to use when the room gets to hot.
Once over, Marantz did some very nice gear. Still have a CD 63 mk2 KI signature and besides a new laser it has been a fantastic CD player. Newer stuff far less impressive. They do not build units to be worked on, they do not want you to work on it, they want you to buy a new one. Poor design but then that could apply to any number of modern electronic devices.
I've lost interest in surround sound systems. I bought an RCA Dolby Digital system that had a DVD player in it some years back, and the thing only worked for one year. I went back to using the RCA integrated stereo amplifier that I've had since the early 2000s. I am still using that. The stupid chips they put in these complex electronics aren't worth dirt!
This is why I use separates for multi-channel. Get good serviceable amps then buy throw away processors with the required channel count and outputs. Edit: Looked up the SR5300.... 2003 line-up, I'd say he got his monies worth from the device.
On some of the Onkyo units, there is a manufacturers extended warranty as the result of a settlement Onkyo reached several years ago. Not sure if it's still in force or not.
I had an old Marantz quadrophonic receiver I blew a power transistor in. The way it was put together I just scrapped the whole unit for parts. Those transistors were buried right in the middle of it. It wasn't a great stereo in the first place.
hello brother, I have an issue on a technics svi 3205 , 4.2 millivolts on one channel, all the parts are hopefully okay , what do I do now to get rid of the 4.2 millivolts, and the sound is also a bit distorted at high volume
You would think that a brand like Marantz would let there equipment to be much more easily be serviceable. I think it's a shame they don't even find the 'budget' to install a hatch on the bottom of the unit... :-/ anyway, nice video! I learn a lot from you! :-)
Dave id like to see all your videos of stuff that you tried to fix and didn't post ! all though you wouldn't have many....lol I think we all learn from things you fix and even if you cant fix be it cost to a customer or maybe its not worth fixing its all good . thank you keep em coming :))
As you stated at the start of the video, you were under limits from the owner of this thing. Had he been more generous though I would have tried new components in that clock circuit. I have seen crystals go flaky about starting up and the caps that usually are on both legs sometimes go bad in unusual ways--neither shorting or going open (the Q degrading I think). Many years ago I used to repair Atari home game consoles and this problem would sometimes occur with their CPU clocks. The fix was to replace the caps on the xtal with different types which were polystyrene if memory serves.
Hi, I was just wondering what role does that big copper plate have? (The one that is around the main transformer) Is it shielding from EMI or something else?
@@evertdewit4037 And by the way, listening to music on an av amp is the worst thing you can do.
5 лет назад
All these types of receivers are interchangeable garbage.. what happened to the industry? They all look slick on the outside but so many issues - piles of these in the recycling all the time and they have real bad sound quality when doing normal 2 channel. At least in my experience, there are probably standouts. I notice Sony Receivers changed for the worse around 1993ish. They were pretty cool before that, very complex though. Hahah - and right when I'm typinig this you say @7:20 ! Good point about not being able to open from the bottom, first time I saw that I smashed the thing on the ground and walked away from it.
If you are talking about the microcontroller than yes it is replaceable but no point just buying the physical chip as it would not have the firmware without which it’s pretty much useless.
When you had the board upside down re-soldering the power converters look to the right at the giant ark path that is shorting to circuits together bet that is the problem can be seen at 11:35
I have watched that several times, that's the lighting from where he presses down on the board & moving his hand shows a little light right there, or that is what it looks like to me.
I spotted this one too. Pretty damned obvious. Why he chose not to look there is beyond me. There’s a good chance it’s spiked a few other more sensitive components though so this thing was probably going to be toast anyhow. Had an old Technics receiver do pretty much the same. Took out the processor so became bin fodder.
5 лет назад
Can I request a video about what kind of scope to buy in today's market that is fully functional, not too expensive, but a good quality unit mid range ?
@@WorkinDuck hi I do not think my iron has 60 watt full power (as rated). because it is non brand chinese $5 crap. I should upgrade it with a reputable brand
Just wondering if you still have the amp. I am looking for the 2 audio DACs for a SR-5200 amp (CS4228A and CS4391) and am wondering if this amp may have them. If it does what would the cost of parts and shipping to Calgary?
I loved the Marantz I had in the seventies. Such great sound. I guess that chip would've cost a pretty penny plus the trouble of installing it. Do you keep the Unit for parts or do you send it to salvage?
Hello. I admire your patience. Let me ask you, I have Marantz SR73, it becomes mute on its own for a few seconds. All control is working it is just that no sound is coming out of the speakers. Sometimes after a few seconds sounds come back, and sometimes it doesn't until the next day. Where should I start looking?
