@@calvinpettet8007 I definitely agree with you on that luckily the shop I work at provides specialty tool of that nature and also the diagnostic computer
So while he's the only one on the truck that single that means also that Wally is the only one that smart..congratulations Wally on getting the genius award everybody else is made the damn mistake and get the hitched.. Lol
I know how difficult it is, when a new tech gets on a tool truck, for them to not max out their credit buying all the neat shiny stuff. I hate to see new guys with a $5K toolbox that’s empty. Michael did a good job naming a list of basic tools to get started. He snuck in a magnet right at the end, which I planned to mention. Your new techs are invariably going to be doing a lot of oil changes and tire work so I’ll recommend a good set of flip sockets and some oil filter wrenches. I think Matco sells the best Toyota oil filter cup. I’ve never had a problem with mine but I’ve broken several other brands. Overall, a good starter list!
Pauly D I started out with just a top chest made by Craftsman . I quickly filled it with the basics and made the mistake of falling for a shiny new Mac 1500 Series top and bottom. I was struggling with being a young married man and two hungry kids and rent. There were weeks that my tool bill was almost as much as my paycheck. ( This was 30 years ago). In hindsight I should’ve kept the little top chest and added a cheap bottom box so I could continue to add the basics without being in debt. The tool box I have now is a big Matco unit made way back in the late 90s. If you saw it you’d think it was only a year or two old because I’ve taken care of it. I’ve own all of the big three tool companies boxes and the top line Matco has been the best I’ve ever had. I don’t know if they still build them like they used to but mine had never ever needed anything and it’s loaded to the max.
Wayne, I too began my career with a Craftsman top chest. My dad gave it to me for my 13th birthday. It’s in my garage at home. I still have every tool box I’ve ever owned, I just keep adding on and filling them up.
I love the air talk. Everyone seems to talk about air tools as an ancient artifact. Air has no down time unless the compressor is down. No charge time. No need to buy extra batteries. Batteries are expensive and eventually die.
PDX LockPicker yeah but I can’t go out to the truck parked out back that doesn’t run to pull a part off with an air tool unless I wanna fire up and drive out the service truck and fire up the loud air compressor when I can zip them out in a few minutes with my cordless
@@phenomiclord261 They each have their place still, in my mind. I have both air and cordless tools. I use the air inside the shop fairly often, when I feel like phaffing with the hose. When I dont, or when the job is outside the shop or at another location entirely, cordless to the rescue. I got me plenty of batteries for my M18 and M12 tools, cuz I stick to the one brand, and its the red one, sorrynotsorry lol, so I have hardly ever had an instance where I need to wait on a battery to recharge. There are also some of those times when you need the air tool still, for that instantaneous rip of torque that cordless just doesn't muster. It spins up to max speed at a much gentler rate, by comparison. Sometimes, you don't want that, you want it to RIP THE BAJESUS OFF THE FACKER with no pre-game :)
The only thing I disagree with is the wrenches. I would say get the regular ones. I hardly ever use my ratchet wrenches because the head does not fit in a lot of places. But as you say, to each his own. I think Michael did a great job putting that list together.
Michael is completely right in his advice. I went expensive ony ratchets and have snap on, Cornwell and Matco. My Matco 1/2 flex head has been a God send. Impacts are the way to go in the beginning for as much as possible.
WOW Clay, you and Matco Michael just got a 100 pounds of content in a 29 minute bag ! Great video and no, I'm not pissed by anything you guys offered up. Nice work!
Rear rocker box cover on a Harley Twin Cam. Trapped a 7/16 non reversible ratcheting wrench against the frame backbone. That is a helpless feeling. Yup, get the reversible ones from the get go.
auto body tech for life I hate to say it but you can’t beat Harbor Freight’s roll carts for what they cost. No, they aren’t as heavy duty as a $2000 tool truck unit but they will get the job done for less than $200.
