On the web there is a photo from Hemmings of a copper color 1970 Lincoln couple. I'm in love. Given the low production numbers you were lucky with all your hard work to find one. Great video on the master cylinder replacement, short and with good tips.
Great video! I love your Lincoln and particularly the 1972 model year. My Dad's boss had a 1972 four door Continental back in 1972 and I remember as a kid that I thought that car was so cool and luxurious. My dad just passed away a few weeks ago, so this brings back so many good memories from the early 70's!
Hi Adam, great video! I really like these repair videos. I imagine it quite tedious to film a repair video. But, whenever have the inkling, please, by all means do so. Carburetor re-builds, brake re-builds, even fuel-filter and coolant refreshes are the kind of repairs that sound "easy", at first glance a "no-brainer". But, there are always little unsuspected issues that can turn any repair into a detective story! Thanks, Adam!
I would advise on purchasing a $15 brake booster measuring tool. If that Rod is just a 1/4 of an inch too long, it will cause the problem you're describing.
What a great video & even better, a gorgeous piece of automotive history....I wish I were there helping out with bleeding process...I could do that all day !!!😁😉😆😂
Definitely good info here! Hopefully it'll help keep a few more of these around and driving for years to come. Gotta say it's sorta depressing seeing the fine Lincoln next to the truck. The truck is a great vehicle but it's just not on the same level as the old Lincoln. It's crazy to think that, for many years, these great old land yachts were just normal vehicles too, largely ignored by most motorists and certainly by the "enthusiasts" who flocked to performance oriented models. Now those same jokers will happily buy one of these from a little old lady and sell it for 40k online. I know it's business and good for them for tapping into an untouched market, but I'm just really glad that at least some of these great old cars have made it into the hands of a real automotive enthusiast, and not just someone who needs a cool car to fuel their ego. I really appreciate your videos but especially your preservation of these vehicles, Adam. I'm so grateful that you're documenting and sharing them with us, and sharing your experience and information to help others fortunate enough to own these vehicles. Happy 4th, I hope you have an excellent time with your family, friends, and your fleet.
Had the same problem on a early 70's Couger. Had to shorten the pushrod a bit and everything was fine. Funny thing it was also with a replacement master cylinder, it was making the front disk's drag. Thanks for posting, always a fun watch.....
I fixed the brake drag problem on a few Ford Tempos, but the cause was different. The metal brackets which tether the flexible hose to the strut or inner fender swell with corrosion build up, and end up squeezing the hose where they curl around it. The fix is simple: Use a large flat-blade screwdriver to spread the bracket where it curls around the hose.
I always loved the profile of the early-'70s full-size Lincoln Coupés; they look really aerodynamic, in a time when automobile aerodynamics was just barely being researched. What I didn't like about them, though, was the unsecured hoods. Starting in '70 they moved the hood release to the outside hidden in the front bumper; that was a huge step backwards for what was once called America's most distinguished motorcar. Not only was there a high risk of damage in a frontal collision, making it a royal pain to open the hood; but it also made it easy for thieves and vandals to raid the engine bay of a parked car, sugar a carburetor, steal a battery, cut ignition cables, etc. ...and that was a very popular thing amongst criminal elements in the early-'70s. Finally they got smart and reinstalled an inside hood release once they were forced into the Ralph-Nader-bumper period. Anyway, about the brakes, there is a way to determine if the pushrod is adjusted exactly right. After getting it out, cleaning it, and turning the adjustment screw outward, seat it back in the booster, then test-fit the M/C. If it will not fully seat against the booster without resistance from the pushrod, or at all, then you know the rod is too long. Back it back in with 1/4-turn intervals until the M/C will seat fully onto the booster with no resistance. Being that the OP had grabbing issues, it would be prudent for him to check the calipers for proper sliding action, and the rotors for proper (or improper) wear. If anything is suspect, get them checked. If anything fails the check, get replacements. I know that rotors and hubs on these cars are staked together by the lug studs as one piece, but they can be separated and reunited with proper machine-shop equipment. Naturally, that means removing the hub-rotor units and taking them and the new rotors to a machine shop for that surgery, putting the car on stands. But I doubt this Coupé is the OP's sole means of motorized conveyance, so having the car disabled and resting on jack stands for several days will not really phase him or compromise him in any way.
Good luck on the repair and I hope you got it, but....I went through this exact issue on a low mileage 1970 4dr., and replaced a lot of parts before finally getting a correct diagnosis, which was the power brake booster.
Great repair vid Adam. Have you ever considered using a brake booster pin depth tool? I got one recently, and it totally took the guesswork out of setting the pin depth. Master Power Brakes has a nice writeup and videos of their tool on their website.
I always paint my Master cylinder bodies with eastwood brake grey paint before installation.. Resists brake fluid and keeps the uncoated steel body from rusting which it will immediately. Looks like new for many years.
Nos carros americanos o reservatório do cilindro mestre é fundido junto com o cilindro, aqui no Brasil o reservatório normalmente é de plástico, mesmo em veículos.mais antigos. Muito bom o vídeo, obrigado por compartilhar.
That is one awesomely beautiful 1972 coupe! I know it's been over a year since you posted this video, but do you remember what brake fluid you used, DOT 3 or 4?
How do you like your new Silverado? I have a 2018 Sierra with the 8 speed and 6.2. It's been problem free including the trans. Once in a blue moon it will do something funny in the shifting, but otherwise it's fine.
Always good to have something underneath the MC to catch the brake fluid drips. Otherwise, the spilled fluid could eat the original paint on the engine or whatever else it drips on.
Oh Adam, you got it all wrong! You replaced the left handed cylinder with a right handed one! You can tell by the bail wire that holds the cap on. Of course you could just take the bail wire off and put it back on the other way and no one would know!
Make sure the automatic climate control and power windows work. Also check for rust around the rear window and in the frame torque boxes along w the sheet metal.
Bench bleeding gets the bulk of the air out of the master cylinder w/o getting fluid all over the car. It isn't *required * per se, but it makes the post- installation bleeding process much faster and less messy.
you didn't show how you bled the system working by yourself...that can be one of the tough parts of the entire repair...enough to put some people off to not want to try it...
Since it has a power seat, I just put a rod on the seat and move it forward until the pedal is at the floor. Then close off the system, move the seat back and repeat
- it came down mainly to cost reasons. The few cars in those days that had 4 wheel discs were performance types (Corvette, Shelby Cobra) and European imports such as Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Jaguar, Porsche, Mercedes-Benz, etc. 4 wheel discs did not become common on the vast majority of 'mainstream' American cars till the mid-late 90's, in large part via the adoption of ABS brakes as standard equipment at the same time.
Ah, it looks like my theory on the booster sucking brake fluid through itself and into the engine is a bust, which is good. It looked dry inside the booster where the push-rod lives. Although I've got to say that I've never encountered that much gunk in a master cylinder like that. Surely a result of sitting unused. If it does turn out to be the booster, and it bites you out on the road in traffic, open the hood and pull, and of course plug, the vacuum hose to the booster, and that should get you moving again, albeit with brakes which would make Superman's right foot sore... I once pulled a '67 Mustang convertible into a service bay, and if you so much as touched the brake pedal with your foot, the car would jerk to a halt.