Not surprised standby power checked out OK. If the standby xfmr has survived, the rest of the standby ckt is unlikely to have gotten damaged. There's a 25V rated filter cap and a 7806, and I doubt normal unregulated is more than 10-11 V. (Xfmr is shared with Denon AVR1603, D&M at work right there.) Now let me look at how the power on is supposed to work. No xtal action could mean (a) no power (AVDD, IC107 pin 54), (b) IC stuck in reset, or (c) a duff chip. I'd swap out C149 (4.7µ) in the reset circuit for the heck of it. It's worth a try. These are not bad little units when they do work, at least they've got some decently low noise floor. H/Ks were stuck with really hissy PGAs for way longer than they should have been.
Customer had a limit on what he was prepared to pay as he had already replaced it and just wanted to sell it, so obviously he didn't want to spend a ton on it. It could be anything. Bad CPU, is one possibility. With the way these are built they are not easy to test when apart. Have to disconnect connectors to get the board out. Need extender cables to work on board out of unit.
Nice soldering...just like me, waiting for the tip to heat up with it touching the part. Yeah the surge could gave smoked any random small component or internal circuit. Time to upgrade to 4k.
Recently had a sony SS receiver. Was going into protection mode, and can probably guess what the problem was..lol. Wouldn't spend money on these if they dont atleast have HDMI switching...
I have a Marantz SR4200 (1 year older and 1 level down from this receiver) that's been used almost every single day since I bought it 17 years ago. Still works!
240v into a 110v receiver is going to take an unknown number of chips out. I used to refurbish Japanese 100v and USA 110v gear only for someone to fit a UK mains plug and wipeout the item. Old gear like this one are only worth a quick look, the time required to get to and replace parts renders them beyond economical repair.
I have had many break off and had to replace them with jacks that mount on the panel. Parts Express has great jacks. You may have to drill a hole in the panel. And you need soldering skills. But they won't break off again.
I have Marantz Sr5300 receiver. I am loooking for boards-DWP 585- CXP-740010. 160 240 CO1E or COOE. Were can I find a parts store for this receiver? Please and thank you.
Got a place that just gives me all the electronics that get donated. I keep them all if they look good. Even if they don't work. Got over 200 items. And that's just the stereo equipment. I do giveaways once a month for the stuff that's junk.
If he'd told you that he'd lost their neutral in the 1st place, would you have even bothered to work on this. I love it when customers do this kind of stuff to me, & I'm just an elevator mechanic.
I got the same Marantz at a junk store for 20$, works fine, but not like "MARANTZ" when they were good stuff. Is there some connection with Sony? I like the "fail vids", the information is important in making decisions. Someone may scrap a good unit over a blown fuse. This is about when it is OK to scrap crap, if it goes beyond fuses, connections or old caps.
I saw the title of the video and before it loaded, I prayed that it wasn't the same Marantz receiver I have... and sure enough... it pretty much is :'( mine is the 4200 model, no problems yet... but good to know what to expect
That's a mighty LONG time applying heat to those connections. What's the temperature of the tip? I use a 700 tip and wouldn't dream of holding it to a part for 5 seconds.
Had much the same issues with a Onkyo TX-DS787 and more. Such a nightmare to dismantle to work on, same PCB mass, same exact transformer. I had to physically rip wires out of connectors to dismantle it, they had run short wires into quick release connectors that take bare wires, and there was no way to get in to release the wires. When you have to replace wire and connectors just to reassemble something, it's a bad design. Having actually release the mainboard for the amplifier, I found it had quite a few burn marks where components had been running hot. Also the 4 main capacitors had gotten hot enough to cause the outer sleeve to move and distort. The good points about the DS787 ? Well you can salvage the rotary encoders, transformer, aux supply, casing, rear binding posts and ducted heatsink for other projects. The amp/preamp is complete junk, the rest is either project parts or valuable scrap metal.
Really thought you had it fixed after finding those bad connections. It seems any time I have something that is not working, I never find any bad connections.
Given that it was hit by 240V, I'd think it would be a supply cap or the regulator itself I wouldn't think it would get downstream of the regulator. I assume you checked that the output voltage was correct and no ripple. The input voltage seems a bit low for a 7805. I wonder if a rectifier diode went. The ripple is keeping the cpu reset.
i ordered a cpu for my pioneer receiver. took some chasing around. but i think its worth doing the google dance. but if they dont wanna pay want can you do, right.