This is one of the best starter vids I’ve seen. That’s awesome that Michael is using his experience to educate new techs and get them spending smart instead of racking up a lot of debt on things they won’t hardly use or won’t need right away. That’s long term thinking on his part. The best kind of customer is a customer for life. My thoughts: Definitely start flex head ratchet because you’re going to get it anyway as soon as you try one. Matco locking flex can’t beat its locking design for 1/4 and 3/8. Also has a nice thin profile head. Yep, impacts way to go starting out. I started with chrome and have since moved to impacts. Chrome still needed on occasion for tight spaces. Also impacts are a lot less expensive. Good point on the ratchet wrenches too. I started out with the non-reversible thinking I’d save $$ and it didn’t take long to get the reversible. The only thing about starting with just ratcheting wrenches is you’ll probably end up breaking them because you won’t want to abuse the courtesy of your co-workers. They are needed not just for breaking loose some fasteners, but also for holding the nut when impacting on a fastener. I’d bite the bullet on quality combos and get an affordable set of reversible Gearwrenches or the like. The only ratcheting wrenches I’ve used that can almost take the place of regular wrenches are the new style Snap Ons with the dual 80 rebuildable head. They are longer than the regular combos and have the FD+ open end for breaking loose seized fasteners. But they are so expensive, you could probably get 10-19 Snap On combos and reversible gearwrenches for about the same cost. Or go Carlyle / Milwaukee combos and see how far they take you. Agree with Clay on dead blow. I’d start with a good ball peen and get a cheap soft face. Upgrade the soft face eventually. A mini sledge can be useful too if you’re in the rust belt. One more I’d add is a good long, strong magnetic pick up tool. And an inspection mirror is cheap and somewhat handy. I’d personally go quality wobble plus extensions right off the bat. So versatile. Some people don’t like the wobble plus and insist on having two sets, but I love them. I say quality because the cheaper ones will probably break often enough you’ll upgrade anyway. A last comment not touched on the vid is to find out from co-workers and online research what sizes of metric and sae you are going to need for your specific line of work. For example, if it’s 90% metric, a master set may be the way to go with some individual sae sizes as needed.
@@KoonTrucking Another thing that's almost as important if not more important then knowing what tools to buy, is knowing what tools not to buy because I guarantee you those piece of crap Snapon Vise Grips and that damn polisher would be on that list.
Cost and durability air is way to go to start with for impacts. I agree buy master kit from start or you'll end up buying anyways and cost more in end. I think I'd get a second cart before investing in a big box. A good tool guy would give you pocket screwdriver if you bought all those tools
Very cool list! What young techs also dont understand is, if the Snap On tool is too expensive, get the Blue Point version. If the Matco tool is too expensive, get the Silver Eagle version. Those are good tools and will last you very long untill you can afford the better version. Amd most of the time, those cheaper version also carry a life time warranty. I have both Snap On and Blue Point tools. I have still not broken a Blue Point tool. Worn it out yes, but havent broken it.
i really like the comfort grip sk screw drivers(also the old craftsman professional screw drivers they were made by sk). the bigger ones have nut right at the handle so you can put a wrench on it.
And a 20$ obd2 scan tool from walmart to do check engine lights after spark plugs o2 sensors. I'm an air guy except with an electric ratchet because air ratchets get annoying and load real fast real quick. Electric ratchet is a must and air tool woth everything else but a drill for drilling our lug studs a d damaged lug nuts
j 831 Our guy’s truck is so packed that you cannot get down the isle of the truck. He’s doing well because there is no Mac dealer and the Snapon women is unreliable. Unless you owe Snapon you’re not going to see the Snapon women. I hold corporate Snapon responsible for that.
Awesome video. I myself am starting as an Apprentice Diesel Technician and this gives me a great start off point. Thank you for the awesome information.
I started off with hobofreight spent$200 on tools and a $150 cart when something would break I would buy it off the truck. Then upgraded to the $400 box had that for years. I now have about 20k in tools and JUST bought a Snap on box. The box doesn't really make you money but it does save you time if you're organized you spend less time looking for stuff.
We have a great Matco guy here. He turned wrenches for a long time before becoming a Matco man. Can’t find the Snapon woman with the FBI though. She must getting her nails done... Anyway, I still have Matco impact sockets that I purchased 25yrs ago. I don’t know if Matco still makes them anymore. I think they’re selling offshore sockets now.
Dear Matco Michael. I totally relate to your story, Because Just like you, I too had to learn the hard way about cheap tools when I started. (not that all cheap tools are bad, but most are. Some of the Channel Lock, Crescent, OTC and Irwin tools are good stuff) but for the most part, you get what you pay for. (except with power tools, but there is a totally different dynamic comes into play with power tools . . but that's another topic for another day)
@@phenomiclord261 SSsshhhh, you're not supposed to tell them that :P Though it's no secret, Matco only makes their toolboxes, everything else is contracted out/rebranded. But I don't think they offer any products with the Matco logo that are of low quality, that I know of. Some things need refinement, but they aren't shoddy. I'm in the process of getting into a Matco franchise, which might say a little of the trust I place in their offerings, rebranded or not.
I got by for almost 25 years with a regular interchangeable impact swivel. Just recently upgraded to individual impact socket sets. I wouldn’t go back that is for sure. But you are right about being able to get by with the interchangeable ones.
You guys forgot footwear boots 🥾 or nonslip work shoes that’s the best and what a beginner needs to know, I know when I first started I was slipping across the shop and almost kissin the floor ever 5 minutes
Dustin Gordon You can still buy USA made impact sockets from Wright Tool for about the same cost as the offshore sockets. Wright makes some very tough impact sockets.
