Mastering Soldering Iron Temperature: Tips & Techniques 

With over 50 years of experience soldering, I found your advice very sound. I particularly agree with the fact that soldering is a bit of an art. Buying some cheap kits and putting them together for practice is a good way to learn. Then try working on that $1,000 transceiver, when you feel confident Two items I would add. 1) The solder is hot enough when it turns shiny. 2) Learn to minimize the amount of solder needed to make a strong joint. Globs of solder are not good. Also get a good de-soldering gun, solder suckers work but get a bit tedious when having to replace multiple parts, such as recapping an old piece of equipment.. That should be a good topic for a follow up video.

I'm one of those who love HF tips (Thermaltronics TMT-5000S system) Beneficial is that it throw much more power in short time. Therefore even smaller tips don't need so much mass. (I have experience with JBC, Weller WX system and some Chinese stuff as well) Changing the tips is really necessary only in case of massive thermal mass like big ground planes or power components. And for those I have only one tip. The rest is for low temp only different style depends on type of components. Most used is 3mm chisel after that conical and last sharp tip. What I'm missing in Thermaltronics offer is microwave (chisel tip with small hollow in the center)

Thanks for followup about soldering. I am learning especially in regards to understanding what is a reasonable amount of time expected to heat a joint without damage. Now to master the real art of soldering because we need three hands! Big Clive with his big hands, nonetheles demonstrates real dexterity in soldering.

Good soldering stations, both Hakko and Weller (have both), that will keep up the heat transfer can surprisingly attach a PL-259 or N silver connector to the end of a 100' of LMR400 cable...surprised me the first time I was able to do that. 73 - Dino KLØS

Nice I have a PACE PRC2000 also known as a Model PPS400 and those Pencil Soldering Irons PS 80/90's etc give out all the time, and they start at like $135.00 each without a tip. Of course in a production or repair center, these tips can go through as many as 20 cycles in a day all week long, and sometimes are on almost 7-8 hours a day for days in a row until the weekend comes. However I just might have to figure what Hakko is doing and adapt them into the PACE Station. One thing I do like about the PACE station Irons is the tips are changeable on the irons without having to unscrew the iron or change it out all together. I also like the Temperature Setback Mode, basically it's an idle mode where you can ask it to keep the tip warm but not hot, like if you go to lunch or the restroom. After you take it off Setback Mode it warms right back up fast. When I went to school for soldering, the basic rule for us was to choose a tip and wattage large enough that you could get a full wet and be on and off the joint in 3 seconds or less. Large ground planes obviously require a larger mass tip and the SMT's with leads attached used the smallest tips. Again the basic idea was the smaller the lead or area, the smaller the tip to keep the iron from transferring to much heat to the board. A really good primer on the video bud. I loved that you talked about the humidity and iron components, I never knew that one. Thanks for sharing, love the channel, you are way under subscribed to that's for sure. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Great Video! Soldering IS an art, I think. I certainly know people that are soldering for decades and still BLOB it on..... Cough*** 12volt vids ****cough.... 😉 And of course we should really talk about the importance of FLUX!! I have been soldering since about 10 or so. My first, and I still have it.. is a Weller gun. Today I cannot imagine using that thing on anything any longer. I have gone from it, to Pace, to Weller, to Hakko, to Metcal. Aaandddd..... stayed with Metcal. The Hakko for me is a close second, and I'd recommend them to anyone. Absolute safe bet. Same for the DE-soldering gun, and absolute MUST if you do a lot of work. But to me, the Metcal is IT. It can push so much power when needed, I just never needed anything else from surface mount to soldering a stud to a metal chassis. BUT.... they are expensive. I got mine used, of course. BTW, try a HOOF tip! Best of both worlds and much nicer for drag soldering. ( And DAMN!! Those old Tek Scopes are works of art! ) 😍