Likely yes. I had a call a few years ago to a house that had the service drop damaged by a tree. Many thing in the house were blown. All the light bulbs, the furnace, and refrigerator all toast. I got a call because the internet was down. I went there and all that was wrong was the Tripp-Lite power bar had blown. Modem, PVR, ,TV and mac computer plugged into the power bar were fine. Customer was upset that power bar was blown and they had to spend 15.00 to buy a new one. My response was "Powerbar did it's job by taking the hit and blowing internal fuses"
@lee lee I have had many things saved by protected power strips. Also no need to spend hundreds on a "Monster" or other boutique brand. They are no better than the run of the mill Tripp lite or other 15-20 strips. As long as they have actual surge protection in them. The good ones have usually a red or green light that says protected. As long as that light is lit then the protection devices are working. If the protection devices, usually a series of MOVs and capacitors fails for any reason the light will go out. The power bar will still work but will provide no protection.
the customer's neutral wire went out in his house dang we had that happen not too long ago it just happened over the summer and good thing we had a ton of power stips almost all of them burnt up on the one side of the house that's all that got damaged I sure thought it killed our $10k yamaha audio system that was only 1 year old it wouldn't power up no standby light and all we just let it sit for a few hours came back and it came back on like nothing happened but that also killed out water pump it was getting weak I think that's what took out the neutral wire everytime we powered the water pump back on it would make the lights everywhere spaze the hell out good thing we was home our circuit breaker did not trip could have burnt our house down and knowing that it was a friday and i overslept by mistake maybe this was meant to be?
Main quality went down when top name japanese brands subcontracted their production to china ,especially when they all turned to switching power supplies, I'm an old retired teck and i think the audio market got its peak in the middle of the seventies and when down hill afterward ! I call them the plastic face and knob era junk !
Absolutely correct. Best audio componets were made through the 70's and into the early 80's. I have told my daughter if she ever gets rid of my Noresco / Dual stereo that's it. She is out of the will. I did a service on it here last summer when I got it. Canadian made amplifier with genuine Motorola transistors for the output. Sounds fantastic, and quality wise is very, very good, and simple. Back in the day I worked in the shop the owners hates anything made in the USA or Canada. Promoted the Japanese stuff, and brain washed customers telling them there stuff was junk. Well that "junk" is still working today and has outlasted all the crap that came after it, and will likely be making sound for another 40 years.
Should have checked the reset signal if you didn't. The processor is unlikely to have died from overvoltage, since there's a voltage regulator in front of it.
You have got to set a limit of how far down the rabbit hole you are willing to go. I have some stereo recievers from the late 70's. Truly a whole different world in terms of topology. Good luck with parts cross reference - you get lucky a few times. Almost all of it is junk now, sure some stuff is pretty good. But it is not meant to be repaired - profit vs performance ratio. The expectations of the general public are fairly low today. It is not all china's fault either.......
I would never blame China. They are just producing what we want, cheap electronics with a gillion features. The fault square falls on the consumer. They demanded cheaper products. When cheap electronics started flooding the market, and it wasn't China BTW, it was Japan, the consumer started buying these cheaper products. Cheap TVs made by Panasonic. Sold cheaper in America than in Japan. It was dumping for sure. There is a very good documentary about the downfall of the American TV industry. China is just the end product, but the fact remains is that if the consumers, back in the 70's and 80's when these products were flooding in had just said "No thank you" and continued to but RCA, Motorola, Zenith, Curtis Mathis, Admiral, and all the other domestic brands, and not allowed the cheap products to gain traction, the domestic manufacturing would probably still be done here. But we allowed this to happen. Joe consumer wants everything faster, and cheaper, and now this is exactly what we have. Cheap electronics from China. Some of their devices are actually very good.
@@12voltvids I can find zero wrong with your statements sir. But i will add to that this.Yes it was cost, and japan - Sony for one and Matsushita - panasonic. Took a loss on many things they sold just to gain market share. But..Truthfully what they offered WAS better in a few and some many ways. and one large reason for that was manufacturing - they had the metrics of the process down pat and cold. And a labor force that was lower cost, but very intelligent. Simply put they skinned our cat for us - BUT we let them do it. After a bit of time it unrecoverable.
@@johnrobinson357 Yes in many ways it was better. The Trinitron tube for example and the inline gun were brilliant. Simpler to manufacture and align. The north american manufactures were stuck making giant pieces of furniture which were nice, but costly. Japan stuck it to us for sure in the technology war. They could do it cheaper for starters, and were not afraid to take a loss in the short term. They also bought up american manufacturing plants, and started shipping in assembled chassis and doing the final assembly here to get around import embargo`s. Mitsubishi did that in Canada. The Canadian government had an embargo on Japanese electronics in t he mid 80`s. Mitsubishi wanted into the Canadian market, so they bought a Canadian manufacture, Electrohome and started selling rebadged Mitsubishi TVs and VCRs under the electrohome brand. Then they could also sell their own branded gear as well.. There are documentaries on youtube about this, as I have watched them. It is sad that we let our electronics industry go like this but as they say, hind sight is 20-20.