I worked in this one shop and they never wanted the younger guys to use hand tools... they wanted use to use air and electric tools only for 90% of the jobs we did. And I’m talking big jobs not just a couple small things. If our boss saw us using a screwdriver on anything we would get yelled at. I know all of this sounds crazy but it’s 100% true. I worked there for 2 1/2 months before I walked. Wish I could find a shop like yours clay.
I was working on my Polaris Sportsman 400 back when the original Gearwrench non-reversables came out and got stuck. I was taking the little square spring that connects the speedometer to the transmission and ran that wrench and bolt into the frame. A five-minute job turned into three hours real quick, lesson learned.
You saying 'good basic PICKS' reminds me of those awesome flat radiator hose picks. I like those personally but just a standard pick set in general is a great add
The reason a lot of shops don’t want you always using the batteries over the Air is because those battery’s have to be replaced every 1-2 years where as that compressor is every 10 years as long as you maintain it. That’s exactly what the manufacturers want is a part that needs to be replaced every 1-2 years. I’m all for electric but if air is available, in my opinion air the is the way to go
When I first saw the Cobra/Alligator, thought the price was a little high. Now, having used them for years I think their price is very reasonable. Fantastic pliers!
I would be lost without my 3/8 cordless impact. I use it everyday all day. I’ve worn out 5 of them. Milwaukee warranty is the best in the business. The only air I use now is my 3/4. Even that is obsolete with Milwaukee now. Air to me is the last resort and I’m a diesel tech.
I went to a class on CAN systems once at a tech expo,the instructor of the class runs a mobile car computer repair service.He replaced a computer because some know it all used a power probe on a circuit called wrong circuit tested with a power probe.Borrowing tools,there will be a problem when someone doesn't confess to breaking the tools and not returning them the condition they received it as.Air impacts,Ingersol Rand is the way to go.Every IR impact I owned,could not kill them and they still work to this day.Plus you can rebuild them yourself and the only thing I replaced on them is the anvil.Still have my first hammer,a Pro Grade I bought from Tractor Supply.Have not broken it yet although it is over 10 years old.
I really like this video so much good information that a lot people can get something out of. I don't care what trade your in if you have to borrow that means you have to buy it. I'll help anybody I can but borrowing the same thing(s) over and over again turns you into a pain in someone's ass. With the amount tool options we have these day's a little research can go a long way getting what you need and some of what you want. That's why we have two ears and one mouth. If you have a tool man like Michael he can help point you in the right direction.
One thing I want to add to the whole tool borrowing deal, If you break a borrowed tool you have to replace it and your still in the same boat as before but now the all mighty wallet is a little on the lite side. In the end it will be like you had to purchase the same thing twice!
At my job its battery tools for everything except air grinders for gasket removal we have to go to equipment that has no access to air & getting air to it is near impossible in some cases
Rant... TORQUE wrench... an impact is not for final tightening, especially on wheels that a customer may have to remove on the roadside. I am not a tech, but I do a lot of my own work; I watch techs working on cars and they will often tighten the lugs with the impact or tighten with the impact and then put the torque wrench on to verify that they are tight enough, but they are often overtightened. I have an F150 which calls for 150 ft pounds on the lugs- I always loosen and retorque the lugs after having my truck serviced because I consistently find the lugs way over torqued. One time, I had a 30” breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe and could not break the lugs loose after dealer service- the socket lost in that case- get a torque wrench and use it- be the guy that makes your customers happy
I started off with a 4 drawer matco HD flip top roll cart with the open bottom when I got back in the game with all the basic hand tools that Michael picked out in this video. As time went on getting more experience and knowledge in this trade I needed a cart with more drawers then a stationary box for tools that weren't used every day. This video is a must watch for every new tech starting out from automotive to fleet maintainence.
Great video and Matco part# psj6b have become my everyday carry pliers for the last couple months , I prefer the Matco slip joints over Snap on , keep up the great work guys!!
Also go with affordable things with your money, You won’t start anywhere if you’re buying expensive things You kinda have to do your research, With pneumatic tools and power tools, Those you might wanna spend some more money on
Bbque79 I’ve only seen a very few times an impact wouldn’t work work a chrome socket was needed. Me, Wally and Bill pretty much use impact sockets on everything other than spark plugs or IPR, 99% of the time we all use impact sockets on ratchets.
Newbie here but I highly recommend a small impact driver with an assortment of philips, square, and torx bits as well as a 1/4 hex to 1/4" square drive converter to throw on a random 8/10/12 mm socket. Thing is an absolute god send for skid plates and air box covers and brackets for batteries. Every other tire tech watched me zip those off with ease and constantly borrow it. Other than that, a good set of oil filter pliers. Oh and those low profile oil filter sockets for canister style filters. The tool trucks that come by me tend to either have the lisle one or a rebranded lisle one (the 5 or 7 piece set). Oh and magnetic trays.
It’s doubtful a guy just starting out will be doing anything electrical. Remember this is for someone just getting started. A test light is sufficient until they get further into it
I deal with a lot of break off bolts .they will teach you how to cuss !after getting knipex cobra sets life is a lot easier ! Can't forget the vampliers. Good video.
Ron Bowman company I work for our policy is to torque everything with a torque wrench and mark it because it’s sickening how many failure analysis where the root cause of failure is improperly torques fasteners
Ron Bowman Torque sticks are not always accurate. At my job we had wheels on a trailer torqued with a torque stick on a 3/4 gun. Next day wheels came off the trailer.
I can’t believe there’s techs that don’t use a torque wrench. Those aren’t techs they’re hacks use the assisted tools to speed up the process and finish to spec
In collision I would go electric for the impact was a lot of times when I just started out cars come in with popped tires and dropped off in the parking lot away from air. Can’t tell you how many cars I put the spare tire on with the tire iron.
Good all around advice for beginners totally agree. Especially most new guys aren’t going to be doing jobs that require the more specialty tools right off the bat. Beginners stick to the basics
Hate to be that guy but I suggest Technicians get Wera or Wiha screwdrivers much much cheaper and excellent quality with lifetime warranty everything else on this list is golden
I haven’t ever used them. If I was to pick one I liked the ones Michael showed a few weeks ago or maybe last week ? The slip like a torque wrench does. I don’t know about torque sticks since it is dependent on running a 90 psi air pressure. I think there would be more variation there.
Scott Mills I worked on nothing but Toyotas for years and back then a roll cart with 10,12,14,17,19mm stuff , pliers, and feeler gauges were all you needed 90% of the time. I rarely had to go to my box for anything else. Now that I wrench on domestic stuff too I’ve pretty much packed my 6S to the max and still need more room. I just don’t want to spend the money at my age though.
Ive been using some of the ryobi electric tools, and the electric ratchet is a bit bulky but does work well. The same with the 1/4 impact. I have a trucking company with a in house shop.
There is a lot more u could use then what I said but starting out you’ll Borrow stuff if you borrow it 3 times write it down and really consider pros and cons of buying said tool.
The Matco pro non-slip impact sockets are the best sockets on the truck in my opinion. when chrome or regular impact sockets round off bolt heads, these will bite and remove the rounded off fastener. I use them daily instead of chrome or regular impact sockets.
I wish I could barrow the orange handle ratchet 3/8 drive I’ve seen so many videos how good it is yeah I have lots of snap on ratchets but would love to try matco I help out so many people with their cars to help brakes struts every thing in between
The issue I've seen is guys being impatient or careless. They think its so much faster using electric impacts and proceed to quickly destroy sensitive parts. Hose clamps, sensor retention bolts, dash and door panels/brackets. Don't get me wrong, I use electric regularly and it's a wonderful thing to have. It comes down to common sense isn't as common as it should be.
14:15 litteraly did that yeasterday thought i was tighting a rear top strut bolt and I look up because it was in the trunk and the hole bolt is gone had to start over lol
Interesting...as a "past" Snap On dealer we were not allowed to have anything on the truck nor sell anything non Snap On related. Only Snap On or Blue Point tools.
if you are going to be a lube tech in the big trucks 1/2 drive is a must hands down my first job i worked there was a tech that took me under his arm and his thinking was if you asked to barrow something 2 times or more between tool truck visits being the same one it is high time to buy that said tool
I’m confused why they wouldn’t let you use cordless lol assisted tools speed up the process and then you torque to spec with a good quality torque wrench. New techs get torque sticks so they never over torque lug nuts, partly cause I’m tired of replacing broken studs. Adjustable torque settings for removal and install. The torque comparison is unbelievable. I bust semi tires all day and for anything except buds my brushless snap on 1/2” is my go to. The cordless has enough torque to do bud nuts but the gun gets hot the socket can’t be handled for an hour lol. The 1” air is just faster and I don’t need to beat up my cordless. Buds are the only thing the 1” comes out for. The brushless snap on honestly is to strong for its own good. It will break lug nuts in half on cars if they are stuck it’ll snap studs off, not often do you come across vehicles that bad that it happens. My matco 3/8” cordless is damn good automotive tire buster. The only air tools I own anymore are diegrinders cause cordless ones blow, a 1/4” air ratchet for them tight places, a 1” obviously and a blow gun lol.