Hello, nice job! That system looks like most computerized amps with surround sound issued since the early 90's. It could have been a Yamaha or Denon or Sony or whatever... Always a nightmare for the simple accessibility and number of screws: it was not designed to be serviced at any moment. A good tip is the number of test points on the board: if there is none, it's a junk! And if you have a look at the way it is soldered, it's clearly a systemic issue on these poorly designed and manufactured boards. Another classic issue is bad electrolytic caps, that pops or shorts for many reasons, including heat problems and low technical clearance (a 16V caps on a 15V circuit is an economic choice, a 25V gives more life expectancy, and a 63V could also be overachiever, as to ESR lower ratings...) If this 7905 is gone loose, you can suppose the surrounding filtering caps are dead, but many others also, as each IC or part on the -5V circuit can be concerned. A general replacement of these is an economical deadend, and you're not even sure of another defect on these boards or connectors... Hard to guess and troubleshoot even with the proper documentation (again, no test points, keep clear from the bench...!) As you said in the first moments, direct to the recycle bin... Alas, even with far more sophisticated design, it's direct modern replacement won't probably do much better. In consumer electronics, it's no more a quality competition like in the 70's where they built things like tanks. It was generally a good job to service an amp from Sony, Kenwood, Marantz, Sansui and many others brands issued then ( with exceptions however like Yamaha and Luxman?), many were designed for accessibility with tests points, removable back covers, separable modules... and quality components. A good rule of thumb in such maintenance job is to bet for a positive result when you can clearly identify any function of an apparatus within the first minute. And when the apparatus was conceived in that prospect... Of course, it's always possible to get an over sophisticated concept like early "digital tuners", quadraphonic decoders... I've also stumbled upon nightmarish early class D amplifiers, fought for replacement of Soviet germanium components in Thomson French top brand (made in Poland!) and many more. Another trick is to count reference or test points on the board: if there is none, it's been designed not to be fixed or with low life expectancy, so it's generally a waste of time for the technician and the client, and a good candidate for the recycle bin!
You checked the 60 / 50hz sync for timers events for the microcontroller? that can be it to act as dead, but not dead, the software maybe is waiting for the timer event to enable the standby led. If the customer plugged it in 240v when it is 120v, that can be, it is justs resistors and capacitors going from the standby supply power board to the microcontroller board. And also the filament circuitry of the display also received the impact.
Didn't get that far.Limit as to how much they wanted to spend. Bad design, can't test with board out because plugs have to be undone to get board out. It was hit with a power surge, that is all I know.
@@flyguille I don't charge by the hour. Nobody would be able to afford me. I charge by the job. Flat rate plus parts. No fix no charge. There are some things where people bring them in and say 50 limit or 100 limit. I generally know within a few minutes if I will be able to fix in those limits. Some things are worth putting more into than others. When you get something like this, where the owner has a pretty severe limit on it, qnexa it is one that is difficult to service I check the obvious things then wash my hands on it pretty quick.
@@flyguille Kind of tough to do that without extension cables. With the board out connectors are disconnected. Can't power it up with the connectors unplugged. Had it been a proper design with a removable bottom then I would have put more effort into testing but with limit on what I could do I wasn't going to waste any more time on it. Not being paid to estimate it.
In regards to hard-to-service products, my wake-up call came when I first tried to change the oil in my new car. What's wrong with engineers. Why do I have to remove 8 bolts to reach the oil plug? I think manufacturers do that on purpose to make the consumer dependent on their techs.
@@12voltvids My car is a Ford Escape, about 3 years old now. Actually there are nine torx bolts which secure a shroud covering everything underneath the front end of the car. I think the purpose was to improve aerodynamics. A little access hatch would be nice but I guess that wouldn't solve the problem of reaching the oil filter. By the way, everything under the hood is also under some kind of shield. When I first opened the hood, I was shocked not being able to readily find parts like the battery.
@@knottreel I have a 2006 escape hybrid and a 2012 volt (hence the channel name, as my first videos were about the volt and the name stuck) Both of these are fun to work on. Basically dealer only, as they use specialized tools, and both have 360 volts in addition to 12, so you don't want to go poking around in there unless you know exactly what you are doing. Minor stuff like oil changes are not too bad, front half shafts replaced ect at the local wrench, but the more specialized stuff it is dealer hands on only. You think yours is tough, try a BMW on for size. You can't even check the oil on those because they do not have a dip stick.
@@12voltvids Thanks for the background on your handle. I wondered where that came from. The BMW sounds like fun. I probably won't ever afford one. My first car was a 60 Chevy. I loved that car. Everything was accessible, built like a tank, but not the most economical. One good thing was that I could do most of my mechanical repairs on it. Thanks for the heads up on the 360 volts. That would certainly be a surprise that I will avoid.
@@12voltvids -- ha! There must be a bit of an electronics tech in many Volt owners: so far your channel has not only helped me with my decision to buy my 2013 Volt a few years ago, but also with my decision to dive in and repair my old Sony DAT machine. (A little turbine oil on a few of the gear spindles in the loading mechanism, and it's as good as new now.) Came for the Volt; stayed for the volts. Thanks for a great channel!
